2021年5月19日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Phoebe Boswell's latest exhibition, an Ayurvedic spa in Santa Monica — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

BOOK THIS

An Ayurvedic Spa Along the California Coast

Left: a Surya treatment room, inspired by traditional Indian architecture. Right: a wall of 300 Ayurvedic herbs.The Ingalls

By Molly Creeden

T Contributor

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When the Proper Hotel opened in Santa Monica, Calif., in 2019, its mix-and-match furnishings and earthy tones, by Los Angeles-based interior designer Kelly Wearstler, underscored a sense of relaxed sophistication. Now, in collaboration with Martha Soffer, founder of the wellness brand Surya, the property has debuted its 3,000-square-foot flagship Ayurvedic spa. The addition comprises six serene treatment rooms, each painted in hues that correspond to the body's three doshas (or energies): There's vata (yellow), believed to govern the body's physical and mental activity; pitta (blue), digestion and metabolism; and kapha (red), the immune system. Appointments begin with a pulse reading to determine a client's dominant dosha, after which treatment plans — including massages, meditation sessions and other therapeutic practices — aim to restore harmony to the mind, body and spirit. Among the spa's many offerings is the panchakarma, a series of detoxifying meals and treatments, the latter of which last four hours a day, and can be booked for up to 28 consecutive days. The package includes abhyanga, a hot oil massage in which four hands work in perfect choreography to soothe tension and leave skin looking youthful, and shirodara, in which herbalized oil infusions are poured in a gentle stream over the forehead. For guests who may have less time to spare, Ayurvedic scrubs, steams and deep-tissue massages are also offered. "This is part of my dharma," says Soffer. "It's what I love doing." properhotel.com.

TRY THIS

New Single-Origin Spices From Diaspora Co.

From left: Diaspora Co.'s wild ajwain, byadgi chili and wild heimang sumac.Product photos: Melati Citrawireja

By Thessaly La Force

Two years ago, I wrote about Diaspora Co., an Oakland, Calif.-based direct-to-consumer company founded by Sana Javeri Kadri, who wanted to shake up the spice trade after realizing that spices could be given the single-origin treatment in the same way as coffee or chocolate. Her first offering — a potent, earthy turmeric — was a hit. Today, Diaspora now carries over 15 different spices, ethically sourced from either India or Sri Lanka, and offers their farmers at least double to six times the commodity price (they're also aiming to provide health insurance to all of their farming partners by the end of the year). Launching today are three new spices, including a wild heimang sumac, which Javeri Kadri discovered through Hill Wild, who sourced the berry from farmers living in the Manipuri village of Ningthi, just east of the Burmese border. "It has these black tea notes," says Javeri Kadri. "It's sour, a little bitter and wonderfully complex." Sumac is ideal for everything from mussakhan, a Palestinian-style roast chicken with caramelized onions, to dusting atop your avocado toast. While you're at it, try Diaspora's new wild ajwain (otherwise known as carom seeds, which have well-known health benefits) or byadgi chili, which is "more for color or sweetness than heat," says Javeri Kadri, who suggests treating it almost like a paprika. And if you're in need of cooking inspiration, Diaspora now also features recipes, from a massaman curry to strawberry crumble cardamom bars. From $12, diasporaco.com.

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SEE THIS

The Work of Phoebe Boswell, Made in Lockdown

Left: Phoebe Boswell's "Notes on a Lockdown: Ever Present Danger" (2021). Right: "Notes on a Lockdown: I Just Want to Be Touched Again (After 'Isolation Fascination,' 2020 #elizabethilsey Via @jerrysaltz via @girlsonprn)" (2021).Courtesy of the artist and Sapar Contemporary

By Will Fenstermaker

T Contributor

Before the pandemic, the London-based Kenyan artist Phoebe Boswell spent much of her time drawing portraits of fishermen who, within her body of work, represent the fictional ancestors of a futuristic utopia located off the coast of Zanzibar, once Africa's largest eastern slave port. "I was thinking about how difficult it is to imagine the future," she says, "to imagine freedom. We're so confined to our own lived experience." As the world went into lockdown last year, Boswell — who is at risk for severe illness from Covid-19 — found herself wrestling with an uncertain, and unknowable, future. To cope, she began drawing self-portraits and other works based on images she either posted to or saw on social media, as well as painting vignettes of scenes taken from her walks to and from her studio, documenting her time in isolation. "Still Life: A Taxonomy of Being," on view at New York City's Sapar Contemporary through June 12, compiles all 49 of these works. In one, Boswell sketches an image that was originally posted to Instagram by the art critic Jerry Saltz of two people embracing with the words "I just want to be touched again." In another, a yellow electrical box, rendered in watercolor, contains a label reading "Ever Present Danger." And a video titled "Notes on a Pandemic" (2021) plays sounds of heavy breathing and coughing, yet another marker of this long, harrowing year. "Still Life: A Taxonomy of Being" is on view through June 12 at Sapar Contemporary, 9 North Moore Street, New York, N.Y. 10013, saparcontemporary.com.

BUY THIS

Ulla Johnson's Debut Swimwear Collection

A look from Ulla Johnson's 2021 swim collection.Courtesy of Ulla Johnson

By Alexa Brazilian

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This week, the New York-based fashion designer Ulla Johnson is taking her signature earthy prints and breezy bohemian vibe to the beach with the launch of her first line of swimwear, cover-ups and warm-weather accessories. There's a maillot-style suit with string-thin straps that delicately crisscross at the back, a flossy bikini and a one-strap two-piece with high-waisted bottoms, among others. All of the pieces come in a series of tie-dye and in-house prints culled from the designer's pre-fall ready-to-wear-collection inspired by Japanese Komon kimono fabrics, which are known for their fine patterns. To match, there are sarong skirts and light cotton cover-ups along with natural-toned platform espadrilles, a straw tote with hand-braided leather handles and a bottle-shaped basket bag made for carrying your sundowner of choice. From $110, ullajohnson.com.

COVET THIS

Wooden Housewares by Korean Artisans

Left: the artist Choi Sung Woo's hand-carved Ginkgo Leaf servers. Right: Kim Min Wook's Fluted Persimmon Tree vase.Drew Escriva

By Natalia Rachlin

T Contributor

The idea for Namu Home Goods, a new line that sells handcrafted woodwork by artisans from Korea, came to the Los Angeles-based entrepreneur Diana Ryu while she was lying on an acupuncturist's bed, with needles scattered across her face and body. "The art world in America is a Eurocentric space," she says, "and so is home décor." Determined to change that, Ryu launched Namu, which means "tree" in Korean, late last month with a range of elegant, one-of-a-kind offerings, from moon jars to charred-oak plates to tiny two-pronged forks. Notable pieces include artist Choi Sung Woo's delicate Ginkgo Leaf servers, a pair of hand-carved spoons made from Korean birch whose spindly handles lead to a wider surface that resembles the namesake plant. Then there's Kim Min Wook's sculptural fluted vase, the vessel's form made from the wood of a persimmon tree. Meanwhile, a series of small, footed dishes carved out of black walnut by the craftsman Heum Namkung are minimalist, austere but also playful. Though wood remains a central tenet of the brand, Ryu's next project, a collaboration with her husband, the artist and actor Joseph Lee, is a limited-edition print of a solitary branch in hues of umber and putty. namuhomegoods.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Pierre Yovanovitch's Foray Into Furniture Design

Pierre Yovanovitch's Flint armchair and Flare floor lamp. Giulio Ghirardi

The French interior architect Pierre Yovanovitch founded his design practice in 2001 and has been creating elegant environments inspired by nature ever since. Now, after years of designing bespoke pieces for various interior projects, he's unveiling a furniture line, Pierre Yovanovitch Mobilier. Consisting of 45 pieces, including lighting and accessories, that incorporate silk, hemp, mohair and draw on the designer's roots in Provence, the inaugural collection will be on display starting tomorrow in the historic Académie de l'Architecture building in Paris's Place des Vosges. To see more from the collection, visit us on Instagram.

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On Tech: Should Alexa read our moods?

The time to debate the power of voice technology is now. (Before Alexa starts suggesting comfort foods.)

Should Alexa read our moods?

Maria Chimishkyan

If Amazon's Alexa thinks you sound sad, should it suggest that you buy a gallon of ice cream?

Joseph Turow says absolutely no way. Dr. Turow, a professor at the Annenberg School for Communication at the University of Pennsylvania, researched technologies like Alexa for his new book, "The Voice Catchers." He came away convinced that companies should be barred from analyzing what we say and how we sound to recommend products or personalize advertising messages.

Dr. Turow's suggestion is notable partly because the profiling of people based on their voices isn't widespread. Or, it isn't yet. But he is encouraging policymakers and the public to do something I wish we did more often: Be careful and considerate about how we use a powerful technology before it might be used for consequential decisions.

After years of researching Americans' evolving attitudes about our digital jet streams of personal data, Dr. Turow said that some uses of technology had so much risk for so little upside that they should be stopped before they got big.

In this case, Dr. Turow is worried that voice technologies including Alexa and Siri from Apple will morph from digital butlers into diviners that use the sound of our voices to work out intimate details like our moods, desires and medical conditions. In theory they could one day be used by the police to determine who should be arrested or by banks to say who's worthy of a mortgage.

"Using the human body for discriminating among people is something that we should not do," he said.

Some business settings like call centers are already doing this. If computers assess that you sound angry on the phone, you might be routed to operators who specialize in calming people down. Spotify has also disclosed a patent on technology to recommend songs based on voice cues about the speaker's emotions, age or gender. Amazon has said that its Halo health tracking bracelet and service will analyze "energy and positivity in a customer's voice" to nudge people into better communications and relationships.

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Dr. Turow said that he didn't want to stop potentially helpful uses of voice profiling — for example, to screen people for serious health conditions, including Covid-19. But there is very little benefit to us, he said, if computers use inferences from our speech to sell us dish detergent.

"We have to outlaw voice profiling for the purpose of marketing," Dr. Turow told me. "There is no utility for the public. We're creating another set of data that people have no clue how it's being used."

Dr. Turow is tapping into a debate about how to treat technology that could have enormous benefits, but also downsides that we might not see coming. Should the government try to put rules and regulations around powerful technology before it's in widespread use, like what's happening in Europe, or leave it mostly alone unless something bad happens?

The tricky thing is that once technologies like facial recognition software or car rides at the press of a smartphone button become prevalent, it's more difficult to pull back features that turn out to be harmful.

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I don't know if Dr. Turow is right to raise the alarm about our voice data being used for marketing. A few years ago, there was a lot of hype that voice would become a major way that we would shop and learn about new products. But no one has proved that the words we say to our gizmos are effective predictors of which new truck we'll buy.

I asked Dr. Turow whether people and government regulators should get worked up about hypothetical risks that may never come. Reading our minds from our voices might not work in most cases, and we don't really need more things to feel freaked out about.

Dr. Turow acknowledged that possibility. But I got on board with his point that it's worthwhile to start a public conversation about what could go wrong with voice technology, and decide together where our collective red lines are — before they are crossed.

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Before we go …

  • Mob violence accelerated by app: In Israel, at least 100 new WhatsApp groups have been formed for the express purpose of organizing violence against Palestinians, my colleague Sheera Frenkel reported. Rarely have people used WhatsApp for such specific targeted violence, Sheera said.
  • And when an app encourages vigilantes: Citizen, an app that alerts people about neighborhood crimes and hazards, posted a photograph of a homeless man and offered a $30,000 reward for information about him, claiming he was suspected of starting a wildfire in Los Angeles. Citizen's actions helped set off a hunt for the man, who the police later said was the wrong person, wrote my colleague Jenny Gross.
  • Why many popular TikTok videos have the same bland vibe: This is an interesting Vox article about how the computer-driven app rewards the videos "in the muddled median of everyone on earth's most average tastes."

Hugs to this

Here's a not-blah TikTok video with a happy horse and a few happy pups.

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