2021年7月7日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Lazarus Lynch's beauty routine, a line of eco-conscious children's wear — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

Chef, Author and Musician Lazarus Lynch Shares His Beauty Regimen

Left: Lazarus Lynch. Products, clockwise from top left: Dr Teals Shea Butter and Almond Oil Wash, $5, walmart.com; Shine 'n Jam Conditioning Gel, $4, amprogel.com; Fenty Beauty Pro Kiss'r Luscious Lip Balm, $18, fentybeauty.com; Panasonic Spa-Quality Nano-Ionic Facial Steamer, $100, shop.panasonic.com; Marche Rue Dix Whipped Body Butter, $42, marche-rue-dix.myshopify.com; Holy Raw Sapor Ghanaian Exfoliating Bath Sponge, $19, holyraw.ca; Ro Hair Essentials Black Castor Oil Hair Growth Serum, $14, rohairessentials.com.Portrait by Anisha Sisodia. Photos: courtesy of the brands

Interview by Jameson Montgomery

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My days start at 8 a.m. After meditation and yoga, I hop in the shower and use Sapor's Ghanaian Exfoliating Bath Sponge — that baby cleans your body like nothing else — with Dr Teal's Shea Butter & Almond Oil Body Wash. Marché Rue Dix in Crown Heights sells a Whipped Body Butter with castor oil, aloe vera and mango butter, which I apply after showering. It's perfect, as I'm naturally very oily and a lot of products overdo it. When I'm shooting, I do a six-minute session with my Panasonic spa-quality Nano-Ionic Facial Steamer. It awakens my skin and creates the perfect glow. I like to follow that up with a mask — I'm currently using Gleamin's Vitamin C Clay Mask with turmeric. Beauty routines change based on what I'm doing and wearing, but L.A. Girl's HD Pro Concealer is a staple. I was always under the impression one needed to buy the most expensive concealer, but this one's great for photo shoots since there's no potential for glare. Fenty Beauty's Pro Kiss'r Luscious Lip Balm is a classic — it feels so good and smooth. Day-to-day, I don't do too much with my hair. My stylist loves to use Ampro Shine 'n Jam's Conditioning Gel with extra hold, as well as Ro Hair Essentials' Black Castor Oil Serum, which strengthens, moisturizes and stimulates growth. Fragrance-wise, I love Le Labo's Santal 33. I feel like everyone started wearing it right after I found it. I usually combine it with essential oil to make it more personal — I have a set from Anjou and pick one based on my mood. Nails are always fun. If I'm wearing gels, they obviously don't change as frequently, but I love neons.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

VISIT THIS

A Bathhouse Reopens With an Indulgent Treatment

Left: the Bathhouse's private bath, set in the former factory's chimney. Right: hot, cold and thermoneutral pools.Adrian Gaut/courtesy of Bathhouse

By Caitie Kelly

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The Bathhouse spa, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is an urban sanctuary in an unlikely space: the erstwhile Dr. Brown's Soda Factory. Designed by Jennifer Carpenter, it opened in 2019 and boasts three thermal pools, three heated marble hammams, two saunas, a steam room and a restaurant with a seasonal menu crafted by Eleven Madison Park alum Anthony Sousa. Its newest treatment is a 30-minute grand bathtub soak ($95) in a private room that was once the factory's chimney. "When we first saw it, the chimney was visually inspiring to a level bordering on fantasy," says the spa's co-founder Jason Goodman. "We had been dreaming of a treatment like this pre-Covid, and we used the shutdown and reopening as an opportunity to perfect the treatment and put final touches on the design of the space itself." A local herbal apothecary, Anima Mundi, helped create three blends of essential oils and herbs that target specific needs, from dull skin to muscle recovery. After soaking for half an hour, skin is softened and poised for an exfoliating scrub. abathhouse.com.

WEAR THIS

Rejina Pyo's Eco-Conscious Children's Wear

Looks from Regina Pyo's kids' wear line.Courtesy of Regina Pyo

By Aimee Farrell

T Contributor

Fashion designer Rejina Pyo's childhood wardrobe was worlds away from the pastel-hued confections of her '80s peers. "My mother is in fashion, and she'd dress me in vintage clothes — knee-high leather boots with brown linen dresses or leather shorts," she explains. It's a sartorial experience that proved formative: "In a way, it taught me that it's OK to be different." But when it came to dressing her 4-year-old son, Lucas, she was faced with a conundrum: How to source sustainable clothes that satisfied her taste without being too precious or overpriced. "I realized there weren't that many options," she says. But the pause of fashion show schedules due to the pandemic allowed her to come up with her own solution: a collection of generously proportioned and gender-neutral clothing for children. Included are recycled cotton twill trouser suits, roomy shorts and tees, along with animal- and seashell-emblazoned dresses that borrow their voluminous silhouettes and prints from the designer's main line. Everything falls within Pyo's fun and artsy aesthetic, without being too twee or mini-me. From about $54, rejinapyo.com.

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BUY THIS

Mezcal Copitas From 10 Up-and-Coming Artists

Mezcal copitas by Vince Skelly (left) and Jim McDowell (right).Lenard Smith/Courtesy of Tiwa-Select

By Monica Khemsurov

T Contributing Editor

When gallerist Alex Tieghi-Walker was growing up, his grandmother had a collection of cups that were off-limits to anyone she didn't trust (including him). Now that he has his own collection — several hundred by his estimate, sourced on his extensive travels — he delights in doing the opposite, serving anyone who stops by his Los Angeles home with the one that suits them best. That ritual helped inspire the first in a new series of single-object group commissions by his contemporary folk art gallery, Tiwa Select: 10 pairs of Mezcal cups (known as copitas) made in partnership with the mezcal brand Yola Mezcal by 10 Tiwa artists, including Vince Skelly, Simone Bodmer-Turner and Jim McDowell. Tieghi-Walker was drawn to the copita for its spirit of simplicity and spontaneity: "They were originally made from small gourds, and you'd shove them in your pocket so that if you bumped into someone, you could have a mezcal with them," he says. They were also porous, so they'd absorb the flavor of each mezcal they held. "I appreciate objects that are ever-evolving," he says. The project itself is taking on new form: Originally conceived as a one-off, Tieghi-Walker will be making limited editions of Skelly and Matt Fishman's cups available on his website, followed by quarterly explorations of other objects, like teapots and platters, also meant to be enjoyed among friends. From $140, tiwa-select.com.

SEE THIS

A New Art Space and a Debut U.S. Exhibition

An installation view of Grada Kilomba's exhibition "Heroines, Birds and Monsters" at Amant, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.Shark Senesac/Courtesy of Amant

By Chantal McStay

T Contributor

"I often feel that we all know everything already, we just tend to forget it," says the Berlin-based writer and interdisciplinary artist Grada Kilomba in her video installation "A World of Illusions" (2017-19). In the work, Kilomba, a trained psychoanalyst originally from Brazil, retells three Classical myths essential to Freud — Narcissus, Antigone and Oedipus — as a way of exploring the colonial violence that haunts the present. Kilomba, who is of West African descent, describes her role in the film as that of a griot, a storyteller of the African oral tradition, while an ensemble of Black actors dance and mime, silently acting out the tales. The importance of remembrance is a key thread running through the artist's first solo exhibition in the U.S., "Heroines, Birds and Monsters," which marks the inaugural show at Amant, a new arts complex in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, opening this month. Prior to becoming an artist, Kilomba was a psychologist and scholar, gaining acclaim following the publication of her book "Plantation Memories" (2008), a collection of stories based on Black women's experiences of everyday racism in Germany. In 2013, she adapted the book into a staged reading. From there, she has continued to bring her writings to audiences through multimedia performance and installation. In the fall, Amant will screen a filmed reading of "Plantation Memories" and host a live conversation between Kilomba and the sculptor Simone Leigh. "Heroines, Birds and Monsters" will be on view from July 10 through Oct. 31 at Amant, 315 Maujer Street, Brooklyn, New York, amant.org.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Roe Ethridge's Beach Umbrellas

Roe Etheridge's "Rainbow Beach Umbrella With Flip Flops" (2020).© Roe Ethridge, courtesy of Gagosian

On four Mondays last summer, the photographer Roe Ethridge traveled to Rockaway Beach in New York to capture what was left behind — namely umbrellas — from the weekend celebrations that had taken place in the days before. "When I arrived at the beach, it was littered with broken umbrellas and various other 'day at the beach' sundry," says Ethridge. "It had that semi-apocalypse vibe that permeates nowadays but was also joyful in an archaeological way, like discovering the remains of a party or ritual celebration." The result is his self-published book "Beach Umbrella," images from which are now on view at the Gagosian Gallery in New York. Filled with brightly colored close-up photographs of umbrellas, the book also includes images from a fashion story Ethridge shot and pictures of sunflowers from a Clinton Hill public school garden. For more, follow us on Instagram.

Correction: A picture caption with last week's newsletter misidentified the style of a Birkenstock sandal; it was an Arizona, not a Milano.

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On Tech: Government tech moves too slooowly

An inherent flaw in government purchasing of technology: Budget cycles take forever, tech changes fast.

Government tech moves too slooowly

An inherent flaw in government purchasing of technology: Budget cycles take forever, tech changes fast.

Ruru Kuo

Let's talk about the exciting topic of government procurement! Woo hoo?!

Seriously, the way that government agencies buy technology is helpful context to understand the Pentagon's abrupt cancellation on Tuesday of a technology project that was billed as essential to modernize the U.S. military. When government tech goes wrong, one culprit is often a budgetary bureaucracy that is at odds with the pace of technological progress.

The Defense Department project, the Joint Enterprise Defense Infrastructure, known by the acronym JEDI like from "Star Wars," was intended to buy commercially available cloud-computing software to put the U.S. military on tech's new(-ish) wave. Microsoft was awarded the $10 billion contract in 2019, but it had been held up since then by accusations by Amazon that former President Donald J. Trump improperly interfered in the contract process.

Years of mudslinging by tech companies that felt they were unfairly passed over probably spelled doom for JEDI. This contract fight was unusually messy, but it also highlighted a deeper problem that has rendered a lot of government technology creaky and crummy: By the time a government agency buys something, the technology might be past its prime or not fit its needs anymore.

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The Defense Department started drawing up plans for JEDI in 2017, and now it's basically starting over by asking companies to submit new contract proposals.

Reading the news, I had a flashback to a conversation that I had last year with Robin Carnahan, who was recently confirmed as the administrator of the U.S. General Services Administration. "Stop thinking of digital infrastructure the way you would fund a bridge," said Carnahan, who at the time was working with U.S. Digital Response, an organization that helps local governments modernize their technology.

What she meant is that local, state and federal governments typically pay for roadways or other big-ticket projects once after a long deliberation and then try not to think about it too much for the next few decades.

But this poses an inherent flaw in government purchasing when it comes to technology. Long government budget cycles and mind-sets are a mismatch to the pace of technology and its need for constant improvements and upkeep.

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Carnahan gave me the example of a state buying software for its unemployment insurance program. To qualify, a company proposing the new software has to put together a proposal for the state's department of labor, and then legislators must approve the money. That process might take two or three years.

That means by the time a company gets the green light to build a website to handle unemployment claims, the proposed technology is already several years old. Tack on even more time to get the website up and running to a state's specifications. It's not a great outcome. You wouldn't be thrilled if you bought a new smartphone and it came with 2016 features and functions.

Byzantine bureaucracies and long lead times hold back technology outside of government, too. The lengthy development processes for cars is one reason in-vehicle entertainment and display systems are sometimes annoyingly clunky. By the time they make it into your pickup, the technology might have been designed years ago.

The sad thing about government technology is that it wasn't always so sad. The United States government, especially the military and intelligence agencies, used to have the best technology in the world. The military helped steer the direction of innovations including computer chips, powerful databases and the internet.

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Governments still spend a fortune on technology, but the first and best customers for new products are usually people rather than the public sector. One reason is that we don't take years to make up our minds about new tech.

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Before we go …

  • This might be the biggest ransomware attack ever: Security experts say that up to 1,500 businesses could be affected by Russian cybercriminals who compromised software used by thousands of organizations and demanded a ransom to fix it, my colleague Kellen Browning writes. Around the same time as that attack, hackers believed to be a Russian intelligence agency are accused of breaching a contractor for the Republican National Committee, Nicole Perlroth and David E. Sanger report.
  • "The good, the meh and the ugly": Brian X. Chen writes that Microsoft's first major update to Windows in six years has improvements including a more smartphone-like interface but that parts of Windows 11 also "feel frustratingly familiar."
  • Pretending to be someone you're not online is nothing new, but … A writer for Vox says that new technologies and shifting norms have led more people to pretend to be teen girls and Black and Asian women on apps like TikTok and Instagram. It's "easier than ever to assume an almost entirely new identity online, without regard for the consequences such behavior can cause," Vox writes.

Hugs to this

During a recent heat wave in British Columbia, a mama bear and her cubs took a dip in a backyard pool.

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