2020年5月13日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Great-smelling shower products, in bulk — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Great-Smelling Shower Products, in Bulk

From left: Kiehl’s Bath and Shower Liquid Body Cleanser, $49, kiehls.com. Red Flower Palo Santo Purifying Body Wash, $200, redflower.com. Oribe Signature Shampoo, $147, oribe.com. Bathing Culture Mind and Body Wash, $175, bathingculture.com.Courtesy of the brands

With brands of all kinds aiming to reduce plastic waste, it’s now possible to purchase not just your laundry detergent and toilet paper in bulk but also higher-end body and hair-care products. This is an economic option, too: Buying a one-gallon bottle of the fig-extract-infused body wash from the aromatherapeutic brand EO, for example, saves shoppers $35. Yael Alkalay, the founder and C.E.O. of the beauty and wellness brand Red Flower, started to sell body and hand washes, lotions and hair care in one-and-one-third-gallon jugs in February, which, Alkalay told me, now helps assuage panic buying of several smaller bottles all at once. Kiehl’s also offers its Grapefruit Bath and Shower Liquid Body Cleanser in a one-liter pump, while the Mind and Body Wash from the bath-focused brand Bathing Culture also comes in a gigantic bottle (and is refillable at select stores, including CAP Beauty in Manhattan’s West Village). On the hair-care front, formulas that are suited to a range of hair types are ideal for household sharing, like Oribe’s Signature Shampoo, which comes in a one-liter pump and adds shine to locks without weighing them down, thanks to vegetable-derived humectants. Or try Living Proof’s Perfect Hair Day Shampoo — made with the brand’s patented Healthy Hair Molecule (octafluoropentyl methacrylate), which allows for less frequent washes by repelling dirt and oil, and eliminates frizz by blocking humidity — available in a 24-ounce size that lasts about six months.

Visit This

A Digital Art Show in an Austrian Castle

Left: a chandelier made from glass, brass and paper, designed by Sophie Dries and produced by Kaia, installed in Schloss Hollenegg’s Red Room. Right: a chair molded from mycelium, designed by Jonas Edvard.Lupi Spuma

By Gisela Williams

T Contributing Editor

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Each year, the curator Alice Stori Liechtenstein invites a group of young designers to live and work for one to three weeks at Schloss Hollenegg, her husband’s family’s 12th-century castle in rural Austria. The participants end up creating an object for the castle’s grand spaces or grounds in an effort to bring contemporary urban culture to the isolated countryside. While this year’s public exhibition of the installations has been canceled, Stori Liechtenstein instead organized an online show. To address the theme of Walden — a nod to the Henry David Thoreau work and to the German word for forest — Stori Liechtenstein asked the participants to think about the “uncomfortable aspects of nature,” she told me. The French designer Marlene Huissoud crafted a hand-knotted wool rug inspired by swarms of insects; the Danish product designer Jonas Edvard created a chair made from mycelium; and the Brooklyn-based studio Charlap Hyman & Herrero collaborated with the wallpaper company Calico to create a lush if violent print that depicts entangled vines, as well as insects copulating and biting each other’s heads off, that covers the ceiling of Schloss Hollenegg’s tapestry room. Adam Charlap Hyman and Andre Herrero designed it before the coronavirus took hold, but, Charlap Hyman said, “there’s an underlying darkness to it that we are feeling now.” “Walden” is on view online through May 30, schlosshollenegg.at.

Wear This

A Spring Layer That’s Old and New

From left: tunics from Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Fendi and Loewe.Ilya Milstein

By Jameson Montgomery

It’s a testament to a garment’s power when it appears across civilizations and millenniums. The tunic — a loosefitting gown thought to have originated in the Indus Valley in the third millennium B.C.E. and since favored by ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans, Catholic clergy and the 1920s-era Italian fashion designer Mariano Fortuny — was also found on many spring 2020 men’s runways. At Lanvin, Bruno Sialelli made the case for a tunic as a breezy layer to be worn with suiting, while Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson cut his in blush suede and paired it with floor-grazing trousers. Designers also rendered their tunics in colorful prints: Virgil Abloh opted for surreal florals at Louis Vuitton, and Silvia Venturini Fendi showed a style adorned with a graphically manipulated version of the house’s signature double-F monogram. The tunic resurgence isn’t unique to the luxury market, though. COS sells one in cotton shirting, and Perry Ellis offers another in linen chambray. Fashion tends to pull inspiration from whatever came 20 years before, but in this case 2,000 is more accurate.

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Drink This

A Delicious Way to Support the Restaurant Business

At right, cocktails made from the Restaurant Project aperitifs inspired by Kismet, Poole’s Diner and Rich Table.Courtesy of Haus

By Nick Marino

T Contributor

When the coronavirus hit, Woody and Helena Hambrecht, the husband-and-wife team behind the Sonoma County, Calif., aperitif brand Haus, discovered something miraculous. Their business, founded just last year, didn’t crater as they had feared. It skyrocketed. Since January, sales for their direct-to-consumer, low-alcohol-content drinks — made on their 200-acre ranch with natural ingredients such as ginger, cinnamon, yuzu and elderflower — are up about 500 percent. “I’m sure it has something to do with e-commerce growing,” Helena says. The hospitality industry, though, is suffering a profoundly different outcome, and so the couple have spent the past several weeks developing the Restaurant Project: a line of aperitifs based on the flavor profiles of the food menus at more than a dozen influential restaurants around America, including Kismet in Los Angeles (whose recipe contains beet, hibiscus and rose), Marlow & Sons in Brooklyn (grapefruit, fig leaf and vanilla) and Compère Lapin in New Orleans (passion fruit and lemongrass). Haus is donating 100 percent of the profits from every bottle to each respective restaurant with the goal of helping chefs pay their bills and staffs until they can reopen. “We’ve already had pretty much every chef be like: ‘We can’t wait to carry this in the restaurant,’” Helena says. “That’s the dream.” Two bottles for $80, drink.haus.

Read This

A Look at an Artist Inspired by the Natural World

Left: J.B. Blunk, “#2 Arch” (1976). Right: J.B. Blunk, “Black Rising Moon” (1970).Left: © J.B. Blunk Collection. Right: photograph by Daniel Dent, © J.B. Blunk Collection.

By Samuel Rutter

T Contributor

Best known for his large-scale public sculptures — like “Santa Cruz (Blunk’s Hunk)” (1968), a gnarled piece of redwood carved like a boat — J.B. Blunk was also a proficient painter and jeweler who turned his Inverness, Calif., home into a showcase for the artistic splendor of natural materials, including redwood burls and stones made smooth by the Eel River, which he foraged himself in the north of the state. Given his output and the fact that, in the 1950s, he was an apprentice to Japanese masters like Rosanjin and Kaneshige Toyo, it’s surprising that no monograph on his life and work has existed until now. “J.B. Blunk,” which publishes tomorrow, has been meticulously curated by Mariah Nielson, Blunk’s daughter and the director of his estate, and spans the artist’s long and varied career. What makes his oeuvre so exceptional, according to Nielson, is “the confluence and synergy between life and work, and the fact that he didn’t distinguish between art, design and craft the way we do in Western culture.” The book is laid out to reflect Blunk’s approach: Images of sculptures of wood and stone sit alongside those of early ceramic works and items of gold jewelry, many of which served as studies for the sculptures. Its release was initially meant to coincide with Blunk’s first (and also long-overdue) solo show in New York, at the Kasmin Gallery, which will now take place in the fall and feature works from both the artist’s home and private collections. Head to Vimeo to flip through the book and see some of Blunk’s home. $55, jbblunk.com.

From T’s Instagram

Playing Dress-Up

Courtesy of Justin Vivian Bond

Perhaps more so than other reorganization projects, cleaning out your closet can make the old feel new again and inspire a bit of daring, creativity and even joy. We asked models, designers and other members of T’s community to rethink what it means to dress up (and then stay in). Here, the artist and performer Justin Vivian Bond (@mxviv), who explained: “I’ve been livestreaming happy-hour performances at 5 p.m. on Thursdays from my house upstate, the House of Whimsy. I created a character named Auntie Glam to bring some cheer to others, and each week I dig deeper into my closet. I bought this dress in a vintage store in Provincetown in 2012 to wear when I officiated Rufus Wainwright’s marriage to Jörn Weisbrodt. I thought it looked spiritual.” Visit our Instagram Stories Highlights to see more, and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: Where is my driverless car?

The technology is tricky, and driverless cars may never fix all the problems we hoped they would.

Where is my driverless car?

Nicolas Ortega

The pandemic has accelerated some long-predicted technology habits like telemedicine and online grocery shopping. But driverless car technology might be kicked into reverse.

The ubiquitous computer-driven car that seemed just around the corner for a decade is now further away than ever.

I want driverless cars to work. They could spare us a lot of needless death. But there are big obstacles to the technology, including that it doesn’t work so well (yet), threatens to bankrupt all but the richest companies that try it and might never solve many of the problems we hoped it would address.

The struggles of robot cars make me wonder if it’s possible to shoot for the moon with technology without shooting ourselves in the foot by hoping for magic.

We can blame the pandemic for some of the struggles. Testing of many computer-controlled cars is on pause to protect human minders from the coronavirus, and many companies can’t afford to splurge now on costly technology, the New York Times reporters Cade Metz and Erin Griffith wrote on Tuesday.

This is slowing driverless cars’ development, but as my colleagues wrote, the problems are bigger. We can’t blame the coronavirus for everything. The technology needed to make the cars safe is even harder to master than companies thought — and the problems the tech is trying to fix are even bigger.

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I remember exactly where I was when I read The Times’s first reveal of Google’s computer-piloted cars 10 year ago. Driverless cars felt like a starry, life-saving advance that encapsulated the best of what tech can do.

The optimism slowly gave way to the reality of the challenge: A self-driving car must “read” and predict what’s happening around it and respond in fractions of a second. Compared to airplanes on autopilot, vehicles on the road must digest far more information from other cars and people acting unpredictably. Any slip could mean someone dies.

That has confined computer-piloted cars mostly to relatively uncomplicated tasks like driving people around gated retirement communities, or rote rides in defined areas — and the cars are grounded if there are dust storms or rain.

That’s still an incredible achievement, and more advances are coming. But driverless cars need to be everywhere to make us truly safer and achieve other hoped-for societal benefits.

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Even most driverless car optimists now say the technology won’t be ready for mainstream use and affordable for many more years.

An even more sobering thought is that driverless cars might make some problems we want them to solve — like traffic, sprawl and air pollution — even worse. If driverless cars quadruple the capacity of highway lanes, but people travel many more miles when they don’t have to do the driving, then traffic may not get better.

We want ambitious technology that can really change the world. But sometimes I worry that optimism can make us less likely to confront the reality of congestion, air pollution and road safety. My colleague Farhad Manjoo, writing about a different issue, reached a similar conclusion. Technology can’t fix everything. People are going to have to make hard choices to solve hard problems.

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Say bye to your cheap(-ish) burritos

Here’s the dirty secret of delivering meals to our door: It costs a fortune, and almost everyone involved in getting food to our homes hates it.

For years, many restaurants have gritted their teeth and worked with food delivery companies like Uber Eats and DoorDash, hoping they’d get enough new customers to make the fees they pay worthwhile.

The food delivery companies mostly lost money on each order, but they hoped they eventually could stop the bleeding. (Some of them also said they believed that deliveries with driverless vehicles would fix their losses, but, ahem. See above.)

The true cost of food delivery is a brutal economic reality that most of us never consider, unless we investigate the hidden markups on our cheeseburger dinners.

But now it gets interesting. My colleagues Mike Isaac and Kate Conger wrote on Tuesday about the food ordering companies Uber and Grubhub possibly merging. I’ll let my friends at the DealBook newsletter give you the details.

What you need to know is the food delivery companies likely believe their future depends on mushing together to get big and muscular enough to raise prices for restaurants and for diners like us.

Food delivery is here to stay, probably. We’ll all just have to pay more for it.

Before we go …

  • Ready the troops for a misinformation war: My colleague Kevin Roose worries that anti-vaccine activists will spin reasonable concerns about a potential coronavirus vaccine “into widespread, unfounded fears about its safety.” He says that public health officials, internet companies and all of us must lay the groundwork now to restore people’s faith in medicine, stop bogus information from spreading and reach loved ones who are susceptible to anti-vaccine propaganda.
  • Hooray, innovation in fraud! Brian X. Chen, The Times’s consumer technology writer, has practical advice to spot and stop pandemic-related scams, which are now everywhere.
  • Fighting technology surveillance, with technology: Tech-savvy Indians are finding workarounds to what they believe are their government’s invasive tactics with its coronavirus-tracking app, BuzzFeed News reported.

Hugs to this

This cat does NOT look amused at the human dancing behind it. That judgmental stare at the camera is everything.

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