2021年2月11日 星期四

On Tech: Twitter vs. India

Plus, do we really hate fighting on Facebook?

Twitter vs. India

Karan Singh

A remarkable face-off is unfolding between an American internet company and the world's largest democracy over the appropriate bounds of free speech.

The backdrop is ongoing protests of farmers in India opposing new agriculture laws. The Indian government, citing its laws against subversion or threats to public order, demanded that Twitter delete or hide more than 1,100 accounts that it says have encouraged violence or spread misinformation.

Twitter has complied with some of India's orders. But Twitter has refused to remove accounts of journalists, activists and others that the company says are appropriately exercising their right to criticize the government.

The government of Prime Minister Narendra Modi is saying Twitter is breaking the law. Twitter is saying that India is breaking its own laws. And democracy activists say that tech companies like Twitter shouldn't play along when governments pass laws that effectively shut down free speech.

There are regularly disputes between internet companies and governments — both democratic and not — over whether posts break a country's laws. What's unusual here is how public and high profile the disagreement is, and that India has threatened to imprison Twitter employees.

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I spoke with David Kaye, a law professor at the University of California at Irvine and former U.N. special rapporteur on free expression, about Twitter's decisions in India, how they may reverberate and the consequences of a few tech companies setting the rules of global discourse.

Shira: Do you think Twitter is making the right call?

Kaye: Yes. Twitter is essentially saying that it won't comply with orders it considers inconsistent with Indian law and that violate people's human right to free expression.

Under the Modi government, India hasn't acted democratically on the rights of people to speak out against their government. I'm not sure why Twitter chose this moment to take a stand and not two or three years ago, when the company took action against people posting about Kashmir after pressure from the government.

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In my role at the United Nations back then, I asked Twitter to explain what happened. The company didn't answer. In a way, this week was Twitter's response.

But Twitter is defying a democratically elected government.

People shouldn't be under the impression that these companies see themselves as above the law. An important distinction in India is that the order came from a government ministry — not a court. Twitter is saying that India's demands to block accounts or remove posts didn't come through the regular rule of law.

What other questions does the standoff raise for you?

I have the same question that people asked after Trump was barred from Facebook and Twitter: What about all the other countries? Will Twitter also be more forceful in standing up to governments in Turkey, Egypt or Saudi Arabia? And how far is Twitter willing to go? Would it risk being blocked in India?

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(Twitter does not automatically comply when a government — including the United States — requests that the company pull down content or hand over users' data. Here are Twitter's disclosures on how often it responds to such requests by the authorities in Saudi Arabia, Turkey, Egypt, India and the United States.)

How should we feel that a few internet companies have the power to shape citizens' engagement with their governments and set the bounds of appropriate expression?

It's a problem. These companies have massive and largely unaccountable power. The fundamental question is: Who decides what is legitimate speech on these platforms?

Both the internet companies and governments deserve blame. The companies haven't provided transparency into their operations, their rules and their enforcement. Instead we have perpetual cycles of what look like seat-of-the-pants decisions in response to public pressure. And governments have largely not done the hard work to create smart regulation.

What does smart regulation look like?

The challenge for democratic governments is to enhance the transparency of social media and put it under a regulatory framework — but not impose content rules that are abused and interfere with the free speech rights of users or the rights of companies to create an environment that they want for users. That's the persistent tension.

The European Union's proposed Digital Services Act is quite sophisticated legislation on this. The U.S. is still screwing this up.

(Also read Tom Friedman, the New York Times Opinion columnist, who writes that he's rooting for Europe's strategy for regulating the internet.)

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Do we really hate fighting on Facebook?

The reason, Mark Zuckerberg explained recently, is that people told Facebook that they "don't want politics and fighting to take over their experience." But, uhhh, have they seen Facebook?

As my colleague Kevin Roose has reported relentlessly — and as an account he created tweets daily — the Facebook posts with links that tend to get the most reactions, shares and comments are overtly political fests of rage. So what is Facebook doing? Kevin and I chatted about this:

Shira: Haven't your analyses shown that people do want politics and fury in their news feeds?

Kevin: People contain multitudes, and their stated preferences often don't match their revealed preferences. If a nutritionist surveyed me about my ideal diet, I'd list healthy foods. But if you put a Big Mac in front of me, I'm going to eat it. I find it believable that Facebook users say they don't want politics and fury, but when their friend posts a great Bernie Sanders meme

I also suspect that a relatively small number of people are responsible for a huge amount of interactions on Facebook — and that those super sharers are really into politics. Facebook says that only 6 percent of what users in the United States see is political content, so most of Facebook really might be Instant Pot recipes and baby photos.

Is Facebook's silent majority the people who don't want all the politics?

Possibly! Or people just aren't honest about (or don't know) what they really want. I guess we'll find out from this Facebook test.

Should Facebook give us more of what we actually click on, or what we say we want to click on?

Facebook, like basically all social media apps, is designed to give us more of what we like. It's very lucrative, but this hasn't gone so well for democracy.

So what if a social network were designed to feed our aspirational selves, rather than our lizard-brain impulses? Would we like it more? Or would we miss the drama and the fighting?

Before we go …

  • America's unofficial unemployment hotline: During the pandemic, more Americans have turned to a Reddit message board for advice on navigating the confusing unemployment insurance systems, my colleague Ella Koeze writes. It's also a place to commiserate with others going through the same difficult circumstances.
  • Falling into the algorithm void: Companies that make specialized clothing for people with disabilities say that Facebook's automated systems routinely reject advertisements and listings for their products. The problem, my colleague Vanessa Friedman writes, is that computers are bad at nuance and Facebook's systems often flag adaptive clothing as medical equipment promotions or "adult content," which is against the company's rules.
  • The digital divide, at church: Wired writes about the churches that have thrived as worship largely moved online during the pandemic — and the struggles of others that didn't have the resources to go virtual.

Hugs to this

Eight-year-old Leo wrote a stern letter to his NPR station for not having more broadcasts about dinosaurs. So NPR asked Leo to interview a dinosaur expert. It was delightful.

We want to hear from you. Tell us what you think of this newsletter and what else you'd like us to explore. You can reach us at ontech@nytimes.com.

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2021年2月10日 星期三

The T List: Valentine’s Day Gift Guide, Part II

Dramatic bouquets, jelly cakes inspired by Sanrio — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. For this week, we've turned it into the second installment of our Valentine's Day gift guide, with recommendations from T staffers and contributors on what to give your loved ones — or yourself. Read the first edition here, and sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

DRAMATIC BLOOMS

Bouquets Assembled by Broadway Performers

Boo-Kay NYC's Grand Dame arrangement. Bouquets and kits from $75, bookaynyc.com.Rob Sutton

By Jennifer Conrad

T Contributor

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For years, Robbie Fairchild, a former New York City Ballet principal turned Broadway star, received flowers for a great performance. In 2017, when he was the lead in the London production of "An American in Paris," his apartment was next to the Covent Garden Academy of Flowers, and he eagerly enrolled in a class. He found working with flowers to be therapeutic, and in the best way, not unlike dancing. "Arrangements are all about balance and movement," he says. "And you spend all this time creating something to present to the recipient." That's what happened last March, when a fan who works for a flower distributor in the Netherlands sent a large box of fresh roses and peonies to Fairchild in New York and he spun them into bouquets for health care workers. He then realized that, with theaters dark, the hobby might also be a chance to support another group in need: He launched the floral studio Boo-Kay NYC, and soon brought on Adam Perry, a fellow performer who'd assisted florists between stage gigs, along with three others with Broadway ties. The team works out of the ground floor of Fairchild's Upper West Side duplex, which is now complete with a 5-by-5-foot walk-in refrigerator housing stems from the Netherlands and Manhattan's flower district. Fairchild hopes that Boo-Kay NYC will continue to provide a source of income — and a creative outlet — for its workers even after theaters reopen. For Valentine's Day, it's offering make-your-own arranging kits, as well as the Valentine, a bouquet with red roses, pink trumpet tulips and feathery wisps of dried eulalia. "We're really leaning into the theatricality," says Fairchild.

ON THE SCENT

Fragrances Inspired by Gambia and Sweden

Maya Njie's Tropica and Nordic Cedar scents, mayanjie.com. The fragrances can be purchased in the U.S. at Muse Experiences in New York, (212) 283-5340, and Tigerlily Perfumery in San Francisco, (415) 896-4665.Courtesy of Maya Njie

By Caitie Kelly

As a design and photography student at University of the Arts London, Maya Njie would often incorporate scent into her work, adding fragrances to her images to communicate "how a place or environment smells," she says. After graduating in 2012, she began making her own blends and launched her namesake fragrance line in 2016. Mixed in small batches and bottled by hand in a studio near Njie's home in East London, her light, unisex scents draw on her Swedish and Gambian heritage. Nordic Cedar, which has notes of patchouli and Virginian cedar wood, was influenced by the forests of her hometown, Vasteras, and also includes cardamom, an ingredient often found in Swedish cooking that Njie describes as "so ingrained in the Scandinavian way of living, I can't imagine home without it." Tobak, meanwhile, is a warm and comforting fragrance with notes of tobacco leaf, tonka, cinnamon and leather that reminds the perfumer of visiting her grandfather's apartment in Sweden as a child. Tropica is as it sounds: reminiscent of an exotic holiday, with hints of citrus, pineapple, coconut and sandalwood. And for something a bit more seasonal, this winter, Njie collaborated with the Los Angeles-based fragrance company Scent Trunk on a woody floral blend that took inspiration from Macedonia's Pelister National Park, and features earthy aromas such as those of birch leaf, orris, violet leaf and tree moss. While the fragrances' inspirations are personal to their creator, though, the scents are just as transporting for wearers.

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SWEET TREATS

Homemade Jelly Cakes That Evoke Hello Kitty

Left: Nunchi's Rosey Raspberry jelly cheesecake with edible pearls, and an Eternal bouquet from Brrch, $200, instagram.com; Right: Nunchi's Dome jelly cake, $150; eatnunchi.com.Lexie Park

By Thessaly La Force

The Nunchi cakes jiggle and wobble. They come in childish colors from slime green to pastel pink, and feature decorative fruit and nature motifs. This is the wildly inventive and Asian-inspired work of Lexie Park, the Korean-American food artist, who, after the pandemic started, began sharing her homemade jelly cakes (made entirely out of agar, which is derived from algae, and vegan; her jelly cheesecakes are made with gelatin) with friends in Los Angeles and on Instagram. "It just picked up exponentially," she says of her fledgling business, which she officially started in 2015. "Everyone started to want to treat themselves, and they would message me, asking for desserts." And so Park has remained busy, producing some 200 slippery confections herself a month, as well as making the desserts for the designer Humberto Leon's new Eagle Rock restaurant, Chifa, and developing a soon-to-be-launched home and cook-wear line. "It will look like if Animal Crossing, Cooking Mama and Sanrio had a baby," she says with a laugh. The name Nunchi comes from a Korean word that isn't easy to translate. "Korean parents use 'nunchi' a lot when they're scolding their children. It's like common sense tied with emotional intelligence. Have you ever seen an Asian home where everyone is helping in the kitchen? That's nunchi." For Valentine's Day, Park has teamed up with the floral studio Brrch Flowers, meaning one can now buy a special pairing of a Rosey Raspberry cheesecake with an Eternal bouquet of preserved grasses and fern with an assortment of bows and beads, through Nunchi's Instagram (for pick up in Los Angeles), and 20 percent of proceeds will go to FreeFrom, a nonprofit dedicated to fighting gender-based violence.

UNCOMMON OBJECTS

Limited-Edition Plates Made From Fused Glass

A selection of limited-edition plates by Fabien Cappello, from Hem's collaboration with Modern Design Review. Price upon request, hem.com.Adam Wiseman

By Michael Snyder

T Contributor

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About four years ago, the French industrial designer Fabien Cappello started experimenting with off-cuts of brightly colored glass that had been lying around his Mexico City studio, fusing the oddly shaped pieces in an oven to craft three-dimensional studies in pigment and process. The technique quickly became one of many in Cappello's ever-expanding wheelhouse, and last year, when the British magazine Modern Design Review tapped the designer, now based in Guadalajara, to produce a limited run of decorative objects for its fourth annual collaboration with the Swedish design brand Hem, he immediately turned back to those initial creations. The result is a series of 15 delicately curved plates in shades of lilac, sage and aquamarine, jeweled with opaque geometric forms in school-bus yellow, molten tangerine and luminescent charcoal gray. The pieces, which might function as fruit bowls or simply as beautiful objets d'art, suggest broken shards of pottery gone radioactive, and are reminiscent of the mosaics of shattered tiles found in thresholds, stairways and floors across Mexico. Fused glass is a relatively new technique here, the designer says, "mostly used for decorative crosses, picture frames, things like that." But like so much of Cappello's work, these plates look less to handicrafts than to the country's rich tradition of reuse and reinvention, playing with the boundaries between artisanal and industrial, utilitarian and decorative, and perhaps erasing those lines altogether.

HOME CINEMA

A Short Film for a Long Year

Stills from the film "Sincerely, Erik," available to watch on vimeo.com.Naz Riahi

By Minju Pak

By now, many of us have burned through every season of any television series available. So if you're desperately searching for something different to watch or do this weekend, why not try screening a short film? "Sincerely, Erik," written and directed by the first-time filmmaker Naz Riahi, and chosen by Vimeo as one of its best films of 2020, is a love letter to New York City — and to literature. Following a lonely bookseller whose West Village shop has been forced to close temporarily because of the pandemic (the part is played by Erik DuRon, the real-life co-owner of Left Bank Books), the story explores how individuals — particularly those who are uncoupled — are navigating forced solitude. "This film required me to be vulnerable as a single New Yorker, sheltering in place," says Riahi. "I had to say out loud, 'I'm lonely,' and show that onscreen." But much like taking a long, hot bath, watching a good film can feel restorative — and even more so when you're alone.

SEEING RED

A Perfect Lipstick for Every Skin Tone

From left: L'Oréal Paris Brilliant Signature Shiny Lip Stain in Be Brilliant, $12, lorealparisusa.com. Jones Road Cool Gloss in Poppy Red, $22, jonesroadbeauty.com. Live Tinted Huestick in Origin, $24, livetinted.com. Mented Cosmetics Red Matte Lipstick in Red Carpet, $18, mentedcosmetics.com. Lisa Eldridge True Velvet Lipstick in Velvet Ribbon, $34, lisaeldridge.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

For most, this Valentine's Day won't include romantic dinners out or get-togethers with friends — but that doesn't mean we can't find small ways to celebrate. Recently, I've noticed that wearing red lipstick, if only for Zoom meetings, infinitely brightens my spirit. Finding exactly the right hue can be difficult, though. For one thing, the beauty industry has long catered primarily to those with fairer complexions, often leaving people of color to mix their own complementary shades. To remedy that, KJ Miller and Amanda E. Johnson, the founders of the New York-based Mented Cosmetics, created three different reds that each work best with a specific undertone: yellow, blue or black. To determine your optimal shade, Miller suggests referencing your most flattering jewelry. If you look best in silver pieces, you likely have a cooler complexion and should try Red Carpet, which has a bluish tinge. If you prefer gold, opt for Red and Butter, which has yellow undertones. And if in doubt, try Red Rover, a dark, berrylike shade that works well for nearly everyone. Some of my other favorite reds include Lisa Eldridge's classic Velvet Ribbon lipstick, which has a slight sheen, so lips really do look velvety, not flat; the cherry-hued Cool Gloss from Jones Road, Bobbi Brown's new makeup venture, which has a refreshing, minty scent; L'Oréal's Shiny Lip Stain, whose glossy finish makes it perfect for all-day wear; and Live Tinted's Huestick, a four-in-one product that can be used as a blush, eye shadow, lipstick and color corrector. La bise might be a thing of the past, but red lips most certainly are not.

TIMELESS FASHION

A Capsule Collection for Versatile Dressing

Looks from the Tôteme x Mytheresa collaboration, to launch Feb. 23. Pieces start around $330, mytheresa.com. Courtesy of Mytheresa

By Kate Guadagnino

It's the rare fashion editor and writer who can translate her impeccable eye into a global brand, but that's what Elin Kling did when she founded Totême with her now-husband, Karl Lindman, in 2014. The Stockholm-based line appeals to those who dislike a design twist for its own sake but are nonetheless in want of clothes that feel chic, rather than sensible or severe. To celebrate adding the brand to its offerings, the German retailer Mytheresa has partnered with Kling and Lindman on a nine-piece capsule collection that revisits some of their most iconic styles. Included are wide-leg jeans in either white or raw denim, a pale-blue cashmere cardigan with black-and-silver buttons, and a cream-colored, smocked polyester tracksuit comprising a collared button-down and tapered elastic-waist pants. "The pants could almost be an evening piece — or you could wear them to the beach with a bikini," says Tiffany Hsu, Mytheresa's fashion buying director. Her words have me looking forward to the days when I'll need to get dressed in a real way again, not least because that will mean the world has become safer. And these pieces, which telegraph optimism in their palette and the mere fact of their existence without straying too far from the comfort level to which we've grown accustomed, seem like ideal ones to wear as we anticipate re-entry.

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