2021年3月3日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Shiona Turini's beauty secrets, a boutique hotel in Oaxaca — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we're sharing things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

Inside Shiona Turini's Beauty Regimen

Left: Shiona Turini. Right, clockwise from top left: Glossier Boy Brow, $16, glossier.com. Fenty Beauty Match Stix Shimmer Skinstick, $25, fentybeauty.com. Salt Spray Soap Co. Whipped Body Butter, $22, saltspraysoap.com. Dior Diorshow Pump 'n' Volume HD #090 Black, $30, dior.com. La Mer Cleansing Foam, $95, lamer.com. Bread Beauty Supply Hair-Mask, $28, breadbeautysupply.com. Tom Ford Black Orchid EDP, $134, tomford.com.Portrait by Quan Mai; product photos courtesy of the brands.

Interview by Sean Caley Newcott

T Contributor

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For the first installment of the T List's beauty column, which will appear in the newsletter on the first Wednesday of every month and detail the products and treatments that creative people swear by, the stylist Shiona Turini speaks about her daily routine.

With sensitive, combination and acne-prone skin, I focus less on makeup and more on skin care. It all starts with face wash, and my go-to is La Mer's Cleansing Foam. This cleanser is it for me: It's made a huge impact on my skin's texture and tone. After that, I use La Suite Skincare's Botanical Brightening Pads on the areas where I break out — they contain kojic acid, arbutin and emblica, which helps calm redness. Next, I massage Aesop's Lucent Facial Concentrate, a lightweight serum with hints of rose petal and other antioxidant ingredients, into my skin, which leaves it feeling replenished and hydrated. Moisturizer is one of my won't-go-a-day-without products. I swear by Christine Chin's Cell'Liquid Gold face lotion and religiously use Nivea Shea Daily Moisture on my body. I've tried so many expensive lotions and always come back to Nivea. For drier areas, like my heels and elbows, I like Salt Spray Soap Co.'s Whipped Body Butter, which I stock up on every time I go home to Bermuda (I'm a true island girl). Day to day, I don't wear a lick of makeup, but every now and then I love a swipe of Dior's Diorshow Pump 'n' Volume HD mascara, a tap of Fenty Beauty's Match Stix Glow Skinstick and a touch of Glossier's Boy Brow. When it comes to hair, I've been wearing braids and twists for the last five years and pamper those protective styles with Sunday II Sunday's apple-cider-vinegar-infused Root Refresh Micellar Rinse, perfect for when I'm between washes, and its peppermint oil-infused Soothe Me Daily Scalp Serum, a cooling everyday treatment. If I'm going to wear my hair curly, I use Bread Beauty Supply's Hair-Mask: It gives my curls definition without leaving them crunchy. And before running out the door, I always spritz on Tom Ford's Black Orchid perfume, which has notes of black truffle, ylang-ylang, bergamot and black currant: I like scents with a little bit of spice.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

VISIT THIS

A Japanese Deli Opens in Manhattan

At Noz Market, clockwise from far left: jackfish fillets; rock oysters; bottarga, or cured fish roe; boxes of uni from Maine and Japan; tilefish heads; and whole branzino dried and filleted in house.Courtesy of Noz Market

By Nikki Shaner-Bradford

T Contributor

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On any given day, passers-by can stop and ogle the massive flank of bluefin tuna or the spiny orange legs of an eight-pound king crab in the window of Noz Market, a newly opened Japanese delicatessen on New York's Upper East Side. Walking through the door reveals even more ocean fare, most of which — including Hokkaido uni, squid legs, hamachi kama (yellowtail jaw), botan shrimp and house-cured bottarga — is imported from Tokyo's Toyosu fish market. The shop, which had its soft opening in December, was born of the success that the master sushi chef Nozomu Abe of the Michelin-starred New York restaurant Sushi Noz found in reinventing his menu for delivery in response to the city's indoor dining restrictions: When the storefront next door emptied, his team took it over and set about curating a spread of sashimi and sushi boxes, soups, teas, caviar, homemade sauces and myriad fillets to go. Now, home cooks have access to delicacies, like Tasmanian salmon and Japanese rock oysters, that were previously only available at Sushi Noz's hinoki counter. Perhaps the most delightful offerings, though, are the made-to-order hand rolls: To wait as they're prepared is to witness a unique artistry — warm rice is smoothed onto crispy seaweed, then painted with wasabi and rolled alongside thin slices of fish into a cone. 1374 Third Avenue, New York, nozmarket.com.

TRY THIS

Wonder Valley's Olive Stone and Lotus Seed Exfoliant

Wonder Valley's face oil (left) and exfoliant (right).Jay Carroll/Wonder Valley 

By Kurt Soller

I first fell for Wonder Valley in the kitchen, where I like to use the company's peppery green extra-virgin olive oil for roasting root vegetables and dressing salads. The brand's olives come from Lake County, Calif., where they're milled on the younger side, which gives the oil a brighter taste, a longer shelf life and more antioxidants, according to its founders, Jay and Alison Carroll, the latter of whom spent years working for the California Olive Oil Council, where, she says, she became "enamored with the history, the mythology and the endless benefits of this age-old product." After the couple's first harvest in 2014, she began to experiment with the oil as a facial moisturizer, which eventually evolved into a beauty line, and now Wonder Valley has become a staple in my bathroom, too, where I use the milky cleanser to wash my face and the hinoki-scented body oil after every shower (both contain olive oil, of course, alongside other botanicals). Recently, the company released a powder exfoliant that's meant to be mixed with the cleanser: Packaged inside a clever togarashi-inspired canister, it's made from olive stone, lotus seed, green tea, lemon peel, bamboo and rice, and feels nice and rough as it sloughs away dry winter skin. "It's the ubiquity of olive oil that I love so much," says Alison, "from its use in folklore remedies to its exalted role in anointing Olympians or as an anti-aging solution for queens and pharaohs." $58, welcometowondervalley.com.

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BOOK THIS

A 19th-Century Villa in Downtown Oaxaca

An executive suite at Pug Seal Oaxaca.Juan de Dios López Hernández

By Max Pearl

T Contributor

The colonial city of Oaxaca has always been one of Mexico's artistic wellsprings. It's the birthplace of Rufino Tamayo, one of the country's most important 20th-century painters, and its creative heritage dates back to the pre-Columbian era. Over the last decade or so, the city has welcomed a fresh influx of artists and designers who are attracted to its easygoing pace, spacious interiors and proximity to the surrounding mountains — and with them, a new wave of restaurants, cocktail bars and hotels, among them the 20-room Pug Seal Oaxaca, which opened late last year. Situated in a 19th-century villa in the heart of the city's downtown, and just a few blocks from the Baroque Oaxaca Cathedral, it offers rooms with marble tile floors and walls painted in rustic brush strokes of pale blue, burnt orange and golden yellow, along with Art Deco-inspired furniture. Each one opens onto the property's courtyard, whose walls are covered in exuberant pastel murals by the artist Rafael Uriegas, with motifs inspired by the myths of the region's Zapotec people. Though Pug Seal's restaurant and bar remain closed because of the pandemic (with the exception of breakfast, a vegetarian-friendly spread of contemporary Mexican dishes like hibiscus-flower omelets and green enchiladas with huitlacoche), the hotel's central location means a host of top-notch local culinary institutions are within walking distance, including Las Quince Letras and Pitiona, both of which offer outdoor seating. Rooms start at about $150 per night, pugseal.com.

WEAR THIS

Retro Sneakers Perfect for Spring

Clockwise from top left: Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine.com; Gucci, matchesfashion.com; Loewe, net-a-porter.com; Adidas x Wales Bonner, saks.com; Re/done, shopredone.com.Clockwise from top left: Celine; Matchesfashion; Net-a-porter; Saks Fifth Avenue; re/done.

By Angela Koh

In my home state, Oregon, sneakers are a big deal. It's where Nike was founded in the '60s, and where Adidas has kept its U.S. headquarters since the late '90s — and so I've always had an affinity for sporty footwear. That's why it was particularly fun to see so many retro-style sneakers on the spring 2021 runways. As part of his men's collection for Celine, Hedi Slimane launched the Z Trainer, a calfskin high-top inspired by the basketball shoes of the '80s and '90s and available in black and white as well as in stark white, along with the CT-02, which comes in a range of graphic colorways, including one in red, white and blue and another in metallic gold and red (women's sizing debuted last week). Then there were the '70s-style nylon running sneakers — in bright yellow, crimson and pastel pink — released by Re/Done, the California-based brand best known for making jeans from vintage Levi's. Loewe's Jonathan Anderson also channeled that era with a new crop of Ballet Runners, which have an elastic cuff around the ankle that makes them part dance shoe and part track shoe. Meanwhile, Adidas teamed up with the British brand Wales Bonner to release a low-top Samba inspired by Jamaican styles worn in the '70s that features a raw-cotton upper with light brown leather trim and hand-stitched detailing. With the latest New York Fashion Week having just ended, I can't help but recall this time last year, when I was in Europe running from show to show: Any of these shoes would have been a practical, and stylish, choice.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Martin Brûlé's Art Deco-Inspired Residence

In Martin Brûlé's main living space, a Carlo Bugatti Mosque chair beside an Art Deco secretaire.Angela Hau

When the designer Martin Brûlé first saw his apartment in New York's Beaux Arts building, the entrance was a cramped passageway that led to a kitchen covered in Formica ("very '90s Home Depot," he says) followed by a small sitting room intercepted by awkward soffits. But at the end of that sitting room was a single large casement window that, if you stood at the correct angle, perfectly framed the iconic steel spire of the Chrysler Building. In undoing some of the apartment's more undesirable features, he found the freedom to experiment, creating a respite that recalls not only New York's Jazz Age but the '80s-era reinterpretation of Art Deco, which blended minimalism with monochromatic flair. In the main living space, pictured here, a Carlo Bugatti Mosque chair sits beside an Art Deco secretaire. For more, read Tom Delavan's full story at tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: What job sites reveal about the economy

Plus, the fight over online piracy.

What job sites reveal about the economy

Simone Noronha

This software sales job isn't really in Remote, Ore., a tiny town 200 miles south of Portland. This internship isn't either. This job is probably not in Remote, Mich., a place that doesn't appear to exist.

When the pandemic hit and millions of Americans left physical workplaces, some employers left blank the location fields in online job listings or filled in "remote." Career websites' computer systems still went through the motions of tying a do-from-anywhere job to a city and state.

That's how, as Brian Feldman wrote in the BNet newsletter a few days ago, Remote, Ore., seems to have become America's job capital.

This is a relatively trivial example of computers not being as smart as we'd like. But there's something profound here, too. Career websites reflect the collective mood of millions of American job seekers and companies. If you want a glimpse at our complicated feelings about work during and after the pandemic, job search sites are a good place to start.

I talked about this with Julia Pollak, a labor economist at the career website ZipRecruiter, who told me that she had a window onto how quickly Americans' work preferences changed at the beginning of the coronavirus crisis. She noticed a mismatch between what employers and the rest of us want.

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In the last year, Pollak said, the most common job search term by far on ZipRecruiter has been — you probably can guess — remote work or similar terms. There has been a big increase. For every 100 searches for remote work before the pandemic, now there are 330, Pollak said.

She said that many don't want remote work to be temporary. In ZipRecruiter's surveys of job seekers, 45 percent of respondents indicated that they preferred to find a job that would let them work from home after the pandemic is over. (An article on Wednesday from my colleagues cited similar survey results.)

To give job hunters what they were looking for, ZipRecruiter completely reprogrammed its computer systems to try to parse whether job listings that offered remote work were intended to be jobs from anywhere temporarily or permanently.

I'll add an important reminder: The debate about whether remote work will become permanent is only about a fraction of jobs. About one in four Americans who worked outside the home in July 2020 had done at least some work remotely in the prior four weeks because of the pandemic.

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That means three-quarters of American workers aren't doing their jobs from home, and working from anywhere will not be the reality for most Americans. (The added wrinkles are whether remote work means doing a job away from the workplace five days a week or occasionally, and whether employees or companies make that choice.)

But for the types of work that might be done remotely, there is a mismatch. A significant percentage of job hunters are saying that they want to work remotely. Employers aren't sure they want that. Career websites are seeing this tug of war firsthand.

Job postings have indicated that while initially many employers didn't want to commit to letting people work from anywhere forever, that's starting to change. "We're seeing a gradual shift to more and more jobs that can be done remotely that are listed as such," Pollak said.

ZipRecruiter now classifies about 8 or 9 percent of job postings as permanent work from home jobs, up from about 2 percent before the pandemic. The job listing websites Monster and LinkedIn also told me that remote jobs are still a fraction of open positions but have sharply increased.

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The career sites' computer systems are starting to adapt to job seekers' desire for more flexible work. The human bosses will still have the last word.

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The fight over online piracy

Some people have long complained that copyright law is being abused to protect people and companies from accountability.

This is one of the longest running debates over the internet, and I don't know how to resolve it. But I wanted to chew it over as an example of the high-stakes fights over internet expression that most of us don't often think about.

Vice News has recently reported on several instances of police officers playing songs on their phones while bystanders record interactions with them. Civil rights activists have said that they believe this is an effort to ensure that the videos will be taken down from websites like Instagram and YouTube.

Many internet companies have automated systems that block people from posting material that contains popular songs or movie clips. Sites like Google and Facebook also handle billions of requests each year from people, organizations and companies big and small to remove material that they say belongs to them and that they didn't give permission for others to post.

This is all in response to a 1998 law, the Digital Millennium Copyright Act, which requires online companies to remove copyrighted material. There are many gripes about how the law has played out.

Big entertainment companies in particular frequently say that the law and the ways that internet companies enforce it are too lax about pulling down material that they believe is improperly posted online. They also don't like having to make so many requests to enforce their copyrights.

As we've seen from Vice's reporting, some digital rights activists and smaller fish in music and entertainment effectively say the opposite — that internet companies' copyright policing too often errs in ways that protect powerful institutions or removes newsworthy information from the public record.

Writing laws is difficult. The DMCA shows that it's even harder for laws related to the internet to both keep up with people's fast-changing habits and get enforcement right.

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Before we go …

  • When being online is your job: My Times Opinion colleagues made a short film chronicling the demands on internet celebrities in China who livestream their every move. Related: Taylor Lorenz wrote about the new bureaucracy building around professional internet stars.
  • Fancy exercise classes for cheap: My colleague Brian X. Chen tried to create the experience of a Peloton-style internet-connected indoor bicycle without spending big bucks. Don't miss the awkward moment when Brian's barbell routine was interrupted by a YouTube ad for soap.
  • A homage to internet desserts: Eater's fun history of decorative cakes said that the creative desserts now swarming Instagram and other social media sites are "a trend fueled by quarantine baking, but inspired by everything from the Instagram- and Pinterest-famous bakeries of South Korea to the video game Animal Crossing."

Hugs to this

Gurdeep Pandher makes incredible videos of his Bhangra dances. His latest is a celebration of his coronavirus vaccination filmed on a frozen lake.

We want to hear from you. Tell us what you think of this newsletter and what else you'd like us to explore. You can reach us at ontech@nytimes.com.

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