2022年1月12日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A ryokan-style spa in France, paintings by Somaya Critchlow — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Kyoto by Way of Paris

All Maison Suisen treatments are inspired by traditional shiatsu, which can be enjoyed on traditional futons in solo or duo ryokan-style cabins.Maxime Frogé

By Monica Mendal

T Contributor

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Lyon-born Sandra Jollet had long been fascinated by the holistic philosophies associated with shiatsu massage, having been exposed to them at a young age by her father, an acupuncturist and shiatsu therapist. But it wasn't until she visited Japan that she decided she would one day open a ryokan-style spa of her own in France, a vision that has now come to fruition with Maison Suisen, located in the heart of Paris's popular Marais district. From the moment guests walk in the door, Maison Suisen embodies the concept of omotenashi, or the art of hospitality, asking each visitor to select from an assortment of organic teas procured from Japan that they then brew and serve after treatment. In addition to other services, guests can choose between traditional shiatsu, on tatami and futon, or a more contemporary setup with massage table and aromatic oil. From $130, suisen.fr.

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Painting Herself Into the Canon

From left: Somaya Critchlow's "Kim's Blue Hair With Dog" (2019) and "Untitled (Mandolin)" (2019).Courtesy of the artist (from "Somaya Critchlow: Paintings," published by Skira Editore)

By Kin Woo

T Contributor

As an art student at the University of Brighton and then the Royal Drawing School in London, the now 28-year-old artist Somaya Critchlow noticed a dearth of depictions of Black women in Western art. "I was feeling isolated, so I thought I would confront myself," she says of deciding to draw her own body. "As soon as I started drawing myself nude, I started to enjoy myself." These self-portraits soon evolved into a broader celebration of Black femininity, one showcased in her first monograph, "Somaya Critchlow: Paintings." Referencing disparate influences — Renaissance and rococo portraiture, the surrealism of Leonor Finney and David Lynch and the unapologetic carnality of pop stars like Cardi B and Nicki Minaj — Critchlow depicts curvaceous women, often in varying states of undress, inhabiting an ambiguous zone between sexualized object and playfully independent subject. $40, artbook.com.

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Pieces With a Sense of Place

Left: Studio Rrres Grid 04 Rug. Right: Marta Bonilla Volta lamp in terra-cotta.Courtesy of the brands

By Natalia Rachlin

T Contributor

Handcrafted objects by international artisans are the raison d'être of En Place, a new digital shop for home décor that is the brainchild of Alexis Kanter, a creative consultant and former market editor at Vanity Fair. From a playful raffia-and-clay table lamp by the Spanish ceramist Marta Bonilla to a graphic black-and-white chair upholstered in hand-loomed natural wool by the Guatemala-based store Meso Goods, the curated selection is presented against a chic editorial backdrop that includes maker stories and city guides, adding context and narrative to every piece. "I wanted to create a marketplace that you could shop online, but also in an experiential way that wasn't traditional bricks and mortar," says Kanter. Later this year, En Place will also collaborate with a handful of hotels (including Hôtel le Sud in Antibes, France, and Lisbon's Santa Clara 1728), allowing guests to shop their wares with the click of a button. "I like to think of it as a reimagining of the hotel gift shop," she says, "making it seamless to bring home something meaningful that really tells the story of a place." From $24, en-place.co.

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Fragrance Inspired by Korean Culture

Elorea's signature eau de parfum collection, the Elements, comprises four scents: Heaven, Earth, Water and Fire.Su min Park

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While shopping at a beauty store in Seoul a few years ago, the couple Su min Park and Wonny Lee realized that, though the shelves were filled with Korean products, the fragrance section offered only familiar Western brands. And so Park, a photographer and art director, and Lee, a marketing executive, who live in New York City, decided to start Elorea, a modern fragrance brand inspired by Korea's rich history and culture. "We were at a time in our lives where we wanted to get closer to our roots and culture," says Lee. A portmanteau of "element" and "Korea," Elorea launches with four distinctive scents named after the four trigrams adorning the South Korean flag: Heaven, Earth, Water and Fire. After extensive research, the couple sourced ingredients from various regions of South Korea, such as citrus from Jeju, which they mixed with camellia and nutmeg for the warm notes of amber and leather in Fire. From $170, elorea.com.

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The Line Liberated

From left: Elliott Puckette's "Confessional" (2021) and "Pivot" (2021)Photos: Diego Flores. Courtesy of the artist and Kasmin, New York

By Brian Ransom

T Contributor

Like many of us, the Brooklyn-based artist Elliott Puckette has spent the pandemic taking solace in what she can control while making peace with what she cannot. Her ninth solo exhibition with New York's Kasmin Gallery, which will also publish her first major monograph later this year, showcases her characteristically precise yet expansive line paintings alongside her first foray into sculpture, a medium she's long wanted to explore. Early attempts with plaster of Paris, wire, paper and clay did not pass muster. "It was an absolute disaster," Puckette says. "Then I realized it wasn't something I could do on my own; I needed to hand it over." Cast in bronze by Workshop Art Fabrication in Kingston, N.Y., and assembled from 117 discrete fragments, Puckette's first sculpture, "Pivot," represents a natural evolution of her career-long commitment to the line by manifesting it in three-dimensional space. What once meandered along inside the confines of the canvas has now broken free. "Elliott Puckette" is on view at Kasmin Gallery from Jan. 13 to Feb. 26, kasmingallery.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

A New Kind of Performance Piece

A look from Vaara.Letty Schmiterlow/Courtesy of Vaara

When the designer Kerhao Yin joined the London-based brand Vaara — founded in 2015 by Tatiana Korsakova — as its creative director last year, he sought to create multifunctional pieces that skew "more elegant than technical," he says. "A woman can go from home to work to the gym and then on to a night out. I wanted our pieces to be able to seamlessly thread through all these events." To that end, he and Korsakova prioritize performance fabrics, including jerseys and knits, that can move and adapt well in a range of different settings. And the brand now releases full collections that include fashion-forward pieces such as oversized wool anoraks, nylon bubble skirts and gathered cotton dresses (with collapsible turtleneck collars for added versatility) that organically sync with its core workout wear staples. To read more about Vaara and other lines offering workout clothes that are both functional and fashion-forward, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misstated the title of Trevor Padoll at Mush Studios; he is creative editor, not creative director.

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2022年1月7日 星期五

The Daily: Is America in Decline?

Did the Capitol insurrection make American decay a mainstream idea?

Welcome to the weekend. In today's newsletter, we look more closely at the state of American democracy, the subject of today's episode; examine the podcasting industry's role in spreading misinformation; and offer a behind-the-scenes look at how our three-part series on the Capitol riot came together.

The big idea: American decay

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

Al Drago for The New York Times
Author Headshot

By Lauren Jackson

Associate Audience Editor, Audio

The idea that America is in decline isn't new.

For decades, academics have warned that partisan gridlock, politicized courts and unfettered lobbying were like dangerous substances — if taken in excess, America's democratic systems were at risk of collapse.

But what happens when that idea goes mainstream? When words like "died," "decline" and "dagger" sit near "America" on front pages across the country? When a majority of the American public rewrites the story they tell themselves about their country's standing in the world?

That's what some experts say is happening now — that the Capitol riot and its aftermath have normalized a sense among Americans that the country, its economic system and its standing in the world are in decline. New data supports this claim: 70 percent of Americans believe the U.S. is "in crisis and at risk of failing," according to a recent poll.

As you heard in today's episode, fortifying America's democracy is not just about ensuring the trustworthiness of elections, but also about safeguarding Americans' belief in the possibility of change. So we wanted to dive deeper on the latter and ask: What happens when that self-conception falters — when Americans begin to believe their country isn't winning, but instead is losing a long battle?

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A fractured collective narrative at home

"Jan. 6 and then the Republican reaction is a really important turning point in the perception of American decline," said Francis Fukuyama, a political scientist and author. Mr. Fukuyama noted said that while he had been writing about American political decay for years, the concept had assumed more systemic import after the Capitol riots — and wider acceptance.

Just a few years ago, a majority of Americans believed the U.S. was one of the greatest nations in the world. In a Pew Research survey from 2017, 85 percent of respondents said either that the U.S. "stands above all other countries in the world" or that it is "one of the greatest countries, along with some others." Additionally, 58 percent of those surveyed said the American democracy was working "somewhat" or "very well."

"Prior to the rise of all this populism," Mr. Fukuyama said, "there was a basic progressive narrative to American history. And that was based on a Declaration of Independence and a Constitution that were flexible enough to be modified over time to be made more inclusive."

"This American narrative that has held us together, it doesn't hold anymore," he said, adding that the riot, "more than anything that happened during the Trump presidency, I think does underline that."

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Now, nearly two-thirds of respondents in the NPR/Ipsos poll agreed that U.S. democracy is "more at risk" now than it was a year ago. Among Republicans, that number climbs to four in five. This narrative persists on both sides of the political spectrum — with each side pointing the finger at the other as a threat to the nation's well-being. It's also a narrative that has direct effects on American democracy — polarizing partisanship on national and local levels, affecting critical legislative functions like passing budgets and limiting social consensus-building in response to crises like Covid.

In light of these varied crises, "what is most striking is not what has changed but what has not," Peter Baker, The Times's chief White House correspondent, wrote on the anniversary of the Capitol Riots. "America has not come together to defend its democracy; it has only split further apart."

It is this growing chasm that some political theorists say will be most difficult to reconcile in the interest of shoring up America's democratic institutions.

"We have two Americas," James Morone, a professor of political science at Brown University, said, with Americans in urban centers experiencing the benefits of globalization while many in rural areas feel left behind as the American middle class shrinks. These two Americas also often inhabit opposing factual realities, allowing misinformation to persist and even fuel violence. "And here's the thing: Each is represented by a different party. That's one reason the two-party system is breaking down."

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Rippling effects abroad

This national self-doubt also has implications for the perception of American strength and supremacy globally, a challenge for President Biden's foreign policy as his administration struggles to win back the global repute thrown into question by four years of "America First."

In his address at the Capitol on Jan. 6, Mr. Biden said, "Both at home and abroad, we're engaged anew in a struggle between democracy and autocracy."

Donald J. Trump and his allies continue to push a false retelling of the 2020 election, in which Democrats stole the vote and the Jan. 6 riot to disrupt President Biden's certification was largely peaceful or was staged by Mr. Trump's opponents. This approach is part of a broader transformation of authoritarian tactics globally, as Max Fisher, the Interpreter columnist at The Times, points out.

"Dictators have shifted emphasis from blunt-force repression (although this still happens, too) to subtler methods like manipulating information or sowing division, aimed at preventing dissent over suppressing it," he wrote. Now, history is being rewritten in Russia, Hungary and China, where governments are repressing and sanitizing elements of national history in favor of contemporary politics — as is also happening in the United States.

This tactical similarity with foreign autocrats, some experts argue, throws American ideals into question internationally. "If crucial facts can be denied by a major American party and millions of American citizens, aren't all American claims to truth and rationality suspect?" said Robert Daly, director of the Kissinger Institute on China.

"For as long as I can remember, U.S. democracy, even with its flaws, was held up as the gold standard of democracy worldwide," said Cynthia Aronson, director of the Latin America program at the Wilson Center. Now, according to a Pew Research survey, a median of just 17 percent of respondents said democracy in the U.S. is a good example for others to follow.

America still benefits from some positive reputational assessments around the world, with a majority of respondents to the Pew survey expressing favorable opinions on America's technology, its military and its entertainment output. But some experts argue those sources of soft power are also under threat in conjunction with democratic backsliding.

"One of the side effects of losing the democracy is losing control over the markets," Rebecca Henderson, a professor at Harvard Business School, said, adding, "I think it's an incredibly dangerous moment. I think we absolutely could lose the democracy."

Contextualizing Jan. 6: American democratic backsliding is a concept that can seem totalizing. So to break it down, here's a playlist to help you understand how we got here.

Did podcasts help incite the mob?

In a new analysis, the podcast run by Stephen K. Bannon, President Donald J. Trump's former adviser, was flagged 115 times for misinformation in a designated time period.Justin T. Gellerson for The New York Times
By Stuart A. Thompson

Political podcasts played a major role in promoting lies and misinformation about the 2020 U.S. presidential election, which later fueled the deadly protests on Jan. 6, according to a study by the Brookings Institution that analyzed nearly 1,500 episodes from the 20 most popular political shows on Apple's podcast app.

None of the predictions of widespread voter fraud came true. But some podcasters frequently advanced the false belief that the election was illegitimate, first as a trickle before the election and then as a tsunami in the weeks leading up to the violent attack at the Capitol on Jan. 6, 2021, according to new research.

The report is the first data-driven look at how political podcasts played a role in shaping theories of electoral fraud. You can read more here:

From the Daily team: Bringing voice acting to our journalism

This week, we did something new: We cast voice actors to bring to life an F.B.I. interview with Robert Reeder, a single father and FedEx driver from suburban Maryland who was facing misdemeanor charges for his involvement in the Capitol mob.

"We were immediately interested in Reeder's story and his version of events, and we knew we wanted our listeners to hear it," Asthaa Chaturvedi, a producer, said after reading a condensed version of the interview. But there was one problem: We had no audio.

The F.B.I. had not released the tape of the original interview, so Austin Mitchell, a Daily producer who has previously worked as an actor, called a casting director he knew. Our team also tapped Michael Paulson, The Times's theater reporter, for help finding the right voice actors to bring the interview to life.

"We still weren't entirely sure the re-enactment would hold up on its own," Austin said.

But once our team heard it, we knew we had a show. "This was an experiment in many ways," Austin said. "But the actors were so good. We wanted to do something that broke form."

On The Daily this week

Monday: The Omicron variant of the coronavirus appears to be milder than previous variants, but it's still dangerous.

Tuesday: How prenatal screenings for chromosomal abnormalities in fetuses promised "peace of mind" but instead caused anguish and confusion.

Thursday: A conversation with Rep. Liz Cheney about the riot and the state, and future, of the Republican Party.

Friday: Could America's electoral system sustain another attack? We explore the state of the nation's democracy.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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