2021年2月24日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A new Parisian bakery, hand-embroidered pillows — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we're sharing things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

A Petite Pâtisserie Opens in Paris

Left: the exterior of Tapisserie. Right: the Clamatarte is a maple-syrup dessert now served at the bakery.From left: Théophile Pourriat; Mickaël Bandassak

By Lindsey Tramuta

T Contributor

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Parisian restaurants may still be shuttered, but bakeries and pastry shops have been doing brisk business, dispensing comfort with every sourdough loaf and buttery croissant. Perfect timing, then, for the opening of Tapisserie, a new pâtisserie in the 11th Arrondissement from Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat, the owners of the Michelin-starred neo-bistro Septime, who have expanded their reach in recent years with the seafood bistro Clamato, the wine bar Septime La Cave and the laid-back, 10-room guesthouse D'Une Île. The idea to open a pastry shop, though, came only after the duo started families of their own. "Since we've both had kids, sweets have taken on new importance in our lives," says Grébaut. That and, he admits, clients began clamoring for Clamato's signature dessert, a luscious maple-syrup tart topped with fresh whipped cream. Their sliver of a shop is overseen by the pastry chefs Nesreen Mroueh and Fanny Payre, who also produce kouignoù-amann, pain aux raisins and other French classics daily, as well as additional favorites from the group's establishments, from rustic tarts to pantry items such as smoked caramelized walnuts, jams and even ciders. The pear tart and vanilla grass cream puffs are reminiscent of teatime at D'Une Île, while a tarte aux fleurs, popular at Septime, will roll out in the spring. Driving it all is a commitment to ethical consumption. "There's been a revolution in cooking and bread-making in France, but aesthetics still reign in pastry, which means there's heavy use of artificial dyes and additives," says Grébaut. But you won't find any of that here: "We think there's plenty of room for a more sustainable option." 65 rue de Charonne, Paris, tapisserie-patisserie.fr.

SEE THIS

The Mythological Figures of Shinichi Sawada

From left: Shinichi Sawada's "Untitled (117)" (2006-10) and "Untitled (128)" (2010).Courtesy of the artist, Venus Over Manhattan, New York, and Jennifer Lauren Gallery, Manchester

By Courtney Coffman

T Contributor

For the past 20 years, the self-taught Japanese artist Shinichi Sawada has sculpted ghoulish ceramic beasts that grimace, glare and gawk. The unglazed works, reminiscent of both Jomon pottery and anime, first garnered international attention at the 2013 Venice Biennale, and this week they make their long-anticipated U.S. debut with an exhibition at Venus Over Manhattan. For many of the 30 untitled pieces that make up the show — all of which were created from Shigaraki clay, known for its sturdiness and ruddy orange color — the artist stacked one beguiling face on top of another, creating totems of glowering eyes and protruding talons. To make his works, Sawada travels three days a week to Nakayoshi Fukushikai, a social welfare facility in Japan's Shiga Prefecture that supports people with disabilities. (Sawada is autistic and mostly nonverbal.) Situated among the mountains and surrounded by forest, the center includes an ad hoc studio with two hand-built wood-fire kilns that are lit only twice a year, a factor that contributes to the rarity of Sawada's sculptures, despite the fact that he works fastidiously. As his ceramics facilitator, Masaharu Iketani, observes, "He does three to four hours of creative activity in the afternoon, without taking any breaks." The result is a wildly imaginative bestiary that transports its viewer to a different realm, offering a welcome reprieve from our current one. "Shinichi Sawada" is on view through March 20 at Venus Over Manhattan, 120 East 65th Street, New York City, venusovermanhattan.com.

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COVET THIS

Unusual Homewares From Europe and Beyond

Left: the interior of Nora Khereddine Objects in Munich. Right: a pair of wood bowls by the German carpenter Fritz Baumann and a brass lamp by the Copenhagen-based studio Frama.Sarah Fürbringer

By Alice Newell-Hanson

While working as a lifestyle editor at various German magazines over the past decade, Nora Khereddine would daydream about living among the sort of objects she admired in her writing. "I always had a fantasy of a little shop with an office at the back," she says. And so, last June, when she came across an ad for a small ground-floor space that was available for lease in Munich, her hometown, she decided, on a whim, to rent it. A month later — spurred on by a desire to support independent makers during the pandemic — she had filled the interior with homewares sourced from across Europe and united by her vision of unfussy beauty: white ceramic vases with crisp, angular silhouettes by the 80-year-old Swiss ceramics company Linck; comb-back Windsor chairs and simple three-legged stools handcrafted from walnut by the woodworker Fabian Fischer in Freiburg, Germany; undulating elephant-grass baskets designed by the Swiss maker Kathrin Eckhardt and hand-woven in Ghana. The finished space has the feel of an enviably well-decorated apartment, but without being overly precious or predictable — there are also birthday candles made from Lithuanian beeswax with hot pink and bright orange wicks, and vintage cotton-and-wool Berber blankets in rainbow-colored checks. Khereddine, who has experience in floral design, is also selling flower arrangements through the store. And just as she'd always hoped, there's a smaller back room, in which she plans to host workshops and get-togethers when safety allows. Westermühlstraße 21, 80469, Munich. The store is currently offering curbside pickups and virtual appointments via FaceTime and WhatsApp, norakhereddine.com.

BUY THIS

Hand-Embroidered Pillows From Lebanon

A mix of Kissweh's pillows, some of which — like the Abir, Rima, Malak, Zeinab, Ensaf, Hanan and Mariamare — are named after the studio's team members at Lebanon's Rashidieh, Shatila and Bourj Al Barajneh refugee camps.Nancy Pearce

By Sean Caley Newcott

T Contributor

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Among the residents of Lebanon's Rashidieh, Shatila and Bourj Al Barajneh refugee camps are the artisans behind Kissweh, an embroidery studio that draws on the traditional motifs of Palestinian folk art to fashion exquisitely handcrafted needlepoint pillows. Kissweh, founded in 2017 by Claudia Martinez Mansell, who is based in Los Angeles and is also a member of the United Nations' humanitarian operations, takes its name from the Arabic word for trousseau — the collection of textiles, garments, jewelry and other items ceremonially prepared by a bride's family in anticipation of her wedding. But the company chose to focus exclusively on pillows, determined to create something timeless and capable of being enjoyed by all. The cushions come in a variety of sizes and colorways — from traditional Palestinian reds and blues to less expected shades, like lilac and sage. To make them, one of 30 craftswomen — who range in age from 18 to 70 and are, in many cases, members of the same family — works with quality linen and cotton thread to first create pieces of embroidery that employ motifs, like classic geometric patterns, and spiritual references, like the star of Bethlehem and the Moon of Ramallah; other recurring symbols include cypress trees, feathers and damask roses. Each embroidery takes two to three weeks to create, after which the completely unique designs are taken to a sewing center in Beirut, where one of three other women on the Kissweh team stitch them together, matching the patterns to colorful linen backs and zippers. As Martinez Mansell says, the pillows are "a reminder, and a discovery, of the rich history and craftsmanship" of the Middle East. A portion of the proceeds go to Beit Atfal Assumoud, a nonprofit that supports refugees. From $320, kissweh.com.

WEAR THIS

Elegant Fashion for the Eco-Conscious

Looks from Maria McManus's summer 2021 collection.Ellinor Stigle

By Thessaly La Force

When the Irish-born, New York-based fashion designer Maria McManus decided about three years ago to create a line of truly sustainable clothing, she knew it wasn't going to be easy. But her many years in fashion (including her time at Edun, Rag & Bone and Ralph Lauren) helped her see that there was still a need for clothes that were as luxurious as they were environmentally conscious. Earlier this month, she debuted her namesake brand's first collection, which consists of 31 pieces and includes sumptuous cashmere knitwear (with slits in the sleeves so the sweaters can be easily thrown over your shoulders), perfect-looking oversize shirts (with a box pleat detail on the back yoke for a cocoon-like silhouette) and vintage-inspired outerwear. Reminiscent of the Row or the elegant workingwoman aesthetic of Celine's Phoebe Philo era, the clothes are instantly covetable. And though McManus wanted to think big by selecting fabrics that were recycled, organic, biodegradable or sourced responsibly, she also paid attention to the smallest of details — from the buttons made out of corozo nuts (a much more ecologically sound alternative to plastic, horn or resin) to the distinct-looking Ottoman stitch on a shirt cuff. "None of this is that new or revolutionary," acknowledged McManus of her designs, "but the concept of doing something less bad for the world is." It's also a radical way to think about shopping for yourself these days. mariamcmanus.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Corsica's Rare Citrus Collection

A selection of fruit from the Citrus Biological Resource Center in San Giuliano, Corsica, including, clockwise from top left, Corsican citrons, makrut limes, Meyer lemons, Timor pomelos, Okitsu Satsuma mandarins, bergamot oranges, Clanor sweet oranges, clementines, Page mandarins, Samuyao papedas, Clemendor mandarins, Star Ruby grapefruits, Chinotto sour oranges, variegated lemons, variegated sour oranges, Fukushu kumquats, Buddha's hand citrons, Hong Kong kumquats, Brown River finger limes and Faustrime finger lime hybrids.François Halard

In the late 1600s, an unusual tree appeared in northern Corsica that bore both acidic lemons and sweet oranges. The tree, which grew in a secluded hilltop village, went unnoticed for centuries, alternating between the two fruits like a soft-serve ice cream dispenser: A single branch might yield not only oranges and lemons but also fruits that are part lemon, part orange. Some 300 years later, an amateur pomologist discovered the tree. He traced its age using records from a local monastery, then alerted the leading rare-citrus authority in France, the Citrus Biological Resource Center in San Giuliano, on the island's eastern coast. An open-air library, the center maintains trees that grow lemons as sweet as plums and as large as bell peppers; grapefruits the size of birthday balloons; garnet red hybrid clementines and green tangerines. The scientists who work there engineer new varieties and preserve early iterations of forgotten and near-extinct fruits, such as the Spanish Sucreña orange, remembered by some Valencians born before 1960 for its intensely sweet juice. Founded in 1958 with trees imported from North Africa, the conservancy promotes citriculture in Corsica and throughout France. And while many countries, including the United States, China, Brazil and Japan, maintain citrus collections, France's is among the largest, and has become a pilgrimage site for the country's chefs, pâtissiers and fragrance-house noses. Read Zoey Poll's full story at tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: This website is my pandemic BFF

Plus, is hatred of Airbnb inevitable?

This website is my pandemic BFF

Hoi Chan

I have two essential pandemic companions: cheese and a website called JustWatch.

JustWatch isn't particularly fancy, but it tells me where I can watch a particular show or movie that I'm looking for online. That doesn't sound like a big deal, but it is.

When I read recently about a decade-old British comedy series, "Miranda," JustWatch showed me that it was streaming for free on the Roku Channel. It identified which episodes of a fun British home-building show, "Grand Designs," are on Netflix and which are missing. I wouldn't have found this out otherwise. Even Google doesn't spit out this information.

JustWatch isn't perfect, and it's not curing the coronavirus. But it (mostly) solves a small annoyance of at-home life.

The website exists because streaming entertainment is glorious — and an unruly mess. Companies care more about their bottom lines than their customers, so as streaming services scatter entertainment around like confetti, it's often impossible to figure out how they work together.

Mostly, I want to revel in what works about JustWatch.

David Croyé, the company's chief executive, told me that JustWatch computers constantly probe under the hood of more than 1,000 streaming video services and digital download catalogs from companies like Apple and Amazon. There are tens of thousands of entertainment options that constantly change and vary by country.

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Croyé said that JustWatch made it "easier for people to navigate the jungle of content and streaming services."

Lots of companies say they do this. Very few do.

Apple touts its online video app called TV as a hub for people to watch anything on their streaming services. Nope. Apple doesn't catalog options from Netflix, for example. You'll encounter similar gaps or confusion hunting for stuff on streaming gadgets like Amazon's Fire TV. It just doesn't work.

Why? Money.

Netflix doesn't want to let competitors like Apple or Amazon peer into its entertainment roster — or it wants to get paid for it. No streaming company wants to point you to "Love & Basketball" on a rival service. Google searches for streaming shows can return unreliable junk.

JustWatch is an island of reprieve, partly because it's not powerful enough for anyone to fear.

It won't tell you what's on regular TV tonight, and it makes mistakes. Margaret Lyons, my colleague who writes the Watching newsletter, uses JustWatch "constantly," she said, but finds it sometimes says shows are available places they're not. (Margaret also uses Flixable, a searchable database for several streaming services.)

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Other companies like Roku started out promising to be neutral streaming helpers and didn't stay that way. JustWatch could have that problem.

It makes money by harnessing data on what people watch to tailor entertainment companies' strategies. Sony's movie studio might use JustWatch's information to target online movie trailers to horror film fans.

It can be a red flag when companies make money from data rather than people using their products. You could imagine that JustWatch might steer us to watch "Paddington" on Hulu because the company pays for the recommendation. Croyé said that it would be counterproductive if JustWatch betrayed our trust that way.

There is still no universal guide to the new TV, because streaming entertainment is a mess. (Have I mentioned this?) But for now, JustWatch feels like the next best thing.

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Is hatred of Airbnb inevitable?

My colleague Erin Griffith's recent article about people who rent out their homes on Airbnb made me wonder again if there is something fundamentally broken with many of the digital services that we use.

Erin spoke to homeowners who felt that Airbnb's pandemic-related refunds to renters hurt their livelihoods. It made some of them realize how little power they had.

It can be hard to feel sympathy for people who own nice homes and rent them on Airbnb. But Erin's reporting pointed out an underlying flaw with practically all of the digital matchmakers like Airbnb that connect willing sellers and buyers: People eventually hate their guts.

Expedia matches hotels with people who want a room. Hotels hate it. DoorDash connects restaurants with people who want a meal at home. Restaurants hate it, and couriers sometimes do, too. Lots of merchants who sell on Amazon feel they get the short end of the stick. Some app makers feel they get a raw deal from Apple.

What Erin heard from Airbnb hosts fits this pattern. The party that is offering something for sale often believes the middleman is charging them too much, making unfair rules or growing more powerful at their expense. It is all the same flavor of grievance.

And like some restaurants, hotels and app makers, unhappy Airbnb hosts told Erin that they wanted customers to come to them directly and skip the all-powerful matchmaker.

I don't know if it is possible to wean people off these middlemen. Finding a bunch of restaurants, places to stay or merchants in one app is handy. And the complaints might be unjustified. Airbnb, the iPhone app store and DoorDash bring in huge numbers of customers who wouldn't be there otherwise.

But given how often at least one party in these matchmaking transactions grows to resent the arrangement, I wonder if any of this is sustainable.

(Full disclosure: My sister works for a hotel workers' union that has advocated for tighter regulation of Airbnb.)

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Before we go …

  • Routers are very boring but important: My colleague Brian X. Chen tested a crop of the new generation of Wi-Fi routers that promise to make our home internet connections zippier and more reliable. Brian's results weren't wow, but he has advice for us.
  • Everything is not fine with that Russian cyberattack: Members of Congress and corporate executives still aren't sure how Russia pulled off one of the most sophisticated computer hacks in history, my colleague David E. Sanger reported. And it's possible the attackers are still hanging out in government and corporate computer networks.
  • Facebook is a private State Department: ProPublica reported that Facebook executives sided with Turkey's demand to block material on the military's attacks on the Kurdish minority rather than risk being shut down in the country.

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