2020年10月28日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Ballet flats, colorful rugs — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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A Grand Hotel Opens in the Heart of Kyoto

Left: the entrance to the Mitsui Kyoto lobby, with interiors by André Fu. Right: one of two Onsen Suite guest rooms, each of which features a private natural hot spring bath.Courtesy of the Mitsui Kyoto hotel

By Sydney Rende

T Contributor

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At the heart of Kyoto is Nijo Castle, which served as the seat of the Japanese empire. But just across the street is a property that for centuries housed a different sort of dynasty, that of the Mitsui family, long filled with prominent businesspeople. Next month, the property will open to the public in the form of the 161-room Mitsui Kyoto hotel. With a pair of restaurants helmed by esteemed chefs — Tetsuya Asano, formerly of L’Espadon at the Ritz Paris, and Shozo Sugano — it offers guests an undoubtedly sumptuous experience, but the idea was to preserve a homey feel. Lodgers enter via the restored Kajiimiya Gate, built during the Genroku era (1688-1704), and can attend morning meditation in the family’s former parlor, with walls lined with hinoki cypress and a view of the garden pool and weeping cherry tree. The bedrooms are modeled after traditional Japanese tearooms, with birchwood flooring and plush, low furnishings. More lounging, perhaps following a private tour of Nijo Castle, can be done at the hotel’s underground onsen. Rooms start at around $875 per night, 284 Nijoaburanokoji-cho, Aburano-koji St. Nijo-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, Japan, hotelthemitsui.com

Read This

Intimate Party Pictures of Joan Didion and Others

Anjelica Huston and Robert Graham’s wedding at the Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles, May 22, 1992.Camilla McGrath

By Thessaly La Force

Born in Paris in 1925, Camilla Pecci-Blunt was the youngest child (along with her twin, Graziella) of a wealthy and aristocratic Italian-American family. She picked up a camera at an early age and began taking photographs at the various events to which she was invited, including lunches at Villa Reale di Marlia, the Pecci-Blunt estate in Lucca, Italy, and the wedding between the Fiat chairman Gianni Agnelli and Princess Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto. Desirous of a less conventional existence, Camilla eventually married, at 37 — much to the dissatisfaction of her family — a handsome and charismatic American from Wisconsin named Earl McGrath, who was six years her junior. Together, the couple embarked on a glamorous life — moving between the worlds of film, rock ’n’ roll and art — that grew to include dinners, parties, after-parties, weddings and vacations with Mick Jagger, Joan Didion, Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly, Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg, Sonny Mehta, Anjelica Huston and many others. At every instant, McGrath was never without her camera (first, a Roliflex; then, starting in the ’60s, a Nikon). McGrath died in 2007, but her meticulously organized photographs are finally being published this month by Knopf in “Face to Face,” with accompanying essays by friends of the couple: Fran Lebowitz, Harrison Ford, Griffin Dunne, Vincent Fremont and Jann Wenner (as well as an introduction by the journalist Andrea di Robilant). Because McGrath’s photographs were never used for any kind of publicity (and her subjects were her family and friends), there is a marvelous sense of candor and intimacy to them, which capture, in their totality, an incredibly full and joyful life. $75; penguinrandomhouse.com.

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Wear This

Six Playful Ballet Flats For Fall

Clockwise from top left: Simone Rocha, matchesfashion.com. Maison Margiela, farfetch.com. Gucci, gucci.com. Jil Sander, mytheresa.com. Loewe, net-a-porter.com. J.W. Anderson, jwanderson.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Angela Koh

Unlike ballet itself, the origin of the ballet flat is imprecise. But we do know that in the 1940s, the American dance apparel manufacturer Capezio was commissioned by the popular sportswear designer Claire McCardell to create a collection of ballet flats, with the intention of transforming the dainty looking dance slipper into more of an everyday style. Not too long after, in 1956, the French ballet apparel company Repetto designed a pair of flats for Brigitte Bardot. Ever since, fashion has maintained a fond attachment to this simple accessory, at once elegant and practical. Recently, a handful of designers found ways to update the wardrobe staple once again. For her latest collection, which was inspired by Ireland’s remote Aran Islands, Simone Rocha mixed pearls, tweed, shells and chains in a variety of pieces, including an off-white faux fur Mary Jane with a strand of faux pearls that stretch across the toe line. Loewe produced a soft leather, high-throated flat embellished with an oversize flowerlike pearl broach. Meanwhile, Maison Margiela updated its famous Tabi shoe (the Japanese split-toe style) with metallic spray paint. And Gucci mixed gold and silver hardware with a youthful floral print and pointed toe. While heels aren’t likely to get much use as we head into another season of social distancing, a lively flat always comes in handy, and might even add a spring to your step.

Eat This

Conceptual Comfort at London’s Ikoyi Restaurant

The Ikoyi restaurant interior dining room.John Carey

By Samuel Anderson

T Contributor

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Amid the ebbs and flows of Covid-era fine dining, chef Jeremy Chan of London’s pan-continental restaurant Ikoyi has been forced to adapt. Known for his hyper-seasonal tasting menu, Chan introduced user-friendly à la carte options like fried chicken this summer. “I wanted to reach a new audience while increasing our covers,” says Chan, a detail-obsessed Princeton graduate who was born and raised in Northern England. But the city’s recently imposed 10 p.m. curfew limited Chan’s choose-your-own-adventure format. “We’d have half the restaurant doing the tasting menu and the other ordering à la carte, and two hours to do it,” he says. After some consideration, he and his five-person kitchen reprioritized prix fixe, making flexible ordering only possible before 6 p.m. Those skeptical of eating before sundown should know that the revised à la carte program serves as a kind of greatest-hits reel of Chan’s year in à la carte experimentation: One example is Ikyoki’s creamed spinach — a new early-bird exclusive and a dark-horse favorite of Chan’s. “I’m obsessed with it,” he says of the updated classic — a blend of naturally salty Japanese spinach, brown butter garlic confit, mascarpone and “crystal-clear” mushroom oil, served with caramelized, caviar-topped veal nuggets. “It’s a very pure dish, and I think it’s going to stay on the menu for a long time.” Dinner is served from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday; 1 St. James’s Market, St. James’s, London; ikoyilondon.com.

Covet This

Moroccan-Style Rugs Inspired by Midcentury Art

Colin King for Beni Rugs, style 001 (left) and 007 (right).Stephen Kent Johnson 

By Alice Newell-Hanson

The stylist and designer Colin King is known for creating pared-back but atmospheric interiors that feel, perhaps above all, serene. And by his own admission, he has long been nervous about using color in his work. “It’s very abstract,” he says, “Every hue has a lot of properties — and then you put furniture on top of it.” Yet when the textile company Beni Rugs invited him to collaborate on a collection of its thick hand-knotted floor coverings, he decided to use the opportunity to experiment with a palette more vibrant than his trademark moody grays and off-whites — one partly inspired by a trip he took to Morocco last year with the brand’s founders, Robert Wright and Tiberio Lobo-Navia. Released this month, the 11 designs — which range from striped compositions of ocher, aubergine and navy to intersecting fields of terra-cotta and vermilion — are all made to order in custom sizes by artisans in the Atlas Mountains, who complete every step of the process, including rearing sheep for wool, and dyeing and weaving the yarn, entirely by hand. But if the rugs’ burned oranges and earthy yellows recall the landscapes of their home country, the collection’s evocative juxtapositions of color are indebted to a source closer to home for King: the work of the American Abstract Expressionists Barnett Newman, Mark Rothko and Clyfford Still. Their paintings, to which the designer has always been drawn, inspired him to temper the collection’s warmer, sun-baked shades with an array of deep, inky blues. “I ended up adding more colors,” he explains, as if to his own surprise, “but I think I created a spectrum that feels calm in a different way.” From $545, benirugs.com

From T’s Instagram

The Restorative Benefits of a Tea Garden

Here, tea ingredients of rose, chamomile and lemon verbena are shown in their natural, harvested and dried states.Fujio Emura

The tea garden — a typically modest plot dedicated to the growing of herbs and flowers for steeping — has its roots in ancient herbalist traditions and helped lay the foundation for modern botany. According to “The Gardener’s Companion to Medicinal Plants,” a 2016 guide to home remedies, the study of herbal medicine can be traced back 5,000 years, to the Sumerians of southern Mesopotamia. Now, in this time of uncertainty, as we cleave to small, controllable comforts, the idea of the medicinal tea garden is taking root once again. Easy to cultivate on a windowsill or balcony, or in any garden bed, these plots of herbs and edible flowers offer a chance to reconnect with nature, and a balm for our collective anxieties. “Herbalists have long talked about the value of growing your own plants,” says Karen Rose of Sacred Vibes Apothecary in Brooklyn, “and with a tea garden you can propagate plants that will actively improve your health.” Since the pandemic hit the U.S. in March, she has seen a dramatic rise in homegrown plants, such as lemon balm, mint and chamomile, which are thought to relieve stress and help regulate disrupted sleep patterns. Go to T’s Instagram to discover Aimee Farrell’s step-by-step guide on growing brew-friendly plants at home, and using them to make infusions that soothe and restore.

Correction: Last week’s newsletter misidentified the location of an art installation by Anna Sew Hoy; it was at the Aspen Art Museum in Aspen, Colo., not at Compound in Long Beach, Calif. It also misspelled the surname of one of the founders of Gossamer; he is David Weiner, not Reiner. It also misstated the room rate for the Chloe hotel; rooms start at $319, not $176.

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On Tech: We need policy, not WrestleMania

Lawmakers could debate an important law that affects speech on the internet. Or they could yell.

We need policy, not WrestleMania

Miriam Persand

One of the central questions for our elected representatives is how to exercise effective oversight over technology.

Some days, like when lawmakers ask whether the tech giants have become too powerful, I feel hopeful about government officials’ ability to do this. Right now … I’m not so sure.

The Senate on Wednesday is holding a hearing ostensibly about whether to revise or undo a bedrock law of the internet that made possible sites like Facebook and YouTube by providing a limited legal shield for what users post. It is in principle a worthwhile debate about how U.S. laws should balance protecting people from online horrors with providing room for expression online.

But the hearing is mostly a pointless circus.

I could already tell on Tuesday when a tweet from Senator Ted Cruz, Republican of Texas, portrayed the congressional hearing as a “free speech showdown” — essentially a verbal WrestleMania match with Twitter’s chief executive billed as the baddie and Senator Cruz as the hero. This is not the hallmark of a serious exercise in policymaking.

Somewhere in this waste of taxpayers’ dollars and our time is a meaty policy issue. The 1996 internet law under debate, Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, allowed websites like Facebook, YouTube and Twitter to exist and grow without being sued out of existence for what users posted.

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All kinds of people are now asking — for different reasons — whether the law needs revision. Many Democrats believe Section 230 lets sites like Facebook and YouTube avoid responsibility for incendiary, violent or misleading things that people post. Many Republicans — sometimes misrepresenting the law — say these companies should be more hands-off with what people can say online to avoid what they view as partisan censorship.

The heart of the matter is trying to balance competing interests. Section 230 does allow small websites to flourish without going broke defending defamation lawsuits. And it also gives huge internet sites an enormous amount of unchecked power. Can lawmakers preserve the good parts of the law while slicing out the bad parts?

There’s not a simple solution, but the job of U.S. Senators is to tackle complex problems in nuanced ways. Their job is not to stage a WrestleMania.

I won’t pick on Republicans only.

Democrats in the Senate also yelled that their counterparts’ decision to hold this hearing so close to Election Day was a way to make internet companies scared of aggressively fighting election-related misinformation. They’re not wrong, but again, it didn’t make for a worthwhile policy discussion.

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The internet executives, including Mark Zuckerberg of Facebook and Jack Dorsey of Twitter, kept suggesting that they don’t referee online speech and that computers — not humans — make decisions about what people see online. This is also false. Everything you see or don’t see on sites like Facebook, Twitter and YouTube are there because people at those companies made a choice. Humans program computers, after all. And they do referee speech.

If you want to better understand the important issues at play, I posted a Twitter thread of articles that discuss the trade-offs of this internet law and that suggest helpful ideas to reform it. Even Zuckerberg is almost begging (somewhat disingenuously) for the government to write laws laying out what should be classified as dangerous and impermissible online speech.

Senator Cory Gardner, Republican of Colorado, got at the tricky balancing act during the hearing. “I don’t like the idea of unelected elites in San Francisco or Silicon Valley deciding whether my speech is permissible on their platform,” he said, “but I like even less the idea of unelected Washington, D.C., bureaucrats trying to enforce some kind of politically neutral content moderation.”

Good point. But then what is the solution? The problem is that lawmakers aren’t showing that they’re grappling with the law. Instead, they’re mostly just shouting.

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YOUR LEAD

Send us your election questions

With Election Day less than a week away, we’re monitoring how tech companies like Facebook and Twitter are handling the surge of information (and misinformation) related to voting and results on their sites. What if a false voting rumor goes viral or a candidate declares victory before all of the votes are cast?

We want to hear what you’re curious or concerned about as Americans vote.

My Times colleagues and I will try to tackle a selection of your questions in the coming days. Email us at ontech@nytimes.com and write VOTE in the subject line.

Before we go …

  • Think the internet companies are creepy? A Washington Post columnist found that political campaigns had access to thousands of pieces of information about him, including his credit score, the amount of his mortgage, telephone numbers and inferences about his hobbies. “Privacy may be a cornerstone of American liberty, but politicians on both sides of the aisle have zero problem invading it,” he wrote.
  • It wasn’t unusual for technology workers and executives to profess little interest in politics. That’s changing. Recode writes about 15 wealthy technology executives who are donating big, largely for the first time, to political candidates opposed to President Trump. And my colleagues Erin Griffith and Nathaniel Popper showed the rifts that emerged when tech executives found that they couldn’t avoid political debates inside their companies.
  • The high-stakes risk of selling on Amazon: Bloomberg News writes about a man who says Amazon falsely accused him of selling counterfeit clothing on the shopping site, destroyed his inventory and caused his retail operation to go bust. The article shows the power imbalance between Amazon and the merchants who rely on it.

Hugs to this

I had never heard of the Fotoplayer musical instrument before — it looks like a piano from your most feverish dream — and it is a chaotic, wonderful marvel. (Thanks to my colleague Dodai Stewart for tweeting this wonder.)

We want to hear from you. Tell us what you think of this newsletter and what else you’d like us to explore. You can reach us at ontech@nytimes.com.

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