2021年7月21日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A steak made from a beet, James Shalom's fashion debut — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

BOOK THIS

A Renovated Estate With Volcano Views in Guatemala

The renovation of the hacienda-style Villa Bokéh includes the redesign of seven rooms and suites, most decorated with black-and-white portraits by the photographer Mitchell Denburg.Bronwyn Knight

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

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Set on the outskirts of the colonial town of Antigua, Guatemala, the recently opened Villa Bokéh is the picture of tranquillity. To renovate the original hacienda-style property — which sits on nearly six acres of verdant gardens — hospitality developer Grupo Alta commissioned the architecture and interior design firm Paliare Studio to take on the project. Their redesign includes a refresh of seven rooms and suites, most with sweeping views of the Volcán de Agua. On the ground floor is a cozy living room that hosts a private art collection, from black-and-white portraits by the photographer Mitchell Denburg to early 1900s tapestries curated by the Guatemalan textile expert and collector Violeta Gutiérrez Caxaj. During a stay, guests can dine at the property's greenhouse-style restaurant, run by Guatemalan chef Álvaro Perera, venture into town to partake in a natural-dye workshop at Luna Zorro Studio and access the hotel's sister property, Casa Palopó, set on Lake Atitlán, by a 20-minute helicopter ride. From $250 a night, villabokeh.com.

EAT THIS

Beef Made From a Beet

The smoke-roasted beet steak at Carne Mare.Briana Balducci

By Kurt Soller

The only steak carved tableside at Carne Mare, chef Andrew Carmellini's new chophouse in New York's revitalized South Street Seaport, is made not of beef but of beet — a regular red one, on the larger side, which evokes the pageantry, texture and taste of the old-school menu's meatier options (albeit with a bit of "cheekiness," as Carmellini, 50, notes) thanks to its clever preparation. Kept whole, each beet is brined, then dry-rubbed with a mixture of spices, charred onion and dehydrated vegetables — which lends umami and mimics a steak's seared crust — before being smoked, slow-roasted, then basted in a pan with butter, garlic, thyme and rosemary. After that, it's brought out to diners on a small grill, where it's served alongside a reduced beet-juice jus and a traditional pat of maître d'hotel butter, this one made with goat milk in homage to that time-honored flavor pairing. Innovative yet classic, rich yet light, vegetal yet meaty, this smoke-roasted beet steak, as the menu describes it, conjures something akin to the uncanny valley, as your mind squares the delightful experience of enjoying a root that doesn't look or taste like any that have come before. "Vegetarianism is part of modern, urban life," says Carmellini, who was inspired by his wife, a former vegetarian, to create the dish. "And this allows people to participate in the [chophouse] culture and not have a piece of meat." carnemare.com.

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WEAR THIS

An Art Dealer's First Venture Into Fashion

Men's and women's styles from Salie 66's debut collection.Zhi Wei

By Zoe Ruffner

T Contributor

When the art dealer James Shalom first visited a Neoclassical townhouse on Manhattan's Upper East Side nearly two years ago, he had no idea that the sweeping space would eventually become the headquarters of his very own clothing line. "Fashion was completely new to me," recalls Shalom. With an eye for fabric and fit, he and his father, Elliot, a wholesale manufacturer, set to work constructing his dream uniform of simple silhouettes expertly crafted by a handful of small family-run mills and factories in the Bassano del Grappa region of northern Italy. "We were on Zoom with them every day, refining each piece," Shalom says of the carefully considered men's and women's wardrobe essentials that now make up his new label, Salie 66, named for his mother. Soft moleskin jeans, silk-wool polo sweaters finished with pointelle stitching and oversize cotton poplin shirts featuring mother-of-pearl buttons are staples of the collection. As he puts it, "We wanted to create clothes that you could wear every single day — throughout the seasons and the years — and not have to think too much about it." salie66.com.

SEE THIS

An Exhibition of Work by Mária Švarbová

Mária Švarbová's "Atlante" (2021).© Mária Švarbová for Kolektiv Cité Radieuse, with authorization from Le Corbusier Foundation ©FLC/ADAGP Paris 2021

By Erik Morse

T Contributor

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For her newest show, "Fragile Concrete," Slovak photographer Mária Švarbová captured a young, fashionable couple posing throughout the Le Corbusier-designed Cité Radieuse, a Brutalist apartment building in France's Marseille, where her exhibition is also on view. The pair, often shot in relaxed yet playful positions, appear almost as deities in the complex's various terraces and alcoves. In "Cariatide and Atlante" (2021), the woman stands behind the man, clutching him as he raises his hands toward the rooftop, as if supporting the weight of the structure all on his own. "Helénê and Pâris" (2021) and "Apollon and Daphnée" (2021) depict a far less impassioned couple, each turned away from the other, barely touching, absorbed instead by the sublime vastness of their surroundings. In each one of the 19 images, the subjects' gestures are delicate and subtle, intensified only by the richness of the colors around them: the Radieuse's white concrete slabs, the bright azure of the Mediterranean sky and shore. Much like the artist's previous series ("Swimming Pool," 2014-20; "Futuro Retro," 2014-21), "Fragile Concrete" makes use of the photographer's distinctive style and attention to color to infuse each shot with a sense of otherworldliness. "Fragile Concrete" is on view at Kolektiv Cité Radieuse through August 27, instagram.com/kolektivciteradieuse.

TRY THIS

A Tailor to the Stars Opens Wide

Carol Ai working in her studio in Long Island City, Queens.Sunny Shokrae

By Jane Gayduk

T Contributor

If you've envied the drape of Cardi B's dress or the precision of Jay-Z's suit, you're in luck: Carol Ai, the tailor perfecting many of those A-list fits behind the scenes, recently expanded her commercial work to include on-call services for the non-celeb set. A patternmaker, clothing designer and former sewing teacher, Ai realized tailoring was a viable career move in 2013, when she landed a gig altering costumes on "Dancing With the Stars." The Los Angeles native remained busy before moving to New York for an agency job with In-House Atelier, and eventually opened her own namesake business, Carol Ai Studio, at the end of 2019. Now, Ai's carefully selected team of tailors covers clients in both cities, providing personalized on-location fittings that will make you feel ready to walk the red carpet. Prices start at $350, carolaistudio.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

How to Create Your Very Own Outdoor Dining Area

Cushions from the living room and a Summerill & Bishop tablecloth dress up the dining table, which is canopied by a high hedge of tangled roses.Carlotta Cardana

To fashion a small oasis at her London home, the homeware designer and creative consultant Matilda Goad enlisted the help of the garden designer Butter Wakefield. "Though I grew up in the countryside, where my mum has a beautiful garden, I'd never had one myself," Goad says. "I'd seen that Butter had done a tiny London patio which was really inventive." For this space, they devised a plan that hinged on dividing the garden into sections — Goad wanted to shake up what could have been a formulaic layout. "A lot of people want a lawn in the middle and borders round the sides, but I thought it would be nice to walk through two hedges, and beyond the second hedge, the garden would open up into an outdoor dining area that catches the sun all day," says Wakefield. In that section Goad plans to install a concrete-topped table, but, for now, makes do with an old wooden style that she often dresses up with Hungarian linen tablecloths, though the one shown here is by Summerill & Bishop. Hungarian linen "often comes in long stretches and is a heavier weight that absorbs stains easier," she says. For more tips on how to create — and entertain in — a bloom-filled outdoor space of your own, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misspelled the given name of a French actress; she is Brigitte Bardot, not Brigit.

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On Tech: The nightmare of our snooping phones

A Catholic official's resignation shows the real-world consequences of practices by data-harvesting industries.

The nightmare of our snooping phones

A Catholic official's resignation shows the real-world consequences of practices by America's data-harvesting industries.

Ruru Kuo

"Data privacy" is one of those terms that feels stripped of all emotion. It's like a flat soda. At least until America's failures to build even basic data privacy protections carry flesh-and-blood repercussions.

This week, a top official in the Roman Catholic Church's American hierarchy resigned after a news site said that it had data from his cellphone that appeared to show the administrator using the L.G.B.T.Q. dating app Grindr and regularly going to gay bars. Journalists had access to data on the movements and digital trails of his mobile phone for parts of three years and were able to retrace where he went.

I know that people will have complex feelings about this matter. Some of you may believe that it's acceptable to use any means necessary to determine when a public figure is breaking his promises, including when it's a priest who may have broken his vow of celibacy.

To me, though, this isn't about one man. This is about a structural failure that allows real-time data on Americans' movements to exist in the first place and to be used without our knowledge or true consent. This case shows the tangible consequences of practices by America's vast and largely unregulated data-harvesting industries.

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The reality in the United States is that there are few legal or other restrictions to prevent companies from compiling the precise locations of where we roam and selling that information to anyone. This data is in the hands of companies that we deal with daily, like Facebook and Google, and also with information-for-hire middlemen that we never directly interact with.

This data is often packaged in bulk and is anonymous in theory, but it can often be traced back to individuals, as the tale of the Catholic official shows. The existence of this data in such sheer volume on virtually everyone creates the conditions for misuse that can affect the wicked and virtuous alike.

The Internal Revenue Service has bought commercially available location data from people's mobile phones to hunt (apparently ineffectively) for financial criminals. U.S. defense contractors and military agencies have obtained location data from apps that people use to pray or hang their shelves. Stalkers have found targets by obtaining information on people's locations from mobile phone companies. When Americans go to rallies or protests, political campaigns buy information on attendees to target them with messages.

I am exasperated that there are still no federal laws restricting the collection or use of location data. If I made a tech to-do list for Congress, such restrictions would be at the top of my agenda. (I'm encouraged by some of the congressional proposals and pending state legislation to restrict aspects of personal location data collection or use.)

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Most Americans by now understand that our phones are tracking our movements, even if we don't necessarily know all the gory details. And I know how easy it can be to feel angry resignation or just think, "so what?" I want to resist both of those reactions.

Hopelessness helps no one, although that's often how I feel, too. Losing control of our data was not inevitable. It was a choice — or rather a failure over years by individuals, governments and corporations to think through the consequences of the digital age. We can now choose a different path.

And even if you believe that you and your family have nothing to hide, I suspect that many people would feel unnerved if someone followed their teenager or spouse everywhere they went. What we have now is maybe worse. Potentially thousands of times of day, our phones report our locations, and we can't really stop them. (Still, here are steps we can take to tone down the hellishness.)

The New York Times editorial board wrote in 2019 that if the U.S. government had ordered Americans to provide constant information about their locations, the public and members of Congress would likely revolt. Yet, slowly over time, we have collectively and tacitly agreed to hand over this data voluntarily.

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We derive benefits from this location-harvesting system, including from real-time traffic apps and nearby stores that send us coupons. But we shouldn't have to accept in return the perpetual and increasingly invasive surveillance of our movements.

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Before we go …

Hugs to this

One of my favorite weird (in a good way) Twitter accounts belongs to the Wild Bird Fund, a wildlife rehab and education center. Example: "Cedar waxwing parents can't miss the iridescent strips marking the entryway to their kids' Tunnel of Food Fun."

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