2021年6月3日 星期四

On Tech: Amazon wants a lot of new laws

It deserves credit for taking on big issues, but what matters is that it follows through to the end.

Amazon wants a lot of new laws

Sean Dong

Amazon is on a roll suggesting big changes to U.S. laws. This could be great for many Americans and for the country, or this could be mostly talk.

Amazon has been loudly supporting a federal minimum wage of $15 an hour. The company mentioned (briefly) in a blog post in April that it was in favor of increasing the federal tax rate for corporations. Amazon wrote this week that it would be "actively supporting" a proposed federal bill to legalize marijuana. Last year, the company said that it wanted Congress to write rules for the ethical use of facial recognition technology, including Amazon's Rekognition.

Some of these policies could make a real difference in people's lives. My concern is that Amazon may want credit with the public and the policymakers for supporting these laws, but that it won't put in the concerted and sustained work required to have a real impact — except when it directly helps Amazon.

We know that companies lobby hard for or against laws that are good for their bottom lines. But when companies say that they support policies they believe can help everyone, do they devote the same money and muscle to those efforts? (And should they?)

Emily Stewart, writing for Vox's Recode, recently asked similar questions of all businesses, including the technology giants. But perhaps we should hold the tech superstars to an even higher standard because of their power over our lives and their influence on policymakers and public perception.

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Pressure from corporations can't hurt to nudge a Congress that is often gridlocked or slow to pass laws. Labor organizations have been pressing for a $15 minimum wage for years. It's possible that Amazon's advocacy might be even more effective at rallying public support and changing the law. Ditto for Facebook's relentless promotions about its support for revised U.S. internet regulations.

These companies deserve credit for taking on big issues, but what matters is that they follow through to the end. As Stewart wrote, "Vague gestures from corporations and executives are a way to smooth over real political and social issues, and to deflect deserved scrutiny."

An episode from Amazon's past also invites skepticism of its motivations in policy battles. For years, the company loudly proclaimed support for a national sales tax in the United States. Amazon knew that a national sales tax was most likely a non-starter in Congress. But Amazon's position helped in its fight against state laws to collect sales taxes on online purchases.

A national sales tax never happened. Amazon about a decade ago began to reach compromises with states to apply sales taxes. By then, the company had benefited from years of price advantages over conventional retailers.

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This bit of history shows that what Amazon said was a principled policy position was quite likely little more than a strategy maneuver.

Here are some questions that American taxpayers can pose to tech companies who are speaking up for policy changes: How is the company pushing for this law? What specific policy suggestions does it have? How much money will the company spend on lobbying for it? Will the company commit to status reports on its policy advocacy and the results?

Amazon's lobbying disclosures do indicate, without many specifics, that minimum wage issues are among the topics that the company has pressed with members of Congress. Jodi Seth, a spokeswoman for Amazon, also pointed me to the company's advertisements and opinion pieces about increasing the minimum wage, and said it's one of the few issues that involves everyone on Amazon's policy team.

I'll add one more question to my list: Why? No, the real answer. Radical candor about companies' motivations for proposed policy changes might help win confidence from lawmakers and the public.

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For Amazon, why not be frank that an increase in the minimum wage might be good for many American workers and for Amazon's business? The company may need to pay more to attract enough high-quality workers and keep them happy, and its competitors may not be able to afford higher wages.

Facebook and some other tech companies that are getting behind a national digital privacy protection law in the United States don't typically say out loud that they want more lenient rules from Congress to usurp strict laws that some states have passed.

I'm making a spreadsheet listing select policy positions taken by big tech companies. I promise to report back here periodically with what the companies have done. (And please email me with suggestions of policies proposed by tech companies that you'd like to track. Put "policies" in the subject line.)

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Before we go …

  • Facebook fights with itself: Some employees have been challenging the Facebook bosses for actions they believed helped the Indian government stifle online dissent and for removing some pro-Palestinian posts, my colleagues Sheera Frenkel and Mike Isaac report. It's the latest example of divisions between some Facebook workers who want the company to stand up to domineering governments and a policy team that handles tricky international relations.
  • It's hard to make a Silicon Valley from scratch: Rest of World looks at what has gone wrong with Kenya's effort to build a city that was imagined as a high-tech utopia for residents and a hub for tech companies. "Smart cities are not cure-alls for socioeconomic problems but rather ways to distract citizens from bigger, structural ones," the article says.
  • Meet the new king of TikTok: Khabane Lame, a 21-year-old former factory worker in Italy, has become the fastest-growing video creator on TikTok. My colleagues Jason Horowitz and Taylor Lorenz explain the appeal of his clever and relatable reaction videos. (For example, here he is horrified by Sour Patch Kid pizza.)

Hugs to this

Birds are so great. Here is a cockatiel (I think?) dancing and singing along to the piano.

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2021年6月2日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Priyanka Chopra Jonas's beauty routine, a wine and ice cream bar opens in Paris — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

Priyanka Chopra Jonas's Beauty Regimen

Far left: Priyanka Chopra Jonas. Products, clockwise from top left: 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Eye Cream, $300, 111skin.com. Anomaly Deep Conditioning Treatment Mask, $7, target.com. Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum, $300, drsturm.com. Bio-Oil Skincare Oil, $9, amazon.com. Max Factor Colour Elixir Lipstick, $18, amazon.com. Diptyque Rich Butter for the Body, $90, diptyqueparis.com. Kilian Paris Forbidden Games, $240, bykilian.com.Portrait: Mariano Vivanco. Products: Courtesy of the brands.

Interview by Caitie Kelly

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For this month's installment of the T List's beauty column, which details the products and treatments that creative people swear by, Priyanka Chopra Jonas speaks about her daily routine.

I used to be very naïve about skin care. I just didn't know all of the products you could use to make your skin look and feel its best. Now, I wash my face with Obagi's Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser. To moisturize, hydrate and brighten my skin, I use a combination of Dr. Barbara Sturm and 111Skin products. I swear by both of these brands. I love Dr. Barbara Sturm's Hyaluronic Acid Serum and Face Cream, and 111Skin's Vitamin C Brightening Booster and Celestial Black Diamond Eye Cream. Dr. Barbara Sturm's Sun Drops are great for sun protection. For my hair, I have two shampoos and two conditioners that I alternate between. The reason we created Anomaly (a line of hair-care products that launched this past February) is that your hair tells you what it needs. When I use a lot of product in my hair, I'll wash it with the Clarifying Shampoo, but if it feels dry and in need of hydration, I'll use the Hydrating Shampoo. Then I use the Smoothing Conditioner or, if I have time, the Deep Conditioning Treatment Mask, which I leave in for about 10 minutes. It smells amazing. I also like a little bit of the Dry Shampoo at the crown for some oomph. My go-to body cleanser is Diptyque's Revitalizing Shower Gel for Body and Hair. I also have a scrub that a friend of mine makes at home — it's completely natural, with vanilla, sugar and glycerin, and leaves my skin feeling fresh. After that, I mix Bio-Oil in with Diptyque's Rich Butter for the Body, which has a light fragrance, and massage it into my skin. When I'm not working, I don't wear a lot of makeup, but I always brush on a bit of mascara — I feel like my eyes are dead without it. I'm very specific about the ones I use, and I recently discovered Max Factor's Masterpiece Max High Volume and Definition Mascara. It's amazing — it gives your lashes length but it isn't clumpy. I also use the brand's Colour Elixir Lipstick in Mulberry. I dab a little bit of it on my cheeks and am good to go. For fragrance, I change my perfume when I play different roles. The character I'm shooting now wears Valentino Donna's Born in Roma Eau de Parfum, but I've also been using Kilian Paris's Forbidden Games. A spritz of perfume and I'm done.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

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A Parisian Parlor Serving Ice Cream and Wine

Folderol, in Paris's 11th arrondissement, is a new parlor-cum-bar offering a selection of natural wines and ice cream.Vincent Desailly

By Sara Lieberman

T Contributor

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For Robert Compagnon and Jessica Yang-Compagnon, the couple behind the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Rigmarole, ice cream and wine are "the epitome of pleasure," says Compagnon. It's a sentiment that inspired their latest venture, Folderol, a 430-square-foot parlor-cum-bar in Paris's 11th arrondissement that specializes in both delicacies. While the pair didn't realize they'd be opening a business during a global pandemic, the timing worked in their favor: They purchased the property — which now features a central horseshoe-shaped counter, exposed stone walls and checkered ceramic floors — in July 2019, but it needed work, so in the interim they continued to collect natural wines from small producers and to perfect their ice cream recipe. Since their machine only makes five liters of the dessert at a time, they were able to play around, concocting seasonal scoops such as clementine creamsicle and wild pairings like sesame brownie. Their 15 or so flavors can be enjoyed in a homemade waffle cone, a cup or taken to go in a prepackaged carton stamped with their Pacman-like logo. As Covid-19 restrictions ease, they plan to turn the space into a full-service bar where Parisians can pull up a stool to indulge while socializing. 10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 75011 Paris, folderol.com.

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Ashya Opens in Brooklyn

Left: Ashya co-founders Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece. Right: their leather Passport Bolos hang in the new shop.Adrienne Raquel

By Jane Gayduk

T Contributor

This spring, Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece, co-founders of the unisex travel accessories brand Ashya, opened their first store, an intimate retail space that doubles as a design studio, in South Brooklyn's Industry City. It's a fitting base for the two creative directors, who met over a decade ago while attending the city's Fashion Institute of Technology, and whose luxurious handbags, belt bags and passport bolos are made by local artisans from materials sourced from Italy and Spain. To coincide with the store's opening, the duo released a small collection of handbags, offering their most coveted styles (such as the Bolo bag and the Shema sling-back) in rich new hues like pistachio and sunset. These silhouettes, along with the Cedar Valley Multi and Palmetto Mini, can be worn a variety of ways — as a belt, necklace or crossbody. Similar to their previous collections, themes of exploration and identity return, ideas that are at the center of the brand. Cimone and Annece started Ashya in 2017, a few years after taking a trip to India together. The pair has since made it part of their mission to "share stories around Black, Brown and Indigenous cultures," says Annece, which involves photographing lookbook campaigns in far-flung corners of the globe, such as the Island of Saint Helena, the Blue Mountains in Jamaica and the sacred Indian city of Kancheepuram. From $190, ashya.co.

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Jenny Holzer's Garden of Poems

A detail of Jenny Holzer's installation "Per Ama" (2021) at Castello di Ama in Tuscany. The stone is engraved with lines from Patrizia Cavalli's poem "Essere Animale per la Grazia."Artwork © 2021 Jenny Holzer, member of Artists Rights Society (ARS), NY. Photo: Lucie Leca. Text © 2006 by Giulio Einaudi Editore. Used with permission of the author and the publisher.
Author Headshot

By Laura Rysman

T Contributor

This month, the conceptual artist Jenny Holzer — known for her stark text-based pieces that appear on billboards, electric signs, building facades and other public spaces — will unveil a new work at the Chianti vineyard of Castello di Ama in Tuscany. "Per Ama," the title of the piece, is one of the property's 17 site-specific installations — alongside work by artists including Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor, Michelangelo Pistoletto and Daniel Buren — that are strewn throughout the 200-acre estate. (The property also hosts a cluster of 18th-century stone villas that house a winery, a restaurant and an assortment of guest accommodations that can be booked for an idyllic countryside retreat.) Set on a slope by the vineyards, Holzer's artwork is a garden that comprises a field of yellow everlasting flowers, paddle cactuses and mulberry trees enveloping a pond in which two large stones, each engraved with lines of poetry, are submerged. Scrawled on one is a verse from Merwin's "The Biology of Art": "After a long time as water you look up." On the other are lines from the Italian poet Patrizia Cavalli's "Essere Animale per la Grazia." As Holzer tells me, the curry-scented blooms that punctuate the grounds are meant to heighten the immersive experience of the piece, and the trees are "of the sort drawn by Van Gogh." While Holzer's work is generally more exclamatory, "Per Ama" is much quieter, offering viewers the time and space to reflect not only on the words carved into stone but all that surrounds them. castellodiama.com.

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Yuzefi's Debut Ready-to-Wear Collection

Looks from Yuzefi's fall 2021 collection.Gwen Trannoy

By Gage Daughdrill

The London-based fashion designer Nazanin Yousefi founded Yuzefi, an accessories line offering bold and sophisticated handbags in versatile styles, in 2016. This week, she's extending the brand with an inaugural ready-to-wear collection that effortlessly infuses traditional silhouettes with modern flair. Pieces include perfectly tailored separates, dresses with cheeky accents and an eye-catching trench coat with exaggerated sleeves and plenty of pockets (four, to be exact). Throughout the collection — which on the whole comes in neutral hues of beige, black and wine (with the occasional pop of olive or iris) — subtle refinements allow pieces to be modified by the wearer: Meticulously placed ties, for instance, can be fastened to a blazer to add length and dimension, and straps on the side of a dress can be pulled to shorten it and create ruching. "Versatility is what I think about when designing," says Yousefi, who wants her clients "to have ownership of their style." Other recurring statement-making details include wide collars and broad shoulders reminiscent of those from the '80s, along with intriguing cutouts that allow for unexpected glimpses of skin. What's more, the brand prioritizes sustainability, using dead-stock wool blends, linens and certified recycled vegan leathers. yuzefi.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Prospect Park, Captured by Irina Rozovsky

An image from Irina Rozovsky's monograph "In Plain Air," published by Mack Books in March 2021.Courtesy of the artist and Mack Books

When Prospect Park was proposed in 1859, Brooklyn officials envisioned its 526 acres of woods, meadows, lake and sloping hills as one day becoming "a favorite resort for all classes of our community" — an open-air escape for the diverse collection of bordering neighborhoods. This resonated for the Moscow-born, American-raised photographer Irina Rozovsky as she took her first boat ride in the park's lake in 2011. Looking toward the shore, she saw people from all cultures celebrating, lounging, fishing, sharing embraces, marking rites of passage and performing rituals of exercise or religion. Here, unlike anywhere else she'd visited in New York, the clock seemed to stop. She joined the panorama of individuals before her in what she describes as a shared moment of sublimity — "the same lazy instant" — and, soon after leaving, returned with her camera. For the next almost-decade, she wandered along the park's meandering paths, capturing the scenes she encountered along the way. Rozovsky, who lives in Athens, Ga., where she runs the photography space the Humid with her husband, the photographer Mark Steinmetz, last returned to make pictures of Prospect Park in February 2020, just before the pandemic would transform it into a more sobering sanctuary. Shown here is one of the images of the park now included in her third monograph, "In Plain Air," which was published by Mack Books. To see more from the series, follow us on Instagram.

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