2021年8月25日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Curated sardines, a new guesthouse in Arles — and more.

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VISIT THIS

A Provençal Perfumer Turns Hotelier

In this second-floor bedroom, vintage charcoal drawings inspired by Roman architecture are a tribute to Arles's Classical history.Roberta Valerio

By Sydney Rende

T Contributor

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On the Rue du Palais, a narrow street off the Place du Forum in Arles, France, where Roman senators once debated and, many years later, Vincent Van Gogh painted his famous "Terrasse du Café le Soir" (1888), is an 18th-century stone building with its own history. Formerly a pharmacist's laboratory, it's just reopened as Maison Fragonard's latest boutique and, upstairs, the heritage French fragrance brand's first guesthouse. Both spaces were designed in collaboration with the Paris- and New York-based studio be-poles, which made a point of preserving most of the building's original terra-cotta floors and wood ceilings, as well as the stone spiral staircase leading to the guesthouse's six bedrooms, which are appointed with their own kitchens and spread across three upper floors. "We wanted to embody that breezy South of France feeling," says be-poles interior designer Virginie Boulenger, which translated to walnut shelving, white linen curtains, custom wool mattresses and antique marble sinks. The third-floor suite also comes with exclusive access to the rooftop terrace, which overlooks the clock tower that's been keeping the local time since 1555. fragonard.com/fr-int/maison-fragonard-arles.

DRINK THIS

Bringing the Art of Tea to Espresso's Epicenter

Left: Yiyun Mao in front of her tearoom in Milan's Brera neighborhood. Right: a traditional Chinese tea set at Xing Cha.Courtesy of Xing Cha

By Monica Mendal

T Contributor

When Shanghai native and tea enthusiast Yiyun Mao settled in Milan in 2016, she encountered a caffeine culture clash: "Italy is a relatively slow-living country, but Milan is different," she explains. "It's a city for work. People drink espresso to speed things up, to work more efficiently. But tea takes more time. It's meant to slow you down." Offering a contemplative counterweight to the fast-paced city, Mao opened Xing Cha, a 430-square-foot Chinese tearoom in Milan's hip Brera neighborhood, in October 2019; after a pandemic-mandated pause, it reopened in May 2020. The tearoom is divided in two: In the front is a shop with 40 types of tea, a selection of art and poetry books and ceramics and tea ware for sale; in the back is a long communal café table for leisurely yet mindful tea-sipping. Mao also hosts Chinese tea ceremonies, tea tastings, textile and ceramic exhibitions and flower-arranging workshops in the space. xingcha.it.

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READ THIS

A Magazine for Modern Mothers

Left: Magdalena Wosinska's "Leena Similu with 'Untitled'" (2021). Right: Victoria Hely-Hutchinson's "Eton Mess" (2019).Courtesy of the artists and Mother Tongue

By Nicole Rudick

T Contributor

When friends and moms Melissa Goldstein and Natalia Rachlin decided, in the midst of the pandemic, to start a magazine about motherhood, they knew they wanted to detour the well-trod territory of parenting publications. "Motherhood as a topic seeps into so many interesting spaces — from politics and pop culture to art and sex," says Rachlin. Following that logic, their quarterly magazine, Mother Tongue, is less about mothers than about women who have children. The first issue, released last month, includes an interview with the Los Angeles-based artist Leena Similu, whose figurative ceramic vessels show the influence of her Brixton childhood and Cameroonian roots; a conversation with the pioneering feminist pornographer Erika Lust (in a section of the magazine cheekily titled "Day Jobs & Blow Jobs"); and a portfolio of 13 photographers detailing, in words and images, the places they escape to when they need to be alone. The magazine's design is unfussy and chic. Of its aesthetic, Goldstein says, "We were more attracted to bold and badass than pretty and polished." $20 per issue, mothertonguemagazine.com.

TRY THIS

Keeping the Gray at Bay

Arey's Not Today, Grey supplement uses antiaging ingredients like vitamin D, calcium and black sesame seed to slow hair-color loss.Kelsey Fugere

By Kerstin Czarra

T Contributor

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Among the intimacies shared between colorist and client, one of the most closely guarded may be the topic of gray hair and how to conceal it. Los Angeles stylist Jay Small and entrepreneur Allison Conrad, co-founders of Arey (a derivation of the French word arrêt, meaning "stop"), approached the issue from another direction, searching for ways not only to cover the gray but slow its growth. Working with MIT engineers, a pharmacologist and a clinical dietitian, they developed a supplement, Not Today, Grey, that targets hair-color loss using vitamins, minerals and antioxidants with antiaging properties. The ingredients — including vitamins B12 and D, folic acid, calcium and black sesame seed extract — help hair-follicle cells maintain melanin, keeping strands not only rich in color but thicker, softer and glossier. $40, areygrey.com.

EAT THIS

The Tinned Man

Among the selection of tinned fish that Dan Waber carries on his online shop are sardines and other seafood from the Galicia, Spain, brand Matiz (left) and mackerel from the Portuguese brand Nuri (right).Dan Waber

By Evan Benn

T Contributor

Its "superfood" status cemented, the sardine is having an extended moment, so there's no better time to explore the world of tinned fish. To that end, former chef Dan Waber is curating a selection of more than 300 varieties of preserved fish from around the world — from a $2.50 tin of Moroccan sardines to a $105 large-format can of Spanish white tuna belly — available on the online shop based out of his family tomato farm in Montgomery County, Pa. He also provides tasting notes (La Brújula's razor clams from Spain are "briny, tender, and devoid of sand … [a] luxury") as well as an omakase service: Tell Waber which fish and flavors interest you, and how much you want to spend, and he'll put together a personalized box with emailed commentary about each tin and tips for how best to enjoy them. He might throw in a little something extra — Baltic Sea sprat smoked with heather and chamomile, say — to stretch your taste beyond its comfort zone and perhaps prime your next order. rainbowtomatoesgarden.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

A French Designer's Ode to Mexican Aesthetics

A table and bench made for a 2020 art fair, and vintage chairs surrounded by Fabien Cappello's "Offcuts" plates for Hem (2021), a ceiling lamp of his own design (2018) and found objects.Pia Riverola

A riotous collection of mismatched objects crowd the French designer Fabien Cappello's 900-square-foot studio in Guadalajara, Mexico — a burgeoning design capital filled with workshops dedicated to trades like carpentry and metalwork. Some are his own creations — candlesticks fashioned from corrugated metal tubing in fluorescent shades of pink and gold; decorative plates made from off-cuts of opaque, candy-colored glass — and others, like plastic jugs and metal bird cages, he's picked up at markets and neighborhood shops since moving to Mexico in 2016. To read Michael Snyder's full story, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

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How Same-Sex Parents Share the Mental Load

For many couples, it's less about a perfectly equal division of tasks, and more about communication and respect.

How Same-Sex Parents Share the Mental Load

Lydia Ortiz

Before Eva Goodwin and her wife became parents, it was Ms. Goodwin who was mainly responsible for the thinking, planning and problem-solving that would prevent their home from devolving into chaos.

Her tasks included planning the meals, remembering to fill out paperwork and keeping track of the bills and when they needed more cleaning supplies, work that psychologists refer to as "cognitive labor," also known as the mental load.

"I was definitely 'the tracker,'" she said. "I think that there's an element of just slipping into gendered roles, even in a queer partnership. I'm the more feminine and she's the more masculine."

But then Ms. Goodwin's wife gave birth to their first child. Her wife started breastfeeding, then took ownership of the baby's medical appointments and other things, too. Gradually, their partnership started to feel more equal, said Ms. Goodwin, 34, who lives in Oakland, Calif.

"I have my moments of feeling irritated that I'm the only one who does things like wipe down the counter or clean the sink," she said. "But then 20 minutes later when she's outside mowing the lawn or on the phone with the vet to get our dog's meds ordered, any irritation totally fizzles."

The couple recently welcomed a second child into their family, and this time Ms. Goodwin was the birth mother. Now, she added, "I'm totally reliant on her tracking most things since I'm so sleep deprived."

While there is little research on how same-sex couples negotiate the mental load, studies have shown that they tend to divide up household labor — including child care — more equally than heterosexual couples, and are often more communicative about their needs. But they do not necessarily have a perfectly even distribution of tasks, said Abbie Goldberg, a psychology professor at Clark University in Worcester, Mass., who has been studying L.G.B.T.Q. parenting for more than two decades.

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Oftentimes, the partner who has the more flexible schedule, works fewer hours, has more parental leave or makes less money performs more cognitive labor, she said. In families with a birth mother, factors like breastfeeding can also create divisions. And each person's individual strengths and weaknesses play a role as well.

"I birthed the children, and I'm definitely the one who carries more of the mental load," said Anne Meade, 39, who is married to a woman and lives in Lexington, Mass. "But I actually think it comes down to personality because I'm more of the planner, I'm more of the list-maker. And it's not that my wife is bad at any of those or that she's against it, it's just that's where my head has always gone."

For same-sex parents, having children can be logistically challenging and financially draining, said Rick Miller, a psychotherapist in Boston who works with gay couples.

"What I'm seeing in my office is there is a lot of conversations in advance about what life will be like," he added. "It's a joy and a relief not to have to do things a certain way."

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Studies have shown that same-sex couples aren't necessarily guided by gendered ideas about who ought to do what. But, as many gay couples already know, that doesn't mean gender is inconsequential. People in the L.G.B.T.Q. community have been subjected to many of the same gendered expectations as straight people, said Haley Swenson, the deputy director of the Better Life Lab at New America, a nonpartisan think tank.

Joe Zagame, 38, a licensed clinical social worker, and his husband, Jim Marrocco, 36, who live in New York City with their 17-month-old son, have regular family meetings to discuss which household tasks need to get done.

With regard to child care, Mr. Marrocco, a financial planner, tends to do more because his schedule is more flexible, which came in handy this month when they had a last-minute nanny cancellation. But "because we're communicating about it, we don't tend to be resentful or hold tension," he said.

That communication isn't just about who will do what, Mr. Zagame added, it's also about expressing appreciation for one another and acknowledging each other's efforts. And sometimes, he said, it's as simple as asking: "How could I be more helpful later?"

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As is the case with heterosexual couples, socioeconomic status can also influence the degree of conflict over the mental load, Dr. Goldberg said. Couples with the extra money to hire a housekeeper or pay for child care, for example, might argue less over those responsibilities. But even among these couples, there is a lot to manage.

"We're like, 'Wow, this is intense work,'" said Mr. Marrocco, whose family relies on a part-time nanny. "In many ways, our own work is so much easier than being a parent."

Dr. Swenson at New America helps families experiment with ways to better divide the mental load of running a household. One method, called the "kitchen buddy" experiment, requires the couple to pair up for certain tasks; for example, one person always loads the dishwasher and the other unloads it. Unless each person fulfills their role, the dishes cannot get done.

Creating a built-in nudge system can also work, she added, because it does not require a "C.E.O. of the household" to issue commands. In her own home, Dr. Swenson, who is married to a woman, uses fridge magnets to remind everyone whose turn it is to clean out the litter box.

Dr. Swenson, who is bisexual, said that in her relationships with men, she "wore the cruise director and quality-control hats" and "was the textbook example of a woman who was carrying mental load."

"I wore it almost like a silent feminist badge of honor," she said.

When she eventually married a woman, the tables turned. Her wife, who is part Cuban, had been raised in a spotless household where cleanliness was prized and an important part of her culture. She had a "strict make-your-bed-every-morning" routine, Dr. Swenson said. And right after they ate, the dishes were cleared and loaded in the dishwasher.

"For the first time, I felt like the dude," said Dr. Swenson, who had been raised in a family where if things were "clean enough," that was OK.

By discussing their different backgrounds, they were able to have a less charged and more purpose-driven conversation.

"We've talked a lot with each other about that — what a clean house meant when we were kids, and to what extent it fits with what we want and what we do now," Dr. Swenson said. "It helps us both take it less personally when our standards aren't identical."

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My toddler always wants to read more books at bedtime. After four, we say good night to his books before he goes to sleep so they can rest, too. — Jen Suzuki, Minneapolis

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