2021年12月10日 星期五

The Daily: The Fight for Feminism in China

What Peng Shuai's assault accusations reveal about the state of the movement in China.

Hello, and welcome to the weekend. Today in the newsletter, we're going deeper on today's episode about the censoring of Peng Shuai, the Chinese tennis star. Then, we tell the personal story behind our episode on Stephen Sondheim.

The big idea: Can #MeToo survive censorship in China?

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

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Peng Shuai at the China Open in Beijing in 2017.Greg Baker/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

There was a time before the arrests, trolling and censorship that Li Maizi felt something like hope.

In 2012, as part of a group of Chinese activists now known as the Feminist Five, she walked through a busy Beijing district in a wedding gown spattered with blood-red paint, protesting domestic violence. Afterward, the group started a movement to occupy men's restrooms in protest of inequities in public bathrooms, garnering widespread media attention.

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But by 2015, she was deemed a threat. Before a planned demonstration on International Women's Day that year, she and other activists were detained by Chinese authorities, prompting international outcry. "Now, it's very limited what I can do in China," Ms. Li, now 32, said. She has been forced to move her work online, part of a "decentralized movement" of women agitating for gender equity in the brief moments their activism evades government censorship.

As you heard on today's show, censorship of women in China is being re-examined after Peng Shuai, the tennis star, accused Zhang Gaoli, a former Chinese vice premier, of sexual assault. Her online accusation was promptly censored, resulting in sporting boycotts and international outrage. Now, the question remains: Will anything change for women in China?

A regression in women's rights

Discrimination against women in China is on the rise — a reversal from the early decades of Communist rule, when Chinese women entered the work force in record numbers and began to enjoy greater rights.

In recent years, President Xi Jinping has led a resurgence in promoting traditional gender roles, calling on women to "shoulder the responsibilities of taking care of the old and young, as well as educating children" while trying to stimulate a baby boom. (Thirty years ago, Chinese women earned just under 80 percent of what men made, but, by 2010, the average income of women in Chinese cities fell to 67 percent of that of men — and, in the countryside, 56 percent.)

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Still, feminist ideas have slowly entered the mainstream, and many women have been encouraged by the small gains in the country's nascent #MeToo movement which has inched across the media, education and private sectors in China. Ms. Peng's accusation was the first time the #MeToo movement in China touched the pinnacles of Communist Party power.

"It's a very remarkable thing," Ms. Li said. "When I heard the news from my girlfriend's friend, I checked Twitter and said, 'Holy God.'"

Scrambling to censor

A Times investigation revealed how, within minutes, the Chinese government removed not only Ms. Peng's post but also nearly all references to the accusation. It also restricted digital spaces where people might discuss it.

To Xi Jinping, "the problem here was that a retired top-level official could potentially be brought into disrepute or be brought down by some celebrities or dissidents, particularly of the female gender," Steve Tsang, director of the SOAS China Institute, said. "To him, that was just unacceptable."

"If that allegation had been allowed to stay and were investigated, it could have triggered more responses and been a turning point in terms of China's #MeToo movement," Mr. Tsang added. "But that didn't happen."

Ms. Li also said she didn't "think it will be the cornerstone" of a revived #MeToo movement in China. Many women who have come forward with allegations of sexual harassment and assault have faced pushback in the courts, state censorship and aggressive trolling online. To those deciding whether to come forward, the swift silencing of such a high-profile figure will be taken as a warning.

The 'butterfly effect' of Peng Shuai's allegations

In the days since Ms. Peng's post went live, Beijing appeared to close its iron fist in an effort to mitigate damage. And the censors might have succeeded if Steve Simon, the head of the Women's Tennis Association, had not spoken out on Nov. 14, calling on Beijing to investigate Ms. Peng's accusations and stop trying to bury her case.

"I think there has been significant impact already on Chinese formal diplomacy," Mr. Tsang said. The Biden administration and the United Nations human rights office have joined the tennis association in calling for Beijing to provide proof of Ms. Peng's well-being.

"It also has significant impact on Chinese soft power," Mr. Tsang added, noting that major celebrities including Naomi Osaka, Roger Federer, Novak Djokovic, Serena Williams, Rafael Nadal and Billie Jean King have been speaking out in support of Ms. Peng — calling attention to Chinese authoritarianism ahead of the 2022 Winter Olympic Games in Beijing.

It's the soft power implications that give Ms. Li renewed hope, in spite of the censorship. "I still think that #MeToo has the power to push the women's movement forward in China," she said. "Once you speak out, it has a butterfly effect, and more and more people are willing to speak out too, in time."

From The Daily team: The story behind our Sondheim episode

Stephen Sondheim in 1990. Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times

Last Friday on The Daily, we looked at the life and career of Stephen Sondheim, the Broadway songwriting titan who died in late November at his home in Roxbury, Conn. He was 91.

Luke Vander Ploeg, our lead producer on the episode, is a Sondheim superfan. Below, our producer Rachelle Bonja interviews Luke about what Sondheim meant to him. Their conversation has been edited for brevity and clarity.

RACHELLE: What was your first experience of Sondheim?

LUKE: My first real experience of Sondheim, which got me completely obsessed with him and his work, was when I was a freshman in college. I went to school in the suburbs of Chicago. I was in a class called theater survey, and we would occasionally go into Chicago to see shows. So we took a bus into the city to see "Sunday in the Park With George."

It's a musical that follows Georges Seurat, the French 19th-century artist who was best known for his pointillist painting "A Sunday on La Grande Jatte." The musical is about what you gain and sacrifice as an artist, and how to be an artist when you don't feel like there's anything left for you to make.

After watching the first act, I'll be honest — I wasn't sold on Sondheim. I went out for intermission, and I start talking with friends who felt the same way. We just didn't get it, you know? The music was at times semi-atonal, and the show was light on plot. It was more about the psychological exploration of characters, and I wasn't used to that.

But when I watched the second act, I was completely jolted. Suddenly you're thrust into present day (1984) and all of the actors are playing new characters. The character who played Seurat is now playing his great-grandson, also an artist named George. I had thought of the show as a period piece, but all of a sudden it was like a time-traveling, abstract work that took on an entirely new dimension.

RACHELLE: What are your favorite lines from this musical?

LUKE: The song that always gets me is "Move On." In the second act, the modern-day George is struggling with the feeling that he can't make any new art. Dot, Seurat's love interest from the first act, appears and tells him that he needs to "Just keep moving on / Anything you do / Let it come from you / Then it will be new / Give us more to see."

To me, it's a song about art being what you make when you continue to move forward. The act of worrying about whether your work is different or special enough is anathema to a life in art.

RACHELLE: What did you feel when you heard he died?

LUKE: I usually do not feel a lot of things when celebrities die, but I really lost it with Sondheim.

I think his work has been an important part of me becoming an adult. It's like his songs are actually a part of my worldview now. He informed things about me that are deeply private — that go to the core of who I am. So yeah, I felt a lot of grief, but also gratitude and grace.

On The Daily this week

Monday: During the trial of Ghislaine Maxwell, we ask: Is justice possible without Jeffrey Epstein?

Wednesday: Why Russian troops are gathering at the Ukrainian border.

Thursday: A Times investigation looks at one website connected to the suicides of 45 people and asks: How is it allowed to operate?

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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2021年12月8日 星期三

The T List: Holiday Gift Guide, Part II

Beauty stocking stuffers, cashmere slippers, homemade pasta — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. For this week, we've turned it into the second installment of our holiday gift guide, with recommendations from T staffers on what we're coveting for ourselves this season, as well as the gifts we're thinking of giving our friends and loved ones. Read the first edition here, and sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

WRAP PARTY

Cashmere Scarves With Old-World Charm

A selection of scarves from the Lukas the Illustrator x SAVED Collection, $360 each, saved-ny.com.Courtesy of Saved New York

By David Farber

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While a scarf may not be the most unexpected gift you give this holiday season, thanks to a recent collaboration between Saved NY — the home goods store and line founded by Sean McNanney — and the artist Lukas Palumbo, also known as Lukas The Illustrator, it could be the most beautiful. Saved NY is known for its sustainable Mongolian cashmere blankets and fashion accessories and Palumbo for finding inspiration in nature and 16th-, 17th- and 18th-century etchings. Cue seven original hand-spun, handwoven felted cashmere scarves featuring a range of vibrant designs that will take you back in time: One shows a ship on the high seas while another features a knight returning, presumably triumphant, after having had a faraway adventure.

CUP OF NOODLES

A Pasta-Themed Cookbook — and a Ceramic Bowl to Serve Your Creations In

From left: Jono Pandolfi Union Bowl, $52, jonopandolfi.com; "Pasta: The Spirit and Craft of Italy's Greatest Food, With Recipes," $40, bookshop.org.Courtesy of Jono Pandolfi Designs

To me, there's no better wintertime gift than a warm bowl of pasta — and no better pasta chef in America than Missy Robbins, of Brooklyn's Lilia and Misi restaurants. This month, in collaboration with the New Jersey-based ceramist Jono Pandolfi (who made dinnerware for Lilia), she's created the clay Union Bowl, which comes in three neutral shades, and has a deep shape that's perfect for piling high with noodles; for the actual pasta, you could go one of two ways, depending on the culinary talents of the person you're treating: Robbins and her partner, Talia Baiocchi, recently released "Pasta: The Spirit and Craft of Italy's Greatest Food, With Recipes," a comprehensive, beautifully photographed cookbook ideal for months spent hibernating. Or, if such kitchen skills can't be relied upon, just send them fresh pasta, sauce and other provisions from Misi Pasta, the chef's own online retailer, which ships nationwide.

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ARRESTING ACCENTS

Daisy Earrings and Fragrant Rings

From left: Bernard James earrings, $590, bernardjames.com; Jodan ring, $120, rikumo.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Jameson Montgomery

In many cultures, the humble daisy symbolizes regeneration, a prescient theme for the dawn of a new year. For a pair of blooms that will last longer than those picked from a field, look to the Brooklyn-based jewelry designer Bernard James. His daisy-shaped studs are handcrafted from 14-karat gold and would make a charming gift for anyone looking for something of a fresh start. Or, for a piece of jewelry that smells like a flower, try one of the aromatic rings from Jodan, which is based in Arita, Japan. The otherwise minimalist ceramic bands have raised square or half-moon-shaped gold leaf accents that are meant to be daubed with essential oils (sold separately), and will carry their scent all day long.

STOCKING STUFFERS

A Marble-Handled Body Brush and Raspberry-Red Lipstick

From left: Officine Universelle Buly 1803 Acetate Buly Toothbrush, about $45, buly1803.com; Byredo Mad Red lipstick, $42, byredo.com; Bathe Anointing Oil, from $30, bathebrand.com; Gilded Body Marble Body Brush, from $88, gildedbody.com.Courtesy of the brands

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A beauty-and-wellness-themed stocking is sure to leave loved ones in need of a little extra pampering looking and feeling their best. To that end — Gilded Body offers a handmade Marble Body Brush, a dry brush that tackles rough winter skin. Then there's Bathe's Anointing Oils, which, when massaged into the skin before a bath or shower, create an immersive, aromatherapeutic experience. (Try any of the brand's four calming scents — palo santo and vetiver; neroli and myrrh; lavender and sandalwood; and clary sage and citrus — or its Discovery Set, which includes a one-ounce bottle of each.) To spoil someone in need of serious unwinding, Crystal Greene, a facialist based in New York City, offers gift cards for her deeply relaxing La Sculpture facial, a rejuvenating treatment that incorporates massage techniques and leaves skin luminous. Once glowing from head to toe, your recipient will be in need of a finishing touch, perhaps in the form of Byredo's Mad Red lipstick, a vibrant raspberry shade with a matte finish and a sculptural applicator that's perfect for any holiday party. Or, for a more unexpected trinket, throw in an elegant acetate toothbrush with silk bristles from Officine Universelle Buly 1803, which can be engraved with the future brusher's initials in the font of your choice.

TOAST-WORTHY DRINKS

Korean Rice Wine and Tennessee Whiskey

From left: Hana Makgeolli Ssuk Makgeolli, $24, hanamakgeolli.com; Uncle Nearest 1884 Small Batch Whiskey, $49, unclenearest.com.Courtesy of the brands

December is holiday-party season, and a nice bottle of booze is always a reliable Yuletide offering. For a beverage with a back story, try the artisanal rice wine from Hana Makgeolli. The Brooklyn-based producer was founded last year by the first-generation Korean American Alice Jun, who'd started making the milky Korean concoction in her apartment using organic rice and traditional brewing techniques she learned from her father growing up. She and her business partner, John Limb, also offer gift cards that can be used at their tasting room, where their makgeolli is served alongside housemade bar food, including Dubu Kimchi (steamed tofu with sautéed kimchi) and Bossam (braised pork belly and cabbage). If you'd prefer a dark liquor, there are various worthy options from Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey, founded in 2017 by Fawn Weaver with an aim to pay homage to the first known African American master distiller, Nearest Green. All of the brand's offerings, including its 1856 Premium Aged Whiskey and the 1884 Premium Small Batch Whiskey, are distilled, aged and bottled in Tennessee, where Green was born.

HOME AND AWAY

Cashmere Slippers and Soothing Incense

From left: Vyrao Ember Incense, $50, vyrao.com; John Lobb Knighton Slippers, $665, johnlobb.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Gage Daughdrill

Traveling around this time of year is always stressful, especially now. To temper the madness, and to dispel any preholiday jitters, I recommend creating a cozy environment wherever you land. Start by lighting a stick or two of incense from the London-based fragrance brand Vyrao. My favorite is Ember, which has notes of citrus and cedarwood, and comes in vibrant hues of neon orange, bright yellow and magenta. Then pad around your newly fragrant place in a pair of just-as-colorful Knighton slippers from the British heritage brand John Lobb. They're made of a soft and cushiony cashmere suede, and come with a zippable travel case that, going forward, you won't leave home without.

GAME TIME

A Floral Puzzle, Lucite Chess Pieces and More

Clockwise from top left: Sunnylife Lucite Chess & Checkers set, $220, sunnylife.com; Parks Project's Minimalist National Park Playing Cards, $14, parksproject.us; Piecework Tall Poppy puzzle, $32, pieceworkpuzzles.com; Monopoly ISSIMO board game, about $142, issimoissimo.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Kristina Samulewski

Games are always an easy way to bring family and friends together, and this year, there's something for everyone. Take the new Monopoly ISSIMO, made in collaboration with the Italian e-commerce retailer, which is an offshoot of the legendary Pellicano Hotels Group. Modeled after an Italian road trip, this update to the classic board game takes players through the country's 20 regions, highlighting iconic locations such as Fiordo di Furore, Stromboli and Burano, to name a few. For a more meditative endeavor, try Piecework's new Tall Poppy 500-piece puzzle, which, when assembled, reveals a fuchsia-toned photograph taken by the floral designer Doan Ly. Parks Project's Minimalist National Park Playing Cards, meanwhile, feature illustrations of scenes from the Badlands, the Grand Canyon and other national parks, and proceeds from the deck go to supporting the protection and preservation of public lands. Finally, for the aesthetes on your list, Sunnylife's Lucite Chess & Checkers board is an eye-catching two-in-one game set whose transparent pieces are miniature sculptural works in their own right.

SMALL PACKAGES

Personal-Feeling Jewelry and Antique Trays

From left: Panconesi Famiglia necklace, $465, marcopanconesi.com; Vintage trinket trays from Ren, from $20, shop-ren.com.Courtesy of the brands

When I give jewelry to a friend, it's important to me that it's more than just a beautiful piece, so I begin by choosing a maker whose work feels deeply personal. One example is the Florentine designer Marco Panconesi, who draws on his memories of travels with his family. I especially like this pendant necklace of his with layered chains and a blue obsidian dipped in green enamel. Another is Ren, founded by Crystal Ung, whose mission is to honor and extend her Asian American heritage through modern jade pieces. And if jewelry simply feels too intimidating of a gift, consider one of her vintage trinket trays, which are sourced from Asia, date back to the 19th century and work perfectly for holding already-owned baubles.

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