2021年11月3日 星期三

The T List: Six things we recommend this week

Sun-kissed wines from the South of France, musings from Tom Ford — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

Yasmin Sewell's Beauty Regimen

Far left: Yasmin Sewell, founder of the well-being brand Vyrao. Clockwise from top left: Vyrao Magnetic 70, $190, vyrao.com; Dizziak Deep Conditioner, about $30, dizziak.com; Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage, $36 at lauramercier.com; Rose Quartz Beauty Restorer, about $57, hayoumethod.com; Emma Lewisham Skin Reset Serum, $102, emmalewisham.com; In Fiore Fleur Vibrante Solution Botanique Pour Le Visage Et Le Corps, $175, infiore.net; Sodashi Calming Face and Neck Moisturiser, about $110, sodashi.com.au; Vyrao Ember Incense, $50, vyrao.com.Left: Justin Polkey. Right: courtesy of the brands

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The first thing I do in the morning is apply Votary Super Seed Cleansing Oil and use a Rose Quartz Beauty Restorer gua sha tool from Hayo'u — I learned how to do gua sha from tutorials with Katie Brindle during lockdown. Then I put on Skin Reset serum from Emma Lewisham and the Calming Face and Neck Moisturizer from Sodashi. If I've got time I'll do qigong for 20 minutes; it's a Chinese practice of going through a series of poses connected to different organs in the body and increasing the energy there. All of our fragrances are based on the emotions they trigger; I pick mine according to what mood I want to evoke that day. I've been wearing I Am Verdant a lot — it feels like a zap of energy — and Magnetic 70; it's quite masculine and strong. Our Ember candle and incense, which is smoky and woodsy and has birch and frankincense, is about clearing negative energy. I don't wear much makeup; maybe Secret Camouflage concealer from Laura Mercier under my eyes. Looking after my skin with facials is more my focus. I've had the same facialist, Vaishali, here in London, for 15 years. My Infrared Sauna Blanket is the best thing I've ever bought — every time I get a bit sick, I feel better after using it. When you've got curly hair, it's a whole thing. If it's really frizzy I use Olaplex No. 6 Bond Smoother and wash with a Purology Hydrate Shampoo and Dizziak Deep Conditioner that smooths it out. If it's a bit ratty after a few days and I don't want to wet it, I spray Bumble & Bumble Curl Reactivator. I love a nighttime bath, and because I'm Australian and the smell of eucalyptus oil is nostalgic to me, I'll sprinkle it in the water. Or I'll put in the tiniest drop of Olverum's Bath Oil, and my entire house will smell of it. I found this incredible exfoliating mitt at a pharmacy in West London that is much stronger than anything else I've tried. I'm very loyal to In Fiore, and their Fleur Vibrante is my magic potion. I love their body oils too. I go to bed smelling like a bouquet of flowers.

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An Online Cabinet of Ceramic Curiosities

Left: a green urn from Wilhelm Kåge's Argenta series for Gustavsberg (ca. 1940s). Right: Charles Voltz's Pastèque vase (ca. 1950s).Courtesy of Archyvio

By Tilly Macalister-Smith

T Contributor

Lilya Turki, a Swiss-Tunisian creative director, and her husband, Antonio Fazio, a Swiss-Italian designer, began collecting ceramics over a decade ago, visiting markets and dealers all over the world. Largely confined to their Brooklyn Heights apartment during the pandemic, they finally had time to take stock of the 600-plus pieces they'd amassed, and set about cleaning, restoring and photographing each item. Soon after, they launched Archyvio, an online shop and database of one-of-a-kind finds, including a rare Gio Ponti ceramic cat, 1950s Gunnar Nylund vases and a square Signe Persson-Melin teapot. The site is searchable primarily by color, an interface that was important to the couple, who now live back in Switzerland. "It was more emotional this way," says Turki. "We wanted to start the conversation with something simple." From $135, archyvio.com.

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Turning the Treadmill Into a Runway

The boxing ring at HermèsFit in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.Frank Oudeman

Workout wear may have come a long way since the days of headbands and leg warmers, but Hermès is taking the idea of looking good mid-sweat to another level this week with HermèsFit, its bespoke pop-up gym in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. From Nov. 4 to 7, the French luxury house will offer a series of free workout classes during which guests can try out and try on some of its most iconic accessories. During daylight hours there will be yoga sessions with poses involving scarves, kickboxing classes for those sporting enamel bangles and lessons on stretch techniques using leather belts. At night a boxing ring painted signature Hermès orange will transform into a stage for live performances and D.J. sets. And for those who can't bear to part with their props afterward, an on-site shop will offer a selection of the brand's latest beauty products and accessories. Fitness bookings at hermes.com.

DRINK THIS

Wines for the Golden Hour

Le Blanc from Souleil Vin de Bonté.Doris Poe and David Fritz Goeppinger

By Lindsey Tramuta

T Contributor

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Childhood friends Marianne Fabre-Lanvin and Thomas Delaude grew up surrounded by sun and sea on family vineyards in the South of France, so it's no surprise that their eventual collaboration — a three-bottle wine collection called Souleil Vin de Bonté — incarnates a certain elemental joie de vivre. All three blends — labeled simply Le Rouge, Le Rosé and Le Blanc — now available Stateside, are accessibly priced, food-friendly organic wines ideally enjoyed as aperitifs paired with rustic finger foods: Le Rouge with chorizo and kalamata olives, say, or Le Rosé with tinned sardines. The pair also share a passion for ocean conservation, and a portion of the proceeds will go to the 5 Minute Foundation. Says Fabre-Lanvin: "We wanted to say that you can entertain and be a bit of a bon vivant while doing good." From $14, convivewines.com.

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Tom Ford, on Paper

Left: "Tom Ford 002." Right: Jay-Z wearing Tom Ford on a 2014 tour.From left: courtesy of Rizzoli; Lenny "Kodaklens" Santiago, courtesy of Tom Ford

By Flo Wales Bonner

T Contributor

Fashion is largely focused on what's next, so for fashion designer and filmmaker Tom Ford to cast a retrospective look at his career in his latest book as he approached his 60th birthday was a rare, "cathartic" experience, he says. Whereas "Tom Ford," released in 2004, charted his time at Gucci and YSL, "Tom Ford 002," which will be released on Nov. 10, focuses on his eponymous brand, launched in 2005, along with his venture into filmmaking with the Academy Award-nominated "A Single Man" and "Nocturnal Animals." True to Fordian form, the book is a glamorous affair, with glossy photos of everyone from Timothée Chalamet to Michelle Obama wearing the designer's pieces. Meanwhile, an interview with fashion critic Bridget Foley illuminates Ford's inner world, including his relationships with his son, Jack, and husband of 35 years, Richard Buckley, who passed away in September and to whom, along with Jack, the book is dedicated. $135, tomford.com.

WEAR THIS

Shetland Chic

Clockwise from top left: Tory Sport, $298, toryburch.com; Weekend Max Mara, $450, weekendmaxmara.com; MM6 Maison Margiela, $550, maisonmargiela.com; Paco Rabanne, $790, netaporter.com; Valentino, $3,800, valentino.com; Balenciaga, $1,450, balenciaga.com; Stine Goya, $390, stinegoya.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Gage Daughdrill

Cooler temperatures are finally here, and it's time to stock up on fall wardrobe staples like oversize coats, statement boots and, last but not least, a Fair Isle sweater. The après-ski standby, whose familiar patterns connote instant coziness, has been migrating to runways of late, popping up in myriad fall collections. Weekend Max Mara and Valentino offer classic renditions with the shoulder-to-shoulder pattern right below the neckline; Tory Sport follows suit, but with a turtleneck for added warmth. Paco Rabanne's fitted silhouette and Stine Goya's balloon sleeves temper the ruggedness with feminine touches. And both Balenciaga's distressed fabric and MM6 Maison Margiela's high neck and long sleeves push the sleepy classic in more alternative directions.

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Filipino Comfort Food

Bowls of nilaga, surrounded by (clockwise from left) lumpia, or fried rolls; a sawsawan, or dipping sauce, of apple cider vinegar, garlic and serrano chiles; sautéed kale with crispy garlic; and a sweet chili sauce.Flora Hanitijo

The chef Angela Dimayuga grew up in San Jose, Calif., the fifth of six children in a Filipino American family, and still remembers the slowly simmering soups and stews that seemed to be constantly bubbling away in the kitchen of her childhood home. Because both of her parents worked, her mother would often cook a week's worth of food at once. One of her standbys was nilaga, a simple yet flavorful soup of slow-braised beef shanks, bone marrow and earthy vegetables. "Nilaga was something we had on regular rotation because it's nourishing and could feed a lot of us," says Dimayuga, who, until recently, was the creative director of food and culture for the Standard hotels. "It's an easy dish to make, since it's all passive cooking: You throw the meat in with some water." Click the link in our bio for Dimayuga's recipe for nilaga, which also features in "Filipinx: Heritage Recipes From the Diaspora," the new cookbook that Dimayuga wrote with Ligaya Mishan, a writer at large for T. It captures the lively, communal spirit of the Filipino dishes — from rich stews and crunchy merienda (or snacks) to bracing condiments and acid-hued sweets — and pays tribute to the archipelago's hodgepodge of culinary influences: China, Japan, Spain, America, to name only a few. To read Mimi Vu's story, visit us at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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A dose of optimism about mothers at work

The economist Claudia Goldin has hope for the future.
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Parenting

November 3, 2021

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A dose of optimism about mothers at work

Eleanor Davis

After nearly two years of talking to mothers about how the stress of combining work and family under Covid pandemic conditions is disproportionately affecting them, my outlook for the future can be described as bleak (or, possibly, dead inside). Which is why it was refreshing to talk to Claudia Goldin, a Harvard University economics professor and the author of a new book, "Career and Family: Women's Century-Long Journey toward Equity," which traces the ascent of college-educated women in the United States and their ability to combine well-paid work and motherhood.

Considering how far mothers have come in the past 100 years, she is optimistic about mothers at work in the long term, despite pandemic woes. As Goldin explains in "Career and Family," in the early 20th century, college-educated women frequently had to choose between having a career and having children; she notes that only 50 percent of women who graduated from college from 1900 to 1919 had kids by age 44. Of women who graduated from college from 1980 to 2000, 79 percent had children by 44, which suggests that most college-educated women who wanted kids had them.

Workplaces "are changing because the fundamentals have changed," Goldin told me, even though mothers "have been scarred" by the pandemic. Remote work has become normalized, and some power is at least temporarily back in the hands of workers, who have a bit of leverage in a tighter labor market.

She's not delusional about the challenges ahead. Goldin writes: "We're often guilty of disregarding the enormous scale and long history of gender disparities. A single company slapped on the wrist, one more woman who makes it to the boardroom, a few progressive tech leaders who go on paternity leave — such solutions are the economic equivalent of tossing a box of Band-Aids to someone with bubonic plague."

The main reason she is optimistic, though, is that the pandemic, she said, may have "changed greedy jobs to be less greedy, and we have changed flexible jobs to be more productive."

The new problem with no name is "greedy work"

Goldin dissects the numerous factors that go into the gender wage gap, which is larger for mothers than for women who do not have children, and finds that the biggest problem is what economists call greedy work: "high-salary jobs with long, inflexible hours," according to one Harvard Business Review article. Highly educated women tend to be married to highly educated men, and when both partners have greedy jobs, it's typically women who step back to tend to family, because most "parents cannot (and do not want to) contract away all care for their children," Goldin writes. (Single parents have less room to step back, and same-sex couples can often avoid the normative gender expectations that opposite-sex couples deal with.)

As an example, she focuses on research that compared female M.B.A. graduates and their male counterparts. Right after graduation, women earned close to the same as their male counterparts. But 13 years later, Goldin found, women earned "64 cents on the male dollar." The pay gap can be explained by the parental leave trade-offs that working moms have to make: Often the highest-paying jobs require such long hours that mothers can't consider taking those jobs, and the jobs that still require long hours (even if not quite as long) pay less.

Surprisingly, to me at least, was that the occupational sector with the smallest gender earnings gap Goldin studied was for engineers: "Women in tech earn 94 cents on the male tech dollar," she said. That's because many tech workers tend to have fewer time constraints at work and less structured work, with more autonomy to determine their goals and priorities, and their work depends less on interpersonal relationships than it does in, perhaps, chummier sectors of the corporate world. The largest gaps were among M.D.s and J.D.s — likely because doctors' and lawyers' jobs allow less flexible schedules and, especially for doctors, are done in person and in coordination with many other people.

Ratio of women's earnings to men's for college graduates, by occupational sector. Note: Earnings are adjusted for age, hours and weeks worked and education beyond a bachelor's degree; data used aggregate the American Community Survey for 2009-16.The New York Times

Loss of family time is a loss for everyone, not just mothers.

The silver lining of the otherwise devastating pandemic, Goldin said, is a "massively coordinated equilibrium," in which we discovered that a lot of work could be done virtually and many people who spent a lot of time traveling for work found out that it wasn't quite as necessary. In the Covid era, fathers have been able to spend more time with their children — though still less than the time spent by mothers, and mothers in greedy jobs — and perhaps realized how much they were losing by working so many hours.

That's important: One of my gripes with the way this issue is framed is that we too often say career women are losing when they have to devote more time to parenting. Goldin is hopeful that we can change the conversation to look at how much fathers, too, are losing by spending so much time at work. "I hear it from my students, who, of course, are the workers of tomorrow, that they don't want a life in which they're not home for dinner with their kids," she said. "They want to have a family, and they want to have the type of family that eats together."

Pandemic woes have also brought conversations about the challenges of working mothers to the fore. Though paid leave was stripped out of the most recent version of President Biden's Build Back Better legislation, universal pre-K and child care provisions are still in play, and if they become law, will be a boon for all families, particularly those with working moms. "Who ever thought that coming out of this pandemic, we'd be talking about universal preschool?" Goldin said.

Good point. As uncertain as things remain for parents across the board, I don't want to lose sight of progress, however glacial that progress might seem.

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Want More on Working Parents?

  • One double-underlined sentence from Goldin's book: "When couple equity is abandoned, gender equality in the workplace" is also abandoned. This year, I interviewed a sociologist about how couples can better balance the so-called mental load — "a mostly invisible combination of anxiety and planning at home.
  • For a less optimistic framing, Sydney Ember asks, "What if It Never Gets Easier to Be a Working Parent?"
  • A lack of reliable child care is one factor that's making pandemic life rough on American mothers.

Tiny Victories

Parenting can be a grind. Let's celebrate the tiny victories.

My 4-year-old kept asking me to "make the sky darker" every morning so she could sleep more and threw a tantrum when I said I couldn't. Finally I stood at the window and yelled for the sky to get darker, and she dissolved in giggles and popped right out of bed.

Cat Wu, Odenton, Md.

If you want a chance to get your Tiny Victory published, find us on Instagram @NYTparenting and use the hashtag #tinyvictories; email us; or enter your Tiny Victory at the bottom of this page. Include your full name and location. Tiny Victories may be edited for clarity and style. Your name, location and comments may be published, but your contact information will not. By submitting to us, you agree that you have read, understand and accept the Reader Submission Terms in relation to all of the content and other information you send to us.

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