2021年5月12日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Vitamin C serums, luminous blush — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. This week, to coincide with the publication of our Beauty & Luxury issue, T staffers and contributors highlight the products and trends they're most excited about this spring. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Vitamin C Serums for Radiant-Looking Skin

From Left: Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum, $20, naturium.com. Common Heir Vitamin C Serum, $88, commonheir.com. Sonya Dakar Ultima C Serum, $88, sonyadakar.com. Wander Beauty Sight C-er Vitamin C Concentrate, $42, wanderbeauty.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

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Skin-care experts have long suggested making vitamin C serum an integral part of our daily beauty routines. As the New York-based dermatologist Michelle Henry explains, "Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects the skin from environmental aggressors, which create free radicals that then destroy collagen." Among the most advanced offerings on the market are Sonya Dakar's Ultima C Serum ($88), a hydrating and brightening formula that contains two kinds of vitamin C, along with a touch of hyaluronic acid, which helps give skin a plump look. It also includes extracts of superfoods like goji berry, green tea and kakadu plum, a fruit native to Australia that has the highest recorded amount of vitamin C found in nature. Wander Beauty's creamy Sight C-er Vitamin C Concentrate ($42) also contains kakadu plum extract, blended with an oil-soluble form of vitamin C thought to be more gentle on sensitive skin; squalane, to lock in moisture; and hyaluronic acid. As it is exposed to oxygen over time, vitamin C can lose its efficacy. With this in mind, Angela Ubias and Cary Lin of Common Heir packaged their jellylike Vitamin C Serum ($88), which is infused with soothing licorice root and conditioning rice bran extract, in single-use biodegradable capsules that dissolve in hot water. Kakadu plum makes yet another appearance, alongside pineapple, papaya and mango extracts, in Naturium's Vitamin C Complex Serum ($20), a wallet-friendly option with 22 percent L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of the nutrient. While it's best to use these serums in the morning, to better shield your skin against aggressors that it may encounter throughout the day, they don't protect against UV rays, says Henry, who recommends pairing them with an SPF. To that end, I personally love EltaMD's UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46 ($37).

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Wellness Tablets Inspired by Eastern Medicine

From left: Hao Life's Balancing Act and Got Game supplements.Courtesy of Hao Life

By Nikki Shaner-Bradford

T Contributor

Though Danielle Chang and William Li grew up oceans apart — in Taiwan and New York City's Chinatown, respectively — the friends and co-hosts of PBS's "Lucky Chow" series, which celebrates Asian cuisine, share a heritage of herbal remedies passed down through traditional Chinese medicine. Their latest project, the Hao Life, which launches this week, simplifies the time-consuming process of preparing one's own tinctures, which can involve boiling herbs for hours, by concentrating ingredients into daily superblend tablets. Made in collaboration with the Chinese medicine practitioner David Melladew and certified by the Natural Products Association, the supplements — as in traditional Chinese medicine — are each meant to target one of five organs (the liver, heart, spleen, lungs or kidneys) with the intention of boosting chi energy and maintaining harmony between the body, mind and spirit. Balancing Act (for women) and Got Game (for men) aid the kidneys — believed to be the center of sexual health — by smoothing out hormonal fluctuations at any age. Breathing Room, designed to support the lungs and immune system, is a version of the astragalus root brew Li's mother used to boil during cold and flu season. Mind Unwind, meanwhile — a mix of reishi, coral lily bulb and jujube seeds — nourishes the heart, where the body's spirit is thought to reside, easing stress and anxiety. Come Clean, for detoxifying the liver, and Gut Feelings, which promotes digestion through the spleen, can be taken regularly to maintain overall well-being, or after a gluttonous meal. Beyond offering supplements, the partners also want to share their wider philosophy of wellness. "Hao" is the Chinese word for "good," and for Chang, living a long and fulfilling life means "maintaining balance and harmony through all of its many stages." From $88, thehaolife.com.

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Blushes That Promise Luminosity

Clockwise from left: Saie Dew Blush in Dreamy, $22, saiehello.com. Sisley-Paris Le Phyto-Blush in Rosy Fuchsia, $80, sisley-paris.com. Hermès Rose Hermès Silky Blush, Rose Plume, $77, hermes.com. Vapour Aura Multi Stick in Intrigue, $36, vapourbeauty.com. LYS Beauty Higher Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush in Baked Coral, $16, sephora.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Sean Caley Newcott

T Contributor

With warm weather and immunizations upon us, we can expect to begin safely putting our best faces forward in the months ahead. For me, the goal is a radiant yet natural look, and my go-to product is blush. This season, the best rouges are blendable, buildable and, above all, luminous. For a subtle glow, try Hermès's Rose Hermès Silky Blush Powder ($77), which delivers a lovely, long-lasting, semi-matte pink to any complexion and comes in eight shades (my favorite is Rose Plume). For a bolder pop of color, there's Sisley's Le Phyto-Blush in Rosy Fuchsia ($80), which melts into one's cheeks to create a velvety look that starts out sheer but can be layered to achieve a deeper, more dramatic tone. LYS Beauty's Higher Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush ($16), meanwhile, is free of parabens, talc and fragrance, and is available in six richly pigmented shades, such as Inspire, a baked coral terra-cotta. Then there's the all-in-one Aura Multi Stick from Vapour ($36), which can be applied to your cheeks, lips and eyes and is perfect if you're on the go. It contains sunflower oil, frankincense, myrrh and lotus, which work together to hydrate and calm the skin. Another easy-to-apply option, Saie's hydrating, water-based Dew Blush ($22) comes with its own doe foot applicator for dabbing onto the cheekbones, and contains mulberry, elderberry and evening primrose extracts to address discoloration and dryness. Dreamy, a light berry hue, and one of the four available shades, painlessly recreates the effect of pinching one's cheeks for an instant flush.

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A New Documentary and Fragrance From Dior

Left: the perfumer François Demachy. Right: Dior La Collection Privée Eden-Roc, dior.com.Courtesy of Parfums Christian Dior

By Caitie Kelly

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François Demachy, the perfumer behind Christian Dior's fragrances since 2006, is now the subject of a documentary. "Nose," directed by Arthur de Kersauson and Clément Beauvais and available on Amazon Prime, follows Demachy over the course of two years, pulling back the curtain on the process of sourcing ingredients and producing perfumes. The film travels from coastal Ireland, where beachcombers hunt for ambergris, to a patchouli farm in Sulawesi, Indonesia, revealing the global nature of perfumery. But its primary aim, according to Demachy, is to show the many individuals behind each scent, "from the people who plant the flowers to the ones who harvest them; from those who transform them into absolutes to the ones who mix them (like myself). This human dimension is one of the most important aspects of the industry to me," he says. Between filming, Demachy worked on several other projects, including the new perfume Eden-Roc, inspired by the famously luxurious hotel in Antibes, France, for which it's named, and made in collaboration with the property's general manager, Philippe Perd; its operations manager, Laurent Van Hoegaerden; and Jérôme Pulis, the international communications director for Parfums Christian Dior. "I tried to interpret the feeling you have when you are there," Demachy says. A note of jasmine is meant to conjure the hotel's garden, while the hints of salty sea air are a homage to the surrounding ocean and the warm blend of coconut and mastic evokes the image of sunbathers resting on the terrace. Dior La Collection Privée Eden-Roc, $250, dior.com.

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7 Hair Detoxes and Scalp Treatments

From left: Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Tea Tree Cooling Hydration Scalp Mask, $32, sephora.com. MonPure Hydrate and Soothe Scalp Serum, $130, monpure.com. R+Co Teacup Peacholine + Kombucha Detox Rinse, $32, randco.com. Sachajuan Scalp Scrub, $50, dermstore.com. Philip B Peppermint Avocado Scalp Scrub, $75, philipb.com. Christophe Robin Regenerating Serum With Prickly Pear Oil, $51, christopherobin.com. Innersense Organic Beauty Detox Hairi Mask, $30, innersensebeauty.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Thessaly La Force

Lately, I've started to assess not just whether I need a haircut to face the world again (that's a yes) but also whether my hair itself needs a proper detox. Simply washing with shampoo and conditioner doesn't seem to be enough. "A hair detox essentially removes buildup — the accumulation of cosmetic ingredients on the hair shaft — from conventional shampoos, conditioners and styling products," say Greg and Joanne Starkman, the founders of the organic hair-care line Innersense, whose new Detox Hair Mask ($30), made with charcoal, kaolin clay and white vinegar, can help restore lackluster-looking locks. In a similar vein, Briogeo's Scalp Revival mask ($32), also made with charcoal — and with tea tree, peppermint and spearmint oils to cool the skin — is recommended for use in between your shampoo and conditioner. For more dehydrated hair, R+Co offers a Peacholine + Kombucha Detox Rinse ($32) that helps draw out bad minerals and restore shine. To get to the root of the problem, Philip B's Peppermint Avocado Scalp Scrub ($75), made with sea salt crystals and soothing arnica extract and witch hazel, works well to clear your head of the sebum that accumulates over time. "Sebum is a great natural conditioner," says the Hollywood hair specialist, "but it's also heavy and waxy and can build up on your scalp, blocking hair follicles, interfering with optimal hair growth and causing inflammation." The cult-favorite Swedish brand Sachajuan offers a similar scrub, though its version is infused with the line's custom blend of algae extracts, which increases elasticity and hydration. For those whose scalps are itchy, irritated or sunburned, there's MonPure's Hydrate and Soothe Scalp Serum (about $135). And if you need a little boost after such a thorough wash, Christophe Robin's Regenerating Serum ($51), with its ever-popular prickly pear oil — which is rich in antioxidants and amino acids — helps combat frizz and heat damage, adding luster and shine.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Minimal Makeup Looks for Men — or Anyone

A still from Raisa Flowers's tutorial on how to create a dewy skin and a bold eye.Justin French

As part of T's Beauty & Luxury issue, the writer Megan O'Grady explores what makeup means to the growing group of men who have embraced it. Her piece is accompanied by photos of models with faces done by the makeup artist Raisa Flowers, who, in a bid to make such adornment less intimidating, breaks down her process in a pair of video tutorials, demonstrating what she calls two "simplistic and masculine" looks that readers can, she hopes, easily replicate at home. In one video, she shares tips for creating dewy skin accented with a vivid swipe of color across the lids, and in another, she realizes a more classically glamorous visage with shimmery purple eye shadow and translucent tinted lip balm. The overall effect of both styles is a kind of high-impact minimalism tempered with subtle playfulness. To watch the tutorials, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: Inside Jeff Bezos’s obsessions

Amazon has had a boss with big ideas and incredible persistence. That hasn't always been helpful.

Inside Jeff Bezos's obsessions

Alvaro Dominguez

How can you tell when the bullheaded and micromanaging boss who trusts his intuition is just nuts, and when he's nuts but right?

That's a question I had after reading "Amazon Unbound," a new book about Jeff Bezos and the last decade or so at Amazon by Brad Stone, a journalist and a former colleague of mine.

In Stone's telling, Bezos is a font of big ideas, and he badgers staff, nitpicks over details and is willing to devote gobs of time and money to make his visions a reality. That has often paid off with novel and effective technologies like the voice-recognition assistant Alexa and the company's cashier-less Go convenience stores.

But other things at Amazon have failed or floundered because of Bezos's relentless pursuit of his ideas. That tendency plagued Amazon's now dead Fire smartphone, and it was a shadow over its Prime Video streaming service and its ground beef made from just one cow. (Don't worry, I will come back to this.)

The company likes to say that everything at Amazon begins with what the customer wants and works backward. But one inescapable conclusion from reading "Amazon Unbound" is how much Amazon is a product of Bezos's will and his responses to competitive challenges or criticisms.

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And it isn't necessarily easy to diagnose at what point that was good for Amazon, its customers, its employees and the world — and when Bezos's belief in himself seemingly got in the way. It will be interesting to see what happens now that Bezos is scheduled to leave his chief executive post.

Stone digs deep into the origins of Alexa and the company's Echo speakers. In an email 10 years ago, Bezos told his lieutenants that Amazon "should build a $20 device with its brains in the cloud that's completely controlled by your voice." He refused to let his vision for this product go, even when the development cost a fortune and the voice technology was badly flawed for years. Apart from that $20 price, Echo and Alexa are just how Bezos imagined.

At other times Bezos's visions led Amazon down the wrong path. The Fire phone was a bad idea at the wrong time, and its failure was largely Bezos's fault. In one detail, Stone writes that a staff member had to assure Bezos that, yes, people used digital calendars on their phones. He also insisted on 3-D cameras for the device that were glitch-prone and gimmicky.

The same thing happened with that ground beef. After reading a 2015 Washington Post article about why hamburger patties are often made from tissues mixed from as many as a hundred cows or more, Bezos became obsessed with making a single cow burger that people could buy only from the Amazon Fresh grocery service.

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Amazon Fresh did sell single cow burgers — they're out of stock now — but it wasn't a world-changing idea as Bezos had hoped. Like the Fire phone, it might have just been a waste of time and energy.

I posed two questions to Stone: When have Bezos's ideas and his relentlessness to pull them off been helpful, and when have those same qualities led Amazon astray? And has it been good or bad for Amazon to be guided by one person and his obsessions?

Stone told me that Bezos believes Amazon is in a unique position to do difficult, expensive and big things, and he wants to push against employees' natural resistance to hard changes. His instincts aren't infallible, but Bezos has been right a lot, he said.

"The countervailing force," Stone said, is that the world's richest person "doesn't really live among us anymore. His personal taste in burgers and technology don't always represent the common taste."

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Bezos has often said that failures are inevitable and even welcome. They show that Amazon isn't afraid to try bold things.

But while reading Stone's book, I wondered if Amazon's failures weren't always the result of noble swings at big ideas but sometimes because of blind spots: a lack of self-reflection and a corporate culture that resists standing up to Bezos.

Stone writes that many employees who worked on the Fire phone had serious doubts about it, but it seemed that no one was willing to fight the boss. Stone's book recounts numerous executives who were driven out of Amazon, including some who challenged Bezos or ways in which the company operated.

There may be an alternative version of Amazon that is less reliant on Bezos's vision and self assurance. It might be worse, or it might be an even more successful company that's better for customers, its employees and the world. And with a new chief executive, maybe we'll get to find out. But I suspect Amazon will continue to be the Bezos show.

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Before we go …

  • The government might help pay your internet bill. To help get more Americans online, the Federal Communications Commission is now offering people with lower incomes or those who lost their jobs in the coronavirus pandemic a temporary subsidy of $50 a month for internet access, my colleague Cecilia Kang reported. The Washington Post also has details on how to sign up.
  • A con or playing with identity and authenticity? A young woman had tens of thousands of people on Twitter following her travels on motorcycles. Then the person behind the account confessed that he was a 50-year-old man using an app to alter his face, The Washington Post wrote. His followers (and his children) loved him even more.
  • Have you seen online videos of gross food like toilet ice cream punch? Eater wrote that many of them are carefully crafted pranks by a group of people affiliated with a Las Vegas magician named Rick Lax.

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