2021年10月13日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Tarot-like tableware, a young photographer's first book — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Symbols by the Plate

A dinner party in Milan cooked by Leila Gohar to celebrate the collaboration between Foundrae and Laboratorio Paravicini.Adrianna Glaviano

By Eleonore Condo

T Contributor

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Husband-and-wife jewelry designers Murat and Beth Bugdaycay, the duo behind the New York brand Foundrae, make pieces freighted with meaning. Their jewelry employs a lexicon of symbols culled from a host of esoteric traditions and expressive of what they term "tenets," such as Strength, Karma and Dream. Now they've teamed up with another family-run business, the Milan-based Laboratorio Paravicini, makers of fine tableware, on a line of nine hand-painted gilded porcelain plates featuring the same suggestive runic vocabulary. The idea behind the Tenets collection, explains Beth, is to create modern heirlooms. "I have a lot passed down in my family," she says. "When you touch those pieces, you know how many other loving hands also used them. There's a feeling that you're a part of a legacy of love." From $65, foundrae.com.

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A Collaboration Among Friends

Left: Candle Vessel and Kuei bag. Right: (from left) Reginald Sylvester II, Tschabalala Self and Brandon Blackwood.Christian DeFonte

By Flo Wales Bonner

T Contributor

Artistic collaboration is a political act, according to the painter Tschabalala Self — whose richly colored mixed-material canvases interrogate notions of the Black female body — one she thinks Black creatives across various disciplines ought to engage in. "When there's an opportunity to show camaraderie or allegiance to one another, it's great to take it," she says. So when the luxury retailer Yoox invited her to curate a small edition of design objects, Self asked her friends Brandon Blackwood, a fashion designer, and Reginald Sylvester II, an artist, to work with her. The resulting two-piece "Our House" collection, launching Oct. 19, comprises an exclusive iteration of Blackwood's chic, boxy Kuei bag in leather, which he adorned with an allover pattern lifted by Self from her 2016 work "Bellyphat," as well as a voluptuous vessel in charcoal-dyed cement by Sylvester that can serve as both vase and candleholder. The latter piece's packaging includes a drawing by Self of its sculptural, almost figurative form, constituting a de facto bonus artwork. From $350, yoox.com.

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The Dance of Diaspora

Sasha Phyars-Burgess's "Untitled #2, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY" (2016).Courtesy of the artist and Capricious Publishing

By Max Pearl

T Contributor

With her first book, "Untitled," which was recently shortlisted for Aperture's PhotoBook Awards, the photographer Sasha Phyars-Burgess arrives with a highly developed style somewhere between portraiture and social documentary. The monograph's first part, titled "There (Yankee)," explores the artist's Trinidadian heritage as seen through the eyes of a first-generation American born in Brooklyn. Many other photos from the book depict Black nightlife and party cultures, and deploy dance as a metaphor as much as a physical act: In a multiway interview with the artists Juliana Huxtable and Carolyn Lazard that accompanies the images, Phyars-Burgess likens the production and circulation of Black art to a dance circle: All are welcome to watch, but only those forming part of the circle glean its deepest meaning. Shot in black and white, primarily with a large-format film camera, Phyars-Burgess's pictures convey subtle narrative cues via dazzling dramas of light, shape and shadow, uncovering an uncanny magic at the heart of everyday interactions. $60, becapricious.com.

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The Snake in the Garden of Design

Left: The beaded skirt of Rich Mnisi's Nyoka console hides the head of a snake. Right: his Vumboni I (Testimony) sheepskin-and-leather sofa.Christof van der Walt, courtesy of Southern Guild

By Gisela Williams

T Contributing Editor

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Not long after the South Africa-based designer Rich Mnisi launched his eponymous line of bold, gender-fluid fashion in 2015, he began experimenting with making furniture. "I realized I could think of designing furniture the same way I design clothing: by accommodating the human body," he says. "I designed the first prototype to feel like an embrace from my great-grandmother." Indeed, Mnisi's couches, chaises and sofas bear a remarkable resemblance to recumbent female figures à la Henry Moore, a phenomenon in evidence in his first full collection of furniture, now on view at Southern Guild gallery in Cape Town. Such sinuousness can also have a dark side, however: One of the most striking objects of the six-piece collection is the Nyoka console (Nyoka, which is also the title of the show, means "snake" in Xitsonga), which features a writhing serpentine form whose head is hidden behind a painted and beaded curtain. "I often play with the concept of duality," says Mnisi. "So much good can be born of confronting fear." southernguild.co.za.

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Tennis Duds That Hold Up Off the Court

Looks from the Palmes collection.Nicholas Garcia

By Jameson Montgomery

Nikolaj Hansson may be a self-described skateboarder at heart, but during the pandemic he developed a passion for tennis while playing on the courts in Faelledparken, Copenhagen's largest park. Soon, Hansson — a veteran of the Danish design world, having worked as a communications consultant for Tekla Fabrics and Muuto — got to noticing, as any sartorially sensitive serve-and-volleyer must, the parlous state of tennis fashion, saturated as it is with "high-level performance brands," in his words, with scant regard for style. So he stepped into the breach and developed his own brand, Palmes Tennis Society, a line of classic tennis wear for both on and off the court. Its cotton polos, paneled shorts and houndstooth Shetland-wool blazer reference just enough retro preppy chic without going full country club. But perhaps Palmes's classiest vintage nod is its Leo vest, inspired by the sweater-vests of erstwhile tennis style icons like Björn Borg and Boris Becker. It's fitted to allow for freedom of movement mid-forehand, but also layers well with an oxford. From $50, palmes.co.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Restoring a Modernist Master

The entrance to Éric Touchaleaume's Galerie 54, originally the atelier of the brothers Jan and Joël Martel, designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens. The concrete sculpture in front was created by Mallet-Stevens in 1927 for a casino he built in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France.Matthew Avignone

The art and antiques dealer Éric Touchaleaume was 15 when he first came across Rue Mallet-Stevens, a row of five giant, decaying 1920s Modernist townhouses in Paris. Touchaleaume was struck by one particular house, No. 10, Hôtel Martel. An arrangement of concrete cubes with a three-story turret topped by an umbrella-like roof with a red glazed tile underside, the structure also had faded yellow blinds that lent a Piet Mondrian effect. Despite its dilapidation, the grand mansion moved him deeply. Like all the structures on the block, it was the creation of the French architect Robert Mallet-Stevens, a largely forgotten early Modernist master. A contemporary of Le Corbusier and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's, he intended the series of buildings as a template for Une Cité Moderne, a breakaway from the staid proportions and ornamentation promulgated in the 19th century by Baron Haussmann. In 2007, Touchaleaume saw a listing in the paper for a duplex at No. 10. He quickly purchased the apartment (he later purchased the 1,900-square-foot adjoining L-shaped atelier), and embarked on a meticulous restoration. Read more at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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The Messy Truth About Teen Girls and Instagram

You can't blame social media for everything.
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Parenting

October 13, 2021

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The Messy Truth About Teen Girls and Instagram

Illustration by Andrea D'Aquino, Photos by Getty Images

I spent a few nights last week poring over the trove of files that Facebook's whistleblower, Frances Haugen, released to The Wall Street Journal about the impact of Instagram on teen girls. My initial gut response was: I need to keep my two young daughters away from social media until they're 40. Statistics like "32 percent of teen girls said that when they felt bad about their bodies, Instagram made them feel worse," along with a raft of articles calling Instagram "toxic" and a "cesspool" for teen girls, are panic-inducing.

But then I took a step back and remembered being a teenage girl myself. I did not feel great about my body. I frequently compared myself to my friends, and I spent many hours a day parked in front of the television watching MTV, staring at the impossibly chiseled abs of every member of TLC. My parents tried to ban MTV when I was 12, in part because of the overly sexualized images of women, but I just watched it when they weren't around.

So I know from experience that keeping my kids off social media forever isn't realistic, and I also wonder: How do we know for sure that social media is worse for teen girls than traditional media was for previous generations?

What the Research Says

The answer isn't as straightforward as statistics from Facebook's internal documents and the subsequent reporting might suggest. First, as Anya Kamenetz, an NPR reporter and the author of "The Art of Screen Time," pointed out: Facebook's research had a small sample size and was not peer-reviewed. It's also worth noting that teenagers may struggle more with depression and anxiety in this moment because, like every other demographic, we're all still living in a pandemic.

Second, after looking at the academic literature about media and body image from before and after social media's existence, it seems like unattainable visions of women's bodies have long had a negative effect on adolescent girls, who are already at a highly vulnerable developmental moment as their bodies change. There are ways that social media might heighten this vulnerable moment, but its impact is not clear-cut.

In 2009, the year before Instagram launched, a review of the literature on mass media and body image in young women found that TV and magazines were probably the "principal source" of information about the "thin beauty ideal" and how to get it, and that repeated exposure to such media can be a risk factor for body dissatisfaction, disordered eating and concerns over weight. A longitudinal, racially diverse study of 2,516 teens that ran from the late '90s to the early aughts found that teen girls were much more dissatisfied with their bodies than teenage boys were, and that lower levels of body satisfaction were linked to higher levels of dieting and disordered eating.

Do those findings differ from what we know about social media and its impact on body image?

The research quite consistently finds that image-based platforms like Instagram have a "small link to negative body image," said Jasmine Fardouly, a social psychologist and research fellow at the University of New South Wales in Sydney. The research on non-image based platforms, like Facebook, is a little bit more mixed, she said.

And there is concern among experts, like Dr. Jenny Radesky, an assistant professor of pediatrics at the University of Michigan Medical School who studies digital technology use in families, that what makes a platform like Instagram particularly insidious for some teens is the extra layer of validation they observe through the likes, comments and shares of their peers. "If information is delivered to you within a trusted social network, it may be something the user accepts, believes or trusts more readily," Dr. Radesky said.

However, even the research that finds spending time on social media is associated with greater instances of disordered eating behavior and negative feelings about body image is careful to note, causality cannot be determined: In other words, these studies cannot tease out whether girls who are inclined toward eating issues, for a variety of reasons, spend more time on social media, or whether the social media causes the issues.

"Just being on Instagram isn't harmful, it's how you use it," Dr. Fardouly said. When we look only at the potential negative effects of social media on teenagers, we're also ignoring the ways it can have a good influence. Dr. Fardouly has done studies showing that body-positive content depicting a range of shapes and sizes and parodies of thin-ideal content may boost young women's moods — though the research is preliminary.

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How Parents Can Help Girls Push Back

As individuals, we can't control what social media giants like Instagram blast into the ether, or how their algorithms work. But as parents we can mitigate the effects of images that potentially make our kids feel worse about themselves. First, we need to control the entry point to social media, Dr. Radesky said. If your child is under 13, they're not supposed to be starting their own accounts, because collecting data on children is against U.S. privacy laws.

If your kids are interested in social media because it allows them to connect with other kids while we're still in a pandemic, you can encourage them to use apps like iMessage or FaceTime, which allow them to chat without "likes or social comparison or posting out to followers." Those tools also align better with the kind of socializing they're doing in person, Dr. Radesky said. If they're interested in something like TikTok, you can explore that app with them, monitoring what they're seeing, she said.

Starting your kids off with social media literacy at a young age is an essential tool, said Dr. Yolanda N. Evans, an associate professor at the University of Washington Department of Pediatrics who specializes in adolescent medicine. For example, she said that if you observe your kid looking at an ultra-manicured photo of a friend, you can say something like: "'I noticed that picture of so-and-so looks professional, how many takes do you think they took to get it?' It helps them think critically about what they're seeing."

If your kids are older and already on social media, you can encourage them to curate their feeds so that they're not just getting #fitspo and extremely thin bodies. And try to model good tech hygiene yourself, Dr. Evans said, whether it's a family rule that there are no phones at dinner or after 9 p.m. She recommends this American Academy of Pediatrics interactive media plan, which you can customize for your own family's needs.

I have no illusions that my girls will always feel good about their bodies. I am certainly not eager for them to be on social media, particularly from a data privacy perspective. But I am glad that I can arm them now, while they're still listening, with the weapons to push back against the thin ideal wherever they encounter it.

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We play a game where I say an animal (elephant, ant, snake, etc.) and my kids draw one part of that animal (ears, antenna, tongue), repeating the process until they've completed an entire creature with various animal features. The results are always different, and the kids love to name their wild combinations! — Lily Glass, Los Angeles

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