2022年2月2日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Chihuly sculptures in the desert, Nili Lotan's beauty tricks — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

Nili Lotan's Beauty Regimen

Left: the fashion designer Nili Lotan. Right, clockwise from top left: Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleansing Cloths, $9, target.com. MAC Cosmetics Prep + Prime Essential Oils Grapefruit & Chamomile, $28, maccosmetics.com. Shiseido Synchro Skin Radiant Lifting Foundation, $47, shiseido.com. ColoreScienceTotal Eye Firm & Repair Cream, $95, colorescience.com. Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Oil, $68, drunkelephant.com. Tom Ford Mandarino Di Amalfi Eau de Parfum, $270/ 50ml, saksfifthavenue.com. Kai Body Butter, $52, kaifragrance.com. Shiseido MicroLiner Ink, $22, shiseido.com.Left: Dudi Hasson. Right: courtesy of the brands

Interview by Caitlin Kelly

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My hair is very curly, and I wish I could find someone in New York to deal with it but I usually end up letting it grow and then treating it when I go to Tel Aviv. I think I've bought 25 different products to get the best curl but I haven't found one that I love yet. On my face in the mornings I use Cetaphil's Gentle Skin Cleansing Cloths and then Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Treatment from ColoreScience. And in the evenings I also use the latter brand's Total Eye Firm & Repair Cream; I have a tendency to get dark circles under my eyes and this cream has been life changing. Most days, I like to apply a little of Tom Ford's Mandarino Di Amalfi perfume to the back of my ears and wrists. I hardly use makeup, but if I do need concealer I like MAC's Prep + Prime Essential Oils mixed with Shiseido's Synchro Skin Radiant Lifting Foundation tapped under my eyes, and if I go out at night I'll put on ColoreScience's Lip Shine SPF 35. I also like clear brow gel, mascara and Shiseido's MicroLiner Ink eyeliner. And then every week I have my nails done at home with clear polish by Kayo Higuchi, whom I met when she would do manicures on set for my brand's shoots. She is so caring and the treatment is so luxurious; she introduced me to using a combination of Kai Body Butter with Virgin Marula Oil from Drunk Elephant to moisturize my body. I always interview the makeup artists and hair stylists on set — it's my favorite thing to do.

BUY THIS

Vibrant Home Textiles

From left: Kit Kemp Collection for Annie Selke hand-embroidered cotton quilt and shams, cotton coverlet, linen decorative pillows and handmade wool rug. A hand-woven rug in blue from the collection.The Annie Selke Companies

By Tilly Macalister-Smith

T Contributor

Kit Kemp, the founder and creative director of both the Firmdale Hotels group, which includes the Covent Garden Hotel in London and the Crosby Street Hotel in New York, and her own eponymous interior design studio, has teamed up with retail heavyweight Annie Selke on a colorful collaboration of domestic pieces based on their favorite destinations: New York, London and Barbados. The collection features more than 50 indoor-outdoor rugs hand-woven by expert artisans in India and made from polyester fibers derived from recycled water bottles, as well as bedding in Kemp's signature cheerful rickrack, reversible coverlets in jolly stripes and florals and upholstered ottomans to place at the end of your bed. "A room has to satisfy all the senses," says Kemp. "We always say, 'Think of the five C's: color, comfort, craft, character and curation." The Kit Kemp Collection for Annie Selke launches on March 7 at annieselke.com.

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SEE THIS

Glass Growing in the Desert

Dale Chihuly's "Sol del Citrón" (2014).© 2021 Chihuly Studio. All rights reserved. Photo by Nathaniel Willson

By Rima Suqi

T Contributor

The glass artist Dale Chihuly has said that his intention is "always to create unexpected experiences" and, with "Chihuly in the Desert," an exhibition with installations in two iconic Sonoran Desert locations — the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix, Ariz., and Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright's home and school in Scottsdale — he's done just that. The latter location is particularly noteworthy because Chihuly, who grew up in Tacoma, Wash., and now lives in Seattle, has cited Frank Lloyd Wright's work as an important influence on his own. Among the six three-dimensional glass pieces at Taliesin West are "Red Reeds & Niijima Floats" (2021), which largely consists of dozens of slender fiery red pieces that rise from the surface of a pond on the grounds, and from the adjacent patch of lawn, and "Alabaster and Amber Spire Towers" (2018), a grouping of spiky, cactus-like forms that seem to have sprung up organically. Over at the Desert Botanical Garden, you'll find lavender "reeds" interspersed with actual cactuses, as well as free-standing sculptures of intricately coiled glass tubes that are thought to be the artist's most challenging works to date. Tickets are available for day and night viewings through June 19, chihulyinthedesert.org.

COVET THIS

A Jewelry Designer's First Handbags

From left: Alexis Bittar's Twisted Gold Angular clutch, $645. The In My Dreams purse, $395.Courtesy of the brand

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The New York-based jewelry designer Alexis Bittar, who made his name with artistic costume jewelry in the '90s and early 2000s before selling his eponymous brand in 2015, made a comeback last September when he reacquired his business. Since then, he's shifted the company's focus away from wholesale and toward direct-to-consumer sales, opening six experiential stores in New York and San Francisco designed by the set designer Scott Pask. This month, Bittar will introduce handbags for the first time. "Expanding into that world is something I've wanted to do for a while," he says. "The complementary relationship between jewelry and bags seems like such an obvious one to me." The collection will include seven styles that are all made of leather and include a clutch with an angular trapezoid flap inspired by the futuristic style of the '80s and '90s and a roomy everyday tote. Each design will feature whimsical hardware that evokes Bittar's beloved jewelry — a sculptural gold twisted scroll, for example, or a surrealist hand-shaped charm. The collection launches Feb. 15 and will be available at Saks, Alexis Bittar stores and alexisbittar.com. From $245.

VISIT THIS

A New Spot to Eat, Sleep and Shop in Marrakesh

From left: A ceramic jug by Serghini for Moro and a bronze beetle.Courtesy of Moro Marrakech

By Gisela Williams

T Contributing Editor

When Mohcyn Bousfiha, an interior architect from Marrakesh, and Mouad Mohsine, an engineer and entrepreneur from Casablanca, bought a small farm near the Moroccan beach town of Essaouira about six years ago, the partners gained a women's cooperative producing argon and prickly pear oils as a neighbor. And so they decided to launch a skin-and-hair-care line that is made with those ingredients and hews to traditional recipes, and named it The Moroccans as a tribute to the women. "We want to put the skills of the people of this country front and center," says Bousfiha. In 2017, he and Mohsine opened a beauty shop next to Marrakesh's Le Jardin Majorelle that evolved into a full-fledged concept store. And, in 2019, they took over a former hotel around the corner from there and transformed it into a multipurpose space that includes a second store — one with a 22-foot-high ceiling made of smar, or reed — a cafe with a garden terrace, a yoga studio, a weaving atelier, an embroidery studio and six overnight guest suites. In all of the spaces, the partners have privileged work by local makers, whether with the feminine dresses by the Marrakesh label Tshamir on offer in the store or the Serghini ceramic tableware used in the cafe. In the suite bathrooms, you'll find their own body products. Rooms from about $140, moromarrakech.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Couture Spring 2022: All in the Details

Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Haute couture has long allowed designers to indulge their most extravagant and exacting ideas, and this season was no exception. On T's Instagram Stories, we share what went into making some of couture week's standout looks, from a Schiaparelli ensemble that features approximately 17,000 sequins and 11,000 bugle beads to a diaphanous Dior top and skirt that took a team of six 500 hours to create. See more on T's Instagram.

Correction: A previous edition of the newsletter, on Jan. 19, misspelled the surname of a Brooklyn-based designer; he is Aaron Poritz, not Portiz.

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2022年1月28日 星期五

The Daily: The Right to Die

Dying with dignity raises tricky ethical questions.

The big idea: Who has the right to die?

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

Lynsey Addario for The New York Times

Our species is conditioned for survival — and our societies are organized to govern how we live and to facilitate how we can all live well together.

Our medical system, our vaccines and the global response to the pandemic are built around the same instinct — to protect and prolong individual lives. So it can feel jarring, and counterintuitive, to ask: What obligation does the government have in ensuring an individual's right to die?

Around the world, people facing a loss of autonomy, dignity and quality of life have the opportunity to set the date of their own deaths through voluntary euthanasia or assisted suicide. But this choice is only legally available in a few countries, including Belgium, Luxembourg, Canada and Colombia.

Additionally, only a handful of American states allow doctors to help patients who meet well-defined criteria and are on the threshold of dying choose when and how to end their lives. The laws are modeled after the first Death With Dignity Act, passed in Oregon in 1997.

Catholic organizations, anti-abortion advocates and some disability groups continue to oppose aid in dying. The California Catholic Conference, the church's public policy organization, for example, argued in June that liberalizing the state's law "puts patients at risk of abuse and the early and unwillful termination of life."

But polls regularly show broad public support for euthanasia. In 2020, Gallup found that 74 percent of respondents agreed that doctors should be allowed to end patients' lives "by some painless means" if they and their families request it.

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This week, we told the story of Marieke Vervoort, a Paralympic medalist from Belgium who chose when and how she would die. In doing so, we hoped to reveal the personal implications of a highly personal debate. Below, we share a note from Lynsey Addario, the photographer who spent almost three years reporting on Vervoort.

I have been a conflict and humanitarian photographer for 20 years, which means I have met people at their most vulnerable moments. Somehow I have to photograph them in ways that are compelling to viewers, but sensitive to the subjects.

The moments I capture exist forever as photographs, and the publication of this trauma has an effect on the subjects and on their loved ones and their feelings about me, the photographer. I don't often spend more than a few hours, days or weeks with someone I am shooting, and I rarely get the opportunity to see the person again once the assignment is complete.

But with Marieke, an initial three-day assignment turned into a three-year friendship, one in which I continuously struggled with my role as "an objective observer," especially as I grew to love and admire a friend who was choosing to die according to her own timeline.

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Marieke had this unique ability to love the people in her life as passionately as she pined for her death whenever her pain seemed to take over her life. She believed that the public needed to see and feel her pain in order to understand the importance of one's right to euthanasia — to choose exactly when and how she would end her life. Marieke was uniquely articulate and honest about the complexities of how and why she believed in her right to die on her own terms, and she wanted me to tell that story. In the process, she asked and allowed me to photograph moments that made her loved ones uncomfortable.

I will always be conflicted about whether I should have deferred to her wishes or her parents' wishes in her final moments and in her death. I got to know her parents over the years, and as a mother of two children, I couldn't fathom how they had the strength, generosity and courage to let their daughter go.

What I will remember about Marieke are the details I couldn't capture with images alone. So much about Marieke was in her laughter and her tears, her jokes and her pain — things that are difficult to convey in a still image. A lot of our time together was spent joking around, until she would disappear into fits of pain so powerful she had seizures, and she would fall into unconsciousness for hours — sometimes days.

I wanted to share our audio interviews and voice messages to tell a more complete, more nuanced version of Marieke's journey in a way still photographs simply cannot.

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This podcast is unusual in a number of ways — it aired more than two years after her death, and unlike most Times stories, it isn't pegged to a specific news event. But I believe Marieke's unflinching honesty offers incredible insight into the process of euthanasia — something she trusted me to convey. She wanted this to be published and I wanted to do right by her wishes. I also hoped it would provide insight into how photojournalists work, what we have to do in order to properly convey the intimate human stories we have the privilege to witness.

The Trojan Horse Affair

We have a new show coming out. It's about a mysterious letter, detailing a supposed Islamist plot to take over schools, that shocked Britain in 2014. The scandal resulted in new national policies, multiple investigations, banned educators and revamped schools. But despite all of the chaos the letter caused, it remained strangely unclear who wrote it.

When Brian Reed, of the hit podcast "S-Town," and Hamza Syed, a doctor-turned-reporter from Birmingham, England, tried to uncover the author's identity, the investigation became bigger than they ever imagined. From Serial Productions and The New York Times comes The Trojan Horse Affair, a mystery told in eight parts. You can listen to the trailer now and the entire show will be out next Thursday, Feb. 3.

On The Daily this week

Monday: How a photojournalist documented Marieke Vervoort's death by euthanasia.

Tuesday: Boris Johnson is tangled in a scandal over lockdown parties. Could this be the end of his premiership?

Wednesday: What a poll of Americans revealed about how ready the nation is to discuss living with the virus.

Thursday: How might President Biden choose a successor for Justice Stephen Breyer?

Friday: Despite record beef prices, ranchers aren't cashing in — the result of decades of economic transformation in the U.S.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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