2021年2月25日 星期四

On Tech: The long, painful path of net neutrality

Plus, Facebook's false choice.

The long, painful path of net neutrality

Dev Valladares

People may scream at me for saying this, but net neutrality is one of America's longest and now most pointless fights over technology.

The principle is sound: Companies like Comcast and AT&T that sell us home internet service shouldn't push some online data to computers and TV sets faster than others. (The internet companies say that it's counterproductive for the government to impose this.)

So since the Napster era, we've been stuck in an endless loop of arguments, laws and repealed laws. California this week was cleared to enforce its own net neutrality regulation, which (of course) had been challenged in court. This is now a distraction for our elected leaders and corporations when there are more pressing issues.

I talked to my colleague Cecilia Kang about the origins of the war over net neutrality (barbershop music!) and what's at stake.

Shira: How long have we been fighting about net neutrality?

Cecilia: Forever. It's probably the oldest tech policy issue I can remember, and I've been doing this a long time. The idea of net neutrality goes back earlier, but it really kicked off in 2008. A news article discussed a man whose Comcast internet service seemed to be blocking him from barbershop quartet music on peer-to-peer file sharing. The Federal Communications Commission sanctioned Comcast. That started a fight over federal rules and a war between telecommunications providers and tech firms.

Why does the fight matter to us?

Many Americans have only one or possibly two options for home internet providers. Those companies can in theory decide whether we can view Netflix or YouTube crystal clear or if we see the pinwheel of death as those sites stutter. You can see the appeal of rules that make sure internet providers don't stall web traffic unless it's from their preferred business partners or their own streaming services.

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However, the debate feels much less urgent now that we're talking about threats of online disinformation about vaccine deployment and elections. The net neutrality debate focused on internet service providers as powerful gatekeepers of internet information. That term now seems better applied to Facebook, Google and Amazon.

When Google has its own undersea internet cables, isn't the reality that some internet services reach us faster no matter what the law says?

Yes, but the internet providers like Spectrum, Verizon and Comcast that have pipes directly into homes is what regulators care most about. They spook Silicon Valley, too, because every online company needs those internet providers to get into American homes.

What happens next?

Probably more states will follow California in pressing for their own net neutrality rules, or the F.C.C. will push national rules that pre-empt the states. Groups that want net neutrality laws will be happy with either. Telecom companies prefer a national law or none at all.

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Internet providers, public interest groups, some tech companies and a bunch of our elected leaders have been screaming holy war about an issue for 13 years without a resolution. Can they reach a middle ground and we'll all move on?

There probably isn't much of a middle ground. There are either net neutrality rules or there aren't. And the internet service providers see net neutrality as a slippery slope that leads to broader regulation of high-speed internet services or government-imposed limits on prices they can charge. They will fight any regulation. And that's true, too, of the lobbyists who are hired to argue against anything.

Cecilia, that's the absolute worst.

Yeah, totally cynical. Welcome to Washington!

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Facebook's false choice

Facebook on Thursday introduced a campaign to convince the public that how it makes money is good for us. But it's not telling the whole story.

To remind you: Facebook compiles information on what we do on its apps, all over the web and in the real world. It uses that data to help Nike or the local coffee shop pitch ads to people who are likely potential customers. Google operates similarly, and lots of companies try to do versions of this.

These targeted advertisements, which are based on our behavior or computer-aided inferences about what we'll like, benefit both us and businesses. We probably get cheaper picture-framing services or hotel rooms because Facebook gives businesses a relatively affordable way to pinpoint the most receptive customers.

But Facebook is also offering a false choice between old and wasteful types of advertising and the current mode of recording every hamburger you've eaten since 2001 to pinpoint ads. No no no no no.

Facebook is effectively saying that the only alternative to its invasive, data-hogging status quo is the pre-internet system in which magazines, news organizations and television networks more or less guessed at the right audience for a Nike commercial.

But the way that Facebook and Google have designed their advertising systems is not the only alternative to the clunky old ways.

Here are some questions that we and policymakers need to ask Facebook and other companies that sell ads: What if the companies collected less data about us? Does Facebook really need to know every time we visit Starbucks down to the millisecond? What is an effective middle ground?

We would benefit from fewer Facebook publicity campaigns, and more informed debate about how advertising can best serve all of us.

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Before we go …

  • The stakes of online life, encapsulated in one country: Facebook banned Myanmar's military from its services after it led a coup. The decision, my colleagues wrote, "left little question that the company was taking the side of a pro-democracy movement."
  • Hang out for discussions about nuclear power and Korean karaoke contests: The Times technology columnist Kevin Roose explained the appeal of Clubhouse, the buzzy audio chat room app, but also said that it is speed-running through the typical internet life cycle from joy to horror.
  • Companies can't quit the plus sign: My colleague Tiffany Hsu tells us why every video streaming service is named "[something]+" "It's not that 'plus' is the best name," one source told Tiffany. "It's the one that survives, because everything else is eviscerated." Related: This meme.

Hugs to this

A look at the Slippery Stairs world championship from 2019. Because, why not.

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2021年2月24日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A new Parisian bakery, hand-embroidered pillows — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we're sharing things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

A Petite Pâtisserie Opens in Paris

Left: the exterior of Tapisserie. Right: the Clamatarte is a maple-syrup dessert now served at the bakery.From left: Théophile Pourriat; Mickaël Bandassak

By Lindsey Tramuta

T Contributor

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Parisian restaurants may still be shuttered, but bakeries and pastry shops have been doing brisk business, dispensing comfort with every sourdough loaf and buttery croissant. Perfect timing, then, for the opening of Tapisserie, a new pâtisserie in the 11th Arrondissement from Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat, the owners of the Michelin-starred neo-bistro Septime, who have expanded their reach in recent years with the seafood bistro Clamato, the wine bar Septime La Cave and the laid-back, 10-room guesthouse D'Une Île. The idea to open a pastry shop, though, came only after the duo started families of their own. "Since we've both had kids, sweets have taken on new importance in our lives," says Grébaut. That and, he admits, clients began clamoring for Clamato's signature dessert, a luscious maple-syrup tart topped with fresh whipped cream. Their sliver of a shop is overseen by the pastry chefs Nesreen Mroueh and Fanny Payre, who also produce kouignoù-amann, pain aux raisins and other French classics daily, as well as additional favorites from the group's establishments, from rustic tarts to pantry items such as smoked caramelized walnuts, jams and even ciders. The pear tart and vanilla grass cream puffs are reminiscent of teatime at D'Une Île, while a tarte aux fleurs, popular at Septime, will roll out in the spring. Driving it all is a commitment to ethical consumption. "There's been a revolution in cooking and bread-making in France, but aesthetics still reign in pastry, which means there's heavy use of artificial dyes and additives," says Grébaut. But you won't find any of that here: "We think there's plenty of room for a more sustainable option." 65 rue de Charonne, Paris, tapisserie-patisserie.fr.

SEE THIS

The Mythological Figures of Shinichi Sawada

From left: Shinichi Sawada's "Untitled (117)" (2006-10) and "Untitled (128)" (2010).Courtesy of the artist, Venus Over Manhattan, New York, and Jennifer Lauren Gallery, Manchester

By Courtney Coffman

T Contributor

For the past 20 years, the self-taught Japanese artist Shinichi Sawada has sculpted ghoulish ceramic beasts that grimace, glare and gawk. The unglazed works, reminiscent of both Jomon pottery and anime, first garnered international attention at the 2013 Venice Biennale, and this week they make their long-anticipated U.S. debut with an exhibition at Venus Over Manhattan. For many of the 30 untitled pieces that make up the show — all of which were created from Shigaraki clay, known for its sturdiness and ruddy orange color — the artist stacked one beguiling face on top of another, creating totems of glowering eyes and protruding talons. To make his works, Sawada travels three days a week to Nakayoshi Fukushikai, a social welfare facility in Japan's Shiga Prefecture that supports people with disabilities. (Sawada is autistic and mostly nonverbal.) Situated among the mountains and surrounded by forest, the center includes an ad hoc studio with two hand-built wood-fire kilns that are lit only twice a year, a factor that contributes to the rarity of Sawada's sculptures, despite the fact that he works fastidiously. As his ceramics facilitator, Masaharu Iketani, observes, "He does three to four hours of creative activity in the afternoon, without taking any breaks." The result is a wildly imaginative bestiary that transports its viewer to a different realm, offering a welcome reprieve from our current one. "Shinichi Sawada" is on view through March 20 at Venus Over Manhattan, 120 East 65th Street, New York City, venusovermanhattan.com.

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COVET THIS

Unusual Homewares From Europe and Beyond

Left: the interior of Nora Khereddine Objects in Munich. Right: a pair of wood bowls by the German carpenter Fritz Baumann and a brass lamp by the Copenhagen-based studio Frama.Sarah Fürbringer

By Alice Newell-Hanson

While working as a lifestyle editor at various German magazines over the past decade, Nora Khereddine would daydream about living among the sort of objects she admired in her writing. "I always had a fantasy of a little shop with an office at the back," she says. And so, last June, when she came across an ad for a small ground-floor space that was available for lease in Munich, her hometown, she decided, on a whim, to rent it. A month later — spurred on by a desire to support independent makers during the pandemic — she had filled the interior with homewares sourced from across Europe and united by her vision of unfussy beauty: white ceramic vases with crisp, angular silhouettes by the 80-year-old Swiss ceramics company Linck; comb-back Windsor chairs and simple three-legged stools handcrafted from walnut by the woodworker Fabian Fischer in Freiburg, Germany; undulating elephant-grass baskets designed by the Swiss maker Kathrin Eckhardt and hand-woven in Ghana. The finished space has the feel of an enviably well-decorated apartment, but without being overly precious or predictable — there are also birthday candles made from Lithuanian beeswax with hot pink and bright orange wicks, and vintage cotton-and-wool Berber blankets in rainbow-colored checks. Khereddine, who has experience in floral design, is also selling flower arrangements through the store. And just as she'd always hoped, there's a smaller back room, in which she plans to host workshops and get-togethers when safety allows. Westermühlstraße 21, 80469, Munich. The store is currently offering curbside pickups and virtual appointments via FaceTime and WhatsApp, norakhereddine.com.

BUY THIS

Hand-Embroidered Pillows From Lebanon

A mix of Kissweh's pillows, some of which — like the Abir, Rima, Malak, Zeinab, Ensaf, Hanan and Mariamare — are named after the studio's team members at Lebanon's Rashidieh, Shatila and Bourj Al Barajneh refugee camps.Nancy Pearce

By Sean Caley Newcott

T Contributor

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Among the residents of Lebanon's Rashidieh, Shatila and Bourj Al Barajneh refugee camps are the artisans behind Kissweh, an embroidery studio that draws on the traditional motifs of Palestinian folk art to fashion exquisitely handcrafted needlepoint pillows. Kissweh, founded in 2017 by Claudia Martinez Mansell, who is based in Los Angeles and is also a member of the United Nations' humanitarian operations, takes its name from the Arabic word for trousseau — the collection of textiles, garments, jewelry and other items ceremonially prepared by a bride's family in anticipation of her wedding. But the company chose to focus exclusively on pillows, determined to create something timeless and capable of being enjoyed by all. The cushions come in a variety of sizes and colorways — from traditional Palestinian reds and blues to less expected shades, like lilac and sage. To make them, one of 30 craftswomen — who range in age from 18 to 70 and are, in many cases, members of the same family — works with quality linen and cotton thread to first create pieces of embroidery that employ motifs, like classic geometric patterns, and spiritual references, like the star of Bethlehem and the Moon of Ramallah; other recurring symbols include cypress trees, feathers and damask roses. Each embroidery takes two to three weeks to create, after which the completely unique designs are taken to a sewing center in Beirut, where one of three other women on the Kissweh team stitch them together, matching the patterns to colorful linen backs and zippers. As Martinez Mansell says, the pillows are "a reminder, and a discovery, of the rich history and craftsmanship" of the Middle East. A portion of the proceeds go to Beit Atfal Assumoud, a nonprofit that supports refugees. From $320, kissweh.com.

WEAR THIS

Elegant Fashion for the Eco-Conscious

Looks from Maria McManus's summer 2021 collection.Ellinor Stigle

By Thessaly La Force

When the Irish-born, New York-based fashion designer Maria McManus decided about three years ago to create a line of truly sustainable clothing, she knew it wasn't going to be easy. But her many years in fashion (including her time at Edun, Rag & Bone and Ralph Lauren) helped her see that there was still a need for clothes that were as luxurious as they were environmentally conscious. Earlier this month, she debuted her namesake brand's first collection, which consists of 31 pieces and includes sumptuous cashmere knitwear (with slits in the sleeves so the sweaters can be easily thrown over your shoulders), perfect-looking oversize shirts (with a box pleat detail on the back yoke for a cocoon-like silhouette) and vintage-inspired outerwear. Reminiscent of the Row or the elegant workingwoman aesthetic of Celine's Phoebe Philo era, the clothes are instantly covetable. And though McManus wanted to think big by selecting fabrics that were recycled, organic, biodegradable or sourced responsibly, she also paid attention to the smallest of details — from the buttons made out of corozo nuts (a much more ecologically sound alternative to plastic, horn or resin) to the distinct-looking Ottoman stitch on a shirt cuff. "None of this is that new or revolutionary," acknowledged McManus of her designs, "but the concept of doing something less bad for the world is." It's also a radical way to think about shopping for yourself these days. mariamcmanus.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Corsica's Rare Citrus Collection

A selection of fruit from the Citrus Biological Resource Center in San Giuliano, Corsica, including, clockwise from top left, Corsican citrons, makrut limes, Meyer lemons, Timor pomelos, Okitsu Satsuma mandarins, bergamot oranges, Clanor sweet oranges, clementines, Page mandarins, Samuyao papedas, Clemendor mandarins, Star Ruby grapefruits, Chinotto sour oranges, variegated lemons, variegated sour oranges, Fukushu kumquats, Buddha's hand citrons, Hong Kong kumquats, Brown River finger limes and Faustrime finger lime hybrids.François Halard

In the late 1600s, an unusual tree appeared in northern Corsica that bore both acidic lemons and sweet oranges. The tree, which grew in a secluded hilltop village, went unnoticed for centuries, alternating between the two fruits like a soft-serve ice cream dispenser: A single branch might yield not only oranges and lemons but also fruits that are part lemon, part orange. Some 300 years later, an amateur pomologist discovered the tree. He traced its age using records from a local monastery, then alerted the leading rare-citrus authority in France, the Citrus Biological Resource Center in San Giuliano, on the island's eastern coast. An open-air library, the center maintains trees that grow lemons as sweet as plums and as large as bell peppers; grapefruits the size of birthday balloons; garnet red hybrid clementines and green tangerines. The scientists who work there engineer new varieties and preserve early iterations of forgotten and near-extinct fruits, such as the Spanish Sucreña orange, remembered by some Valencians born before 1960 for its intensely sweet juice. Founded in 1958 with trees imported from North Africa, the conservancy promotes citriculture in Corsica and throughout France. And while many countries, including the United States, China, Brazil and Japan, maintain citrus collections, France's is among the largest, and has become a pilgrimage site for the country's chefs, pâtissiers and fragrance-house noses. Read Zoey Poll's full story at tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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