2021年6月2日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Priyanka Chopra Jonas's beauty routine, a wine and ice cream bar opens in Paris — and more.

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STEP BY STEP

Priyanka Chopra Jonas's Beauty Regimen

Far left: Priyanka Chopra Jonas. Products, clockwise from top left: 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Eye Cream, $300, 111skin.com. Anomaly Deep Conditioning Treatment Mask, $7, target.com. Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum, $300, drsturm.com. Bio-Oil Skincare Oil, $9, amazon.com. Max Factor Colour Elixir Lipstick, $18, amazon.com. Diptyque Rich Butter for the Body, $90, diptyqueparis.com. Kilian Paris Forbidden Games, $240, bykilian.com.Portrait: Mariano Vivanco. Products: Courtesy of the brands.

Interview by Caitie Kelly

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For this month's installment of the T List's beauty column, which details the products and treatments that creative people swear by, Priyanka Chopra Jonas speaks about her daily routine.

I used to be very naïve about skin care. I just didn't know all of the products you could use to make your skin look and feel its best. Now, I wash my face with Obagi's Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser. To moisturize, hydrate and brighten my skin, I use a combination of Dr. Barbara Sturm and 111Skin products. I swear by both of these brands. I love Dr. Barbara Sturm's Hyaluronic Acid Serum and Face Cream, and 111Skin's Vitamin C Brightening Booster and Celestial Black Diamond Eye Cream. Dr. Barbara Sturm's Sun Drops are great for sun protection. For my hair, I have two shampoos and two conditioners that I alternate between. The reason we created Anomaly (a line of hair-care products that launched this past February) is that your hair tells you what it needs. When I use a lot of product in my hair, I'll wash it with the Clarifying Shampoo, but if it feels dry and in need of hydration, I'll use the Hydrating Shampoo. Then I use the Smoothing Conditioner or, if I have time, the Deep Conditioning Treatment Mask, which I leave in for about 10 minutes. It smells amazing. I also like a little bit of the Dry Shampoo at the crown for some oomph. My go-to body cleanser is Diptyque's Revitalizing Shower Gel for Body and Hair. I also have a scrub that a friend of mine makes at home — it's completely natural, with vanilla, sugar and glycerin, and leaves my skin feeling fresh. After that, I mix Bio-Oil in with Diptyque's Rich Butter for the Body, which has a light fragrance, and massage it into my skin. When I'm not working, I don't wear a lot of makeup, but I always brush on a bit of mascara — I feel like my eyes are dead without it. I'm very specific about the ones I use, and I recently discovered Max Factor's Masterpiece Max High Volume and Definition Mascara. It's amazing — it gives your lashes length but it isn't clumpy. I also use the brand's Colour Elixir Lipstick in Mulberry. I dab a little bit of it on my cheeks and am good to go. For fragrance, I change my perfume when I play different roles. The character I'm shooting now wears Valentino Donna's Born in Roma Eau de Parfum, but I've also been using Kilian Paris's Forbidden Games. A spritz of perfume and I'm done.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

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A Parisian Parlor Serving Ice Cream and Wine

Folderol, in Paris's 11th arrondissement, is a new parlor-cum-bar offering a selection of natural wines and ice cream.Vincent Desailly

By Sara Lieberman

T Contributor

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For Robert Compagnon and Jessica Yang-Compagnon, the couple behind the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Rigmarole, ice cream and wine are "the epitome of pleasure," says Compagnon. It's a sentiment that inspired their latest venture, Folderol, a 430-square-foot parlor-cum-bar in Paris's 11th arrondissement that specializes in both delicacies. While the pair didn't realize they'd be opening a business during a global pandemic, the timing worked in their favor: They purchased the property — which now features a central horseshoe-shaped counter, exposed stone walls and checkered ceramic floors — in July 2019, but it needed work, so in the interim they continued to collect natural wines from small producers and to perfect their ice cream recipe. Since their machine only makes five liters of the dessert at a time, they were able to play around, concocting seasonal scoops such as clementine creamsicle and wild pairings like sesame brownie. Their 15 or so flavors can be enjoyed in a homemade waffle cone, a cup or taken to go in a prepackaged carton stamped with their Pacman-like logo. As Covid-19 restrictions ease, they plan to turn the space into a full-service bar where Parisians can pull up a stool to indulge while socializing. 10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 75011 Paris, folderol.com.

VISIT THIS

Ashya Opens in Brooklyn

Left: Ashya co-founders Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece. Right: their leather Passport Bolos hang in the new shop.Adrienne Raquel

By Jane Gayduk

T Contributor

This spring, Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece, co-founders of the unisex travel accessories brand Ashya, opened their first store, an intimate retail space that doubles as a design studio, in South Brooklyn's Industry City. It's a fitting base for the two creative directors, who met over a decade ago while attending the city's Fashion Institute of Technology, and whose luxurious handbags, belt bags and passport bolos are made by local artisans from materials sourced from Italy and Spain. To coincide with the store's opening, the duo released a small collection of handbags, offering their most coveted styles (such as the Bolo bag and the Shema sling-back) in rich new hues like pistachio and sunset. These silhouettes, along with the Cedar Valley Multi and Palmetto Mini, can be worn a variety of ways — as a belt, necklace or crossbody. Similar to their previous collections, themes of exploration and identity return, ideas that are at the center of the brand. Cimone and Annece started Ashya in 2017, a few years after taking a trip to India together. The pair has since made it part of their mission to "share stories around Black, Brown and Indigenous cultures," says Annece, which involves photographing lookbook campaigns in far-flung corners of the globe, such as the Island of Saint Helena, the Blue Mountains in Jamaica and the sacred Indian city of Kancheepuram. From $190, ashya.co.

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Jenny Holzer's Garden of Poems

A detail of Jenny Holzer's installation "Per Ama" (2021) at Castello di Ama in Tuscany. The stone is engraved with lines from Patrizia Cavalli's poem "Essere Animale per la Grazia."Artwork © 2021 Jenny Holzer, member of Artists Rights Society (ARS), NY. Photo: Lucie Leca. Text © 2006 by Giulio Einaudi Editore. Used with permission of the author and the publisher.
Author Headshot

By Laura Rysman

T Contributor

This month, the conceptual artist Jenny Holzer — known for her stark text-based pieces that appear on billboards, electric signs, building facades and other public spaces — will unveil a new work at the Chianti vineyard of Castello di Ama in Tuscany. "Per Ama," the title of the piece, is one of the property's 17 site-specific installations — alongside work by artists including Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor, Michelangelo Pistoletto and Daniel Buren — that are strewn throughout the 200-acre estate. (The property also hosts a cluster of 18th-century stone villas that house a winery, a restaurant and an assortment of guest accommodations that can be booked for an idyllic countryside retreat.) Set on a slope by the vineyards, Holzer's artwork is a garden that comprises a field of yellow everlasting flowers, paddle cactuses and mulberry trees enveloping a pond in which two large stones, each engraved with lines of poetry, are submerged. Scrawled on one is a verse from Merwin's "The Biology of Art": "After a long time as water you look up." On the other are lines from the Italian poet Patrizia Cavalli's "Essere Animale per la Grazia." As Holzer tells me, the curry-scented blooms that punctuate the grounds are meant to heighten the immersive experience of the piece, and the trees are "of the sort drawn by Van Gogh." While Holzer's work is generally more exclamatory, "Per Ama" is much quieter, offering viewers the time and space to reflect not only on the words carved into stone but all that surrounds them. castellodiama.com.

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Yuzefi's Debut Ready-to-Wear Collection

Looks from Yuzefi's fall 2021 collection.Gwen Trannoy

By Gage Daughdrill

The London-based fashion designer Nazanin Yousefi founded Yuzefi, an accessories line offering bold and sophisticated handbags in versatile styles, in 2016. This week, she's extending the brand with an inaugural ready-to-wear collection that effortlessly infuses traditional silhouettes with modern flair. Pieces include perfectly tailored separates, dresses with cheeky accents and an eye-catching trench coat with exaggerated sleeves and plenty of pockets (four, to be exact). Throughout the collection — which on the whole comes in neutral hues of beige, black and wine (with the occasional pop of olive or iris) — subtle refinements allow pieces to be modified by the wearer: Meticulously placed ties, for instance, can be fastened to a blazer to add length and dimension, and straps on the side of a dress can be pulled to shorten it and create ruching. "Versatility is what I think about when designing," says Yousefi, who wants her clients "to have ownership of their style." Other recurring statement-making details include wide collars and broad shoulders reminiscent of those from the '80s, along with intriguing cutouts that allow for unexpected glimpses of skin. What's more, the brand prioritizes sustainability, using dead-stock wool blends, linens and certified recycled vegan leathers. yuzefi.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Prospect Park, Captured by Irina Rozovsky

An image from Irina Rozovsky's monograph "In Plain Air," published by Mack Books in March 2021.Courtesy of the artist and Mack Books

When Prospect Park was proposed in 1859, Brooklyn officials envisioned its 526 acres of woods, meadows, lake and sloping hills as one day becoming "a favorite resort for all classes of our community" — an open-air escape for the diverse collection of bordering neighborhoods. This resonated for the Moscow-born, American-raised photographer Irina Rozovsky as she took her first boat ride in the park's lake in 2011. Looking toward the shore, she saw people from all cultures celebrating, lounging, fishing, sharing embraces, marking rites of passage and performing rituals of exercise or religion. Here, unlike anywhere else she'd visited in New York, the clock seemed to stop. She joined the panorama of individuals before her in what she describes as a shared moment of sublimity — "the same lazy instant" — and, soon after leaving, returned with her camera. For the next almost-decade, she wandered along the park's meandering paths, capturing the scenes she encountered along the way. Rozovsky, who lives in Athens, Ga., where she runs the photography space the Humid with her husband, the photographer Mark Steinmetz, last returned to make pictures of Prospect Park in February 2020, just before the pandemic would transform it into a more sobering sanctuary. Shown here is one of the images of the park now included in her third monograph, "In Plain Air," which was published by Mack Books. To see more from the series, follow us on Instagram.

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On Tech: Silicon Valley’s meh middle

We miss out when we ignore the companies that are neither clear winners nor flat-out disasters.

Silicon Valley's meh middle

Sally Thurer

The Silicon Valley myth doesn't leave much room for companies that are neither raging successes nor spectacular flameouts. But to fully understand the tech industry and ensure that its goals don't go off the rails, we need to talk more about the companies that are in the meh middle.

You probably know the myth I'm referring to. There are wild stories of companies that started from almost nothing and grew up to become Apple, Facebook or Uber. Then there are the horror stories of start-ups that burned bright and spectacularly flopped like the first iteration of the office rental start-up WeWork and the blood testing company Theranos.

Those polar opposites are the start-ups that people write books and make movies about. The untouchables and the unforgivables are the images that we hold in our minds of technology companies.

But most of life isn't success or failure, it's the mushy in-between, and this applies to most start-ups, too. There exists a vast middle ground of overlooked young tech companies that are definitely not winners but are not losers, either.

I'm talking about companies like Dropbox, Box and Cloudera that were once hot enough to be on the covers of business magazines and have survived but hardly set the world on fire. They are not whales nor are they minnows. Dropbox, a digital file-storage service, is worth about as much as Levi Strauss.

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Buying their stock didn't make a bunch of people super rich. Cloudera, which sells software for businesses to wrangle their data, agreed on Tuesday to sell the company for a share price that was far less than what a big investor paid when Cloudera was a relatively young start-up in 2014. Dropbox and Box, also a business software company, are worth roughly the same or below what they were on the days they went public in 2018 (Dropbox) and 2015 (Box). These companies' technologies either proved to be not super relevant or they were supplanted by something better.

There are lots of start-ups that took off during the post-financial crisis tech boom, earned oohs from techies and got tons of money thrown at them, had initial public offerings and then … eh. They're fine. Others were sold or quietly disappeared.

(One caveat: I would have put Square in the meh middle until the past year or so, when its technology, including digital storefronts for small businesses, proved vital during the coronavirus pandemic. That shows that companies can sometimes quickly shift from meh to great, or from meh to dead.)

The problem is that people in and around technology are happy to blare about companies, THIS IS GOING TO BE HUGE, and then hardly mention them when they don't become stars.

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Ignoring the meh middle should matter to all of us for two reasons. First, it is a missed opportunity to understand what went right and what went wrong. I joked on Twitter that there should be a Midas List for meh, referring to the annual Forbes rankings of the most successful start-up investors. And why not? People and companies who didn't live up to the hype might have lessons for us.

And second, excluding the middle distorts the picture of Silicon Valley and reflects a harmful tendency to consider anything short of a world-changing idea barely worth noticing. This creates a perverse incentive to overhype anything new and overlook start-up ideas that might result in worthy but unspectacular companies.

I wish that just OK received more attention. Shooting for the moon in Silicon Valley can lead to Google and Facebook. It can also lead to WeWork and Theranos. I don't want meh to be the goal, but I also wish that the in-between weren't so invisible.

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Before we go …

  • From Public Enemy No. 1 to enlightened tech patron: Entrepreneurs once called the Chinese internet giant Tencent a brazen copycat. But the company behind the do-everything WeChat app revamped its image by "throwing money at the little guys and buying off competitors rather than driving them out of business," my colleague Li Yuan writes. Winning friends with its checkbook has helped Tencent, for now, avoid the worst of the Chinese government's crackdown on powerful tech companies.
  • Hacking meat: Another cyberattack hobbled the world's largest meat processor, JBS, and forced nine U.S. beef plants to close. The company said that the majority of its plants would reopen on Wednesday. Also, the attack meant that America briefly didn't know how much meat cost.
  • The best stupid internet videos: Here's a list of 25 videos that Polygon said "stand the test of time and show us the internet's bizarre and limitless ability to make us live in new and completely confounding ways."

Hugs to this

Yes, this microscopic image of a blade of grass does look like it's covered in smiley faces. (The faces are called vascular bundles, and there is more information in this Twitter thread.)

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