2022年3月4日 星期五

The Daily: Ukraine’s Call to Arms

Why this isn't normal.

It was another full week of Ukraine coverage on The Daily. We contextualize the call to arms in Ukraine below — and share some stories about the war you might have missed.

We'd love to know: How are you feeling during this time? And are there any questions we can answer that you still have? Tell us here.

The big idea: The call to arms

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we look more closely at how the world is arming Ukraine — and what it means for the government to militarize its citizens.

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Author Headshot

By Lauren Jackson

Associate Audience Editor, Audio

Ukrainian volunteers on Saturday prepared for deployment around Kyiv, the capital, to fight Russian troops invading the city.

Grandmothers are making Molotov cocktails. Foreign fighters are traveling to Ukraine with the vocal support of a British cabinet minister. Western states are shelling out hundreds of millions of dollars on crates of guns, sending "weapons to anyone" in Ukraine.

To be clear — this isn't normal, even though Americans appear to be giving the thumbs up to Ukrainian mass armament.

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Since after the Second World War, institutions like the United Nations and the European Union have tried to promote peace. Now, the E.U. is sending lethal military weapons to people on its own continent, mobilizing civilians to fight against a global superpower. Is there any precedent for this? And how could this test organizations like the United Nations in the long term?

What weapons are being sent?

About 20 countries are funneling arms into Ukraine. And most are members of NATO or the European Union.

"The Dutch are sending rocket launchers for air defense," Steven Erlanger, the chief diplomatic correspondent for The New York Times, reports. "The Estonians are sending Javelin antitank missiles. The Poles and the Latvians are sending Stinger surface-to-air missiles. The Czechs are sending machine guns, sniper rifles, pistols and ammunition."

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NATO is also fortifying defenses and sending as many as 22,000 more troops to its member countries on the border with Russia, a warning meant to deter Russia from further aggression. But this could also be seen as a provocation — and risks possible retaliation from President Vladimir V. Putin.

With sanctions crippling the Russian economy and the West adopting an aggressive stance on their border, President Biden's top aides suspect that Mr. Putin's reaction will be to double down and lash out — and perhaps expand the war. "World wars have started over smaller conflicts," Mr. Erlanger said.

What is the precedent for this call to arms?

In a matter of days, Kyiv went from a busy, cosmopolitan European capital to a war zone — with many citizens abandoning their day jobs and taking up the arms being shipped in en masse. Now, the newly armed civilians and members of various paramilitary groups are fighting under the loose command of the military in an organization called the Territorial Defense Forces.

"The national call to arms and the mobilization of ordinary citizens to repel the Russian invader does not have any obvious parallels in recent global conflicts," Mats Berdal, a professor of conflict and security studies at King's College London, said.

Richard Kaplan, an international relations professor at Oxford University, pointed to the government of the former Yugoslavia producing weapons to arm the Yugoslav People's Army in the 1990s as one precedent.

Still, Western governments did not openly send arms en masse to Yugoslavia, as they are doing in Ukraine. At the time, the U.N. issued an arms embargo (though the U.S. looked away as arms were smuggled into the region, many channeled through Islamist groups).

What could this mean for institutions like the United Nations?

The United Nations has weathered and managed the diplomatic relations of many wars. Israel-Palestine, Vietnam, Bosnia, Iraq, Afghanistan and Syria, to name a few. There have been tense moments on the Security Council before.

What is different about this moment is how publicly brazen, and false, Russia's justifications for invasion are, which has invited widespread condemnation. For example, about 100 diplomats, many from Western countries, walked out of a speech by Russia's foreign minister at the United Nations in protest on Tuesday.

One of the cornerstones of our current world order, "if not the cornerstone of it, is the prohibition of the use of force and the idea that you can only use force in certain limited circumstances," Dapo Akande, a law professor at Oxford University, said. "That's exactly what is being challenged at this point in time. I think it's fair to say that this is a big challenge to that order."

It's too soon to say how the global balance of power could be reshaped by this moment. But Mr. Akande said this moment offered one glimmer of hope that international systems aren't under threat — but instead are proving their strength in this moment.

"What is interesting is actually everybody is expressing fidelity to international laws," Mr. Akande said. "Putin talked extensively about international law trying to provide justification for what he is doing. And then you listen to his critics and they say this is a flagrant violation of international law."

Instead of that rendering these laws and norms meaningless, Mr. Akande said, it reveals that both sides are turning to them as a source of legitimacy. Speaking of the international legal system, he said, "it's fragile, it's under huge challenge, but actually it still has some purchase."

"Everyone wants to cling to the high ground in regards to these norms," he continued. "Norms can coordinate behavior."

From the team: Russia's war on Ukraine

Compiled by Desiree Ibekwe

News Assistant, Audio

Mr. Putin meeting with his Security Council in Moscow on Monday.Alexey Nikolsky/Sputnik, via Reuters

The last week has been marked by anxiety, anger and fear as Russia continued the largest mobilization of forces in Europe since the Second World War. The Daily team has tried to cover the war in Ukraine the best it can — reporting from the ground in Kyiv, speaking to Ukrainians about how they are thinking and feeling about this moment, analyzing Russia's military strategy and exploring the efficacy of sanctions.

But there is a lot we didn't get to cover, and the narrated articles team has been tackling some of the angles we missed. Here are four articles to get you caught up:

Putin Seems to Sideline Advisers on Ukraine: Mr. Putin's decision to invade Ukraine suggests that he is confident in his resources — and his public image is that of a strong man, with the power to direct the Russian state as he pleases. However, no leader can govern alone, and the global reaction to his war has raised questions about just how much political support he will be able to draw during this conflict.

The Middle East Sympathizes with Ukrainian Refugees: The spectacle of a mass flight out of Ukraine was resonating deeply in the Middle East. But in a region that has been plagued by seemingly endless wars, the empathy was tinged with bitterness from some who saw European nations taking a more compassionate stance toward the Ukrainians than they had in recent years toward Arab and Muslim migrants

How to Talk to Kids About Ukraine: Kids may be feeling nervous about the Russian invasion. Thanks to social media and online outlets, young people have access to more news sources than ever. So, how should you answer your kids' questions about what's going on? If they don't ask, should you bring up the issue yourself? Here is what the experts suggest.

For Ukraine's Refugees, Europe Opens Doors That Were Shut to Others: Russia's invasion of Ukraine has pushed tens of thousands of people out of their homes and fleeing across borders to escape violence. But unlike the refugees who have flooded Europe in crisis over the past decade, countries that have for years resisted taking in refugees from wars in Syria, Iraq and Afghanistan are now opening their doors to Ukrainians.

On The Daily this week

Monday: Sabrina Tavernise speaks to residents in Kyiv, Ukraine's capital, as Russian forces try to advance on the city.

Tuesday: The government of Ukraine has enacted a law requiring men ages 18 to 60 to remain in the country. We speak to three of those men.

Wednesday: Will the European Union's history-making package of sanctions be enough to bring Russia's war on Ukraine to an end?

Thursday: We explore why victory in Ukraine has eluded President Vladimir V. Putin — and how he is now changing strategy.

Friday: On the ground in Texas, we explore the impact of redistricting on the upcoming midterm elections.

Join Sabrina Tavernise March 9 in a free virtual event as she speaks with David Leonhardt of The Morning newsletter for a behind-the-scenes look at what she is seeing on the ground in Ukraine. R.S.V.P. now.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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2022年3月2日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A starry-eyed sneaker collaboration, a monograph of nudes — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

Adir Abergel's Beauty Regimen

Left: the hair stylist Adir Abergel. Right, clockwise from top left: Augustinus Bader the Rich Cream, $280, augustinusbader.com. Chantecaille Rose de Mai Face Oil, $188, chantecaille.com. Dr. Barbara Sturm Enzyme Cleanser, $75, drsturm.com. Natureofthings Restorative Floral Bath, $150, neimanmarcus.com. Chanel Sublimage La Crème, $420, chanel.com. Natureofthings Fortifying Magnesium Soak, $36,natureofthings.com. Nécessaire the Body Wash in Sandalwood, $25, sephora.com. Virtue Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, $48, virtuelabs.com.Left: Abby Ross. Right: courtesy of the brands
Author Headshot

Interview by Caitie Kelly

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I use an SPF that Rooney Mara told me about years ago called Eryfotona Actinica. I traveled to Brazil in the summer and used it the whole time, so I know it works. In the morning, I wash my face with either Dr. Barbara Sturm's Enzyme Cleanser or MBR's Enzyme Cleansing Booster, which I follow with Chantecaille's Rose de Mai Face Oil and Augustinus Bader's the Rich Cream. When I travel or need something heavier, I use Chanel's Sublimage La Crème and Lucas' Papaw Ointment a ton: on my lips, even sometimes on my dog! It's my go-to salve. I'll use a tiny bit of Clé de Peau Concealer in Almond on my eyes with a beauty blender, along with Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Petal. It's so light. At the end of the day, I love taking a bath. It is my favorite ritual. I fill up the first third of the tub with boiling hot water, add in some Ancient Minerals Magnesium Bath Flakes, then warm water until the bath is full. A friend of mine started this company Natureofthings; I use its Fortifying Magnesium Soak and its Restorative Floral Bath. Last, I put in three drops of Women's Balance aromatherapy oil from Neal's Yard Remedies. It is a blend of geranium, rose and frankincense that I use on clients before events, too. My body products are from Nécessaire; I love their sandalwood scent. A lot of what I use on my hair I helped create with Virtue — products that I wanted after having tried a million different things in my work. I use the Virtue Purifying Shampoo because I have very fine hair, and the Restorative Treatment Mask. I'll let it sit while I'm in the bath. To finish, I always use a combination of Virtue Un-Frizz Cream and Healing Oil. Ninety-nine percent of the time, though, I have a hat on top of that.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

WEAR THIS

Extra-Sporty Fashion Sneakers

A look from the Loewe x On collaboration.Courtesy of Loewe

By Megan O'Sullivan

T Contributor

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Performance wear may seem like a departure for Loewe. After all, the Spanish house has specialized in leather goods for over 175 years now, and yet its latest collaboration — with the cult Swiss running brand On — was the Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson's idea. "I felt there was a precision in what they do that connects to the Loewe Puzzle bag," he says, referring to the iconic trapezoidal purse. "This idea of aerodynamics." (It probably didn't hurt that Anderson has been wearing On shoes, which are beloved for their patented cushioning system and lightweight feel, for years.) Launching next week, the collection consists of two sneaker styles, versions of On's Cloudrock and Cloudventure trail-running shoes, that are made with recycled materials and come in five colorways each — as well as clothes, from temperature-regulating T-shirts to a customizable three-layer parka. In addition to being adaptable and high-tech, of course, the pieces are also nice to look at. Some of the shoes and a unisex moisture-wicking anorak all feature a celestial print of light blue constellations set against a navy background that mimics sashiko — the traditional Japanese needlework style characterized by geometric patterns — and just might inspire night runs. From $275, loewe.com.

LOOK AT THIS

A Re-Examination of the Nude

From left: Joseph Maida's "Nude" (2015) and "Nude" (2017).Courtesy of the artist and Convoke

By Adriane Quinlan

T Contributor

It was in a Borders in Philadelphia in the mid-1990s that the New York-based photographer Joseph Maida first came across a monograph filled with female nudes shot by Lee Friedlander, a catalog of the artist's 1991 exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art. Friedlander had made art's oldest subject somehow alien — witnessed up close, expanses of skin became strange landscapes interrupted by the mundane mise-en-scènes of domestic spaces: lamps, coffee cups and mismatched bedspreads. Decades after he discovered them, "Friedlander's nudes continued to haunt me, thrill me, challenge me and disturb me," Maida writes in the introduction to "A Third Look," a new monograph of his own work. In its style and title, a reference to Friedlander's 2013 book "A Second Look," it's a paean to its source of inspiration — Maida even used a 35 mm camera with a wide-angle lens, as Friedlander did. But Maida deployed that tool to examine the male form, and to play with perceptions of gender. In one image, a manicured hand grips a hairy leg; in another, a penis disappears between thighs. As the artist and Maida's former student Zackary Drucker writes in the foreword, the viewer may have the "uncanny experience of double-taking, thinking, 'Is that a woman?' Clearly they are not … or are they?" Our urge to assign labels is as much the subject of these complex images as the nudes themselves. $65, convoke.nyc.

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BUY THIS

Blankets Handwoven From Fabric Scraps

Two one-of-a-kind double-sided Zero Waste Patchwork Quilts by Marrakshi Life. Left: in lavender, brick, merlot and blush. Right: in navy, royal blue, light blue, marine blue and ice.David Bechtel

By Sophie Bew

T Contributor

Above the Marrakesh atelier of the fashion line Marrakshi Life is a space that serves as both an archive of past collections and a storage area for off-cuts of fabric. "There are rows and shelves filled with the most wonderful colors, sorted by scheme," muses the brand's founder, the New York-born photographer Randall Bachner. "It's great if you ever need to walk into a world of color and begin dreaming." But the scraps provide more than inspiration: A principle of zero waste has guided the brand, which is known for hand-woven caftans and tunics that marry the look of the region's ubiquitous djellaba (a full-sleeved, often striped robe) with that of crisp men's wear-style shirting, since its inception in 2013. Now, Bachner has used the scraps to dip a toe into home items with a capsule collection of one-of-a-kind quilts and blankets. Like his fashion pieces, they mimic the sun-drenched hues of Marrakesh's medina — turmeric, terra-cotta and sandy beige — and incorporate a mix of blues. On one side of each blanket is a uniquely graphic composition, with chevrons and triangles of stripes in eye-catching collision; on the other, twill stripes were left uninterrupted in order, Bachner explains, to "reveal their full glory." From $1,200, marrakshilife.com.

SMELL THIS

A New Fragrance from Carine Roitfeld

Left: Carine Roitfeld. Right: Carine Eau de Parfum.Left: Hedi Slimane. Right: courtesy of the brand

With her first line of fragrances, which came out in 2019, the renowned editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld told a tale of seven imaginary lovers and the cities in which they lived. For her new release, created in collaboration with the master perfumer Dominique Ropion, she ruminated on another romantic persona: her own. "The perfume is about my fictional character, but also different parts of myself: my teenage self, the career woman, me as a mother and the current version, which is wiser and more fulfilled," Roitfeld explains. Carine, as the scent is called, is heady and opulent, with notes of woody vetiver and cashmeran (a complex synthetic ingredient so named for its ability to impart something of the softness of cashmere) contrasted with those of sharp white florals and patchouli, which Roitfeld has loved since her youth. "Patchouli has this forbidden scent to it," she says. "It's a bit free-spirited, like me." Formulating such a personal concoction with Ropion required vulnerability — Roitfeld compares it to walking around naked — but she hopes wearers will make the end result their own, and feel even more like the main characters of their own stories once they've dabbed it on. $260, carineroitfeld.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

In Naples, a 19th-Century Palace Fit for a Duchess

The great room of Margherita Marzotto's family villa in Naples, Italy, features a grand piano made for the king of Naples and a copy of "L'Aurora," Guido Reni's 1614 fresco of the Sun Chariot guided by the Hours and Apollo.Allegra Martin

Villa Lucia was a gift from Ferdinand I, the king of the Two Sicilies, to his new wife, Lucia Migliaccio, the Duchess of Floridia, in 1817. "Their relationship was quite a scandal at the time, partly because they married only two months after the king's first wife died," says the artist and jewelry designer Margherita Marzotto. "And the villa was their love pavilion." After passing among several subsequent owners, the estate has been in Marzotto's family for almost a century and has cast a spell over her for as long as she can remember — not least since 2016, when she and her husband, Barthélémy d'Ollone, a French musician and gem hunter, began living in the house for part of each year. ​​Its great room, pictured here, features a grand piano and a copy of "L'Aurora," Guido Reni's 1614 fresco of the Sun Chariot guided by the Hours and Apollo. Read the full story at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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