2020年4月15日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A pajama designer’s easy but unexpected egg dish — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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A Houseplant That Brings Flowers, Then Fruit

Sofía Probert

Until last month, I had been a proud but distant observer of the small citrus tree in my apartment. The three-foot-tall semi-dwarf calamondin — a plant native to the Philippines that produces sour, compact orange fruit thought to be a hybrid of a kumquat and a mandarin — has always thrived despite, rather than because of, my attempts at care. But on my first day of working from home, the small white buds that had spread slowly along its wispy green branches throughout February suddenly burst into constellations of white, star-shaped flowers — and its success became the focus of my newly confined existence. In return for more regular waterings, it has filled my apartment with the sweet, subtle, powdery scent of orange blossom for a month. And last week, when its petals finally began to fall, they left behind small green orbs that will soon become new fruit, making it not only the perfect houseplant — colorful, fragrant and forgivingly resilient — but an ideal houseguest. From $29, fourwindsgrowers.com

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Our 2020 Culture Issue

Two of the four covers of T’s April 19 Culture issue. Left, Butches and Studs, clockwise from top left: Tiona Nekkia McClodden, Casey Legler, Kimberly Peirce, Roberta Colindrez, Alison Bechdel, Collier Schorr, Nicole Eisenman, Eileen Myles, Mickalene Thomas, Jenny Shimizu, Nicole Eisenman, Lea DeLaria, Meshell Ndegeocello, Eileen Myles and Roxane Gay. Right, Black Leading Ladies, clockwise from top left: Mary J. Blige, Viola Davis, Angela Bassett, Halle Berry and Taraji P. Henson.Left: Photos by Collier Schorr. Styled by Brian Molloy. Produced by Casey Legler. Right: Photos by Mickalene Thomas and Racquel Chevremont. Styled by Shiona Turini

In our 2020 Culture issue, out April 19, T celebrates various groups of creative people who, whether united by outlook or identity, happenstance or choice, built communities that have shaped the larger cultural landscape — including the now renowned black artists who showed at one or all of three black-owned galleries in the ’70s and ’80s, the butches and studs whose identity is both its own aesthetic and a repudiation of the male gaze, and the foreign correspondents explaining America to the world. Here, an excerpt from the editor’s letter by Hanya Yanagihara: Every magazine is by its nature retrospective, a time capsule from the near past. A magazine such as this takes months to photograph, write, edit and research, and a few weeks to print; this means that the things that were true at its conception are sometimes no longer so when it’s published. Yet while the world around us has changed in ways that were — just a few weeks ago — once reserved for the realm of fiction, the spirit and thesis of this issue has not. One of the things that has defined our age has been the rise and dominance of what we can colloquially call tribes, groups of people bound not by blood or genetics or law, but by something more profound and just as durable — call it an affinity, if you will. Sometimes that affinity has its roots in race, or gender, or sexuality, but it’s just as often based in something not innate, but developed: taste, say, or sensibility, or experience, or history. These are assemblages of people not born unto one another, but who find one another, and as a result, their bond is more charged, more powerful, more intimate. To see the issue come alive, head to tmagazine.com.

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Eat This

A Pajama Designer’s Easy but Unexpected Egg Dish

The ingredients for Molly Goddard’s favorite breakfast dish include sheep’s milk feta, eggs, Parma ham and pumpkin.Yuki Sugiura
Author Headshot

By Isabel Wilkinson

T Contributing Editor

Molly Goddard and Joel Jeffery met in 2011, when she was 19 and he was 23, while skiing in Canada; when she returned to Brisbane, Australia, and he to London, they started a long-distance romance. On Sundays, they would Skype. Because of the time difference, “one of us would always be in pajamas,” Jeffery says. Thus, the seed was planted for their now five-year-old brand, Desmond & Dempsey, which sells women’s, men’s and children’s cotton pajamas that are joyfully splashed with brightly colored, vaguely nostalgic prints and retail for $180 a set. The two, who married in 2016, now often eat breakfast together at their Brixton apartment before walking to work. Goddard usually oversees the cooking, favoring a recipe she inherited from her mother, which she has lovingly called “spiffy eggs.” She makes it regularly on Sunday mornings, and would occasionally make it at the Desmond & Dempsey offices for lunch with their 10-person team. Not long after starting the company, “when we didn’t know what the rules were,” Goddard says, the couple invited an interested buyer from the department store Fortnum & Mason to their apartment and served her Goddard’s special eggs. It was an unconventional approach, but it worked — the buyer picked up the brand. For Goddard, the baked egg dish — which includes pumpkin, Parma ham and crumbled feta — is appealing not only because it is delicious and filling but also because it’s made in a single pot and easy to clean up. For the recipe, visit tmagazine.com.

Try This

The Softest Technicolor Throw Blankets

From left, throws by Alicia Adams Alpaca, Mantas Ezcaray, Loewe and Missoni Home.Loewe image courtesy of MATCHESFASHION; all others courtesy of the brands.

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Like many of you, I’ve been spending a lot more time on my couch, a dark gray chenille-tweed settee that was my first big furniture purchase. This fact, along with increased scrolling through design-minded Instagram accounts, has left me wanting a cozy, colorful throw to can get me through spring’s brisker days and refresh my living room. The Hudson Valley-based brand Alicia Adams Alpaca, which makes ready-to-wear and home goods using wool from its own Alpaca farm, just released a super-soft rainbow-hued throw to celebrate its 10 years in business; 10 percent of the proceeds from each sale will be donated to Glsen, a nonprofit organization that supports the L.G.B.T.Q. community. The Spanish fashion house Loewe offers a vibrantly striped blanket in fuzzy mohair that’s also available in solid colors, like this bright pink; one could also turn to Missoni, whose home collection includes an array of throws in the Italian fashion house’s familiar chevron motif, like this lightweight polyester version, which is perfect for warmer temperatures. And for a more affordable option, check out Mantas Ezcaray, a small, family-owned business that offers a range of textiles made from luscious mohair in La Rioja, Spain; or these cotton blankets from the lifestyle brand VISO that feature abstract, arty shapes.

Know About This

Sculptural Candles from an L.A. Artist Couple

Courtesy of Crying Clover Candles

By Monica Khemsurov

T Contributing Editor

Last fall, Sara Gernsbacher and Patrick Walsh accidentally started a candle company: The Los Angeles-based artist couple — both are painters and sculptors — had been experimenting with folding colorful oil-pastel paintings into rectangular molds, pouring in wax from melted-down thrift-store candles, sticking in wicks and giving the results away to friends. “I liked the idea of making sculpture for everyone and stepping outside the commerce of the gallery system,” Gernsbacher told me. Then, thanks to Instagram (which is where I spotted their creations), the pair started getting proper sales requests from stores like the women’s wear boutique Scout in Los Angeles and the cafe-slash-design-shop Relationships in Brooklyn; thus, Crying Clover Candles was born. Named for a dream Walsh had that featured a tattoo of a sad four-leaf clover, the project has continued to gain momentum, and made an appearance at last month’s Object & Thing show in New York, which is part of the Independent Art Fair. The allure is no doubt thanks to the candles’ eye-catching patterns — imperfect checkerboards that Gernsbacher likens to skyscraper windows — and only heightened now that most of us are stuck inside and in need of calming energy. From $36, cryingclovercandles.org

From T’s Instagram

Eating In

François Halard

#TEyeCandy: The kitchen, of course, is an inherently practical space, one where inefficiencies in design are more easily felt than in perhaps any other room of a home. But that only makes those kitchens that are both kind to their users and lovely to look at all the more special. We rounded up 10 examples, from a Swiss room covered in 19th-century Neapolitan tiles to a bright yellow pantry in Lake Como designed by the director Luca Guadagnino, where it might be nice to pass some time — and cook. Follow us on Instagram.

A photo caption in last week’s T List misidentified the season of the Judy Turner clothing shown. The pieces were from the fall 2020 collection, not spring 2020.

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On Tech: Apple’s new phone doesn’t matter

New smartphones have become like refrigerators. They're just not that exciting.

Apple’s new phone doesn’t matter

Bryan Derballa for The New York Times

Join us for a live conversation about tech and the coronavirus. Today at 4 p.m. Eastern time, my Times Opinion colleague Charlie Warzel and I are hosting a conference call to talk about the use of smartphone location data to fight the coronavirus and other aspects of using technology in this pandemic. Lend us your ears, and ask your burning questions. You can RSVP here.

This sure feels like a strange time for Apple to release a new iPhone. But here’s a hard truth: Our habits show that new phones are irrelevant to most of us — in a pandemic or otherwise.

Brian X. Chen, a New York Times personal technology writer, wrote about Apple’s plan to release a new version of the iPhone SE next week. That’s the four-year-old model with a relatively small screen and a relatively low price of $399 and up in the United States.

This iPhone model hasn’t been a blockbuster, but it’s a nice option for some people. Apple and other companies are likely to keep releasing more fresh smartphone models this year, perhaps with some pandemic-related delays.

Conditions aren’t ideal for selling stuff. American consumer spending in March fell at the fastest rate in the nearly three decades the government has tracked the data. Many stores around the world, including Apple’s and other cellphone retailers’, are closed. Millions of newly unemployed people don’t have spare money, and Americans are shifting what they are buying. Groceries and streaming video, yes. Electronics, no.

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Apple probably had this latest model ready to go before the pandemic hit — and sure, why not give it a go? The honest truth is, it’s impossible to predict if and when our buying habits will return to normal.

New smartphones have been a tough sell for some time. People in the United States and many other countries are waiting longer to replace their phones — for Americans, it’s more than three years on average.

Pick your favorite explanation for this phenomenon. Many people don’t want to pay the going rate of $1,000 or more for phones with all the bells and whistles. To some people, even the features that are supposed to be exciting feel blah.

The best explanation for the smartphone sales malaise is a simple one: This is what happens when products go from new and novel to normal.

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Products get more reliable and resilient as they become mass market, and new models don’t feel so different from the old. Apart from the die-hards, most people lose interest in the latest and greatest. The hot new thing feels…fine.

In Brian’s assessment of last fall’s iPhone models, he said there was no rush to buy a new phone if your current one is less than a few years old. (Yes, a professional tech reviewer suggested you might NOT need to buy something.)

The shift from wow to shrug happened with cars, personal computers and televisions. More than a decade after modern smartphones hit the market, we’ve lost our zing for those pocket computers, too. Until economic conditions stabilize, our zing will probably be even less zingy than normal.

A smartphone is now a refrigerator. We need it, but we don’t replace our current model when a new ice-making feature comes out. This is not great for companies with shiny new phones to sell. For the rest of us, it’s fine.

When old tech really is a problem

A three-year-old smartphone is great. Broken government technology that’s failing struggling people is not.

My colleagues have written about the Small Business Administration’s online application system melting down with loan requests from businesses applying for help. A Lyft driver in New York was told to fax his pay stubs to the unemployment office. There are unprecedented demands right now. But, wow, this is a bad look for government technology when it’s needed most.

The problem isn’t necessarily the age of the technology used by government organizations. It’s the upkeep.

The hidden secret of the internet is that behind the scenes, there are Sputnik-era computers doing chores like handling your credit card payment on Amazon and filling your online travel reservations. That 60-year-old computer programming language that New Jersey’s governor talked about? It works, as long as there are people to keep it up-to-date.

The problem with many government and even corporate technology is the lack of money and care for upkeep. Chris O’Malley, the chief executive of Compuware, which works on old tech, told me there’s a mentality that tech systems are something you set up once and they’re done. Nope. If it ain’t broke, it still needs fixing.

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Before we go …

  • When “less bad” is good. Businesses are cutting back on advertisements. Others are nervous about their ads appearing in a Facebook feed next to grim news. That dynamic is likely to hurt Google and Facebook, which make most of their money from selling ads, my Times colleagues write. Still, the tech titans will probably hold up better than other companies reliant on advertising.
  • We need baby ducks right now: In our doom times, people are gravitating to news websites and social media accounts featuring happy tales like a police officer guiding ducklings, the Times reporter Taylor Lorenz writes. (A shameless plug to stick around for the end of this newsletter.)
  • Another idea to bridge America’s digital divide: Thomas L. Friedman, the Times Opinion columnist, talks up a proposal for federal loans and regulatory changes to help rural communities and cooperatives build fast internet networks. Expanding online access would encourage more inventions like the robotic poultry coop cleaners he found in Minnesota. Yesterday, I wrote about another plan to make fast internet available to more people.
  • Stick to the basics. Brian, in another article, said the pandemic has made it clear what technology is essential in our personal lives, and what is neat but frivolous.

Hugs to this

Pete Wells, a restaurant critic for The Times, writes a lovely appreciation of this six-hour video of sheep at a California vineyard. They are mostly sitting, bleating or munching grass. The monotony is strangely soothing.

You can reach us at ontech@nytimes.com.

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