2021年3月17日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

An exhibition of new work from Doug Meyer, sugar-free hibiscus water — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we're sharing things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

BOOK THIS

A Boutique Hideaway in Southern California

Left: the entryway of the Cara, which features a travertine and limestone tiled floor. Right: each room offers a view of the property's courtyard.Maura Grace

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

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Nestled in the foothills of Griffith Park in the Los Feliz neighborhood of Los Angeles is the Cara, a 60-room boutique hotel that calls to mind an idyllic Mediterranean getaway. Once the site of a 1950s-era motel, the property underwent an extensive 18-month renovation in 2019 and now includes a grand whitewashed tower that's host to a magnificent lobby with olive and cream travertine and limestone tiles. The rooms — which are decorated in a soothing palette of beige and ivory — feature either breezy patios or balconies and are stocked with JuneShine hard kombucha and coffee from the nearby cafe Maru. Each terrace faces the central courtyard, a serene, palm-shaded space with a pool at its center and 100-year-old olive trees at either end. Lest guests forget that they are, in fact, in California, though, at the hotel's namesake restaurant and bar the chef Michael Patria serves dishes — such as watermelon and tomato gazpacho, and ceviche made with snapper sourced from the waters near Santa Barbara — that prioritize sustainable produce from local farms. Rooms from $299, carahotel.com.

DRINK THIS

A Tart, Sugar-Free Drink From an Art Enthusiast

Ruby currently offers an unsweetened hibiscus water and a lightly sweetened iteration. Emma Swanson

By Nikki Shaner-Bradford

T Contributor

Of all the quarantine hobbies out there, the one occupying art world veteran Noah Wunsch might be the most unusual. Determined to curb his sugar cravings (Wunsch has an unrelenting sweet tooth), he discovered the zero-calorie, high-antioxidant properties of hibiscus water and began concocting his own formula in his New York kitchen, taste-testing each batch with his family while they stayed at home. The resulting beverage, Ruby, which launches this month, is as beautiful in color (a deep shade of red) as it is bright and tangy in taste. It's also fair trade, organic and sustainably packaged, and, perhaps most importantly for Wunsch, contains no sugar — or only a very slight amount (the brand currently offers two versions: the original, which is absolutely sugar-free, and a lightly sweetened iteration, with others to come). Sugar addiction has as much to do with marketing as it is a chemical response, notes Wunsch, referring to the way sweet treats and sodas are typically packaged (in flashy wrappers and bottles), and "we really wanted to play with the idea that fun can be more than just sweet." This is where Wunsch's love of art and design came in handy: To further instill the brand with a sense of joy, the Ruby team created the Rubyverse, an experience that extends beyond the bottle to include fantastical illustrations depicting a hibiscus forest filled with wide-eyed characters called Shmees by the Berlin-based artist Sharmila Banerjee, and a newsletter with recommended articles, music, books and more. But the most enticing part of Ruby is its crisp hibiscus flavor: delightful, refreshing and perfect for spring. From around $4, ruby.fun.

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COVET THIS

Timeless Bags Designed to Endure

Left: Savette's Symmetry 19 bag in smooth calfskin, price on request. Right: Savette Pochettes, price on request.Courtesy of Savette

By Angela Koh

This week, the handbag designer Amy Zurek, whose résumé includes stints at the Row, Coach and Khaite, launched her own brand: Savette. Its inaugural collection consists of three geometric styles — there's a structured rectangle, a soft oval and one that is a perfect blend of the two — with hardware designed after Modernist sculpture and jewelry that comes in silver or gold. Zurek regards each piece as a kind of heirloom, and was inspired by the strong women in her family: Savette is the maiden name of her mother, whose refined style informed the look of the line (her favorite bag to carry was a deep blue Hermès Kelly). Zurek's maternal grandmother had an extensive jewelry collection that her granddaughter would rummage through, while Zurek's paternal grandmother was a seamstress with a keen eye for construction and pattern making, skills that the designer inherited. Each bag is handmade by a family of third-generation artisans outside Florence who use high-quality, sturdy leather that's considered an alternative to box leather, which has traditionally been favored by heritage saddle and leather goods houses but is vulnerable to scratches. The collection's neutral color palette — black, brown, tan and white — adds to its timeless appeal. What's more, each bag has a three-way convertible strap and can be worn as a cross-body, a shoulder bag or, if you tuck the strap inside, a short handle bag. As Zurek notes, "They give you a heritage luxury sensibility with a modern twist." Price on request, savette.com.

SEE THIS

The Futuristic Bunkers of Doug Meyer

From left: Doug Meyer's "Diva" (2020) and "Nativity Play Tower" (2021).Photos: Mark Roskams. Courtesy of the artist

By Rima Suqi

T Contributor

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The artist Doug Meyer, known for his popular "Cameo" series, recently debuted "Wyldlands": an imagined resort town filled with florescent surrealist buildings in miniature. (The pieces range from 13 to 24 inches tall.) Set in the year 2037, in Arizona's Sonoran desert, the installation — currently on view at Daniel Cooney Fine Art in New York — imagines a future where pandemics are the norm and elites have constructed a safe haven, called Wyldlands, to which they can slip away and live out their fantasies without risk of infection. Look closely at each of the 15 wildly exuberant mixed-media sculptures and you'll notice that these playful buildings — one is modeled after a goldfish, with bulging eyes and glittering fins, another after a bird, its plumage a cotton-candy pink — are, in fact, bunkers, their middles hollowed out to house tiny figurines of people either in pods or in complete isolation. Meyer began creating the structures a year ago, in the early days of lockdown, when he felt struck by the emptiness of the streets and the feelings of solitude he experienced as he walked the eight blocks from his New York City apartment to his studio. "We didn't know much about Covid-19," he recalls. "And as the pandemic evolved, the bunkers evolved. People started forming pods, so I added figures to show how we're all living in our own little bubbles." Working with wood, plaster, epoxy, resin and plexiglass, he also added such tiny details as flowers, trees and even vintage-style glass eyes. While the culminating works are dystopian in concept, there's something strangely uplifting about their madcap vibrancy. "Wyldlands" is on view at Daniel Cooney Fine Art through May 8, 508 West 26th Street, New York, danielcooneyfineart.com.

WEAR THIS

Genderless Summer Dressing Is Here

Looks from LOolios's new Landscape collection.Ali Sharaf

By Gage Daughdrill

The Saudi Arabian-born, Madrid-based designer Faisal AlFadda founded LOolios last year with the idea of making beautiful genderless garments inspired by the work of masterful artists from the 19th and 20th centuries, such as Henri Matisse, Joan Miró and Vincent van Gogh. The label's summer Landscape collection, which launched this month, was also born from a road trip that AlFadda took, not long before lockdown, from the south of Spain to the north of Portugal. Easy to wear, and ideal for the coming months, the pieces include comfy sweatsuits in pale blue, powder pink and mint green; perfectly tailored khaki pants; crisp white button-downs; and T-shirts embroidered with delicate floral motifs. (The brand also recently debuted a line of denim.) A highlight of the collection — which on the whole is colorful yet subdued — is the idyllic, hand-painted landscape prints by AlFadda that adorn many of the silhouettes and were inspired by scenes from his trip. His designs speak to our need to feel emboldened by the world around us. As AlFadda sees it, fashion is about "uniting art and the human in a completely personal way, and without obvious distinctions of gender." loolios.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

#TEyeCandy: Bold Blooms

An arrangement by the Australian florist Hattie Molloy.Courtesy of Hattie Molloy

With spring just around the corner, we went in search of inspiring floral design and found an assortment of avant-garde arrangements, from the Australian florist Hattie Molloy's colorful compositions to the Japanese ikebana master Azuma Makoto's botanical sculptures. To see them all, visit our Instagram.

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On Tech: What the U.S. missed with Google

Newly revealed memos show that government investigators saw red flags in Google's behavior a decade ago.

What the U.S. missed with Google

Jinhwa Oh

Did the U.S. government miss opportunities to rein in Google? Five months ago, I posed that question in this newsletter. Newly revealed documents suggest that the answer is yes.

On Tuesday, Politico published articles based on previously unseen internal memos from an Obama-era government investigation into whether Google abused its power to squash competition and hurt Americans. The Federal Trade Commission concluded in early 2013 that Google's behavior didn't break the law. However, the company agreed to change some of its business practices.

Reading the documents with the benefit of hindsight, I was struck that investigators saw red flags in Google's behavior, but were divided over whether they should or could do anything about it. Currently, three antitrust lawsuits are pending against Google, and the government now cites some of the same warning signs the investigators saw as evidence of the company's illegal monopoly power.

Could the downside of Google's influence over online advertising and digital information been avoided if the government had put more guardrails on areas of behavior that some people at the F.T.C. had found worrisome nearly a decade ago?

Let me walk through three points or questions I have from this trove of Google documents:

The roots of current cases against Google:

Of the three antitrust lawsuits now pending against Google, I'll focus on two: First, the Department of Justice says that Google used business deals with Apple and Android smartphone companies to cement its hold on our digital lives. And a group of U.S. state attorneys general claimed that Google hobbled online specialists in areas like home repair services and travel reviews.

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The funny thing about the current government lawsuits is that much of the behavior is old news. Not everything. But a lot. That was clear before, but the F.T.C. documents made that undeniable. (The Wall Street Journal also got part of one of these documents in 2015.)

The Politico documents show fear within the F.T.C. in 2012 that Google would use its money and power to ensure that its search box had a prominent position on smartphones and expand its digital dominance. That's essentially what the U.S. government (and the European Union) now say that Google did. Google has said the government's claims have no merit.

And based on interviews and emails from executives at Google and other companies, government staffers found that Google promoted its own products — and in some cases demoted identical online information from competitors — because it helped Google's bottom line. Again, that's a behavior at the heart of one of the state lawsuits.

In a blog post, Google said the documents backed up the company's view that its behavior most likely benefited consumers.

What if?

I wondered what might have been if Uncle Sam had made different choices nearly a decade ago — and many times before and since.

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What if in 2012 the F.T.C. economists hadn't downplayed the possibility that Google could use money and coercion to lock in its power on smartphones? Would a different choice by the agency have changed the direction of the smartphone industry and the internet? Would you be reading this newsletter on your Amazon or Mozilla phone, and would that be an improvement?

Nearly a decade ago, some members of the F.T.C. staff were disturbed to find that Google pulled information from websites including Amazon, TripAdvisor and Yelp — even when those companies demanded it stop — to make its own web search results more compelling. The staff wrote that the behavior signaled to everyone on the internet that Google could do whatever it liked.

What if the government had sought then to stop Google's bullying? Similarly, what if the government had forced Google to open its search results to outsiders? Today, if you search for Niagara Falls hotels or a pediatrician nearby, Google mostly shows information it has collected, rather than listings from TripAdvisor and ZocDoc, which may be more helpful. U.S. government staff were concerned about that behavior, too.

Those choices led to the internet we have today. It's one in which Google has made itself the first and last stop for many internet searches. In an alternate history, maybe we'd have more and better online options.

Is it pointless to play "what if"?

Wishing for a different internet doesn't mean the government should twist the law to make it happen.

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The Politico documents show that people at the F.T.C. in 2012 believed that the law wasn't on the government's side in some cases, or that what Google was doing might have squashed rivals but also made search results and the web better for us. The same might be true today.

The F.T.C. staff members also aren't soothsayers who could have predicted how online competition would turn out.

With the benefit of hindsight, though, it is hard not to wonder how the internet economy might be different and less dominated by giants today if the government had sought to change Google's business practices then.

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Before we go …

  • A middle ground on Uber drivers' contractor status: Uber and similar "gig economy" companies have fought efforts to make them treat their couriers as conventional employees. My colleague Adam Satariano writes that Uber retreated from a hard line stance in Britain after losing a major legal case and will provide drivers in the country a minimum wage, vacation pay and some other benefits.
  • What happens to virtual learning tech? My colleague Natasha Singer writes about the technologies for remote learning that might stick around when in-person education returns widely.
  • Wikipedia wants to get paid: Wired reported on Wikipedia trying to keep a free option for most of us and create a paid version for commercial users like Google.

Hugs to this

How did I not know about Squishmallows before now?! My colleague Taylor Lorenz dug into the brightly colored stuffed animal/pillow type things that people collect, display and hug.

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