2020年7月8日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Handblown glass, sparkly shoes, Scottish jewelry — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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A Grand Hotel Reopens in Texas

Left: the double-height entry foyer of the inn features a hand-painted mural by Deborah Philips, inspired by Texas’s pastoral hill country. Right: the pink-wallpapered hallway of the hotel’s LaVerne suite. Douglas Friedman

By Iva Dixit

Reopening this month is Austin’s Commodore Perry Estate, an Italian Renaissance Revival mansion secluded within the city’s Hyde Park neighborhood. Both a 54-room hotel and private club by Auberge Resorts, the Commodore was originally built in 1928 by the architect Hal Thompson as the country residence of the Texan businessman Edgar Perry. The Italianate mansion’s original rooms, with picturesque accompanying Juliet balconies, have been transformed by the designer Ken Fulk into signature suites with walls in shades of pink, celadon and sunshine yellow and furnishings in velvet and faux fur. Hand-painted murals by the artist Deborah Phillips are offset by midcentury pieces sourced by Fulk from over two years’ worth of shopping trips to the state’s famous Round Top Antiques Fair. While Perry may have sold the estate in 1944 with the regret that it was “a great place to throw a party but too big to live in,” Fulk’s vision gives the mansion a second life as a place to gather — perhaps for dinner at the Commodore’s Lutie’s Garden Restaurant, with a menu filled with produce grown nearby — or merely spend a decadent afternoon strolling the estate, which spans 10 acres and includes a 50-foot swimming pool. Rates start at $525 per night, aubergeresorts.com.

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Robert Longo’s Cinematic Musings

Robert Longo’s “Untitled (Ferguson Police, August 13, 2014)” (2014).Courtesy of the artist; Metro Pictures, New York; Petzel, New York. Collection of the Broad Art Foundation

By M.H. Miller

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I’ve looked at a lot of digital exhibitions from art institutions in the last few months, and my response has almost unanimously been: I wish I could see this in person. One of the more satisfying examples of this kind of presentation — for me, at least — is “Robert Longo: Quarantine Films,” on the website of the Garage Museum of Contemporary Art in Moscow. It functions as both a watch list and a kind of autobiography, interspersing examples of Longo’s work alongside his thoughts on various classics of cinema and how they’ve influenced him. (Longo made one deeply flawed but rather criminally underrated film himself in 1995: “Johnny Mnemonic,” with Keanu Reeves as the star and a screenplay by William Gibson.) Writing about Martin Scorsese’s 1976 film “Taxi Driver,” he reminisces about moving to New York and driving a cab to support himself. In a riff about Jean-Luc Godard’s “Contempt” (1963), which Longo describes as “a film about making a film,” he concludes that “sometimes beautiful is all art needs to be.” He even makes a fairly convincing case for 2019’s “Joker” — a film I walked out of — as a useful parable about the importance of gun control. Longo is an artist with a style you might call apocalyptic. He makes achingly beautiful paintings out of ugly things, whether a mushroom cloud, a businessman who appears to be falling through the air or a militarized police force, shrouded in tear gas and backlit by the golden arches of a McDonald’s sign. His work is scarily relevant in 2020. “Robert Longo: Quarantine Films” is live now on garagemca.org.

Wear This

Five Playful, Crystal-Embellished Sandals

Clockwise from top left: Justine Clenquet, justineclenquet.com. Rene Caovilla, renecaovilla.com. By Far, byfar.com. Roger Vivier, matchesfashion.com. Gianvito Rossi, matchesfashion.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Gage Daughdrill

Sandals for summer are no more groundbreaking than florals for spring, and yet donning the right pair can still be an opportunity for self-expression, one that can dress up an ordinary denim skirt or a cotton voile dress. This summer, opt for sandals embellished with crystals to add a sense of decadence. René Caovilla has brightened an otherwise ordinary kitten-heeled thong, while By Far has reinvented the mule, laying the over-foot strap with a grid of thinly cut rhinestones. The French jewelry designer Justine Clenquet has joined in with her debut footwear line — launched this month, in step with her brand’s 10th anniversary — which features vintage-inspired silhouettes adorned with Swarovski rhinestones and disco-like glitter. For those looking for slightly more subtle options, both Gianvito Rossi and Roger Vivier offer styles that can easily transition from a long walk in the park to an intimate dinner, making stepping around just a little more sparkly and fun.

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Colorful Handblown Glassware for Gathering

Cupples glassware comes in five color options: crystal, amber, slate, aqua and blush. Adam Holtzinger/Keep

By Minju Pak

In March, as New York City went into lockdown, the creative community working at UrbanGlass — a nonprofit organization that provides glassblowing studio space, exhibitions and classes for artists and designers in Downtown Brooklyn — faced an uncertain future. Glassblowing is impossible to do at home, and since glassblowers work in proximity to one another and often share tools, reopening the studio — even with social distancing protocols in place — is a tricky proposition. In a show of hope and resolve, three artists — Susan Spiranovich and Adam Holtzinger, the founders of the design company Keep, along with Anders Rydstedt — decided to team up on a project called Re:Gather, the results of which will be made and shipped as soon as the artists are able to return to a studio. Their first product, Cupples, is a series of simple and elegant glasses offered in five colors, including blush, aqua and amber, and features an interlocking design — a glass band wrapped around half the cups corresponds to an equivalent cutout in the other half — that illustrates the need for social connection. “We recognized a shared sense of loss for in-person collaboration that is essential to our work,” says Rydstedt. The name Re:Gather may seem self-explanatory, but it is also a reference to the glassblowing process itself, during which the material is gathered or collected on the end of a blowpipe. Finally, Cupples is meant to remind us of the comforts of sharing a meal with one another, with the hope that we will be able to do so in the near future. $200 for a set of two, keepbrooklyn.com.

Covet This

One-of-a-Kind Earrings by Grainne Morton

Left: a pair of Morton’s Rainbow Ornamental Scroll Balance drop earrings. Right: her Cicada and Bow earrings. The cicadas, according to Morton, symbolize personal growth and change. Courtesy of Grainne Morton

By Thessaly La Force

This is a momentous year for the Irish-born, Scotland-based jeweler Grainne Morton: She’s celebrating her 50th birthday, as well as her 25th anniversary making her fastidiously eclectic jewelry that has found a fan-base of avid collectors around the world. Morton had originally planned to mark her double milestone with a large celebration in a castle just outside of Edinburgh. But the lockdown meant downshifting plans, and in the quiet of the last few months, she and her team have instead been hard at work, making unique pieces of jewelry that feel like the rarest of finds — 10 of which will be released this Friday. “My parents had an antique shop where they lived in Northern Ireland,” Morton explained to me. “They would come visit me in Scotland and spend all week trawling the antique shops here. In order to spend time with them, I would come with, and I started collecting.” Morton is fond of mixing mother-of-pearl, moonstones and other gems with found cameos, antique buttons and vintage glass. Everything is made by hand, sometimes taking weeks to complete, as the individual components are first set in silver and then soldered together into playful compositions, often set on a cross or dripping from an anchor piece. As we’re thinking more consciously about who and what we surround ourselves with right now, Morton is creating more than just a beautiful object but a sense of permanence amid the ephemeral world around her. Available July 10, grainnemorton.co.uk.

From T’s Instagram

Celebrating Linda Goode Bryant

Linda Goode Bryant and Senga Nengudi at Just Above Midtown gallery.Courtesy of Senga Nengudi

This summer, Linda Goode Bryant, the pioneering art dealer, received the 2020 Berresford Prize from the nonprofit United States Artists, which is awarded annually to “a cultural practitioner who has contributed significantly to the advancement, well-being and care of artists in society.” In 1974, Bryant founded the gallery Just Above Midtown, on 57th Street, which became one of New York City’s first dedicated art spaces for Black artists (Stevie Wonder was a regular). “The making of art is uniquely human, and it enhances who we are and how we relate to one another,” Bryant told Senga Nengudi, one of the artists who got her start at JAM, in a recent conversation over Zoom. “It makes us more empathetic and understanding of the world around us. It helps us relate to people who we don’t see as similar to ourselves. All of us who make this thing that’s called art, no matter what form it is, understand this. Just Above Midtown was an art piece.” The two also discussed the gallerist-artist relationship and the trajectory of Bryant’s career — she now runs the New York-based urban-farming initiative Project Eats. See more pictures on T’s Instagram — and follow us.

An item on essential oils in the June 17 edition of the T List had an incorrect byline. Its author is Caitie Kelly, not Caitlin Kelly.

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On Tech: The tech giants’ invisible helpers

Why we should all care who controls the invisible infrastructure of the global internet.

The tech giants’ invisible helpers

Ginko Yang

My friends, I vow to make you care about internet cables and metal poles in the ground. Please don’t immediately unsubscribe from this newsletter.

The magic of the internet requires a lot of very boring stuff behind the scenes. We wouldn’t be able to watch kitten videos on YouTube without an elaborate system of hulking warehouses lined with computer equipment, thick coils of wire that spans oceans and tree-size poles laced with internet cables.

We mostly never see or think about this stuff. But one of the underappreciated ways that today’s technology superpowers like Google and Amazon stay superpowers is their mastery of all the boring stuff that makes the internet possible. This is the kind of advantage the tech superpowers have that is hard for governments to break apart or for rivals to compete with.

The tech giants’ fingerprints, brain power and dollars are all over the invisible backbone of the global internet.

Facebook on Monday talked about undersea internet pipelines it is helping fund in Latin America, sub-Saharan Africa and other global spots to help improve online access and speeds. My colleague Abdi Latif Dahir wrote this week about Google’s first use of high-altitude balloons to transmit the internet in areas of Kenya.

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Google’s internet balloons — like Facebook’s failed attempt at internet-beaming drones — might be pointlessly showy pieces of equipment where conventional cellphone towers are better suited. But no matter. This is the relatively glamorous tip of an otherwise boring iceberg.

Google, Facebook, Amazon and other big American tech companies collectively spend tens of billions of dollars each year on things like massive warehouses of computer and internet equipment that let them speed along your Instagram posts and home shopping purchases.

You might have driven by some of these computing centers and never noticed them. But the tech giants’ efforts to make these boring workhorses more efficient and effective is one of the most important advancements in technology in the last decade.

It doesn’t stop there. Increasingly lining the world’s oceans are undersea cables that are partly or entirely funded by internet companies and are essential cogs in the internet. And there are even way more boring projects like software that Facebook helped design for Wi-Fi hot spots tailored to the demands of places like rural Kenya where internet connections are spotty.

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The internet powers aren’t doing this for selfless reasons. They know that if they help improve the world’s internet-carrying backbone, we are likely to spend more time Googling, watching YouTube kittens and pinging friends on WhatsApp.

Few other companies can afford to build undersea internet cables, have the same level of skill in running data centers, or care so much about the internet’s boring backbone. Little companies and all us kitten lovers benefit from the tech superpowers’ mastery over the online plumbing, but the giants benefit more. In some cases, the pipes they’re building carry their digital traffic alone.

We tend to focus on tech companies’ dominance over parts of the internet we can see, like search engines and social media sites. But the superpowers’ command of the invisible infrastructure of the digital world gives them an untouchable advantage. The boring stuff turns out to be incredibly important.

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Has technology failed public health?

No, but also a little.

Some U.S. states and countries have released smartphone apps to help notify people if they’ve come into contact with someone who later tests positive for the coronavirus. These digital helpers can’t stop a pandemic, but they’re supposed to be one tool to help public health officials limit the spread of infection.

I’ve written before about a two-question test for any technology like this: Does it work, and is it creepy? No technology can be perfectly effective, so we and our elected representatives have to decide what balance of creepy and effective we’re willing to accept.

In Norway, the government decided the creepy outweighed the effective.

My colleague Natasha Singer wrote about a temporary ban on Norway’s coronavirus-tracking app after officials found it didn’t justify the risk of the app’s collection of large amounts of people’s personal information.

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The experience in Norway doesn’t mean virus-tracking apps shouldn’t exist anywhere. Norway is unusual because there are relatively few coronavirus infections in the country. That makes it harder to prove whether the app is effective, and it tilts the creepy-effective balance to the creepy side of the scale.

One way countries could tilt the balance the other way is by putting more attention on limiting the amount of information those apps collect about people.

The reality is that the coronavirus is going to be part of our lives for some time, and we need virus-tracking apps as one tool in our pandemic-fighting toolbox. An official from Norway’s public health agency told Natasha that banning the app was the wrong step, because the country will need a virus tracking app if there is a big outbreak later.

We do need to remember, though, not to overly fixate on either the potential privacy harms or the potential benefits of technology, which can never be a cure-all for disease or any other human problem. And we need to find the right balance between the creepy and the effective elements of these apps.

Before we go …

  • Uh, Facebook’s week has not gone well: A two-year, independent audit of Facebook’s civil rights policies and practices repeatedly faulted the company for its lax responses to hate speech and misinformation, my colleague Mike Isaac wrote.The report commissioned by the company suggests that Facebook isn’t just a mirror reflecting our sometimes nasty and divided world, but a site that’s making things worse by pulling people into self-reinforcing extremist beliefs.Greg Bensinger, a member of The New York Times’s editorial board, wrote that a major takeaway from the audit is that “even when Facebook commits to reforms, it almost never does enough.” (Not unrelated: Organizers of an advertiser boycott of Facebook are not happy with the company’s commitment to reforms.)
  • Amazon Prime, but from Walmart: The big box store is ready to start its own membership program that will offer perks such as discounts at Walmart gas pumps, unlimited same-day delivery of groceries and some other merchandise, as well as the option to check out at stores without waiting in line, according to Recode, a tech news publication. The question is whether the middle of a pandemic and a related economic crisis is the right moment for Walmart to start a shopper membership program.
  • Consider this before you splurge on a new gadget: Can you replace the battery? Will it be easy to fix? Do you need this, really? The Times personal technology columnist Brian X. Chen walks you through things you should consider so you can buy stuff that will last longer.

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