2021年11月17日 星期三

The T List: Six things we recommend this week

A new theater district hotel, a perfume subscription service — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

Just in Time for a Rebooted Broadway

The bar at Civilian.Johnny Miller

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

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Having long since populated downtown New York with Sixty SoHo and Sixty LES, hotelier Jason Pomeranc heads above 14th Street with his latest venture, Civilian. Situated in a 27-story building on a West 48th Street block equidistant from Times Square, Hell's Kitchen and the theater district, Civilian is that rarest of birds, a midtown hotel that's both stylish — it was built by starchitect David Rockwell's Rockwell Group — and affordable. Inside, theater-world flourishes predominate: a lobby threshold entered via Broadway stage doors, a vestibule decorated with black-and-white backstage photographs and 203 cozy guest rooms with costume-trunk-inspired closets. A ground-floor bistro will open early next year; in the meantime, the bar offers one of the city's largest vermouth selections. Grand-opening rates from $149, civilianhotel.com.

BUY THIS

A Product Perfectionist

From left: Takamichi's Shampoo Ichi.1 and Conditioner Ichi.1.The Behrens

Hair stylist Takamichi Saeki, who's known for his curation of minimalist beauty aids at his store Takamichi Beauty Room in New York, will now have his own line, known as Ichi.1 (ichi being the Japanese word for "one"). The "simple, streamlined, timeless" products — a shampoo, conditioner, body soap and lotion — have been "carefully considered down to the smallest details," according to Saeki, and are made from wild-crafted extracts developed by a family factory in Parma, Italy (the soap was made in France). The shampoo and conditioner are suitable for all hair types and feature strengthening camellia oil; the glycerin soap is moisturizing; and the argan-oil-rich body lotion sinks deep into the skin. All four feature a discreet scent, created by Takasago International Corporation, Japan's oldest fragrance house, that's somehow both musky and green. And the minimally designed packaging completes the meticulously edited effect. From $35, takamichibeautyroom.com.

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WEAR THIS

A Fashionable Blend of Form and Function

A look from High Sport's inaugural collection.Tanya and Zhenya Posternak

By Monica Mendal

T Contributor

"Most people I know have a closet full of clothes and nothing to wear," says Alissa Zachary, a former merchandising director for the Row. In an effort to redress this all-too-common imbalance between chic and utility, she created her own stretch knitwear brand High Sport, which launches this month. Rooted in classic American fashion — which Zachary defines as "an effortless union of form and function" — but made in Italy from the highest-quality cotton, her collection comprises colorful wardrobe essentials like tops, bottoms, dresses and outerwear. Intended for active women in search of comfortable, uncomplicated clothing, High Sport is proof that the post-pandemic premium on comfort needn't involve a deficit of style. "I set out to create something entirely new and wearable, infused with vibrancy and fun." From $500, high-sport.com.

TRY THIS

When Life Gives You Olives

Left: Beauty Thinkers' Antioxidant Boost facial oil. Right: a centenary olive tree in Umbria, Italy.Beauty Thinkers

By Eleonore Condo

T Contributor

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Shortly after leaving his position as CEO of Tod's in 2018 and settling on the outskirts of Perugia in Umbria, Claudio Castiglioni founded a new venture: Beauty Thinkers, a skin-care line inspired by the often centuries-old olive trees of the neighboring Castello Monte Vibiano. He'd learned that when the estate's olives are pressed to make some of Italy's finest olive oil, the water extruded as a by-product is exceptionally high in antioxidants. And so, with help from a lab affiliated with the local university and a "horizontal collective" of agronomists, chemists and assorted skin-care enthusiasts, Castiglioni channeled this discovery into the creation of the Antioxidant Boost, a lightweight, non-greasy facial oil, and Antioxidant Cream, a gentle, ultra-hydrating lotion. Both are plant-based with minimal ingredients and fragrance-free, and come in refillable bottles with a sophisticated, non-gendered design. Come the New Year, Beauty Thinkers will release a series of hydrators and sun creams as part of the same line. From $78, beautythinkers.com.

SHOP THIS

The Art of the Quotidian

Left: Erin Rouse's Gallo Hand Broom, available at Civilian Objects. Right: an overdyed indigo apron sold exclusively at Civilian Objects' pop-up shop.Brian W. Ferry

By Natalia Rachlin

T Contributor

When Ksenia Kagner and Nicko Elliott, the wife-and-husband team behind the New York-based architecture and interiors studio Civilian, would travel abroad for projects, they'd invariably return home with a suitcase full of practical household items that appealed to their finely honed design sense: soup ladles, tape dispensers, notebooks. As of last month, the couple have made a selection of these items available with the launch of Civilian Objects, an online retail platform that offers an array of beautiful everyday objects, from double-pronged brass hooks by the Roman hardware workshop Poignee (discovered while Kagner and Elliott were renovating a palazzo) to a set of nesting pine kitchen bowls made by a fifth-generation Portuguese family business. From Nov. 18 to 23, Civilian Objects debuts offline with a pop-up shop at Oliver coffee shop in New York's Chinatown. "The possibility of being able to nerd out with others about the patina of raw brass," says Kagner, "how could we ask for anything more?" From $15, civilianobjects.com.

SMELL THIS

Recapturing Perfume's Elemental Roots

Left: Ffern founders Owen Mears and Emily Cameron. Right: Ffern's Autumn 21 release. Left: Elena Heatherwick. Right: Kendal Noctor

By Aimee Farrell

T Contributor

Siblings Emily Cameron and Owen Mears grew up surrounded by scents in a village in Somerset, England, where wafts of apples and fresh-cut hay would mingle with a cocktail of cumin, cinnamon and cloves from a local herb farm. "It was only when I left home and moved to the city that I realized how much fragrance had been a part of our lives," says Mears. To recapture this intoxicating landscape, the pair launched Ffern, a small-batch organic-scent subscription service, created with fourth-generation perfumer François Robert. Quarterly releases, each evoking a particular place and timed either to the solstice or the equinox, are mailed to a "ledger" of clients whose number is kept low in order to ensure the integrity of the artisanal production process. This winter's fragrance summons the English seaside town of Lyme Regis via a heady blend of mimosa, sweet orange, bergamot, vetiver and marjoram. From $129, ffern.co to register for waiting list (customers will receive an invitation to join the client ledger via text shortly thereafter).

T'S INSTAGRAM

An Antiquarian's Parisian Homecoming

In a salon of Jean-Paul Beaujard's Paris apartment, a 19th-century marble bust of Dalila by Antonin Mercié sits on a French 1830s buffet with pietra dura inlay. Beaujard designed the blue-and-green jaguar-print carpet himself.Thibault Montamat

For nearly 50 years, beginning in 1969, the Burgundy-born antiques dealer Jean-Paul Beaujard was an Upper East Side authority on all things 19th-century French, an interpreter of the Napoleonic aesthetic for generations of Manhattanites. Beaujard, who knew he wanted to be an antiques dealer at age 10 and began amassing items at auction when he was 14, used his Art Deco duplex apartment two blocks north of his namesake East 76th Street store as a canvas for his magpie personal tastes. No matter how permanent his tableaus seemed, he could, overnight, change everything, moving a lion paw table in the lavish Troubadour style of Charles X or a giltwood velvet-covered sofa to showcase a seven-foot-tall palm tree made of brass and steel. In 2017, he suddenly made the life-changing decision to leave behind his adopted city to live full time in Paris, his first hometown. And, in the several years since his return, he has lavished his two-bedroom home — which occupies the top two floors of a six-story 1910 Art Nouveau building on the corner of a wide boulevard in the Seventh Arrondissement — with the full force of his fecund imagination, blending his signature theatricality with a new dose of insouciance. To read Nancy Hass's story, visit us a tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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2021年11月15日 星期一

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2021年11月12日 星期五

The Daily: The Claim of Self-Defense Gun Use

Americans are armed out of fear. But is that fear founded?

Welcome to the weekend, everyone. We'd love to know whether there is a podcast you're listening to as the days get shorter, or if you have a question you want to hear answered on our show. You can let us know here.

Today in the newsletter, we share the story behind our soundtrack for Wednesday's episode and dive deeper into a subject we've been covering regularly: the implications of an armed American public.

We've looked at Joe Biden's 30-year quest for gun control, the frequency of gun violence in the U.S. and other countries' swift actions to limit mass shootings. And as you heard on Monday, the Supreme Court is considering a case that could make guns even more prevalent in public spaces across the country.

So today, we wanted to share a playlist of shows that offer perspectives on the challenges and opportunities of gun control. We also wanted to look more closely at an idea that runs through these episodes — that Americans believe they need guns for self-defense.

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The Big Idea: How often are guns used in self-defense, really?

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

The Supreme Court is reviewing a New York law that requires people seeking a license to carry a handgun in public to show a "proper cause."Eduardo Munoz/Reuters

For years, the Rev. Rob Schenck was staunchly pro-gun rights — he even wrote a book connecting the Second Amendment to the Ten Commandments. But then he experienced a conversion at a hotel in Lancaster, Pa.

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At an evangelical fund-raiser he was hosting in 2014, Schenck found himself alone with a friend, a fellow pastor from Florida. (Schenck asked not to share his friend's name out of respect for his privacy.) As their conversation turned to the topic of gun violence, the friend lifted his sports coat to reveal a "Glock 9 millimeter on his belt," and said, "I am never without this, it's with me 100 percent of my waking hours, including when I'm preaching," Schenck recalled. The friend added that if someone came in to attack his congregation, he'd "take him out from the sacred desk."

Schenck inquired his friend about the hypothetical: But what if, in an effort to protect his congregation, he hit a child by accident? "He said, 'I think that's the risk we take when we defend those innocent people,'" Schenck remembered. It's a risk that didn't sit well with Schenck, who soon became an outspoken evangelical advocate for gun control.

The rationale that guns are needed for self-defense is pervasive. It's why a majority of American gun owners say they're armed, the defense that Kyle Rittenhouse has used in his homicide trial — and a concern cited by conservative Supreme Court justices currently considering the constitutionality of restrictions on carrying guns outside the home. But how often are guns used in self-defense, really?

"It's pretty rare," David Hemenway, director of the Harvard Injury Control Research Center, said, despite the fact that gun violence in the U.S. is exceptionally common. There are more guns in the country than people, and nearly 40,000 Americans died because of gun violence in 2019. A majority of those deaths were suicides. From 2007 to 2011, only about 1 percent of people who were crime victims claimed to have used a gun to protect themselves — and the average person had "basically no chance in their lifetime ever to use a gun in self-defense," Dr. Hemenway told NPR in 2018.

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Still, there are a few reasons getting exact numbers on the prevalence of what researchers call "self-defense gun use" is tricky. A study cited by the C.D.C. indicates a "range of 60,000 to 2.5 million defensive gun uses each year." A large majority of firearms researchers, however, "think that's a wild overestimate for two reasons," Dr. Hemenway said. First, survey respondents are often shown to report the timing and frequencies of events inaccurately, a phenomenon known as the telescoping effect.

Additionally, people involved in gun violence often claim self-defense, even if the facts of the case don't support that claim — a self-presentation bias that can make data unreliable. And when trying to measure rare events, any margin of survey error can create huge variables in the results.

Conservative proponents of gun rights often cite the higher end of the estimated range as evidence of prevalent "positive" gun use. "These studies don't deter the simple fact that a gun in the hands of a good person can save lives," said Amy Hunter, director of media relations at the National Rifle Association.

Although these stories often make headlines, experts say they are outliers — and note that the presence of a gun increases the risk of a fatality. Homicides are 6.8 times more common in states with the most guns versus those with the least, and access to a gun triples the likelihood of death by suicide.

So while Americans continue to arm themselves out of fear, a criminologist in Britain suggests a different approach.

Erin Sanders-McDonagh, a senior lecturer in criminology at the University of Kent in Canterbury, said that while parents at her son's school in London "are terrified of their kids getting mugged," the answer wasn't to arm themselves or their kids in a city where knife violence was common.

"I see them putting their kids in taxis, finding alternative routes of getting them around London, making sure they go out in groups or using technology to make sure that they're safe," Dr. Sanders-McDonagh said. "The response isn't to send them out with a machete and hope that they're going to come back OK."

Behind the music for the Mediterranean

An abandoned boat used by migrants on the beach near the Spanish village of Vejer de la Frontera.Samuel Aranda for The New York Times

On Wednesday's episode, we heard the story of Martín Zamora, the owner of a funeral parlor in Algeciras, Spain, who has taken on an unusual line of work: He is committed to identifying the bodies of migrants who have washed up on shore, and then getting their bodies back to their homes so that they can be buried.

The producer Rachelle Bonja, along with our audio fellow Chelsea Daniel, created some of the original music for the episode. Below, you can take a closer listen to two of their songs:

A somber theme [Listen]

When Rachelle told me about this episode she was producing, I was struck by her descriptions of Martín: a 61-year-old man who is always wearing a suit, and whose job is to rescue the bodies of drowned migrants. Martín is often the last person in contact with the migrants before they are returned to their families. With this in mind, I wanted to write a song that combined elements of the water where the migrants are found with a melody that represents the somberness of Martín's daily work.

The piece is underscored by an ambient drone that sounds like water bubbling. I wanted the music to feel both reflective and warm, so I incorporated an arpeggiated mandolin line anchored by a bass. It becomes more prominent in the middle of the piece and then disappears back into the texture of the ambient drone. — Chelsea Daniel

Achraf's song [Listen]

I wanted to make a piece for Achraf Ameer, a 27-year-old from Morocco, who had been missing for weeks before Martín reached his family. This piece is dedicated to Achraf — and to all the people who take this very dangerous journey across this sea border in search for a better life.

I was inspired by Kaori Muraji's rendition of "Gnossienne No. 1" by Erik Satie, because it perfectly strikes a balance between hope and melancholy — a tension that felt present in Achraf's tragic journey. I also wanted to represent the Mediterranean, a sea that I have a strong personal connection to and that is the heart of this story. I included a moving harp line to echo the sound and quality of its waves — always flowing, transporting people far from home, and the site of many emotional journeys.

It's a strange feeling to write music for people who will never hear it. I hope that in telling Achraf's story — and trying to grasp the emotional toll of migration across the sea — we can translate the experience for the part of the world that lives far from it. — Rachelle Bonja

On The Daily this week

Monday: A Supreme Court case that could transform America's relationship with guns.

Tuesday: Representative Abigail Spanberger of Virginia, a moderate Democrat, discusses her reservations about President Biden's agenda.

Wednesday: The story of Martín Zamora: When migrants die at sea, he gets them home.

Thursday: A Times investigation found that 100 new laws have been passed that wrest power from public health officials. How will this affect America's response to a future pandemic?

Friday: Are we at the end of the pandemic? We ask Dr. Anthony S. Fauci.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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