2021年6月16日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

An exhibition of work by Hurvin Anderson, silk scarves from Como — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

SEE THIS

Scenes of Jamaica, Painted by Hurvin Anderson

From left: Hurvin Anderson's "Jungle Garden" (2020) and "Flat Top" (2008).© Hurvin Anderson. Courtesy of the artist and Thomas Dane Gallery. Photos (from left): Richard Ivey; Hugh Kelly

By Megan O'Grady

T Writer at Large

ADVERTISEMENT

The British artist Hurvin Anderson is best known for his "Barbershop" series — colorful, nearly abstract paintings inspired by the parlors he visited with his father as a child — which earned him a nomination for the Turner Prize in 2017. His new show at the Arts Club of Chicago pairs a handful of these works with newer paintings made after a trip Anderson took to Jamaica, where much of his family is from, four years ago. These works depict the lush Jamaican landscape: Eruptions of foliage are rendered in shades of emerald and avocado, marigold and fuchsia, and envelop abandoned-looking structures of concrete and limestone — modern ruins hidden behind jungly overgrowth. Anderson, the youngest of eight children, was born in Birmingham (he now lives in London) and grew up listening to his family reminisce about their lives in the Caribbean before they moved to England in the 1960s. The exhibition's title, "Anywhere but Nowhere," was lifted from the Jamaican musical artist K.C. White's 1973 hit, and provides an emotional through-line, suggesting the longing and loss that keeps certain geographies alive in us, elusive havens of memory and imagination that, over time, become almost mythical. "Anywhere but Nowhere" is on view at the Arts Club of Chicago through August 7, 201 East Ontario Street, Chicago, artsclubchicago.org.

BUY THIS

Summery Scarves Made in Como, Italy

From left: M. Finley's Camille and Violette scarves.Bono Melendrez

By Angelina Venezia

T Contributor

In these scorching summer months, accessorizing can be a challenge, which is why the recent launch of M. Finley — a line of silk scarves produced in Como, Italy — by the artist Meghann Stephenson is particularly exciting. Having noticed that existing brands weren't making scarves that befit her style, Stephenson saw an opportunity to create her own: Think Hermès but with a palette and aesthetic influenced by, Stephenson says, "California's poppy super blooms and the color field paintings" of the 1950s and '60s, along with the art of Ellsworth Kelly and Katrin Bremermann. The line comprises four delicate patterns in sumptuous swirls of mauve, burnt orange, pale pink and soft white that are perfect for any season. Like Stephenson says, M. Finley scarves infuse any outfit with "playfulness, intrigue and glamour." $96, mfinleystudio.com.

ADVERTISEMENT

READ THIS

5 Books That Celebrate Emerging Artists

The inaugural set of books from Just an Idea.Yorgo & Co.

By Mimi Vu

T Contributor

When the Parisian concept shop Colette closed its doors in 2017, its co-founder and creative director, Sarah Andelman, launched a new project called Just an Idea. Its aim, says Andelman — who is known for championing emerging innovators, from a young Virgil Abloh to Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air — is to "introduce talents from around the world and to give them support to present their work." To that end, Just an Idea facilitates collaborations between big brands and fledgling designers. And it has recently ventured into the world of publishing, issuing a set of five books that each explore the vision of a different creative. The fashion designer Nicole McLaughlin, for example, transforms discarded clothing and objects into sculptural garments — from chunky shoes made of tennis balls to vests stitched together from Ziploc bags — while the Parisian florist and former art dealer Louis-Géraud Castor creates sublime floral compositions that explore the poetic shapes and forms of the botanical world. Other creatives highlighted in the collection are the novelist and artist Douglas Coupland, the Sydney-based illustrator and sneaker collector Eric Ng and the graphic designer Sho Shibuya. Andelman plans to release two sets of these books per year: "They're like a visual portfolio for each artist," she says. About $60, justanidea.com.

COVET THIS

More Than a Bench

The F04 Table Bench from Simon Barazin.Ido Adan

By Gisela Williams

T Contributing Editor

ADVERTISMENT

For the Tel Aviv-based architect Simon Barazin, the past year has been one of change. Tired of designing big commercial high-rises, he quit his firm to start his own small studio, which focuses on interiors and furniture. His most recent project, which he developed alongside graphic designers Tal Baltuch and Tom Melnick, started with a simple need: a bench that would double as a table for their shared work space. But the limited-edition F04 Bench is more than just a piece of furniture: It's also somewhat of an optical illusion. At nearly four feet long, the object is made from translucent panes of treated plexiglass (a material that reflects and refracts surrounding light) so that it emits a spectrum of technicolored shadows. Barazin — whose work plays with this idea of what's real and what isn't — is also releasing an NFT version of the piece later this year. About $2,500, simonbarazin.com.

WEAR THIS

Beachwear for the Bold

Adam Selman's Sandbar bikini top and Synchronized bikini bottom.Adam Selman

By Sean Caley Newcott

T Contributor

The designer Adam Selman isn't afraid to experiment with cut or color: His sporty yet flirty athletic wear, from his namesake label, is made with confident women in mind. So it felt like a natural extension of the brand when he debuted a swimwear collection that promises to outfit those looking forward to what the designer himself hopes to be a "wild summer." The line, which features a variety of styles — from plunging cutaway one-pieces to sporty scoop-neck bikini tops and high-waisted bottoms — comes in bright, punchy hues as well as dazzling patterns, and also includes beach towels, totes and a zipper pouch. Without sacrificing design for support or comfort, the suits are made from recycled nylon and spandex and designed with different body shapes and shades in mind. (An accessories collection of cover-ups and hats is also in the works.) "Adam Selman Swim is not for wallflowers," says the designer. "It's made for women who want to stand out." From $60, adamselman.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

The Visual Artists Inspired by 'Invisible Man'

Gordon Parks's "The Invisible Man, Harlem, New York" (1952).© The Gordon Parks Foundation

In 1952, the photographer Gordon Parks worked with Ralph Ellison to translate the writer's novel, "Invisible Man," published earlier that year, into a series of images for Life magazine. One of the photographs depicts the book's nameless narrator in his retreat beneath the city, amid the 1,369 light bulbs that, he tells the reader, "illuminated the blackness of my invisibility." In Parks's photograph, the lights are arrayed on the walls behind the figure in a modernist and rhythmic arrangement that reads as an extension of the music emanating from his two turntables (presumably Louis Armstrong, whom the narrator listens to while eating vanilla ice cream and sloe gin). The world up above — represented by tiny lights nearly swallowed up by the night — barely exists by comparison. This sort of creative overlap wasn't unusual for Ellison, who occasionally worked as a photographer himself, was steeped in the arts of his day — and whose novel proved to be a potent source of inspiration for a wide variety of artists. To read Nicole Rudick's full essay on how "Invisible Man" has influenced not just writers but photographers, sculptors and painters all grappling with what it means to be seen, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

Need help? Review our newsletter help page or contact us for assistance.

You received this email because you signed up for The T List from The New York Times.

To stop receiving these emails, unsubscribe or manage your email preferences.

Subscribe to The Times

Connect with us on:

facebooktwitterinstagram

Change Your EmailPrivacy PolicyContact UsCalifornia Notices

LiveIntent LogoAdChoices Logo

The New York Times Company. 620 Eighth Avenue New York, NY 10018

On Tech: Amazon is brilliant. Why not at H.R.?

Amazon relishes mastering the impossible. But it hasn't put the same energy into managing its work force.

Amazon is brilliant. Why not at H.R.?

Ruru Kuo

We've heard a lot of debate about whether work at an Amazon warehouse should be considered a good job or a bad one. My colleagues Jodi Kantor, Karen Weise and Grace Ashford spent months trying to answer a different question: How well does Amazon manage all those people?

What they found was that Amazon's systems for mass-managing its hourly work force are strained and uneven, resulting in high turnover of employees. I encourage you to read their deeply reported investigation, which left me wondering whether Amazon's handling of arguably its most important asset — its roughly one million employees in the United States, mostly hourly workers — is effective or sustainable for the company, let alone those people.

I spoke with Karen about what she and her colleagues learned, and where Amazon's reputation for supreme efficiency is at odds with the chaos of managing its staff.

Shira: You found that Amazon had to replace more than the equivalent of its entire hourly work force in a single year. That is stunning. Is Amazon pushing them out or are they quitting?

Karen: Both. Amazon hires so many people, often with no in-person interview and little vetting, and it loses a significant number of workers within the first couple of weeks after they're hired. We've heard of people walking out on their lunch break on their first day of orientation. That creates a tremendous amount of turnover and some chaos in the workplace.

ADVERTISEMENT

We also wrote about an employee named Dayana Santos, who had been praised by managers and then was fired for one bad day when for various reasons she wasn't consistently producing. She's someone the company should have wanted to keep. Amazon has since changed the policy that led to her firing, but the example shows that the company has built systems that cannot always effectively assess who is a capable worker.

Is the high rate of employee turnover intentional?

David Niekerk, a former Amazon vice president who built the warehouse human resources operations, said that Jeff Bezos didn't want lengthy tenure for hourly employees. Company data showed that employees became less engaged over time, and Amazon wanted people who would push to go above and beyond.

Maybe Amazon doesn't want to have so many people leave every year, but changing that is not the No. 1 priority, either. Amazon churns through so many employees that I've heard numerous Amazon leaders in Seattle describe a nagging fear that the company will run out of Americans to hire.

What does Amazon say about this?

Amazon told us that the rate of attrition of workers is just one metric that isn't relevant without context. The company didn't elaborate. Company officials didn't say that it is unacceptable to have 150 percent turnover in a year.

ADVERTISEMENT

Let's be real about the dollars and cents. Isn't it costing Amazon a lot of money to replace so many people?

It is. And a crucial — maybe the most important — factor in Amazon's future growth is not the success of futuristic inventions like delivery drones or home robots. It's how effectively Amazon manages the people who pick, pack and ship all those boxes to our doors.

Tech companies talk about "moonshots," or doing the seemingly impossible. With Alexa, the company started with a vague idea but put its best people on the project, set incredibly ambitious targets and figured it out. Some Amazon executives at the corporate level and those who oversee the warehouses are asking why managing more than one million humans hasn't been that type of high priority moonshot.

Bezos wrote in April that he wanted Amazon to become "Earth's best employer and Earth's safest place to work." What does he mean? And what actions is Amazon taking?

ADVERTISEMENT

Amazon has talked about the safety part but not as much about the other half of Bezos' statement. Being a great employer is about more than pay, although Amazon has increased hourly wages recently and is paying new-hire bonuses.

After we inquired about the company's policies, Amazon also changed its use of a productivity metric that some workers said had been arbitrarily applied. Someone can no longer be fired for one bad day. (Amazon said it had been reconsidering the policy for months.)

Are there successful companies that manage hourly workers differently than Amazon?

Costco's chief executive testified to Congress that its hourly workers tend to have long tenures. That's a source of pride for Costco.

Walmart is often criticized for its labor practices and it generally pays less than Amazon, but it says that more than 75 percent of managers at its U.S. stores started as hourly employees. It's extremely challenging to make that jump at Amazon.

Sam's Club, which is part of Walmart, trains workers to do multiple jobs in a store. That's partly to keep people feeling fresh in their jobs and learning new skills. Amazon warehouse employees might do the same type of work for 10-hour shifts every day.

If you don't already get this newsletter in your inbox, please sign up here.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY

If you've found this newsletter helpful, please consider subscribing to The New York Times — with this special offer. Your support makes our work possible.

Before we go …

  • Cyberattacks are on top of the foreign policy agenda: My colleague David E. Sanger explains why digital hacking was at the top of the agenda for President Biden's meeting Wednesday with President Vladimir Putin of Russia. The "deterrents that kept an uneasy nuclear peace in the Cold War won't work with digital threats," David writes.
  • What happened when Nigeria banned Twitter: After the government suspended people's ability to access Twitter this month, BuzzFeed News spoke to Nigerians who felt that they lost a lifeline to speak up, connect and organize protests against inequality and violence.
  • We are the gadget guinea pigs: Amazon experiments with selling devices to see how people respond to them, like Alexa eyeglasses and buttons to reorder items like toilet paper. My colleague Brian X. Chen writes about the benefits and risks of Amazon conducting its research and development on the public. (I wrote last month about the difference between worthy real-world tests of new products and reckless ones.)

Hugs to this

Esme the cat is an adorable thief. A woman in Oregon put up a clothesline in her yard for her neighbors to retrieve gloves, masks, bathing suits and other items that Esme had cat-burglared from them.

We want to hear from you. Tell us what you think of this newsletter and what else you'd like us to explore. You can reach us at ontech@nytimes.com.

If you don't already get this newsletter in your inbox, please sign up here. You can also read past On Tech columns.

Need help? Review our newsletter help page or contact us for assistance.

You received this email because you signed up for On Tech with Shira Ovide from The New York Times.

To stop receiving these emails, unsubscribe or manage your email preferences.

Subscribe to The Times

Connect with us on:

facebooktwitterinstagram

Change Your EmailPrivacy PolicyContact UsCalifornia Notices

LiveIntent LogoAdChoices Logo

The New York Times Company. 620 Eighth Avenue New York, NY 10018