2021年8月18日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Fall dresses, small-batch Mexican chocolate — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

A Beloved Boutique Hotel in Marrakesh Expands

El Fenn's Colonnade courtyard, one of the hotel's new areas that opened to guests earlier this year.Cécile Treal

By Isaiah Freeman-Schub

T Contributor

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Nearly 20 years ago, while in search of a small holiday home to share, Vanessa Branson and her friend and business partner, Howell James, agreed to purchase a 19th-century riad in Marrakesh's medina. Having seen the property at night, they didn't notice that it also included several smaller houses; in light of the scope of the place, they decided to renovate and turn it into a boutique hotel. El Fenn, with its jewel-toned lime tadelakt plaster walls and maze of courtyards, has been beloved ever since. Last year, the hotel's owners, along with a large team of local artisans, made the most of their pandemic-induced closure by refreshing things once again, this time with an expansion that included the addition of four spacious suites, with floors covered in stitched leather panels, and an open-air bar tucked behind a ground-floor colonnade. There's also a new chaise longue-filled terrace pool area, which offers a chance to cool off — with views of the Koutoubia Mosque and the Atlas Mountains beyond. el-fenn.com.

WEAR THIS

Early-Autumn Essentials

From left: Ganni crinkled satin dress, $265, ganni.com, Rosetta Getty paisley scarf shirtdress, $1,190, saksfifthavenue.com, Rentrayage kimono wrap dress, $950, rentrayage.com, Proenza Schouler yellow multiswirl-print jersey shirtdress, $1,690, proenzaschouler.com, Ulla Johnson Annalisa gown in Night Sky, $995, ullajohnson.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Caitie Kelly

As summer shades into fall, a lightweight dress becomes de rigueur, whether worn on its own or with a sweater. Copenhagen brand Ganni's crinkled satin dress, intentionally wrinkled and with a scooped, low back, is perfect for a weekend getaway. The balloon-sleeved, bow-bedizened Annalisa gown from Ulla Johnson pairs nicely with sandals or boots. Proenza Schouler's swirl-print jersey shirtdress can be worn loose or with a cinched-in waist — the soft jersey smock is ultracomfortable and makes a perfect statement piece after months of loungewear. The scarf tossed across the shoulders of Rosetta Getty's paisley scarf shirtdress, along with the belted waist, gives it a fully styled feeling with minimal effort. Finally, Rentrayage, designer Erin Beatty's sustainable label, uses dead stock and upcycled vintage fabric to create unique pieces that are conversation starters, including her pinstriped kimono wrap dress.

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EAT THIS

Chocolate on a Mission

Left: the Makers Series by Casa Bosques' packaging highlights the legacy of Black artists who used quilts as a medium. Right: the latest chocolate features chamomile blossoms, ginger and bay leaf and was created via a collaboration with Brooklyn-based chef DeVonn Francis. Adrianna Glaviano

By Korsha Wilson

T Contributor

While visiting New York in 2010, Mexico City-based designer Rafael Prieto wondered why the artisanal-chocolate market was dominated by Swiss and Belgian brands given Mexico's proximity and deep cultural connections to chocolate. "I wanted Mexican chocolate to have that same moment," he says. The following year he founded Casa Bosques, a boutique small-batch chocolate company focusing on Mexican-style chocolate. Since then Casa Bosques has released several distinct bars in collaboration with artists, chefs and creatives, offering highly textured yet smooth chocolate infused with herbs, fruits and spices. This month, Casa Bosques is shining a light on Black artists with its Makers Series, a collaboration between Prieto, designer Rafael de Cárdenas and Brooklyn-based artist and chef DeVonn Francis. Francis's custom bar is an amalgam of dark chocolate, ginger, crushed bay leaf and a sprinkling of chamomile flowers. "I wanted to think about my Jamaican heritage and make it feel like the tea my mom and grandmother grew up drinking," he says. Cárdenas designed the bar's packaging to honor Black quilting artists, and all profits will be donated to the Okra Project, which offers home-cooked meals to Black trans individuals in New York City. casabosques.co.

SEE THIS

A Portraitist Turns to Nature

Julia Felsenthal's "Big Gulp" (2021).Courtesy of Julia Felsenthal

By Kate Guadagnino

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Julia Felsenthal had always put her writing — for magazines including T — before her painting. Then the pandemic hit and she found herself without many freelance assignments but, because she spends much of her time on Cape Cod, with the ocean close at hand. It was a chance for the artist, who felt more comfortable with portraiture, to try her hand at landscape painting. She started by taking hundreds of pictures while walking her dog along Nauset Light Beach, then choosing a few to reference as she began to layer watercolor and gouache back in her studio. "I really had to figure out how water works," she says, "paying attention to what's on the surface and what's underneath." That the ocean is, as she puts it, "a mercurial and infinitely complicated thing" dovetailed nicely with the tumultuousness of her emotions at the time. In one of the works, 22 of which are on view at Garvey Rita Art & Antiques in Orleans, Mass., bottle-green waves roll in beneath an ominous gray sky. In another, the water is calm and clear and seems to beckon, as if wading into its light-dappled shallows might wash away one's troubles. A portion of the proceeds from "Salt Water," which is on view through Sept. 11, will go to the Sipson Island Trust. garveyrita.com.

SHOP THIS

Introducing the Furry Huarache

A selection of styles available from Huaraches.Courtesy of Huaraches

By Max Pearl

T Contributor

One day in 2017, as designer and Mexico City native Elise Durbecq was tooling around Oaxaca, a region known for its huaraches (among many other things), she encountered a sheep herder selling lamb pelts, a not uncommon sight in the Mexican countryside. Durbecq began to wonder why she'd never seen lambskin used in footwear, and before she knew it, a brand was born: Huaraches, limited-edition sandals made with wildly tousled sheepskin pelts, produced in family-owned and -operated workshops in the mountains of southern Oaxaca. "The first four pairs were so fun and wild-looking," she says. "I was stopped on every corner and asked about my shoes." The extra-durable soles are made from used tires — the same design used by agave harvesters to avoid getting poked by thorns — and the pelts come in riotous colors made with natural dyes. Crucial to Durbecq's regional partnerships is "economic inclusivity": "As a rule, the artisan making the huarache always receives more of the proceeds per pair than myself," she says. From $165, huarach.es.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

A Weekend House Pays Tribute to Brazilian Modernism

Vila Rica consists of two low-slung pavilions of concrete and brick set in a landscape of grasses, brush and gnarled flowering trees indigenous to the area.Joana França

When Ilka Teodoro and her husband, Andre Venancio, decided in 2014 to build a weekend house on five acres of former pastureland outside Sobradinho in Brazil, they knew, she says, "that we wanted it connected to the Cerrado and to Brasília, to the architecture of the city and its landscape." To build the home, which the couple named Vila Rica, they commissioned Bloco Arquitetos, a Brasília-based firm founded in 2008 by Henrique Coutinho, Matheus Seco and Daniel Mangabeira, who met as architecture students at the University of Brasília. In the last decade, Bloco has made a name for itself designing restaurants, shops and private houses in the surrounding suburbs, the latter mostly composed of luminous white volumes raised against the blue scrim of the sky: geometric voids inspired by contemporary Portuguese architects like Álvaro Siza and Manuel Aires Mateus. According to Seco, whose family moved from Rio to Brasília when he was a child, the name of their firm references that shared aesthetic: In Portuguese, "a bloco can mean a concrete or ceramic brick — a basic element of construction," he says, but in Brasília, the word "bloco" also refers to the residential buildings that form the city's lived space, in contrast to Oscar Niemeyer's ethereal monuments. For this project, though, Teodoro and the architects wanted to create something that would pay homage not only to Brasília but to the native countryside from which it was born. To read Michael Snyder's full piece, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misstated the starting price of MAS handbags. It is $675, not $845.

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On Tech: Companies’ Afghanistan foreign policy

As we have seen with the fall of Kabul, a handful of unelected tech executives play a big role in high-stakes global affairs.

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Technology

August 18, 2021

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Companies' Afghanistan foreign policy

As we have seen with the fall of Kabul, a handful of unelected tech executives play a big role in high-stakes global affairs.

Daniel Zender

Almost as soon as the Taliban retook power in Afghanistan, Facebook, YouTube, Twitter and other large internet companies confronted an uncomfortable decision: What should they do about online accounts that the Taliban began to use to spread their message and establish their legitimacy?

The choice boils down to whether the online companies recognize the Taliban as the official government of Afghanistan or isolate it because of the group's history of violence and repression. International governments themselves are also grappling with this.

I want us to stop and sit with the discomfort of internet powers that are functioning like largely unaccountable state departments. They don't do this entirely alone, and they don't really have a choice. It's still wild that a handful of unelected tech executives play a role in high-stakes global affairs.

One way for the Taliban to try to gain Afghans' trust is to appear to be a legitimate government on social media, and the internet companies are trying to figure out how to handle it.

Facebook has for years banned Taliban-related accounts as part of its three-tiered policy for "dangerous organizations," and the company said this week that it would continue to remove Taliban accounts and posts that support the group. That includes a help line for Afghan citizens on WhatsApp, which Facebook owns. (The Taliban now control a country, but they aren't allowed to start a Facebook group.)

Citing U.S. sanctions on the Afghan Taliban, YouTube said it would also remove accounts it believes are operated by the group. Twitter doesn't have a blanket ban but told CNN that any posts or videos must comply with rules that prohibit what it considers hate speech or incitements to violence. My colleagues Sheera Frenkel and Ben Decker found examples of pro-Taliban social media accounts and posts that sprang up despite those bans, including a Facebook page that called itself a grocery store but posted pro-Taliban messages in recent days.

Those U.S. internet companies are guided by the laws of their home country and those of the countries in which they operate, and they take their cues from the international community. But ultimately, these are private companies that must make their own choices.

It was Facebook, YouTube and Twitter that decided in January that the words of President Donald J. Trump might inspire additional violence if they were blared on their sites. Twitter had to make a choice when the government of India ordered it to wipe away what the country's leadership considered subversive speech and others believed was essential free expression in a democracy. Facebook opted (by neglect rather than an active decision) not to intervene when Myanmar military personnel turned the social network into a tool for ethnic cleansing.

In each case, unelected technology executives mostly in the United States had to make consequential decisions that reverberated for citizens and elected leaders. And unlike governments, internet companies face virtually no accountability to the public if people disagree with their decisions. Citizens can't vote Mark Zuckerberg out of office.

There is a long and often ugly history of American companies' influencing what happens far from home to protect their interests. Media tycoons have helped start wars and elect their preferred candidates. The position of Facebook, YouTube and other U.S. internet companies feels different. Their products have become so widely used that their influence is not really a choice. They must act as diplomats whether they like it or not.

I almost feel a little sorry for the U.S. internet companies. (Almost.) They wanted to change the world, and they did. Now they have become so powerful they must make hard decisions about an imperfect world. They and we live with the consequences.

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Before we go …

  • Well-meaning technology has downsides, too: My colleague Jack Nicas writes that Apple's plans to scan iPhones to root out child sexual abuse images ran into criticism from security and privacy experts. Jack explains the uncomfortable reality that technology to go after criminals can hurt ordinary people, and technology that protects ordinary people can also help criminals.
  • Self-driving cars are really, really difficult: Bloomberg News says that some employees at Waymo, the driverless-car sibling of Google, lost faith in the progress of computer-piloted cars. Lots of big and small things, including a misplaced wire in a car or traffic cones on the roads, can trip up the technology. (My colleague Cade Metz wrote recently about why driverless cars have progressed greatly but still face a long way to go.)
  • The latest internet phenomenon that will pass in five minutes: Vox explains why videos of University of Alabama sorority recruitment are all over TikTok. It seems that videos by people who are confused or angry that they're seeing sorority videos help circulate those sorority videos more on TikTok. The 2021 internet is fun?!?!

Hugs to this

Here is the theme song from "Jurassic Park," with a Rube Goldberg contraption of squeaky rubber chickens. This is silly and I love it. (Thanks to my colleague Erin McCann for sharing this on Twitter.)

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