2021年2月10日 星期三

The T List: Valentine’s Day Gift Guide, Part II

Dramatic bouquets, jelly cakes inspired by Sanrio — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. For this week, we've turned it into the second installment of our Valentine's Day gift guide, with recommendations from T staffers and contributors on what to give your loved ones — or yourself. Read the first edition here, and sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

DRAMATIC BLOOMS

Bouquets Assembled by Broadway Performers

Boo-Kay NYC's Grand Dame arrangement. Bouquets and kits from $75, bookaynyc.com.Rob Sutton

By Jennifer Conrad

T Contributor

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For years, Robbie Fairchild, a former New York City Ballet principal turned Broadway star, received flowers for a great performance. In 2017, when he was the lead in the London production of "An American in Paris," his apartment was next to the Covent Garden Academy of Flowers, and he eagerly enrolled in a class. He found working with flowers to be therapeutic, and in the best way, not unlike dancing. "Arrangements are all about balance and movement," he says. "And you spend all this time creating something to present to the recipient." That's what happened last March, when a fan who works for a flower distributor in the Netherlands sent a large box of fresh roses and peonies to Fairchild in New York and he spun them into bouquets for health care workers. He then realized that, with theaters dark, the hobby might also be a chance to support another group in need: He launched the floral studio Boo-Kay NYC, and soon brought on Adam Perry, a fellow performer who'd assisted florists between stage gigs, along with three others with Broadway ties. The team works out of the ground floor of Fairchild's Upper West Side duplex, which is now complete with a 5-by-5-foot walk-in refrigerator housing stems from the Netherlands and Manhattan's flower district. Fairchild hopes that Boo-Kay NYC will continue to provide a source of income — and a creative outlet — for its workers even after theaters reopen. For Valentine's Day, it's offering make-your-own arranging kits, as well as the Valentine, a bouquet with red roses, pink trumpet tulips and feathery wisps of dried eulalia. "We're really leaning into the theatricality," says Fairchild.

ON THE SCENT

Fragrances Inspired by Gambia and Sweden

Maya Njie's Tropica and Nordic Cedar scents, mayanjie.com. The fragrances can be purchased in the U.S. at Muse Experiences in New York, (212) 283-5340, and Tigerlily Perfumery in San Francisco, (415) 896-4665.Courtesy of Maya Njie

By Caitie Kelly

As a design and photography student at University of the Arts London, Maya Njie would often incorporate scent into her work, adding fragrances to her images to communicate "how a place or environment smells," she says. After graduating in 2012, she began making her own blends and launched her namesake fragrance line in 2016. Mixed in small batches and bottled by hand in a studio near Njie's home in East London, her light, unisex scents draw on her Swedish and Gambian heritage. Nordic Cedar, which has notes of patchouli and Virginian cedar wood, was influenced by the forests of her hometown, Vasteras, and also includes cardamom, an ingredient often found in Swedish cooking that Njie describes as "so ingrained in the Scandinavian way of living, I can't imagine home without it." Tobak, meanwhile, is a warm and comforting fragrance with notes of tobacco leaf, tonka, cinnamon and leather that reminds the perfumer of visiting her grandfather's apartment in Sweden as a child. Tropica is as it sounds: reminiscent of an exotic holiday, with hints of citrus, pineapple, coconut and sandalwood. And for something a bit more seasonal, this winter, Njie collaborated with the Los Angeles-based fragrance company Scent Trunk on a woody floral blend that took inspiration from Macedonia's Pelister National Park, and features earthy aromas such as those of birch leaf, orris, violet leaf and tree moss. While the fragrances' inspirations are personal to their creator, though, the scents are just as transporting for wearers.

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SWEET TREATS

Homemade Jelly Cakes That Evoke Hello Kitty

Left: Nunchi's Rosey Raspberry jelly cheesecake with edible pearls, and an Eternal bouquet from Brrch, $200, instagram.com; Right: Nunchi's Dome jelly cake, $150; eatnunchi.com.Lexie Park

By Thessaly La Force

The Nunchi cakes jiggle and wobble. They come in childish colors from slime green to pastel pink, and feature decorative fruit and nature motifs. This is the wildly inventive and Asian-inspired work of Lexie Park, the Korean-American food artist, who, after the pandemic started, began sharing her homemade jelly cakes (made entirely out of agar, which is derived from algae, and vegan; her jelly cheesecakes are made with gelatin) with friends in Los Angeles and on Instagram. "It just picked up exponentially," she says of her fledgling business, which she officially started in 2015. "Everyone started to want to treat themselves, and they would message me, asking for desserts." And so Park has remained busy, producing some 200 slippery confections herself a month, as well as making the desserts for the designer Humberto Leon's new Eagle Rock restaurant, Chifa, and developing a soon-to-be-launched home and cook-wear line. "It will look like if Animal Crossing, Cooking Mama and Sanrio had a baby," she says with a laugh. The name Nunchi comes from a Korean word that isn't easy to translate. "Korean parents use 'nunchi' a lot when they're scolding their children. It's like common sense tied with emotional intelligence. Have you ever seen an Asian home where everyone is helping in the kitchen? That's nunchi." For Valentine's Day, Park has teamed up with the floral studio Brrch Flowers, meaning one can now buy a special pairing of a Rosey Raspberry cheesecake with an Eternal bouquet of preserved grasses and fern with an assortment of bows and beads, through Nunchi's Instagram (for pick up in Los Angeles), and 20 percent of proceeds will go to FreeFrom, a nonprofit dedicated to fighting gender-based violence.

UNCOMMON OBJECTS

Limited-Edition Plates Made From Fused Glass

A selection of limited-edition plates by Fabien Cappello, from Hem's collaboration with Modern Design Review. Price upon request, hem.com.Adam Wiseman

By Michael Snyder

T Contributor

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About four years ago, the French industrial designer Fabien Cappello started experimenting with off-cuts of brightly colored glass that had been lying around his Mexico City studio, fusing the oddly shaped pieces in an oven to craft three-dimensional studies in pigment and process. The technique quickly became one of many in Cappello's ever-expanding wheelhouse, and last year, when the British magazine Modern Design Review tapped the designer, now based in Guadalajara, to produce a limited run of decorative objects for its fourth annual collaboration with the Swedish design brand Hem, he immediately turned back to those initial creations. The result is a series of 15 delicately curved plates in shades of lilac, sage and aquamarine, jeweled with opaque geometric forms in school-bus yellow, molten tangerine and luminescent charcoal gray. The pieces, which might function as fruit bowls or simply as beautiful objets d'art, suggest broken shards of pottery gone radioactive, and are reminiscent of the mosaics of shattered tiles found in thresholds, stairways and floors across Mexico. Fused glass is a relatively new technique here, the designer says, "mostly used for decorative crosses, picture frames, things like that." But like so much of Cappello's work, these plates look less to handicrafts than to the country's rich tradition of reuse and reinvention, playing with the boundaries between artisanal and industrial, utilitarian and decorative, and perhaps erasing those lines altogether.

HOME CINEMA

A Short Film for a Long Year

Stills from the film "Sincerely, Erik," available to watch on vimeo.com.Naz Riahi

By Minju Pak

By now, many of us have burned through every season of any television series available. So if you're desperately searching for something different to watch or do this weekend, why not try screening a short film? "Sincerely, Erik," written and directed by the first-time filmmaker Naz Riahi, and chosen by Vimeo as one of its best films of 2020, is a love letter to New York City — and to literature. Following a lonely bookseller whose West Village shop has been forced to close temporarily because of the pandemic (the part is played by Erik DuRon, the real-life co-owner of Left Bank Books), the story explores how individuals — particularly those who are uncoupled — are navigating forced solitude. "This film required me to be vulnerable as a single New Yorker, sheltering in place," says Riahi. "I had to say out loud, 'I'm lonely,' and show that onscreen." But much like taking a long, hot bath, watching a good film can feel restorative — and even more so when you're alone.

SEEING RED

A Perfect Lipstick for Every Skin Tone

From left: L'Oréal Paris Brilliant Signature Shiny Lip Stain in Be Brilliant, $12, lorealparisusa.com. Jones Road Cool Gloss in Poppy Red, $22, jonesroadbeauty.com. Live Tinted Huestick in Origin, $24, livetinted.com. Mented Cosmetics Red Matte Lipstick in Red Carpet, $18, mentedcosmetics.com. Lisa Eldridge True Velvet Lipstick in Velvet Ribbon, $34, lisaeldridge.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

For most, this Valentine's Day won't include romantic dinners out or get-togethers with friends — but that doesn't mean we can't find small ways to celebrate. Recently, I've noticed that wearing red lipstick, if only for Zoom meetings, infinitely brightens my spirit. Finding exactly the right hue can be difficult, though. For one thing, the beauty industry has long catered primarily to those with fairer complexions, often leaving people of color to mix their own complementary shades. To remedy that, KJ Miller and Amanda E. Johnson, the founders of the New York-based Mented Cosmetics, created three different reds that each work best with a specific undertone: yellow, blue or black. To determine your optimal shade, Miller suggests referencing your most flattering jewelry. If you look best in silver pieces, you likely have a cooler complexion and should try Red Carpet, which has a bluish tinge. If you prefer gold, opt for Red and Butter, which has yellow undertones. And if in doubt, try Red Rover, a dark, berrylike shade that works well for nearly everyone. Some of my other favorite reds include Lisa Eldridge's classic Velvet Ribbon lipstick, which has a slight sheen, so lips really do look velvety, not flat; the cherry-hued Cool Gloss from Jones Road, Bobbi Brown's new makeup venture, which has a refreshing, minty scent; L'Oréal's Shiny Lip Stain, whose glossy finish makes it perfect for all-day wear; and Live Tinted's Huestick, a four-in-one product that can be used as a blush, eye shadow, lipstick and color corrector. La bise might be a thing of the past, but red lips most certainly are not.

TIMELESS FASHION

A Capsule Collection for Versatile Dressing

Looks from the Tôteme x Mytheresa collaboration, to launch Feb. 23. Pieces start around $330, mytheresa.com. Courtesy of Mytheresa

By Kate Guadagnino

It's the rare fashion editor and writer who can translate her impeccable eye into a global brand, but that's what Elin Kling did when she founded Totême with her now-husband, Karl Lindman, in 2014. The Stockholm-based line appeals to those who dislike a design twist for its own sake but are nonetheless in want of clothes that feel chic, rather than sensible or severe. To celebrate adding the brand to its offerings, the German retailer Mytheresa has partnered with Kling and Lindman on a nine-piece capsule collection that revisits some of their most iconic styles. Included are wide-leg jeans in either white or raw denim, a pale-blue cashmere cardigan with black-and-silver buttons, and a cream-colored, smocked polyester tracksuit comprising a collared button-down and tapered elastic-waist pants. "The pants could almost be an evening piece — or you could wear them to the beach with a bikini," says Tiffany Hsu, Mytheresa's fashion buying director. Her words have me looking forward to the days when I'll need to get dressed in a real way again, not least because that will mean the world has become safer. And these pieces, which telegraph optimism in their palette and the mere fact of their existence without straying too far from the comfort level to which we've grown accustomed, seem like ideal ones to wear as we anticipate re-entry.

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On Tech: Profits steer our digital future

Plus, let's do TikTok all over again?!?!

Profits steer our digital future

Dae In Chung

To help understand where our digital lives are going next, I'll steal a line from "All the President's Men": Follow the money.

Why is Spotify going big into podcasts? Because music streaming is a financial death trap and Spotify has to find something that isn't. Uber's push into delivering everything is a classic tactic: If one business isn't profitable, use it as a foundation to sell something else that is. Apple is branching into fitness class subscriptions and (maybe eventually) cars because it's trying to find a second act after the iPhone.

The companies that shape how we spend our time and money and remodel industries make choices based not only on what's compelling to us but also on what's helpful to their bottom lines.

This is not bad! Money is handy! And I'm oversimplifying companies' complex strategies. While profit motives don't explain everything, they are a useful lens to see where technology is headed and why.

To illustrate this, I'll look at two successful tech giants: Amazon and Google.

Amazon got its start in retail, where making a profit of a few pennies from each dollar of merchandise sold is considered great. Just about anything that Amazon does next is relatively more profitable than buying blenders and dog food from the manufacturers and reselling them to us.

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It's one reason that Amazon can wade into a gazillion different businesses that might not make immediate sense — even groceries, which is a skimpy profit business. It's the magic of starting life with crummy profit potential. Anything new is probably more profitable.

Google, on the other hand, got its start in digital advertising, which is basically pure profit. Just about anything it does next pales in comparison.

Even if Google doesn't make as much of a profit on each fresh dollar of sales, getting into new fields keeps the company humming and extends its technologies into new areas. That's true for Amazon, too.

But Amazon and Google's divergent profit origins create an interesting dynamic. Selling cloud-computing software to businesses generates the majority of Amazon's pretax profits. But for Google, which is in the same business and wants badly to compete with Amazon, cloud computing will never be as profitable as Google's main money machine. Does that even subtly reduce Google's incentives to get serious about this business?

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This is an issue for Apple, too. Selling an Apple car may simply not generate the same profit as it's used to. Apple is probably aiming for the luxury car market, and even the fancy car companies most likely generate lower profit margins than those of iPhones. (Seriously, Apple is really good at money.)

I don't want to be myopic about this. Apple rethinking transportation is an exciting prospect for us and could keep the company a technology leader for decades to come. But corporations' profit motives will affect what technologies they pursue vigorously or not.

Tech companies love to talk about divining our deepest desires and changing the world. Money is an uncouth motivation. But sorry. Money does make the world and technology go 'round.

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Let's do TikTok all over again?!?!

That sound you're hearing might be my frustrated shrieking.

The arrangement to keep the TikTok app operating in the United States under the partial ownership of Walmart and Oracle is … probably not happening, The Wall Street Journal reported.

You might recall that this deal last year was the result of the bizarre spectacle involving the president of the United States negotiating a business deal in public with some of the world's powerful executives.

This was motivated by concerns about TikTok being owned by the Chinese internet giant ByteDance. Because there's little separation in China between private companies and the government, some American officials feared that the short-video app could be abused to spread propaganda and steal Americans' personal information.

Some of the concerns about TikTok were legitimate, and some seemed motivated by misdirected nationalism. Either way, the U.S. government's threat to shut down TikTok and the scramble to make its ownership more American amounted to nothing.

But now, there's a chance for a do-over. The Journal reported that the Biden administration was determining its own response to the potential risk of Chinese software.

This time around, let's be more thoughtful about how we approach this. Because while TikTok is the first wildly popular technology in America that originates from China, I doubt it will be the last.

This time, let's consider ways to make all kinds of apps — not just TikTok — more transparent about material dictated by computers that can pull people into conspiracy theories. This is a chance to reconsider mostly unrestrained harvesting of Americans' data — by foreign and domestic companies.

This is an opportunity, too, for Americans and our government to grapple with what we want to do about global technology becoming less dominated by the United States. One question is whether American officials and the public should be focusing attention on the most serious technology threats from abroad. (TikTok might not be it.)

And lastly, all of this requires our politicians and companies like Facebook to stop using China as a catchall boogeyman.

TikTok Part 1 was pointless. Let's make the sequel mean something.

Before we go …

  • A less shouty Facebook feed. Maybe: The company shifted its computer formulas in a test to show people less material deemed political, my colleagues Kevin Roose and Mike Isaac reported. The goal is to make the feed feel less heated, but Facebook stopped similar experiments in the past after determining that they reduced the time people spent on the app.
  • Don't ignore Twitter vs. India: On grounds of free speech, Twitter is refusing the Indian government's demands to block some accounts belonging to journalists, activists and politicians, BuzzFeed News wrote. My colleague Karan Deep Singh wrote that Twitter did block or hide from view hundreds of other accounts on government orders. This might be the biggest showdown so far between a social media company and a democratically elected government.
  • These people are good. More people like this, please. My colleague Sharon Otterman and CNN wrote about people who are using their tech expertise to pinpoint open coronavirus vaccination appointments and round them up on simple websites or on social media.

Hugs to this

HAVE YOU SEEN THE ZOOM CAT LAWYER? A Zoom legal hearing (briefly) became a spectacle when a lawyer couldn't remove a kitty cat virtual image.

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