2021年7月14日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Herbal wines, a hotel on the French Riviera — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

BOOK THIS

An Idyllic Retreat on the French Riviera

A view of the Saint-Tropez bay from the dining room of the Hotel La Ponche, which features a fresco by the artist Elvira Solana.Romain Laprade

By Tom Delavan

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I often find myself in a beautiful place only to be told how much better it was decades ago. Fortunately, that's not the case when it comes to the recently refreshed Hotel La Ponche, a 21-room property in the historic part of France's Saint-Tropez. The space was redesigned by Fabrizio Casiraghi, whose deft interventions evoke a location's history: "Before it was jet-set, it was just for fishermen and visitors," explains the designer, who's been visiting the area since he was a boy. "There are parts of Saint-Tropez that are now bling-bling and parts that are effortlessly chic." His hope was to imbue the quaint hotel with the latter. Recognizing that La Ponche had good bones and an illustrious history — everyone from Picasso to Brigit Bardot to Simone de Beauvoir spent time there — he also conceded that it was looking a little tired. By reusing some of the old pieces of furniture alongside vintage and modern pieces, he gave the hotel a much needed face-lift. Its restaurant, called St. Germain des Pres, has a large terrace on the sea, and the bar is cozy, with oversize armchairs and a fireplace, while the rooms are light and airy, with travertine side tables and 19th-century desks. Rooms start at $700 per night, laponche.com.

WEAR THIS

A Vibrant Capsule Collection From Sacai and KAWS

Looks from Sacai's collaboration with the artist KAWS.Courtesy of Sacai

By Jameson Montgomery

Throughout his career, the artist Brian Donnelly, known professionally as KAWS and currently the subject of a major survey at the Brooklyn Museum, has been known to collaborate with the world of design, adapting his work for a range of products, including fragrance bottles and album covers. His art is especially popular in Japan, where he's teamed up with fashion brands A Bathing Ape and Comme des Garçons, as well as the musician and designer Hiroshi Fujiwara, among others. This month, he'll add Sacai — the Japanese fashion label founded in 1999 by designer Chitose Abe — to the list, with the brand's release of a 60-piece capsule collection that transformed three original works by the artist into signature prints. Rendered in either a vibrant multicolor or a muted scheme of greens and browns reminiscent of combat uniforms, the collection runs the gamut of signature Sacai pieces, including a puffer coat that snaps at the side for a relaxed, voluminous silhouette, as well as a pleated floor-grazing skirt and high-neck romantic dress. From $70, bergdorfgoodman.com.

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DRINK THIS

Herbal Wines Inspired by the Ancient World

The first release in Cale's line of low-alcoholic herbal wines is a dry hibiscus pinot noir. A marigold flower blend is soon to come.Meiwen See

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

For Nana Meriwether, her new brand of herbal wines, called Cale, is more than a line of low-alcoholic beverages. "As one of very few Black female winemakers in the country, it's my hope to inspire others while also offering a new way for everyone to imbibe more healthily," she says. Made in the Napa Valley and influenced by the ancient winemaking techniques of the Greeks, Romans and Egyptians, each bottle of Cale is produced by infusing traditional grape varietals like chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling and merlot with organic botanicals and adaptogenic and functional herbs such as lemon balm, ginseng, reishi and stinging nettle. The result is a healthier, more intentional drinking experience of light yet sophisticated wines that are naturally low in sugar and calories. The brand's first release is a dry hibiscus pinot noir with notes of wildflower and dark cherries, with a marigold blend on the horizon — a flower selected for its fortifying health benefits. From $25, drinkcale.com.

TRY THIS

All-Natural Face Oils for Every Skin Type

Left: Skin, Undressed's Nightly Harmonizing oil. Right: Skin, Undressed's line of facial oils. Chris Yoon

By Eleonore Condo

T Contributor

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Herbalist Hezi Badnany and designer Chris Yoon met at a dinner party in 2018 and bonded over a mutual love of skin care. Earlier this year, the duo transformed that common interest into a new business venture with Skin, Undressed, a line of herbal facial oils that deliver healthy, glowing skin. Each of their three products targets specific skin concerns: The Calendula Nightly Harmonizing Oil, with borage and horsetail, works to soothe and hydrate dry skin; the Meadowsweet Rescue Oil, with holy basil, which is high in salicylic acid, is ideal for acne-prone or problem skin; and the Gotu Kola and Rosehip Perfecting Oil is rich in vitamin C, making it the perfect everyday product for all skin types. Yoon and Badnany believe that what you put on your body is just as important as what you put in it: "A lot of people care about what they eat but don't really look at what's in their skin-care products," Yoon observes. "We're not going to use anything on our skin that we couldn't put in our mouths." From $48, skinundressed.com.

BUY THIS

Chunky, Pastel Rings Made by Independent Designers

Clockwise from top left: Prounis, prounisjewelry.com; Brent Neale, similar styles at twistonline.com; Irene Neuwirth, ireneneuwirth.com; Deborah Pagani, deborahpagani.com; Jacquie Aiche, jacquieaiche.com; Temple St Clair, templestclair.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Angela Koh

With New York's ongoing heat wave, my go-to accessory is a cocktail ring (necklaces and earrings tend to stick to my skin). I love supporting independent female designers like Jean Prounis of Prounis Jewelry and Brent Neale, who both hand make everything in their Midtown studios. This Prounis ring, made with 22-karat recycled gold donned with a brown star sapphire, is both delicate and bold. Neale created an array of candy-colored statement rings, including a citrine cabochon stone surrounded by pink and orange sapphires. Another designer known for her whimsy is California-based designer Irene Neuwirth, who designed this one-of-a-kind green tourmaline surrounded by a halo of smaller pink tourmalines. For something not so precious but just as exuberant, check out Mounser's collection called ring pops, which were inspired by rave culture.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

The Making of Fall 2021 Couture

A look from Dior's fall 2021 couture show.Courtesy of Dior

With its emphasis on precision tailoring and unparalleled craftsmanship, haute couture has long allowed designers to indulge their most extravagant and exacting design ideas. This season was no exception. On T's Instagram Stories, we share what went into making some of the season's standout looks, from Armani's pleated tulle cape and skirt embroidered with hundreds of crystal drops to a Dior gown that required the efforts of 15 feather workers. For more, follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misspelled the name of the designer Rejina Pyo's 4-year-old son; it is Luka, not Lucas.

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‘Mommy Brain’ Is Real

How to deal with forgetfulness, and embrace your mind's new 'superpowers.'

'Mommy Brain' Is Real

Jam Dong

I've been playing a not-so-fun guessing game lately: Is my inability to form a coherent thought a result of pandemic fogginess or "mommy brain"?

Like many other vaccinated adults, I've been dipping my toe back into being social again. But on top of having spent a year-plus largely at home, I'm also adapting to motherhood after having my first child in October.

As I gather once more with friends and relatives, I often find myself pausing in the middle of a story because a word has completely escaped me. The other day, I was trying to describe a mask I saw someone wearing but couldn't remember the word for "fabric." I frantically waved my hands across my face and finally landed on "pattern covering" as a close-enough substitute.

I'm not alone: I've heard from new moms who forgot words for the washing machine ("dishwasher for clothes"), subtraction ("reverse math"), and thirsty ("water hungry"). These slip-ups are, admittedly, funny. But they can be concerning, too. What happened to our minds?

I decided to reach out to some experts for answers, starting with Abigail Tucker, the author of "Mom Genes: Inside the New Science of Our Ancient Maternal Instinct." Ms. Tucker, a science writer and mother of four, has found that "mommy brain" isn't just a figment of our imaginations.

"The hormones of pregnancy, childbirth and breastfeeding prompt a host of genetic changes that ultimately shift our brain architecture," Ms. Tucker said. She noted that while we give a lot of attention to the physical changes of pregnancy, "there's also a kind of metamorphosis that invisibly happens inside of us."

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Studies have shown that pregnancy results in a loss of gray matter in mothers' brain areas involved in social cognition. Or, as Ms. Tucker put it: "Scientists have found that moms have trouble with verbal recall and the kinds of skills that are in the fancy-pants part of the human brain."

Two of those scientists are Liisa Galea and Cindy Barha, who work at the University of British Columbia.

Dr. Barha told me that while many women are motivated to get back to their pre-pregnancy bodies, it's not possible to return to our pre-pregnancy brains.

"It's a scary thing for people. We don't know a lot about the brain and don't want to think that it might not go back," Dr. Barha said. "But it doesn't need to go back. It shouldn't go back because it's changed. It's evolved."

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Yes, we might have trouble recalling certain words or remembering the name of an obscure actor, but there are plenty of silver linings to the ways mothers' brains change, Dr. Barha said. The upsides can include a heightened capacity to stay calm and focused during stressful situations, the ability to interpret what different newborn cries mean, and enhanced vigilance around potential dangers.

Ms. Tucker cited a study published in 2016 that found that mothers who showed the biggest drops in gray-matter volume also reported the warmest relationships with their babies. "We're paying attention to this nonverbal creature and are entirely focused on that," Ms. Tucker said.

I hadn't considered that perspective. My baby isn't looking for me to have a robust vocabulary at this stage. She's relying on me for comfort, protection and care — to pick up on her myriad nonverbal cues.

Still, that doesn't mean that mommy brain isn't frustrating or even frightening when it happens. I sometimes worry about how these cognitive changes might impact my work performance and know other mothers who share similar concerns.

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Dr. Galea and Dr. Barha, who both live in Canada, where maternity leave is much longer than the 10-week average in the United States, said those fears are valid. Still, they urge new mothers to try not to worry too much about their cognitive abilities. "I think we need to get away from that idea that these changes are bad," Dr. Galea said. "When you look later on in life, you actually see some really positive changes that occur in terms of memory and in terms of the plasticity of the brain."

In a study published in 2019, Dr. Galea, along with researchers Paula Duarte-Guterman and Benedetta Leuner, discovered that female rodents got better at completing mazes after they weaned their pups, which suggests that, with time, mothers' brains improve. "This is one of the major messages: Our brains actually get better," Dr. Galea said.

In the meantime, though, those brain blips can be maddening.

Samantha Servidio, a 26-year-old single mother in Decatur, Ga., remembers a moment on her way to work when she had gotten her fussy then-5-month-old into his car seat but couldn't get her vehicle to start.

"I kept cranking the ignition and cranking it and cranking it, and couldn't figure out what was happening. Is it my battery? Am I out of gas?" she remembers wondering.

Finally, after calling her partner at the time for help, Ms. Servidio discovered that she was trying to start her car with her iPhone charging cable instead of her keys. "I couldn't believe it," she said. "I don't know why I sat there and fumbled with it for as long as I did."

Ms. Servidio chalks up that blunder to a classic case of mommy brain fueled by sleep deprivation.

Dr. Galea, a mother of two, said that lost sleep plays "a huge role" in mental cognition and that some of the forgetfulness and fogginess that new mothers experience will subside with better shut-eye.

"This time is really a flash in the pan," added Dr. Barha, who has a 2-year-old and an 8-week-old. "Yes, there are brain changes, but you also become more efficient," she added.

For example, a mother's ability to keep track of multiple appointments, schedules, responsibilities and other tasks that require executive functioning is a "superpower" that comes with giving birth, she said.

Whether we're new parents or have been at this for a while, we're all feeling a bit of fogginess as we come out of Covid-lockdown life. Ms. Servidio, whose son will soon turn 3, said she uses her smartwatch and other technologies to help her remember what she might otherwise forget. "Honestly, I would be nowhere without my Google calendar and all of the reminders I set," she told me.

Out of all of the advice and information I heard, there was one bit that stuck with me most. Ms. Tucker reminded me, and all new mothers, to be self-compassionate. Instead of lamenting mommy brain, she suggested trying to embrace it.

"Your body has gone through this literally mind-boggling transformation and your brain has undergone a hidden Renaissance," she said. "You have become a different version of you."

Katie Hawkins-Gaar writes a weekly newsletter called "My Sweet Dumb Brain."

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Tiny Victories

Parenting can be a grind. Let's celebrate the tiny victories.

I "taught" my kids that thunder was the sound of two clouds high-fiving one another. I would smack my hands over my head (like a jumping jack) and call out "high five!" It worked so well that they were never afraid of thunder! — Marissa Kalman, Glencoe, Ill.

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