2021年9月22日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Swedish rugs, late-career abstract art — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

COVET THIS

This Handbag Is a Canvas

The Capucines MM handbag from the artist Donna Huanca.Photo by Thomas Lohr, courtesy of Louis Vuitton

By Sean Caley Newcott

T Contributor

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For its ongoing Artycapucines collection, launched in 2019, Louis Vuitton collaborates with six international artists to create a limited-edited design for its beloved Capucines satchel-style handbag. This season's crop comprises Vik Muniz, Paola Pivi, Huang Yuxing, Gregor Hildebrandt, Zeng Fanzhi and the Bolivian American artist Donna Huanca, best known for her richly pigmented paintings, sculptures and performance pieces exploring the female body's relationship to identity and space. Her contribution is a striking reimagining of her paintings "Cara de Fuego" and "Muyal Jol": sumptuous washes of navy, royal blue and milky white that the atelier has carefully 3D printed onto the white leather of a Capucines bag. Paired with an intricate embroidery process, the design is also selectively hand-painted to mimic the layering effects of Huanca's distinctive brushstrokes. And as a further nod to the artist's study of the female form, the bag's handles are anchored by metal hoops reminiscent of body-piercing rings. The result is a classic leather handbag transformed into a portable painting. Price on request, louisvuitton.com.

BUY THIS

Rococo Swedish Rugs

From left: Nordic Knots x Campbell-Rey in Folding Ribbon and Garden Maze.Courtesy of Nordic Knots x Campbell-Rey

By Flo Wales Bonner

T Contributor

Scandinavian design may be commonly associated with the minimalist and understated, but it has a "more exuberant" side, says Charlotte Rey, Swedish co-founder of London design studio Campbell-Rey, which she runs with longtime friend and business partner Duncan Campbell. For the duo's first foray into rug design, a collaboration with Stockholm-based company Nordic Knots, they turned to the flourishes of Gustavian style for inspiration. The Swedish interpretation of French neoclassicism provided a wealth of formal motifs, says Campbell, which became "loose and playful" when abstracted. The resulting designs include a trompe l'oeil grid, inspired by a garden maze, in four shades of green; a pattern of graphic, zigzagging ribbons in raspberry and amber; and intertwined chartreuse vines on a lilac background. Despite their historical influences, they feel decidedly contemporary in their bold irreverence and are designed to last, being handmade by artisans in Bhadohi, India, from New Zealand wool. Campbell imagines them as "heirlooms of the future." From $945, nordicknots.com.

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SEE THIS

A Latter-Day Abstractionist Gets His Due

McArthur Binion's "Stuttering:Standing:Still (LDM Two) VI" (2013).Courtesy of the artist and Lehmann Maupin

By Will Fenstermaker

T Contributor

For over 40 years, the artist McArthur Binion has made painstaking, large-scale abstract paintings interrogating Black history and experience. He had to wait until 2013 to gain gallery representation, but at 75 he's belatedly been recognized as one of the country's preeminent living painters, and his newest works are now on view at Lehmann Maupin gallery in Manhattan. Binion often layers colorful grids over personal documents and historical records — birth certificates, address books and old photos, which the artist calls the "under-conscious" of his paintings. Most of the new works were made last year, during Derek Chauvin's trial for the murder of George Floyd; in one, an image of a lynched man is obscured by multicolored grids. Others reference jazz — Binion traces the development of Abstract Expressionism back to bebop and its improvisational ethos — and the artist's early career as a writer. "Modern:Ancient:Brown" is on view through Oct. 23. lehmannmaupin.com.

SHOP THIS

A Shift to Men's Wear

A look from Toast's men's wear collection.Courtesy of Toast

By Flo Wales Bonner

T Contributor

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Though the British clothing and lifestyle brand Toast started out with women's wear, male partners of staff members would frequently wear the pieces, drawn to their unfussy shapes and relaxed fit. So releasing a men's collection felt like a logical step, explains Nikki Sher, Toast's head of men's wear. The new line features pieces made to last, crafted primarily from natural materials that are sourced locally whenever possible. These include a classic ecru cable sweater knitted with yarn spun in Yorkshire; tapered drawstring-waist pants in moss-toned cotton linen; and a donkey jacket — a riff on work wear being a staple of any Toast collection — reimagined for softness in a tactile, peat-colored wool-cashmere blend. Designing for casual times like these means the pieces are also built for effortless layering: "No tucking in," says Sher. Toast will display its new men's wear collection at Brooklyn Grange on Sept. 24. us.toa.st.

WEAR THIS

An Extra-Loopy Belt

Emme Parsons's new leather belt can be worn in a number of ways.Noua Unu Studio

By Zoe Ruffner

T Contributor

Emme Parsons may be best known for her understated, timeless sandals, but since the launch of her eponymous line in 2017, the Palm Beach-based designer has been quietly expanding beyond footwear: Last summer, she introduced a delicate gold-plated anklet; this month, she unfurls a one-size-fits-all double-length belt, available in smooth black or chestnut calfskin with a silver or brass rectangular-shaped buckle. Crafted in Italy, the aptly named Yoyo can wrap twice at the waist, loop over itself into a half-knot or simply hang long and loose. "It really just is up to the woman and how she wants to style it," says Parsons, who paired it with breezy caftans and oversized blazers throughout her pregnancy. $98, emmeparsons.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

#TEyeCandy: A Design-Savvy Shower

Nin Solis

The internet may love pictures of bathtubs, but an eye-catching shower, whether appointed with intricate tile or Komatsu stone, can be just as nice. This one, from a cozy cottage on a Swedish island northeast of Stockholm, features a sink by Jasper Morrison, English ceramic tiles and a stool by Carl Malmsten, all accented by red jasper marble from Italy for the floor. The glass door adds a practical touch: Guests can enter the shower straight from the forest outside. For more, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misspelled the surname of the Delfina Balda founder; she is Delfina Baldassarre, not Baldassare. Another item in the newsletter referred incorrectly to Chez Dede; it is a design firm, not a designer.

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How the Pop It! Invaded Your Home

Blame a capuchin monkey and pandemic anxiety.

How the Pop It! Invaded Your Home

Rose Wong

Every year or so, a new toy will appear in my apartment and multiply like an invasive species. In 2019 it was L.O.L. dolls, the gaudy nightmare that scattered tiny plastic shoes and sunglasses throughout my living room. This year, a Pop It! — a small, flexible silicone toy that resembles Bubble Wrap, with little blisters you can pop in and out — came to us in a goody bag. By the summer, we had acquired 10 of them in different shapes, sizes and colors, and my older daughter was trading them at camp. She'd leave the house with a Pop It! shaped like an ice cream cone and return with one shaped like a unicorn's head.

I polled friends across the country over the summer, and their houses had also been infested with Pop It! fidget toys. Other media outlets have taken notice, too. "It seems to be taking everybody by storm this year," said Adrienne Appell, a senior vice president at The Toy Association, a nonprofit trade association for the toy industry. David Capon, the president of FoxMind, the company that manufactures Pop It!, said that sales have risen more than 10-fold in the past year.

I wanted to learn how a toy goes from unknown to juggernaut. In the particular case of Pop It!, it's a combination of a viral TikTok video starring a monkey, a much longer back story involving a dream about breasts and a pandemic causing widespread boredom and anxiety among children and teens doing remote learning.

The toy has a curious back story.

Though the Pop It! is used by many children as a fidget toy to keep their fingers occupied during class, a sort of successor to the fidget spinner craze of a few years ago, it was conceived as a portable game. The company behind the original idea is an Israeli outfit called Theora Design, which was founded by a married couple, Theo and Ora Coster.

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Theo emigrated from the Netherlands to Israel after World War II and married Ora, an art teacher who would become the creative mind behind their company, which released games like Guess Who?, an '80s classic guessing game, and Elsie Sticks, which was popular in the '70s and involved interlocking ice pop sticks.

In the mid '70s, Ora's sister died from breast cancer, and shortly after, she had a dream about a field of breasts. She woke up and told Theo that she wanted to create a game based on her vision. "Imagine a field of breasts, that you can press from one side, and then press from the other side," Boaz Coster, her son and co-C.E.O. of Theora Design, said when describing his mother's vision. Theo created a prototype in rubber that sat around the Theora showroom for decades.

The company upgraded it with silicone to give the game a better hand feel, and ultimately Mr. Capon of FoxMind decided to manufacture and market it as a game called Last One Lost, a logic puzzle where the person who presses the last bubble remaining on the board loses. It hit the toy fairs in 2013.

But it wasn't until the game was relaunched under the Pop It! brand and sold at Target in 2019 that sales really started to take off, said Mark Thoma, vice president of design and marketing at Buffalo Games, a company that helps distribute the Pop It! What happened to spur the outrageous growth? A viral video on TikTok.

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A monkey plays on TikTok.

According to Richard Gottlieb, the CEO of Global Toy Experts and publisher of Global Toy News, before the internet, one of the oldest social networks was the schoolyard network. "Typically how that works is a cool kid comes to school, and he or she brings a toy and because they're cool everybody else wants it, and it moves like a virus from playground to playground, state to state, and ultimately country to country," he said.

The old schoolyard network could take months or even years to popularize a toy. But social media has made the cycle go much faster. The aforementioned L.O.L. dolls were nudged along in the market by YouTube unboxing videos. In the case of Pop It! toys, the influencer that sparked the trend was an 8-year-old capuchin monkey named Gaitlyn Rae, who currently has 7.8 million followers on TikTok.

Last October, Gaitlyn Rae's owners posted a video of her popping a Pop It! in and out with delicate concentration against the backdrop of spa sounds, with hashtags including #asmr #relax and #sensoryplay. The Pop It! had simply appeared in Gaitlyn's house, too, just like with my kids. Her owner, Jessica Lacher, told the BBC: "Somebody sent her a pop-it for her birthday. … That was the first we had ever seen of them." Less than a year later, the hashtag #popit has more than 11 billion views on TikTok.

Do fidget toys actually help kids?

Why this toy at this time? There's always a bit of alchemy when it comes to making a hit toy — if there were an obvious formula, everyone would do it, the experts told me. But Ms. Appell, of The Toy Association, speculated that the potential anxiety-quelling aspects of the Pop It! may have made it a pandemic-era hit. She said that many children used them during remote learning. "Especially in these times, they can be calming, they can be soothing," she said. "Even adults are enjoying them."

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I can personally attest to the viscerally satisfying qualities of popping those little bubbles in and out; sometimes I will idly pick one up while watching TV, and it keeps my hands occupied and makes my mind feel a little quieter. But I wanted to know if there is any evidence that fidget toys actually help children calm their anxiety or help them focus on tasks.

Yamalis Diaz, Ph.D., a clinical psychologist and a clinical assistant professor at N.Y.U. Grossman School of Medicine, said that the evidence is mixed on whether fidget toys are helpful for kids who are struggling to focus in academic settings. One study will show increased ability to stay on task for kids with A.D.H.D. who use fidget spinners in the classroom; another study will show lower student performance on math exams when children are allowed to use fidget toys.

Dr. Diaz, who specializes in treating children with A.D.H.D., said that in her experience, the usefulness of a fidget toy is unique to each kid. She described two children in her practice who had the same diagnosis and had chosen a Rubik's Cube as a fidget toy. One child could continue to answer her questions while he played with the cube; the other was totally sucked into playing with the toy and could not absorb any of the conversation.

Of course, toys don't need to have a purpose to bring our children a great deal of joy. I don't think either of my daughters would benefit from a Pop It! in an academic setting, and they very quickly lost their luster as fidgets or games. Instead, for my 8-year-old, the Pop It! served as a bonding tool for her new friends at camp. They were negotiating relationships by trading toys.

According to Mr. Gottlieb, the length of many toy crazes before they start going out of fashion is about nine months, which means we may have already reached peak Pop It! I can't wait to see what the next invasive species is going to be, and what inventive things my kids are going to do with it.

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Tiny Victories

Parenting can be a grind. Let's celebrate the tiny victories.

It's always a struggle to get our almost 3-year-old to keep walking with us. Today on a hike we challenged her to catch our shadows and it kept her moving and entertained the whole time! — Becca Herman, Fort Collins, Colo.

If you want a chance to get your Tiny Victory published, find us on Instagram @NYTparenting and use the hashtag #tinyvictories; email us; or enter your Tiny Victory at the bottom of this page. Include your full name and location. Tiny Victories may be edited for clarity and style. Your name, location and comments may be published, but your contact information will not. By submitting to us, you agree that you have read, understand and accept the Reader Submission Terms in relation to all of the content and other information you send to us.

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