2020年4月29日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A tote to feel good about — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Take It Easier on Your Skin

From left: Moon Juice’s Milk Cleanse, $32, sephora.com. HoliFrog’s Tashmoo Water Lily Nourishing Milky Wash, $38, dermstore.com. Ranavat’s Luminous Ceremony Cream Cleanser, $42, thedetoxmarket.com. Milk Makeup’s Vegan Milk Cleanser, $30, sephora.com.Courtesy of the brands

Being inside all day long in climate-controlled air can dry out skin, but I’ve found that starting my beauty routine with a gentle, milky cleanser has helped my face maintain moisture. Emily Parr, the co-founder of the New York-based face-wash brand Holifrog, recommends using a mild product in the morning, in particular. “Since you’ve been sleeping all night, your skin doesn’t need heavy lifting,” she told me. HoliFrog’s Tashmoo Water Lily Nourishing Milky Wash contains water lily root and lotus flower, both said to lock in moisture, as well as soothing aloe vera. There’s also Milk Makeup’s Vegan Milk Cleanser, which counts on an innovative blend of water-retaining ingredients like jojoba, baobab and Kalahari melon — plants that naturally grow in arid climates — and lathers to help remove impurities or light makeup. For irritated skin, Milk Cleanse from the wellness brand Moon Juice contains reishi mushroom, which is thought to minimize skin’s water loss, and tocotrienols, a form of antioxidant-rich vitamin E that protects against oxidative stress or an imbalance of free radicals and antioxidants. For a deeper clean, the Luminous Ceremony Cream Cleanser from the Ayurvedic skin-care brand Ranavat contains Manjistha, a superfood in the coffee family known for its detoxifying properties, and can be removed with a warm muslin cloth for slight exfoliation.

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A Look Back at Simpler, Albeit Psychedelic, Times

Members of the Cockettes outside their house on San Francisco’s Haight Street in 1971.Mary Ellen Mark

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A Tote to Feel Good About

Courtesy of Goodee

By Caitlin Agnew

T Contributor

Functional, exquisitely made handbags are a specialty of Byron and Dexter Peart, the Montreal-based twins who co-founded the accessories-focused fashion brand Want Les Essentiels in 2007 (they sold their shares in 2017). Last year, inspired by a trip they took to West Africa as part of the United Nations’ Ethical Fashion Initiative, which connects artisans in developing regions to international fashion brands, the brothers launched Goodee, an online marketplace for ethically made clothing and home goods. And this week, they present the company’s first handbag, the Bassi Market Tote, which embodies their commitment to both timeless design and socially conscious practices. The simple rectangular style is made using cotton fabric hand-woven by artisans working in social cooperatives in the Ouagadougou region of Burkina Faso and is available in four striped color combinations ranging from black and white to a vivid pink and orange. Plus, the bags are produced in Northern Italy by the ethical fashion company Cartiera, which offers gainful employment and training to immigrants and asylum seekers. “We wanted to make the greatest impact through a product that really serves anyone who sees something special in its beauty, design and purpose,” Byron told me. $199, goodeeworld.com.

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A Salty, Sustainable Snack

Courtesy of Goodfish

By Samantha Andriano

I love all things salmon: baked salmon, smoked salmon, salmon roe — I even wholeheartedly enjoy taking fish-oil supplements, knowing that I may benefit in some way from the omega-3s. And so, when I heard about Goodfish, a new brand making snacks from the skin of sustainably caught Wild Alaskan Sockeye, I had to try it. By drying and then flash-frying the skins — which are rich in fatty acids, protein and marine collagen but typically discarded when the fish is processed — the company hopes to offer a healthy alternative to chips. Available in four different flavors (sea salt, barbecue, chile-and-lime and a tangy cranberry), the light and crunchy snack, versions of which are already popular in Asia, can be eaten on the go or sprinkled on top of salads. The brand’s creators, Justin Guilbert and Douglas Riboud, who also founded the ethically sourced coconut water company Harmless Harvest in 2009, launched Goodfish with the intention of improving not only how we eat but the way we source and consume seafood. It’s an industry, says Guilbert, that “could benefit from progressive practices — from improving its environmental impact, wildlife management and social practices and protecting its ecosystem — in a radical way.” $2.99 per bag, goodfish.com.

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Jeremy Anderson’s Digital-Only Ceramics Show

Eric Petschek

Just as New York was grinding to a halt last month, Jeremy Anderson (who co-founded the lighting and design firm Apparatus with his husband, Gabriel Hendifar) was launching the debut show to celebrate his ceramic practice, which he’ll focus on in the years to come. Called “The Piccolo Parade,” the exhibition was named after a set of 34 striped, textured, vaselike objets of varying heights; when viewed together, they resemble a troupe of playfully appealing creatures from a Maurice Sendak illustration. This effect will now be resurrected in Anderson’s new “virtual viewing room,” a slate gray gallery within the Apparatus office in midtown Manhattan, with walls that mimic his pottery’s mix of arcs and clean lines, which can be toured online starting today. It’s a small, clever reminder that the world must go on, somehow, even if it will look and function much differently than before. “These piccolos are my friends, and they have long kept me company,” Anderson wrote in an email. “In that same spirit, I’d like to share them with you.” jeremy-anderson.com.

From T’s Instagram

Revisiting the Posy

Deborah Needleman

Flowers, of course, have a long and wide-ranging symbolic and ceremonial history. But they have also been used more pragmatically, for warding off negative elements, figurative and otherwise. During the Middle Ages and the early modern period, European women carried small, hand-held bouquets of fragrant blossoms and herbs called posies (also known as nosegays) to neutralize the odors of daily life and even, they believed, to protect against disease. “I wanted a mix of poisonous and fragrant flowers and plants. Basically, I was thinking about fighting poison with poison,” says Deborah Needleman, a writer, craftsperson and contributing editor to T, who assembled the small bouquet pictured here. Check out the full story, and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: Technology will not save us

To fight the pandemic, we need to focus more on unglamorous, human-powered tactics.

Technology will not save us

Timo Lenzen

This will sound weird coming from a professional tech writer: Technology will not end a pandemic. People will.

There has been both hype and hand-wringing about tech that turns people’s smartphones into disease sentinels. Governments, health care authorities and companies around the world are using information about where we go to help locate coronavirus hot spots or notify potentially infected people.

There are good elements of this location-tracking technology, and serious shortcomings. Mostly, though, I’m concerned that citizens, companies and political leaders will fixate on this technology at the expense of more helpful but difficult policy choices.

If so, we’ll waste money, risk lives and provide an opening for technologists to oversell what they do.

It’s not all worrisome. To my surprise, the big American technology companies have been sensible and responsible about how our smartphones should track where people infected with the coronavirus have been.

Google and Apple, which are coordinating on technology for infection-tracking projects, are revising their initial plans with input from technical and health care experts. Instead of the usual big company impulse to let money-minded people take the lead, the nerds are wading into the details.

But the perfect should not be the enemy of the good. Location data is likely to be a useful tool in a large pandemic-fighting toolbox.

Notice what I said. ONE tool. Technology is not magic. We need to focus more on unglamorous, human-powered tactics.

Andy Slavitt, the former director of Medicare and Medicaid in the Obama administration, wrote on Twitter that early in the pandemic he worked to see if Google and Apple would collaborate on smartphone tracking. “I was looking for silver bullets,” he tweeted. “But I was lying to myself.”

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They said the United States needed comprehensive, coordinated coronavirus testing, and tens of billions of dollars in government spending to isolate and compensate infected people to limit spread among family members. They said a couple hundred thousand people may be needed to do the laborious work to identify infected people.

What we need to do is hard, and I worry that will make us look for tech quick-fixes. Already there are companies pitching heat-detection scanners, corporate trackers of employees’ health, spying tools for coronavirus detection and software that probably cannot predict disease outbreaks.

I’ve written before about assessing both the effectiveness and creepiness of technology. What if location-tracking technologies like these are creepy AND don’t work?

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Some competent humans in technology

So, technology can’t fix everything! But there are tech companies and tech people deploying their skills and resources in helpful ways during this pandemic.

I asked two technology leaders I trust for examples that might otherwise fly below the radar. I’ll be returning to this topic again.

Roy Bahat, who invests in young tech companies with Bloomberg Beta, mentioned U.S. Digital Response. The group, organized in part by the technology executive Raylene Yung, matches local governments with volunteer technical assistance. The volunteers are helping build websites that would help small businesses request loans, coordinate meal deliveries to homebound people and create health assessment screenings and other digital government services.

Julie Samuels, executive director of the nonprofit industry group Tech:NYC, highlighted a similar tech assistance volunteer program from the New York State government. (Google has also said it helped put together a website for unemployment assistance applications in the state, which, like many, has been overwhelmed by demand.)

Samuels also mentioned Propel, a start-up that helps people manage their food stamp assistance on their phones. The company is now working to help food stamp recipients access personal donations, keep them informed about the coronavirus and share their struggles.

And Bahat talked up the work of the technology executives Joe Wilson and Eric Ries, who are coordinating an umbrella group of companies, volunteer groups and health care providers working to supply personal protective equipment to hospitals and states.

Before we go …

  • Facebook drama: The company pushed out some of the people responsible for finding and stopping hackers. My colleagues Sheera Frenkel and Mike Isaac write that some of the affected people believe they’re being treated unfairly. Also, The Wall Street Journal traces Mark Zuckerberg’s sparring with board members who felt their views were being dismissed.
  • Anime with a side of Marx: The Communist Youth League and other Chinese government-sanctioned groups have been flooding Bilibili, a popular online hub for animation and video games in China, with coronavirus-related conspiracy theories and nationalist messages, Bloomberg Businessweek reports.
  • A raccoon banker runs the Bank of Nook: In a perfect deadpan tone, The Financial Times writes about interest rate cuts by the fictional central bank in the “Animal Crossing: New Horizons” video game. “The bank’s raccoon-like manager, Tom Nook … apologised for ‘any inconvenience’ and offered a compensatory gift of a floor mat shaped like a bell.”

Hugs to this

“I think you’re muted?” “Look at your little cat!” The things we say in our work-from-home days, smushed into 45 seconds.

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