2020年5月6日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Iced cookies too exquisite to eat — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Iced Cookies Too Exquisite to Eat

Left: a batch of Papava cookies, made for T, based on Japanese produce. Right: a raspberry-flavored batch shaped like sakura, or cherry blossoms.Poppy Cosyns

By Katherine Cusumano

T Contributor

Poppy Cosyns has been making ambitious desserts, from swooping meringues to what she describes as “kitschy cupcakes,” since she was a teenager, but it wasn’t until her 20s, while working at a London bakery, that she learned to ice cookies. She found it to be something of an artistic endeavor, akin to creating miniature canvases out of sugar and pigment, but chafed at the predictability of the designs expected of her at work. And so, earlier this year, Cosyns launched her own bespoke iced-cookie operation, Papava (a derivative of papaver, the Latin word for “poppy”), out of her Hackney kitchen. Her elaborate, sugar-spun designs frequently reference antique manuscripts and work by Japanese artists (Cosyns has a master’s in Japanese Studies from London’s School of Oriental and African Studies): a rotund daikon radish, for example, draws on illustrations in the Seikei Zusetsu, an agricultural encyclopedia compiled between 1793 and 1804. For T, she made a batch modeled on Japanese produce (above left), including a plump persimmon and a kabocha squash — “nice, squidgy vegetables,” she says. “The chubby form is something that really appeals to me.” But it’s not only about aesthetics for Cosyns: The sweets, adapted from a classic sugar cookie recipe in variations like matcha and lemon poppy seed, have, she says, “a nice crumbly texture and a good snap.” From $55, email papava.sugarcraft@gmail.com to order.

Know About This

A Design Auction for a Good Cause

Left: the Blossoms vase by Studio Wieki Somers. Right: the Ombre Glass chair by Germans Ermics with Rossana Orlandi Gallery.Left: courtesy of Studio Wieki Somers. Right: courtesy of Rossana Orlandi Gallery

By Meredith Mendelsohn

T Contributor

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When Milan’s highly anticipated Design Week, which includes the annual Salone del Mobile fair, was canceled earlier this spring, designers around the world were especially moved to help the Italian city, hit hard by the coronavirus pandemic. “Milan has done so much for design, and it’s a place where you can go and get exposure, even when you are young,” Francesco Mainardi, of the Milan-based studio and creative agency Mr. Lawrence, told me. He and his partner, Annalisa Rosso, received a deluge of calls from concerned colleagues around the world and, in response, quickly pulled together Design Loves Milano, a 138-lot online auction of limited-edition and one-of-a-kind objects donated by more than 80 international designers, architects and dealers. Scheduled for May 12 at 10 a.m. Eastern time, and hosted by the Milan-based Cambi Auction House, the sale will in part benefit research efforts to develop a Covid-19 vaccine and antibody test at the city’s Luigi Sacco Hospital. (Donors are contributing either half or all of their proceeds, and Cambi is forgoing all of its fees.) It’s a great way to rationalize splurging on a special piece, and there are many to covet, from vintage furniture and lighting by iconic Italian modernists like Gio Ponti and Carlo Scarpa to finds by sought-after contemporary makers, such as this Ombre Glass chair by the Amsterdam-based Germans Ermics and these handmade fiberglass stools designed by the British sensation Faye Toogood. cambiaste.com.

See This

A Painter’s Glance at the Tree Tops

Nicolas Party’s “Trees” (2020).© Nicolas Party, courtesy of the artist and Hauser & Wirth

On Thursday, Hauser & Wirth will open “Canopy,” an online exhibition of 11 watercolors that the New York City-based artist Nicolas Party has created during his time in self-isolation. Though Party primarily works with pastels (and uses oil on his sculptural work), he was drawn to the compactness and mobility of watercolors — given that he is currently working without a proper studio space in upstate New York. “For travelers and scientists in the 18th century, watercolor was a great medium for setting up shop anywhere,” Party explained. Known for his bright, Fauvist-like use of color, Party cast his eye upward, to the tops of trees, which he rendered in shades ranging from hot pinks and oranges to more traditional forest greens. Trees are a recurring subject for the artist, who says he is never painting any particular tree but what he describes as an “archetype of a tree.” As we anxiously wait for the worst of the pandemic to pass, the arrival of spring offers a sliver of hope in revealing nature’s power to persist — and create beauty. “It’s a very visual moment in the year right now,” said Party. “There’s a lot of movement in our heads, even as we have all slowed down and stopped, but the outside hasn’t, really.” “Canopy” goes live at 10 a.m. on May 7, 2020, hauserwirth.com.

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The First Bedding Collection From a Beloved Textile Brand

Courtesy of Block Shop Textiles

As in many New York apartments that might be described as cozy and are now functioning as offices, my bed has become my desk (and breakfast table and movie theater). The softness of my timeworn bedding is soothing, yes, but I’m due for an update. And so I was excited to learn that Block Shop Textiles — the Los Angeles-based line helmed by the sisters Hopie and Lily Stockman and known for its vibrant scarves and home goods hand-block-printed by two family-owned studios in Jaipur, India — is launching its first-ever collection of duvets, quilts and shams. The hot pink duvet cover featuring pinstripes and a simple geometric motif has especially caught my eye. “We love the image of the artist working from bed, from Edith Wharton writing while surrounded by overstuffed pillows and terriers to Matisse sketching on his walls with his brush affixed to a six-foot bamboo stick,” Hopie told me. Of course, working from home is a luxury not afforded to everyone in the midst of the pandemic — thus, Block Shop has teamed up with Suay, a local woman-owned sew shop, to produce masks for essential workers. The masks will also be available to regular customers, and 100 percent of the profits will go to a newly launched food bank for Los Angeles’s garment workers. From $75, blockshoptextiles.com.

Wear This

WFH-Worthy House Slippers

From left: house slippers from Celine by Hedi Slimane, About Arianne, Folk Fortune, Miu Miu and the Row.Courtesy of the brands. Miu Miu image courtesy of Farfetch

Growing up in a Korean household, house slippers — the cushioned, slip-on mules that I’d change into upon returning home — were mandatory. They were more functional than fashionable: My parents would get mine (and still get theirs) at the local Korean grocery store. When I moved away for college, I took the tradition with me but opted for more stylish pairs; now that I’m working from home, I wanted to find a pair of even nicer slippers to trick myself into feeling like I’ve gotten dressed. There’s the Spanish brand About Arianne, which uses local leather craftsmen and puts comfort first. I’m partial to the line’s suede wedge style, with its soft cotton lining. Meanwhile, the Canadian brand Folk Fortune, which supports local artisans all around the world, has sourced these handcrafted raffia slippers from Morocco in an upbeat lime green. In my dreams, I’d wear the so-called sock shoes from the Row, a slip-on flat made from a sheer nylon mesh, available in neutrals and a soft lavender perfect for spring; elsewhere, Celine offers a leather babouche that comes in a buttery soft calfskin in white, black and python, and Miu Miu makes a minimalist slip-on flat decorated with a string of dainty crystals.

From T’s Instagram

Eight Photographers’ Pictures From Isolation

Alec Soth’s “Untitled” (2020).Alec Soth

T asked a number of contemporary photographers, many of whom typically derive inspiration from the wider world, how they are approaching a newfound intimacy with the ordinary, and to share what they have invented within it. Some relayed almost mystical encounters with nature and the animal world: Domingo Milella discovered ancient symbols on the rugged outskirts of Bari, Italy; Richard Mosse communed with the craggy topography of the Burren landscape in Ireland; Asako Narahashi, in Japan, found solace alongside a rescued cat. Others have found ongoing projects imbued with fresh relevance. See more — and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: An e-commerce future, ready or not

All this online shopping might stick. Here's what this could mean for our budgets and habits.

An e-commerce future, ready or not

Jake Terrell

We have shopped online a ton during the pandemic, and some of those habits will stick. But I suspect our more e-commerce lives will have unintended consequences.

Buying online might become pricier or less convenient, we might need to rethink fast deliveries, and our neighborhoods may look different.

I sketched out some future possibilities to get us thinking about how our shopping budgets and habits could shift.

Mini warehouses might pop up everywhere: If more of us are ordering online, companies might opt to open more small package distribution hubs closer to where people live to provide faster deliveries. But that will mean more spots where delivery trucks move in and out, increasing traffic, noise and pollution.

So far, we haven’t consistently planned roads, airspace and neighborhoods for more home deliveries. But in the future, cities and towns could impose costs and restrictions on deliveries, like congestion fees or requiring clustered deliveries instead of allowing trucks to drive into the same housing development multiple times a day.

Some changes might lead to higher prices for what we buy online, Ken Cassar, an e-commerce industry consultant, told me.

Shortages might continue: One of the myriad reasons we’re having trouble finding toilet paper and pasta online is that Target and Amazon limit the quantity of products they stow in warehouses. That saves them money when shopping behaviors are predictable, but it leaves less flexibility when demand spikes unexpectedly.

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If coronavirus hot spots pop up occasionally, it’s possible isolated product shortages will continue. Or if e-commerce companies permanently decide to keep more products on hand, that could increase costs for the companies — and for us.

Fast delivery might cost more: Most online shopping companies hate the cost and headaches of fast shipping, and it’s not great for the environment either, said Sucharita Kodali, who studies the e-commerce industry for Forrester Research.

Companies could seize this moment — when they must invest more in e-commerce and we’re thinking about our shopping habits — to retrain us. We might be forced to consider the cost and consequence of that heavy bottle of laundry detergent arriving at our door from thousands of miles away.

Rest assured we have been paying for that “free” delivery of the laundry detergent, even if the costs are hidden. Now, the cost could become more explicit.

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Returns might be harder: For some items, like clothes, roughly one in five items bought online are returned. But now because of sanitation concerns, many stores are limiting the returns they’re accepting.

If safety fears continue, return policies may permanently become more strict. Stores that can’t resell as much of their returned merchandise, or that must sanitize it more thoroughly, will most likely pass their higher costs onto shoppers.

We’re all trying to figure out what the future of work, school, social interactions and family life will be. Maybe all of it, and our purchasing habits, will go back to normal. But I want us to consider that fast forwarding to an e-commerce future might require us to make adjustments we didn’t expect.

A glimpse at Facebook’s fringes

For the first time, Facebook has deleted accounts related to QAnon, the intricate, baseless conspiracy theory that a widespread plot is trying to undermine President Trump.

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The QAnon groups had hundreds of thousands of Facebook followers, the Times tech reporter Sheera Frenkel wrote on Twitter.

The groups are another reminder that it’s not just Russian propagandists trying to warp what Americans believe. It’s us. We’re doing this to ourselves.

Facebook said in a report that the people behind the deleted accounts at times invented fictitious people to post about President Trump or promote extremist ideas and — more recently — coronavirus-related conspiracies, bogus cures and racist diatribes against Asian-Americans.

An odd detail: Graphika, a company that studies false information online, said some of the Facebook accounts associated with QAnon also advertised merchandise including a T-shirt with a “Don’t be gross!” message that encouraged hand washing.

It’s not necessarily against Facebook’s rules to post lies or even hateful rhetoric. But it is against the company’s rules to do so with accounts that hide people’s identity and coordinate information among multiple accounts.

One topic that Sheera said she wished Facebook had addressed is the ripple effects of these accounts created under false pretenses. How long were the Facebook accounts in operation, and how many people did they direct to websites where people encountered even more fringe ideas?

Conspiracies might start on Facebook, but they don’t necessarily end there.

Before we go …

  • Let me catch you up: California last year passed a law that said people who drive for Uber and Lyft are employees entitled to minimum wages and benefits. The companies said no way. And on Tuesday, California sued Uber and Lyft for breaking the law, as my colleague Kate Conger wrote. Up next: Each side will try to persuade judges or the public to back its position.
  • Volunteering to let your boss spy on you: My colleague Adam Satariano planted employee-tracking software on himself. It logged every website he browsed, graded him on productivity and tattled on his midday bike ride with his kids. After three weeks, even our boss concluded, “Ick.” (CORRECT, wise boss.)
  • Two words: Zoom Bachelorette.

Hugs to this

Oh, wow, I applaud the creativity behind this “surfing” on dry land.

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