2020年9月16日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A new 1970s-inspired Texas hotel, South Korean artisanal objects — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Hotel Magdalena Opens in Austin, Texas

The lobby of Hotel Magdalena.Nick Simonite

By Kurt Soller

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Though the Bunkhouse hospitality group already has three hotels near Austin’s new Music Lane complex, in the South Congress neighborhood, they’re often booked up. Their newest property, Hotel Magdalena, which opens this month, should help alleviate that problem, especially once people start traveling again. Built from the ground up and in partnership with the San Antonio-based firm Lake Flato, the Magdalena is the largest Bunkhouse property yet — with 89 rooms in total, each decorated with a 1970s sensibility and colorful Spanish tiles. The architects prefabricated timber panels off-site that were then constructed to make four distinct, treehouse-like buildings connected by various walkways and courtyards. In the center sits a swimming pool inspired by Texan lakeside culture; the hotel’s restaurant will feature an open-fire grill and rotisserie headed by Jeffrey Hundelt, the former culinary director for Austin’s Launderette and Fresa’s Chicken al Carbon. Adding to its local charm, the 14-acre plot was originally home to the Terrace Motor Hotel, which was purchased in the late ’70s by Willie Nelson, who converted part of it to the Austin Opry House. In a similar way, says Bunkhouse’s chief executive officer, Amar Lalvani, the Magdalena represents “inspired design, connection to the place and the value of community, culture and music.” Rooms start at $275 per night, 1101 Music Lane, Austin, Texas, hotelmagdalena.com.

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4 Clean and Voluminous Mascaras

Clockwise from top left: Róen Cake Mascara, $28, roenbeauty.com; Saie Mascara 101, $24, saiehello.com; Kosas The Big Clean Volumizing + Lash Care Mascara, $26, kosas.com; Westman Atelier Eye Love You Mascara, $62, westman-atelier.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

Notoriously clumpy and quick to dry out, clean mascaras can often be a disappointing purchase. Luckily, a slew of new options are available for those wanting to avoid ingredients commonly used in mascara — such as parabens, silicones or mineral oil — but unwilling to sacrifice feathery, voluminous lashes. Named for its ability to be caked onto lashes without shedding, Róen’s Cake Mascara is infused with olive oil so that lashes stay moisturized throughout the day. Mascara 101 from Saie is ideal for a natural, daytime option and has a silky texture that conditions lashes without flaking, thanks to shea butter and beeswax. If drama is what you’re after, the makeup artist Gucci Westman’s Eye Love You Mascara coats lashes in a deep black formula while the oversized and densely-packed brush curls, volumizes and separates eyelashes. Created after the brand’s founder Sheena Yaitanes experienced lash loss while pregnant, Kosas’ The Big Clean Volumizing + Lash Care Mascara contains provitamin B5 and castor oil, ingredients normally used in hair care that strengthen and support natural hair growth.

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Photographer Nick Waplington’s Visual Diary

Left: Aidan and Johanna at the Beastie Boys, Brixton Academy, 1994. Right: Rotterdam, 1992.Nick Waplington

By Samuel Rutter

T Contributor

Throughout his career, the artist and photographer Nick Waplington has shown an uncanny knack for being in the right place at the right time — whether that’s meant living next door to Graeme Park, a pioneering D.J. of the U.K.’s early rave scene, or having a chance encounter with Alexander McQueen that led to Waplington documenting the designer’s final collection. “Either I’ve been lucky or I’ve had a kind of sixth sense for whatever’s going on,” Waplington said from his London studio, just a few days before the release of “Anaglypta 1980-2020,” a visual diary spanning countries and decades. The book opens with black-and-white images showing how a young Waplington passed days and nights with friends — marching against Thatcher’s government or attending post-punk shows. By around 1985, he was living part time in America and, having been influenced by the critic and curator Sally Eauclaire, had shifted to larger format color photography. Waplington’s pictures — 520 selected from thousands — are at once careful and spontaneous, evidence of the commonplace moments of calamitous eras. Glimpse neighbors romping in a secluded, sun-dappled bend of the River Lea in Hackney or the interiors of long-gone underground nightclubs, as well as notable selections from his landmark show, “Living Room” (1991), which was shot at a public-housing complex in Nottingham. Available for pre-order for $59, jesusblue.co.uk.

Covet This

Artisanal Objects Curated by Choeunsook

Soungchuel Park’s blue dosirak and Eunyoung Kwon’s eggshell bowl from the Atomix and Choeunsook collaboration.Jinah Ree

By Kurt Soller

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This week, the husband-and-wife duo Junghyun and Ellia Park, who run the upscale Korean restaurant Atomix and the more casual Atoboy in New York City, are launching an online marketplace in collaboration with Choeunsook, the revered art and design gallery in Seoul that represents several of the country’s top artisans and has never before sold items internationally. Working with the ceramist Eunyoung Kwon, the glassware artist Jeongwon Lee and Soungchuel Park, who repurposes metal and other recycled materials, the restaurant is offering a small selection of handmade, limited-edition pieces. I’m particularly drawn to Park’s brass containers — inspired by dosirak, the Korean version of a bento box, and fashioned from old plates — as well as his wood-and-brass speaker, a rudimentary, non-powered audio device that has a slot at its base where you can slip in a smartphone to amplify its sound. atomixchoeunsook.online.

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Shield Sunglasses as the Ultimate Fall Accessory

Clockwise from top left: Balenciaga, $490, balenciaga.com; Loewe, $430, loewe.com; Mykita Helmut Lang, $555, mykita.com; Fenty, $420, fenty.com; Dior, $545, farfetch.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Gage Daughdrill

The month of September heralds the final days of summer, where the sun lingers and the heat — at least for those of us in New York City — isn’t too overwhelming. With the change of the seasons comes the inevitable sartorial shift, as we begin to phase out our summer looks (light, carefree) for autumnal ones (layers and more layers). Consider trying out a new pair of sunglasses while you’re at it. Shield styles — that is, sunglasses with one continuous lens or a strong visor-like structure — are the latest trend to take hold. My favorite are a pair from Fenty, whose denim inserts complement the bold frame. For a more subdued option, you could try Mykita’s four-lensed style for Helmut Lang, made with a lightweight stainless-steel frame. If you prefer an oversize look, Loewe has you covered with a visor bar that extends up past the temple, while Dior and Balenciaga offer similar options that take a more minimal but equally stylish approach.

From T’s Instagram

#TCookingClass: Beth Bugdaycay

Beth Bugdaycay with her mother-in-law’s green beans.United Labor

When, at 22, the jewelry designer Beth Bugdaycay traveled to Istanbul to meet her new mother-in-law, she arrived with a request: that her husband’s mother teach her a few family dishes. “I think sharing a family recipe with another person is very personal,” says Beth, who co-founded the jewelry company Foundrae with her husband, Murat, in 2015. “Learning hers was a way to show that I respected her family and her culture, and that I was committed to keeping those traditions alive with her son in New York.” In a video for T Magazine, highlighted here, she makes a version of the Turkish green beans that her mother-in-law taught her, and that the designer now teaches us. To see more, watch the full video and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: ‘Good enough’ rules the world

The success of TikTok and Netflix shows that if you have enough eyeballs, mediocrity is totally OK.

‘Good enough’ rules the world

Delcan & Company

During a pandemic, it’s great to have Amazon, Netflix and TikTok at our fingertips. And their success shows that good enough is plenty good.

Maybe you’ve heard that old saying: Content is king. The idea is that must-have, exceptional entertainment, information and technology rule the land. I’m not sure this was ever true, and it’s definitely not now. What rules instead is “good enough.”

Amazon might not have that one thing you want to buy, but it’ll have five other things that are perfectly fine substitutes. Good enough is why I recently sat through multiple episodes of a bad old television series. Good enough is why Apple is combining multiple not-must-have digital services into one. Netflix, TikTok and YouTube are powerhouses of the good enough economy.

They have a small amount of great stuff and lots of perfectly fine stuff, and they package it in a convenient and affordable way. That’s useful.

The power of good enough is underappreciated, I think, because it seems like an insult. It’s admitting that mediocrity is OK. But it is!

The good enough economy does, however, speak to the balance of power between those who create stuff and the gatekeepers that distribute it.

The internet made it easier for people everywhere to show the world the music they created, the cat toys they made in their spare time or the entertainment they shot on an iPhone. But because anyone can create anything, it’s hard for any one thing to get attention.

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That’s why companies that can assemble mass numbers of people in one place — Facebook, Amazon, YouTube, Netflix and others — have become our kings. They are Harry Potter-like sorting hats organizing the sea of entertainment, information and products.

If you draw enough eyeballs to one place, each individual movie hit, online celebrity or star video gamer matters less. If the video app TikTok didn’t have Charli D’Amelio, one of its biggest draws, some of her fans would freak out. But most of them would be happy with everything else that’s still there.

Did “Tiger King” get a lot of attention and eyeballs on Netflix because it’s amazing TV, or because Netflix made it front and center to its 200 million subscribers? When one of the world’s most popular video game stars couldn’t thrive outside a hugely popular video game website, it showed that the companies that assemble an audience can outweigh the draw of a superlative star.

I don’t want to underplay the draw of superstars and must-have programming. The National Football League might single-handedly be keeping the American television industry alive, for example. Some individuals are singular content kings.

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But mostly, for companies that assemble big numbers of people and make it easy for all of us, the aggregate wins over the individual. A lot of good enough is better than a little perfect that is most likely hard to find or costs extra.

The funny thing about online life is that two poles exist. The good enough economy sits opposite the “passion economy,” which Ben Smith, the media columnist for The New York Times, wrote about recently. Digital services like Patreon and Substack give musicians, podcasters, drawing teachers or newsletter writers a chance to make a living from a relatively small number of passionate fans.

So content does rule, sometimes. And so do the websites that amass an audience of billions with stuff that’s good enough.

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Apple’s midlife crisis

Companies don’t just try to sell us what we need or want. They also try to sell us what they need us to buy.

On Tuesday, Apple talked up a dizzying array of products, including new and upgraded versions of the Apple Watch, iPad and combinations of monthly subscriptions to things like Apple’s music service and new Apple-created virtual fitness classes.

Apple now has approximately 1,031 things for sale — you know, approximately many of them added in the last few years.

To understand why, you need to know that Apple is having a midlife crisis.

Popularizing the smartphone was a gold mine for Apple. It still is. But the mine is slowly running out of gold. Around the world, smartphones are becoming basic necessities like refrigerators, and fewer people are excited to rush out every year or two and buy another $1,000 iPhone.

This is fine. But it’s not fine for Apple. This company pretends it doesn’t care about money, but yeah it does. And companies like Apple have to make more money year after year, which is harder to do when the gold mine starts to run out of gold.

So if Apple struggles to sell more of what had been a relatively small number of precious products, one solution is to make way more products. Something for everyone.

That may help us understand why Apple until 2018 typically released one new iPhone model each year — and it now has four. It’s why over the last few years, Apple also started to make television series, sold news and video game subscriptions, offered a credit card, pitched a home speaker and is experimenting with combining its online subscriptions.

A lot of this stuff might be great — or (COUGH, COUGH) good enough. And we want companies to come up with new ideas. But when you see these products, also imagine Apple whispering, “Please buy more things from us.”

Before we go …

  • Yoga teachers versus a conspiracy theory: Some yoga instructors and other people interested in wellness are concerned that the QAnon conspiracy theory is gaining traction in their community. My colleague Kevin Roose explained in a new feature called “Daily Distortions” that QAnon supporters using the language and sensibility of a New Age healing workshop helped broaden the conspiracy that falsely claims that a cabal of satanic pedophiles and cannibals runs the world and wants to undermine President Trump.
  • It’s easy to snark, but Kim K is powerful: Celebrities including Kim Kardashian West and Leonardo DiCaprio said they would protest what they see as inaction by Facebook against misinformation and hate speech by not posting on Instagram or Facebook for 24 hours. An organizer said this celebrity freeze was one step in a broader pressure campaign against Facebook, wrote my colleague Kellen Browning. Others called it an ineffective performative gesture.
  • Maybe singular stars do top “good enough”? My colleagues have a fun and thoughtful set of short essays all about how the internet fractured and remade what it means to be famous. Academics and geologists are famous. Nail artists and hedgehogs are stars. And you can vote for the most relevant celebrity. (Academics are leading right now.)

Hugs to this

We all — including this raccoon — deserve to hug a teddy bear. (Thanks to my colleague Liam Stack for finding this one. Yes, there is literally a hug in today’s “Hugs to this.”)

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