2020年7月22日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Well-designed puzzles, natural bug sprays, Paul McCarthy — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Relaxing Puzzles With a Sharp Design Sensibility

Left: a selection of Ordinary Habit puzzles. Right: a detail of a puzzle by the artist and graphic designer Marleigh Culver.Photos: Guillermo Cano. Prop Styling: Emily Karian de Cano

By Samuel Rutter

T Contributor

Just over a year ago — well before Covid-19 ushered in a renewed interest in indoor activities — Echo Hopkins found herself taking a few minutes out of each workday to complete a puzzle as a small way of escaping screens and refocusing her attention. This eventually led her, together with her mother, Teresa Hopkins, to co-found Ordinary Habit, under which the pair have now launched a limited-edition series of jigsaw puzzles that marries the mindfulness of play with thoughtful design. “We wanted to encourage a return to doing things that are a little more tactile,” said Echo, who is based in Brooklyn, N.Y. “There’s such a simple joy to finding one piece that fits in a puzzle.” Meanwhile, to engage the eyes, they have commissioned female illustrators based around the world, including Holly Jolley in Chile, Bodil Jane in Amsterdam and the New York City-based artist Shawna X, whose work adorns the exterior of the inclusive performance space House of Yes in Bushwick. There are six 500-piece options in all, each of which is made of recycled materials and comes in a box with a side resembling the spine of a novel that fits seamlessly on a bookshelf. A portion of the profits will be donated monthly to the Loveland Foundation, which provides financial assistance for therapy and other mental-health services for Black women and girls. $40, ordinaryhabit.com.

Covet This

10 Vessels From Master Potter Lucie Rie

Ceramics by Lucie Rie to be featured in the Phillips Design Auction on July 29, 2020.Courtesy of Phillips

By Thessaly La Force

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In 1938, the potter Lucie Rie, then 36, fled Vienna with her wheel and a suitcase of her work. She found refuge in London, where she would live for the remainder of her life, making artful ceramics and becoming one of Europe’s most celebrated talents. Unlike other master English potters such as Bernard Leach, who was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, Rie drew her influences from both Modernism (in particular, the spare sensibility of the midcentury Austrian architect and designer Josef Hoffmann) as well as much older references, both European and Asian. As Rie told the American journalist Claire Frankel in June 1990 in The International Herald Tribune: “I was not so much influenced by the art school [School of Decorative Arts] as by a small country museum on the border of Hungary where there are Roman pots in the museum and maybe five Chinese pots that influenced me. My teaching in Vienna was ‘look at those beautiful glazes. You will never be able to do that.’ It was a great incentive. And I did it.” Rie experimented with various colors and textures, often applying the glaze directly onto the surface of her stoneware or porcelain works before firing them only once (other potters often use a more complicated process of bisque firing, applying glaze and then refiring the object again). She limited her decoration to sgraffito (using a needle to scratch on lines), subtle spirals, lips or inlay — and her pots are beautiful in their simplicity. Ten of them (from Frankel’s collection) are on view by appointment at the Phillips auction house as part of its Design Auction this week. Phillips, 450 Park Ave, New York, N.Y., 10022, phillips.com.

Buy This

Four DEET-Free, Moisturizing Bug Sprays

Clockwise from left: Jao’s Patio Oil, $30, jaobrand.com. Kinfield’s Golden Hour, $22, kinfield.com. Alba Botanica’s Anti-Bug Spray, $16, walmart.com. Beekman 1802’s Bye Bye Bugs Herbal Bug Repellent Bars, $12, beekman1802.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

As temperatures rise this July, so does the presence of pesky mosquitoes. And with the outdoors being the only safe place to socialize (from a distance) at the moment, a good bug spray is essential. These four DEET-free insect repellents promise not only to deter insects but also to moisturize and refresh tired summer skin. The Brooklyn-based personal wellness brand Kinfield created its Golden Hour ($22) spray using a strain of citronella sourced from Indonesia. Its fast-drying formula also contains lemongrass and clove, offering a more pleasing scent than your typical bug spray, as well as lauric acid for hydration. Alba Botanica’s Anti-Bug Spray ($18) uses lemongrass and citronella as well, plus peppermint oil, which provides a cooling sensation sure to alleviate any existing bites. Patio Oil ($30), a super hydrating balm from the Pennsylvania-based brand Jao, soothes skin with jojoba butter and vitamin E while warding off bugs with lemon eucalyptus oil. Beekman 1802, which crafts its goat-milk-rich products in upstate New York, carries a versatile bug repellent bar soap called Bye Bye Bugs Herbal Bug Repellent Bars, that can be used in the shower (the body releases the fragrance — citronella, lavender and lemon peel — into the air later) or simply rubbed on clothing or pulse points for shorter exposures. The bars are cut into small squares ideal for throwing in a weekend bag or having on hand for hikes.

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A Poet’s Visual Memoir From the ’70s

A grid from “Memory” (2020) by Bernadette Mayer. Courtesy of the Bernadette Mayer Papers, Special Collections & Archives, University of California, San Diego

By Megan O’Grady

In July 1971, the avant-garde poet and photographer Bernadette Mayer embarked on an “emotional science project,” documenting each day of the month with a roll of Kodachrome film and a journal entry. Mayer created a seven-hour audio recording of the text, and the result — which was shown by gallerist Holly Solomon in 1972 and then not again until 2016 (at Chicago’s Poetry Foundation) — is now being published in book form by Siglio Press. Who, really, can resist New York City in the 1970s — the elongated yellow taxis, shop signs and hot-dog vendors, the World Trade Center rising? Mayer captured the Big Apple before the gloss, before Starbucks and bank branches colonized the streets and artists and writers fled, first for the other boroughs, then for other cities entirely. But “Memory” is first and foremost a deeply personal exercise in observation, its pages filled with shopping lists, friends, interiors of diners, evidence of trips upstate, breakfasts, trees, a shaggy-haired lover. (There’s even an analog selfie.) Seen in another light, the project seems to anticipate the way we think about representing life today, whether we’re sharing snippets of our days on Instagram or unpolished fragments of thought on Twitter. Mayer, who became the director of the St. Mark’s Poetry Project in the early 1980s, was a rebel of form who refused to see life as a continuous, unspooling narrative filled with straightforward meanings. In her thoughts and images, we find an immersion in quotidian minutiae, synecdoche for a lost era that feels almost eerily contemporary. $45, sigliopress.com.

View This

Paul McCarthy’s Alpine Sketches

Left: Paul McCarthy’s “A&E, EVA, Santa Anita session” (2020). Right: the artist’s performance still “A&E Drawing Session, Santa Anita” (2020).Left: photo by Damon McCarthy. All images: © Paul McCarthy. Courtesy of the artist and Hauser & Wirth

By M.H. Miller

The artist Paul McCarthy is currently the subject of two shows, one online at Hauser & Wirth, and another at the exhibition space Tarmak 22 in Gstaad, the resort town in the Swiss Alps. These are, in many ways, ideal locations for this artist, who has always had a heightened awareness of detail and context. (On a recent Zoom call to discuss these shows, McCarthy sat in a mostly unadorned room, the only remarkable feature of which was a wooden cutout of Santa Claus, propped up against the wall behind him; McCarthy, with his big white beard, shared a certain resemblance.) As an early adopter of video-based art, he seemed to predict the random, frenetic qualities of a mind poisoned by the internet several decades before the fact, and McCarthy has often darkly satirized Alpine culture and German fairy tales, Hollywood’s appropriation of both and the fascist tendencies of all three. The online show, in particular, functions a little like a summary of McCarthy’s stylistic quirks. Nominally an exhibition of drawings, its contents in fact resulted from a series of improvisational performances McCarthy began filming with the actress Lilith Stangenberg in early 2020: “drawing sessions,” as the artist refers to them, while the two were in character as versions of Adolf Hitler and Eva Braun for McCarthy’s new film project, called simply “A&E.” The results are messy, uncomfortable, confrontational and ultimately fascinating — convincing evidence that, even in the supposedly simple gesture of making a mark on a piece of paper, McCarthy is never as simple or straightforward as he might seem. hauserwirth.com.

From T’s Instagram

#TArtIssue: The Story of Ruth Asawa

Ruth Asawa as a young artist in 1954, surrounded by several of her wire sculptures, which she began making in the late 1940s.Nat Farbman/The Life Picture Collection/Getty Images

Seven years after her death, the Japanese-American sculptor Ruth Asawa has finally made her mark. Following the time she and her family spent in a series of internment camps, Asawa attended Black Mountain College and made work that incorporated the use of negative space, beauty in repetition and a deep awareness of the material at hand. She often worked with coiled lines of metal wire that she wove into undulating, biomorphic shapes that hung from the wood rafters of her house in San Francisco’s Noe Valley. For six years, these works were also shown at New York’s Peridot gallery and were acquired by top collectors including the Museum of Modern Art, the architect Philip Johnson and Mary Rockefeller. Asawa’s last show with Peridot, however, was in 1958, and for some time afterward, she had all but disappeared from the New York art world. Today, Asawa (@ruthasawaofficial) has returned as a subject of rediscovery — someone who has been given the kind of international recognition that was owed during her lifetime, and whose legacy reflects both her own contributions as an artist as well as the singular path she forged for herself as the child of immigrants, a woman and an Asian-American. Read the full story by @Thessaly La Force on tmagazine.com, and see more highlights of T’s art issue, “True Believers,” on our Instagram.

A picture caption in last week’s newsletter misstated where the design firm Stitch is based. It is in South Carolina, not North Carolina.

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On Tech: Health care comes to us

Technology doesn’t have to cure the coronavirus to be an enabler for good.

Health care comes to us

Daniel Zender

The pandemic, an unemployment surge and unrest over racial inequality have made more Americans feel isolated, anxious or depressed. Psychological distress could prove temporary, but the hurt and the ripple effects are serious nevertheless.

Now here’s some good news. Benjamin F. Miller, a psychologist and chief strategy officer for Well Being Trust, a national foundation focusing on mental and spiritual health, told me something hopeful: In part because of technology, this moment in history contains the makings of more accessible and effective mental health care for everyone.

“Probably one of the most profound impacts that technology had in the pandemic is that the care now comes to the patients,” Dr. Miller said.

He’s talking about the many physicians, therapists and clinicians shifting to seeing patients by web video or over the telephone. Not everyone loves health care through a computer screen, but Dr. Miller said it has removed barriers that prevented many people from accessing mental health services.

Care can now be just a FaceTime call away, and U.S. insurers quickly made changes that allowed more people to get help on their terms.

I’ve been thinking about how peripheral technology has felt these last few months. Sure, we’ve relied on technology for work, school and staying in touch, but brave essential workers, capable political and public health leaders and effective institutions matter more than anything else.

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Dr. Miller reminded me that technology doesn’t have to cure the coronavirus to be an enabler for good. He said he believed that technology has an important role to play in what he hoped would become a larger restructuring of American health care.

But first, some capable people and institutions had to cut red tape to let technology in.

Since the start of the pandemic, Medicare and many private health insurers have changed policies to reimburse practitioners for patient visits by phone or web video at somewhere close to the payment rate of in-person visits.

Privacy rules were relaxed to let people use familiar web video services like Skype and not only medical-specific video sites. (Yes, this comes with a possible risk to patient information.)

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Telemedicine for all types of health care remains a tiny fraction of patient care, but many more people and providers have tried and liked it. Nearly every major mental health organization is pressing policymakers to make those temporary changes permanent, Dr. Miller said.

Technology is not a panacea, Dr. Miller stressed. (Reader: May you remember this sentence always, about everything in tech.) Lack of internet access or discomfort with technology still holds some people back from telemedicine, Dr. Miller said. And tech doesn’t resolve the stigma that can be associated with mental health services or close gaps in health insurance coverage.

But Dr. Miller said technology’s role in mental health during the pandemic is a gift that he hoped would be the start of work to better structure mental health services, integrate them into the rest of health care and ensure they get enough resources to help everyone.

Dr. Miller’s essential message wasn’t about technology at all. Because so many of us have felt stress and isolation recently, he hoped that we can now talk openly about the importance of healthy minds and bodies, and better understand people who live with mental distress.

“Now that we know how hard this is, I hope we have empathy,” he said.

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TV commercials and the maturation of tech

If you want one statistic that shows technology companies’ maturation from iconoclastic underdogs to the mainstream, look at advertising.

Amazon now spends more money on promoting itself in television commercials, internet ads and other spots than any company in the United States, according to an analysis of 2019 advertising trends by the publication AdAge. Google was No. 6. (I first read about this in the Axios Media Trends newsletter.)

Companies that make physical devices, like Apple, used advertising for years to shape our perceptions. But until quite recently, Amazon and many of America’s upstart internet companies thought advertising was kinda tacky.

“Advertising is the price you pay for having an unremarkable product or service,” the Amazon chief executive Jeff Bezos quipped more than 10 years ago. Last year, Bezos said that he had changed his mind.

Why the change? Well, technology is becoming just like every other product. There’s not much difference between a Ford and Toyota pickup truck, so those companies know they must persuade you to feel warm and fuzzy about their model. Picking an app or an online shopping company likewise has become a lot about picking one that makes you feel good.

And as tech companies wanted us to turn over more of our habits and lives to them, they needed to pitch themselves harder. Amazon, for example, spends a lot of money advertising its movies, internet TV gadgets and voice assistants to turn our homes into all-Amazon zones.

There’s a similar pattern to tech companies’ spending on policy persuasion. They used to consider lobbying unseemly or unimportant, and now America’s tech powers are among the country’s biggest lobbyists.

There you go. Tech is not a special species anymore. It is big and everywhere, and that means the industry’s leading lights spend a lot of money to stay on top.

Our newsletter cousins at DealBook are hosting a reader conference call featuring David E. Sanger, The New York Times’s national security correspondent, discussing the tug of war over technology between the United States and China. To hear from David and ask him your questions, you can R.S.V.P. here. The call is tomorrow (July 23) at 11 a.m. Eastern.

Before we go …

  • Tackling a dangerous conspiracy: Twitter announced a series of sweeping actions intended to remove or hide more accounts and material related to QAnon, a movement promoting baseless conspiracies that has proliferated on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter, my colleague Kate Conger reported. People who believe in QAnon’s intricate and false theories have committed violence and harassed people online, and internet companies have been under pressure to do more to combat the spread of this and other harmful material. Facebook is also preparing to take similar steps to limit the reach of QAnon content, Kate wrote.
  • The criticism is coming from inside the house: The Times tech reporter Karen Weise writes about Tim Bray, a respected technologist and Amazon executive who recently quit the company and became one of its highest-profile critics. Bray is using the mind-set and tools of Amazon — including the intense, six-page internal memos called PRFAQs — to articulate how and why he believes Amazon hurts competition and should be broken apart.
  • Big tech versus the big scourge of climate change: Somini Sengupta and Veronica Penney of The New York Times walk through what Apple, Microsoft and other large tech companies are doing to combat planet-warming carbon emissions, and where their rhetoric might fall short of their actions. (I’ll have more in tomorrow’s newsletter about technology and climate change.)

Hugs to this

These six ducklings bobbing in the water are giving me joy.

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