2021年5月13日 星期四

On Tech: The Apple and Amazon side hustles

The companies say they always do what's best for us, but their advertising businesses suggest otherwise.

The Apple and Amazon side hustles

Kiel Mutschelknaus

On Tech will be taking a long weekend to recharge. See you on Tuesday.

Both Apple and Amazon collect cash from companies that want to pitch their products to us. Let me make the case that these side hustles are icky conflicts of interest that hurt us — and ultimately these tech titans, too.

Here's what I mean: Try typing "dog beds" into the search box on Amazon. You might assume that Amazon will show you what it considers to be the very best dog beds. But actually the first options you'll see are most likely from companies that paid Amazon to appear directly in front of your eyeballs. They're advertisements in semi-disguise. Amazon tags these listings as "sponsored," and once you start to notice them you realize that these advertised products are everywhere.

Apple does this, too. Try searching for "fitness" in the iPhone app store. The first option might be a workout app that appears in a shaded blue box. Again, it's an ad. (Android app stores tend to do this, too.)

Amazon and Apple preach their obsession with doing the best things for customers, but these advertising businesses aren't really about us at all.

Advertising is not unusual or necessarily bad. The New York Times and many other reputable companies make money from ads. But I'd argue that what Apple and Amazon are doing is different from almost all other advertising.

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Google, Facebook and The Times don't usually show you ads and sell you the advertised product. The dog bed company pays Amazon to make sure that its products are listed prominently so that people will buy them from Amazon.

In the companies' defense, there are some other advertising businesses that are also closed loops. Kellogg's might pay the supermarket to make sure that its cereal boxes are at eye level on the store shelf. That's similar to what Apple and Amazon do. (Though the supermarket is not valued at more than $1.5 trillion, as both Apple and Amazon are.)

When companies pay Amazon and Apple to get noticed, that likely trickles down in the form of higher product or app prices for us. You might say that all advertising is annoying and a tax on consumers. But on Apple and Amazon, we're there to pay for an app or product anyway. The ads are simply a toll for choosing one dog bed or fitness app over another.

When Amazon takes money from a dog bed company in exchange for making it the first item we see, that's not necessarily the best dog bed. It may not even be a good dog bed. Showing that ad is definitely good for Amazon and often for the merchant as well. But it's much harder to make the case that it's good for us. Ditto for Apple and its app advertisements.

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Amazon knows this. My colleague Karen Weise has reported on the fierce debate inside Amazon about whether paid product commercials would erode customers' trust. Jeff Bezos made the final call that showing ads might make things a little worse for Amazon shoppers but that the extra money would help the company invent amazing new things for customers.

Bezos' assessment of short-term pain for long-term gain might be right. Or maybe he just got excited about the money.

Apple has argued that online advertising that tracks its users is an invasion of our privacy and declared a war with Facebook over ads. The company also wants to go bigger in selling advertising. (Apple says that its ads are less invasive than those of other companies.)

Let me propose an alternative for Amazon and Apple. Instead of grabbing for more cash with paid commercials, what if the companies improved their products and made more money that way?

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It's been a big problem for years that Apple's app store is a sea of options and that makes it hard for people to discover something new that might interest them. Paid app promotions that don't surface the best apps are not the right answer. At Amazon, it sometimes feels as if the company doesn't know how to make a nice place for people to shop easily. Ads are not the answer. They may be making things worse.

I recently went looking for a pulse oximeter on Amazon and searched for a specific brand. I was overwhelmed and turned off by how many ads I saw for what seemed to be shady knockoffs. I gave up. Amazon lost a potential sale because its store can feel like an unruly mess, and its paid commercials are part of the problem.

Maybe there should be a Golden Rule for rich and powerful tech titans: Just because a company can make money doing something, doesn't mean that it should.

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Before we go …

  • A cryptocurrency craze is becoming fuel for on-court trash talk: A new type of virtual trading cards featuring basketball highlights has engrossed some of the athletes, too. My colleague Kellen Browning explains N.B.A. players' infatuation with the online marketplace Top Shot.
  • Big Tech backlash is partisan: I read two U.S. senators' books about antitrust law so you don't have to. Politicians on opposite ends of the political spectrum agree that America's tech giants have too much influence, and they're urging a return to citizen engagement in fighting against the consolidation of industries.
  • Our bodies were not made to use computers: Vice News traced the long history of humans breaking from using computers. "There was really no precedent in our history of media interaction for what the combination of sitting and looking at a computer monitor did to the human body," Vice News writes.

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2021年5月12日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Vitamin C serums, luminous blush — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. This week, to coincide with the publication of our Beauty & Luxury issue, T staffers and contributors highlight the products and trends they're most excited about this spring. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Vitamin C Serums for Radiant-Looking Skin

From Left: Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum, $20, naturium.com. Common Heir Vitamin C Serum, $88, commonheir.com. Sonya Dakar Ultima C Serum, $88, sonyadakar.com. Wander Beauty Sight C-er Vitamin C Concentrate, $42, wanderbeauty.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

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Skin-care experts have long suggested making vitamin C serum an integral part of our daily beauty routines. As the New York-based dermatologist Michelle Henry explains, "Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects the skin from environmental aggressors, which create free radicals that then destroy collagen." Among the most advanced offerings on the market are Sonya Dakar's Ultima C Serum ($88), a hydrating and brightening formula that contains two kinds of vitamin C, along with a touch of hyaluronic acid, which helps give skin a plump look. It also includes extracts of superfoods like goji berry, green tea and kakadu plum, a fruit native to Australia that has the highest recorded amount of vitamin C found in nature. Wander Beauty's creamy Sight C-er Vitamin C Concentrate ($42) also contains kakadu plum extract, blended with an oil-soluble form of vitamin C thought to be more gentle on sensitive skin; squalane, to lock in moisture; and hyaluronic acid. As it is exposed to oxygen over time, vitamin C can lose its efficacy. With this in mind, Angela Ubias and Cary Lin of Common Heir packaged their jellylike Vitamin C Serum ($88), which is infused with soothing licorice root and conditioning rice bran extract, in single-use biodegradable capsules that dissolve in hot water. Kakadu plum makes yet another appearance, alongside pineapple, papaya and mango extracts, in Naturium's Vitamin C Complex Serum ($20), a wallet-friendly option with 22 percent L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of the nutrient. While it's best to use these serums in the morning, to better shield your skin against aggressors that it may encounter throughout the day, they don't protect against UV rays, says Henry, who recommends pairing them with an SPF. To that end, I personally love EltaMD's UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46 ($37).

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Wellness Tablets Inspired by Eastern Medicine

From left: Hao Life's Balancing Act and Got Game supplements.Courtesy of Hao Life

By Nikki Shaner-Bradford

T Contributor

Though Danielle Chang and William Li grew up oceans apart — in Taiwan and New York City's Chinatown, respectively — the friends and co-hosts of PBS's "Lucky Chow" series, which celebrates Asian cuisine, share a heritage of herbal remedies passed down through traditional Chinese medicine. Their latest project, the Hao Life, which launches this week, simplifies the time-consuming process of preparing one's own tinctures, which can involve boiling herbs for hours, by concentrating ingredients into daily superblend tablets. Made in collaboration with the Chinese medicine practitioner David Melladew and certified by the Natural Products Association, the supplements — as in traditional Chinese medicine — are each meant to target one of five organs (the liver, heart, spleen, lungs or kidneys) with the intention of boosting chi energy and maintaining harmony between the body, mind and spirit. Balancing Act (for women) and Got Game (for men) aid the kidneys — believed to be the center of sexual health — by smoothing out hormonal fluctuations at any age. Breathing Room, designed to support the lungs and immune system, is a version of the astragalus root brew Li's mother used to boil during cold and flu season. Mind Unwind, meanwhile — a mix of reishi, coral lily bulb and jujube seeds — nourishes the heart, where the body's spirit is thought to reside, easing stress and anxiety. Come Clean, for detoxifying the liver, and Gut Feelings, which promotes digestion through the spleen, can be taken regularly to maintain overall well-being, or after a gluttonous meal. Beyond offering supplements, the partners also want to share their wider philosophy of wellness. "Hao" is the Chinese word for "good," and for Chang, living a long and fulfilling life means "maintaining balance and harmony through all of its many stages." From $88, thehaolife.com.

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Blushes That Promise Luminosity

Clockwise from left: Saie Dew Blush in Dreamy, $22, saiehello.com. Sisley-Paris Le Phyto-Blush in Rosy Fuchsia, $80, sisley-paris.com. Hermès Rose Hermès Silky Blush, Rose Plume, $77, hermes.com. Vapour Aura Multi Stick in Intrigue, $36, vapourbeauty.com. LYS Beauty Higher Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush in Baked Coral, $16, sephora.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Sean Caley Newcott

T Contributor

With warm weather and immunizations upon us, we can expect to begin safely putting our best faces forward in the months ahead. For me, the goal is a radiant yet natural look, and my go-to product is blush. This season, the best rouges are blendable, buildable and, above all, luminous. For a subtle glow, try Hermès's Rose Hermès Silky Blush Powder ($77), which delivers a lovely, long-lasting, semi-matte pink to any complexion and comes in eight shades (my favorite is Rose Plume). For a bolder pop of color, there's Sisley's Le Phyto-Blush in Rosy Fuchsia ($80), which melts into one's cheeks to create a velvety look that starts out sheer but can be layered to achieve a deeper, more dramatic tone. LYS Beauty's Higher Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush ($16), meanwhile, is free of parabens, talc and fragrance, and is available in six richly pigmented shades, such as Inspire, a baked coral terra-cotta. Then there's the all-in-one Aura Multi Stick from Vapour ($36), which can be applied to your cheeks, lips and eyes and is perfect if you're on the go. It contains sunflower oil, frankincense, myrrh and lotus, which work together to hydrate and calm the skin. Another easy-to-apply option, Saie's hydrating, water-based Dew Blush ($22) comes with its own doe foot applicator for dabbing onto the cheekbones, and contains mulberry, elderberry and evening primrose extracts to address discoloration and dryness. Dreamy, a light berry hue, and one of the four available shades, painlessly recreates the effect of pinching one's cheeks for an instant flush.

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A New Documentary and Fragrance From Dior

Left: the perfumer François Demachy. Right: Dior La Collection Privée Eden-Roc, dior.com.Courtesy of Parfums Christian Dior

By Caitie Kelly

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François Demachy, the perfumer behind Christian Dior's fragrances since 2006, is now the subject of a documentary. "Nose," directed by Arthur de Kersauson and Clément Beauvais and available on Amazon Prime, follows Demachy over the course of two years, pulling back the curtain on the process of sourcing ingredients and producing perfumes. The film travels from coastal Ireland, where beachcombers hunt for ambergris, to a patchouli farm in Sulawesi, Indonesia, revealing the global nature of perfumery. But its primary aim, according to Demachy, is to show the many individuals behind each scent, "from the people who plant the flowers to the ones who harvest them; from those who transform them into absolutes to the ones who mix them (like myself). This human dimension is one of the most important aspects of the industry to me," he says. Between filming, Demachy worked on several other projects, including the new perfume Eden-Roc, inspired by the famously luxurious hotel in Antibes, France, for which it's named, and made in collaboration with the property's general manager, Philippe Perd; its operations manager, Laurent Van Hoegaerden; and Jérôme Pulis, the international communications director for Parfums Christian Dior. "I tried to interpret the feeling you have when you are there," Demachy says. A note of jasmine is meant to conjure the hotel's garden, while the hints of salty sea air are a homage to the surrounding ocean and the warm blend of coconut and mastic evokes the image of sunbathers resting on the terrace. Dior La Collection Privée Eden-Roc, $250, dior.com.

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7 Hair Detoxes and Scalp Treatments

From left: Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Tea Tree Cooling Hydration Scalp Mask, $32, sephora.com. MonPure Hydrate and Soothe Scalp Serum, $130, monpure.com. R+Co Teacup Peacholine + Kombucha Detox Rinse, $32, randco.com. Sachajuan Scalp Scrub, $50, dermstore.com. Philip B Peppermint Avocado Scalp Scrub, $75, philipb.com. Christophe Robin Regenerating Serum With Prickly Pear Oil, $51, christopherobin.com. Innersense Organic Beauty Detox Hairi Mask, $30, innersensebeauty.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Thessaly La Force

Lately, I've started to assess not just whether I need a haircut to face the world again (that's a yes) but also whether my hair itself needs a proper detox. Simply washing with shampoo and conditioner doesn't seem to be enough. "A hair detox essentially removes buildup — the accumulation of cosmetic ingredients on the hair shaft — from conventional shampoos, conditioners and styling products," say Greg and Joanne Starkman, the founders of the organic hair-care line Innersense, whose new Detox Hair Mask ($30), made with charcoal, kaolin clay and white vinegar, can help restore lackluster-looking locks. In a similar vein, Briogeo's Scalp Revival mask ($32), also made with charcoal — and with tea tree, peppermint and spearmint oils to cool the skin — is recommended for use in between your shampoo and conditioner. For more dehydrated hair, R+Co offers a Peacholine + Kombucha Detox Rinse ($32) that helps draw out bad minerals and restore shine. To get to the root of the problem, Philip B's Peppermint Avocado Scalp Scrub ($75), made with sea salt crystals and soothing arnica extract and witch hazel, works well to clear your head of the sebum that accumulates over time. "Sebum is a great natural conditioner," says the Hollywood hair specialist, "but it's also heavy and waxy and can build up on your scalp, blocking hair follicles, interfering with optimal hair growth and causing inflammation." The cult-favorite Swedish brand Sachajuan offers a similar scrub, though its version is infused with the line's custom blend of algae extracts, which increases elasticity and hydration. For those whose scalps are itchy, irritated or sunburned, there's MonPure's Hydrate and Soothe Scalp Serum (about $135). And if you need a little boost after such a thorough wash, Christophe Robin's Regenerating Serum ($51), with its ever-popular prickly pear oil — which is rich in antioxidants and amino acids — helps combat frizz and heat damage, adding luster and shine.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Minimal Makeup Looks for Men — or Anyone

A still from Raisa Flowers's tutorial on how to create a dewy skin and a bold eye.Justin French

As part of T's Beauty & Luxury issue, the writer Megan O'Grady explores what makeup means to the growing group of men who have embraced it. Her piece is accompanied by photos of models with faces done by the makeup artist Raisa Flowers, who, in a bid to make such adornment less intimidating, breaks down her process in a pair of video tutorials, demonstrating what she calls two "simplistic and masculine" looks that readers can, she hopes, easily replicate at home. In one video, she shares tips for creating dewy skin accented with a vivid swipe of color across the lids, and in another, she realizes a more classically glamorous visage with shimmery purple eye shadow and translucent tinted lip balm. The overall effect of both styles is a kind of high-impact minimalism tempered with subtle playfulness. To watch the tutorials, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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