2022年3月9日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A new retreat in Oaxaca, high-tech humidifiers — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

A Solar-Powered Escape in the Oaxacan Jungle

The brick-clad spa and suites at Terrestre, designed by the Mexican architect Alberto Kalach.Jaime Navarro

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There are two ways to relax at a nice hotel: by being lavishly cared for or by retreating deeper into yourself — reading old novels, staring out at a sedate landscape, sitting in a steam room for longer than is probably advisable. All of this is available at Terrestre, a new solar-powered retreat by Mexico's Grupo Habita that's set on a quiet cactus-heavy stretch — where the jungle meets the beach — just west of Puerto Escondido, the Oaxacan surfer's enclave that has become a chic getaway among city dwellers. Designed by the rustically minded, minimalist Mexican architect Alberto Kalach and his firm, Taller de Arquitectura X (TAX), the property is hardly more than 14 connected villas in concrete, brick and wood that rise from the arid "Dune"-esque terrain like some kind of Brutalist encampment; the suites — each of which includes a private soaking pool, a hammock and walls and ceilings that can be left open to the sun and stars — encourage both outdoor exploration and calm introspection. If and when you feel like talking to others, you can head to the Mediterranean-inflected al fresco restaurant, any of the various plunge pools scattered throughout the hotel's sandy pathways or down the dirt road to Casa Wabi, an arts residency created by Bosco Sodi and designed by the Japanese legend Tadao Ando, among others, the architecture of which is unforgettable. Rooms from $350, terrestrehotel.com.

SEE THIS

Still Lifes and Landscapes That Capture Sunny Los Angeles

From left: Hilary Pecis's "Studio Table" (2021) and "Swap Meet" (2021).Courtesy of the artist and Rachel Uffner Gallery, New York; photos: Ed Mumford

By Adriane Quinlan

T Contributor

In 2012, after a stint making digital collages, Hilary Pecis found herself at home with a newborn, and started sketching still lifes of her own house. Soon after, she turned to painting them in acrylic, and expanded her view to include the cluttered California interiors of friends — tables set with stacks of art books, say, or corners of rooms stuffed with souvenirs. Like Becky Suss or Jonas Wood, she seems interested in building a record of how her generation lives, with its many markers of identity and taste, from Fiji water bottles to Dusen Dusen pillows and Ottolenghi cookbooks. These objects are presented with a slight wink, perhaps, but ultimately Pecis isn't judgmental about them. "I don't paint things I don't like," she says. Instead, her canvases are infused with joy. It's no surprise, then, that her new show at Rachel Uffner Gallery in New York is titled "Warmly," and there's a suggestion that what some call clutter goes a long way to making a cold world feel more hospitable. In addition to scenes of cozy interiors, the show includes paintings of the nature preserves she's spent the past few years jogging through, as well as one that's almost a blend of both — a record of outdoor dining that depicts the remains of a picnic set between potted cactuses. If you can't make it to the show, advance copies of Pecis's first monograph, which comes out May 3, are available through the gallery. "Warmly" is on view from Mar. 12 through May 7 at Rachel Uffner Gallery, racheluffnergallery.com.

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COVET THIS

Sculptural and Sustainable Metal Objects for the Home

Left: Tim Teven's Pressure vase atop Paul Coenen's Tension side table. Right: ashtrays by Christoph Meier, Ute Müller, Robert Schwarz and Lukas Stopczynski.David Lê for Maiden Name

By Samuel Rutter

T Contributor

Founded in New York City in 2019 by Alix Freireich and David Lê, Maiden Name is an online concept store with an in-house women's wear line. Each season, then, the pair curate a collection of stylish, sustainably minded objects from around the world. "So much in design right now is just mindless consumerism using really expensive materials," says Lê. By contrast, he and Freireich recently released a series of zero-waste metal objects for the home. There's an end table and a bowl, both largely consisting of a single curved, laser-cut piece of steel supported by its own tension, by the artist Paul Coenen, who is based in Eindhoven, the Netherlands, and into these curved pieces he's inserted smaller, flat sheets resembling fins. Tim Teven, who shares a studio with Coenen, has created a vase made of chrome with a molten, folded base, along with a gracefully curved metal table with indentations that make its surface look quilted. And then there are gleaming and hefty ashtrays made from cans of beer that were drunk and melted down by Christoph Meier, Ute Müller, Robert Schwarz and Lucas Stopczynski, a collective of European artists who displayed the ashtrays inside a vending machine in "Relax," a recent exhibition at the MAK Museum of Applied Arts in Vienna. But wouldn't it be nice to put one to use in your home, where, unlike the museum, you can actually smoke? From $200, maiden-name.com.

BUY THIS

High-Tech Humidifiers

From Left: Canopy Humidifier, $150, sephora.com. Hey Dewy Wireless Facial Humidifier, $60, heydewy.com. Dyson Purifier Humidify + Cool Formaldehyde, $900, dyson.com.Courtesy of the brands

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The little machine puffing away in the corner of the room doesn't just save your throat and sinuses. "A humidifier can change your entire skin-care game," says Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of New York's Idriss Dermatology. "Since heaters suck the humidity out of the air, using a humidifier will redeliver hydration and change the way your skin responds to the environment." Cindy Kang, the co-founder of the Los Angeles-based company Hey Dewy, was working on marketing Barbie dolls at Mattel and looking for an alternative to her huge, clunky humidifier when she gave up and decided to develop her own. The resulting facial humidifier, as she calls it, which has since been made wireless, provides eight hours of mist from a full tank of 12.4 ounces of water and is petite enough to sit unobtrusively on a shelf or desk or move around with you throughout the day. What's more, while older humidifier models were difficult to clean and thus breeding grounds for mold, some newer ones can detect remaining water and use internal UV LED lights to kill any growth. The dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman recommends the dishwasher-safe Canopy humidifier, which does just that. And since we're all more familiar with air filter terminology than we once were, it's worth mentioning that Dyson's Purifier Humidify + Cool machine also has a medical-grade H13 HEPA filter, as well as interwoven silver strands that inhibit bacteria growth inside the evaporator.

VISIT THIS

A New Multipurpose Art Space in TriBeCa

Left: at Trnk NYC's new TriBeCa space, a segment chaise from Trnk Collection, a stool by Sisan Lee, ceramics from Disciplina Studio and a photograph, "Daichi," by Kin. Right: decorative objects from a range of Trnk collaborators, including AnnaLeaClelia Tunesi, Canoa Lab, Pretziada, Kansai Noguchi, Light + Ladder and Disciplina Studio.Roman Meza

By John Wogan

T Contributor

When he created the design studio and curatorial platform Trnk NYC in 2013, Tariq Dixon's intent was to push the boundaries of the typical showroom by producing exhibitions and collaborations that interrogated cultural bias within the art and design worlds. After the pandemic hit, he closed Trnk's SoHo showroom but kept the enterprise going digitally and delved into projects touching on social justice and identity. In November 2020, for instance, he collaborated with the London-based designer Evan Jerry of Studio Anansi on a collection of furniture inspired by the entangled relationship between African aesthetics and Western Modernism. Now, Dixon is opening a new brick-and-mortar space on the ground floor of a 1920s building in TriBeCa. It's divided into five separate chambers, and he hopes visitors will "meander and sit with each of the vignettes we've created." One area will function more like a traditional white box gallery and show a rotation of work by different artists — Studio Anansi is up first — while another is set up like a bedroom appointed with a low-slung bed and a velvet sofa from Trnk's house line. Elsewhere, a stairway leading to nowhere showcases ceramics by artists including AnnaLeaClelia Tunesi and Disciplina Studio. Dixon hopes, too, that the space will function as an incubator of talent and ideas. "As we discover new artists, make new friends and explore more conversations," he says, "it'll be great to have a home where all of our many seemingly disparate ideas become a cohesive vision." trnk-nyc.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

A Stirring Show From Balenciaga

Courtesy of Balenciaga

Balenciaga's artistic director, Demna, and his family fled the war in Georgia when he was a child. At the brand's latest show, the set was a vast circular arena with snow on the ground; snow blew in the models' faces as they struggled along. Some models wore only underwear and a blanket wrapped around their shoulders; others carried leather sacks that resembled plastic garbage bags. In his show notes, Demna writes, "The war in Ukraine has triggered the pain of a past trauma I have carried in me since 1993, when the same thing happened in my home country and I became a forever refugee. Forever, because that's something that stays in you. The fear, the desperation, the realization that no one wants you." Find more fashion coverage at tmagazine.com and follow us on Instagram.

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2022年3月4日 星期五

The Daily: Ukraine’s Call to Arms

Why this isn't normal.

It was another full week of Ukraine coverage on The Daily. We contextualize the call to arms in Ukraine below — and share some stories about the war you might have missed.

We'd love to know: How are you feeling during this time? And are there any questions we can answer that you still have? Tell us here.

The big idea: The call to arms

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we look more closely at how the world is arming Ukraine — and what it means for the government to militarize its citizens.

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Author Headshot

By Lauren Jackson

Associate Audience Editor, Audio

Ukrainian volunteers on Saturday prepared for deployment around Kyiv, the capital, to fight Russian troops invading the city.

Grandmothers are making Molotov cocktails. Foreign fighters are traveling to Ukraine with the vocal support of a British cabinet minister. Western states are shelling out hundreds of millions of dollars on crates of guns, sending "weapons to anyone" in Ukraine.

To be clear — this isn't normal, even though Americans appear to be giving the thumbs up to Ukrainian mass armament.

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Since after the Second World War, institutions like the United Nations and the European Union have tried to promote peace. Now, the E.U. is sending lethal military weapons to people on its own continent, mobilizing civilians to fight against a global superpower. Is there any precedent for this? And how could this test organizations like the United Nations in the long term?

What weapons are being sent?

About 20 countries are funneling arms into Ukraine. And most are members of NATO or the European Union.

"The Dutch are sending rocket launchers for air defense," Steven Erlanger, the chief diplomatic correspondent for The New York Times, reports. "The Estonians are sending Javelin antitank missiles. The Poles and the Latvians are sending Stinger surface-to-air missiles. The Czechs are sending machine guns, sniper rifles, pistols and ammunition."

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NATO is also fortifying defenses and sending as many as 22,000 more troops to its member countries on the border with Russia, a warning meant to deter Russia from further aggression. But this could also be seen as a provocation — and risks possible retaliation from President Vladimir V. Putin.

With sanctions crippling the Russian economy and the West adopting an aggressive stance on their border, President Biden's top aides suspect that Mr. Putin's reaction will be to double down and lash out — and perhaps expand the war. "World wars have started over smaller conflicts," Mr. Erlanger said.

What is the precedent for this call to arms?

In a matter of days, Kyiv went from a busy, cosmopolitan European capital to a war zone — with many citizens abandoning their day jobs and taking up the arms being shipped in en masse. Now, the newly armed civilians and members of various paramilitary groups are fighting under the loose command of the military in an organization called the Territorial Defense Forces.

"The national call to arms and the mobilization of ordinary citizens to repel the Russian invader does not have any obvious parallels in recent global conflicts," Mats Berdal, a professor of conflict and security studies at King's College London, said.

Richard Kaplan, an international relations professor at Oxford University, pointed to the government of the former Yugoslavia producing weapons to arm the Yugoslav People's Army in the 1990s as one precedent.

Still, Western governments did not openly send arms en masse to Yugoslavia, as they are doing in Ukraine. At the time, the U.N. issued an arms embargo (though the U.S. looked away as arms were smuggled into the region, many channeled through Islamist groups).

What could this mean for institutions like the United Nations?

The United Nations has weathered and managed the diplomatic relations of many wars. Israel-Palestine, Vietnam, Bosnia, Iraq, Afghanistan and Syria, to name a few. There have been tense moments on the Security Council before.

What is different about this moment is how publicly brazen, and false, Russia's justifications for invasion are, which has invited widespread condemnation. For example, about 100 diplomats, many from Western countries, walked out of a speech by Russia's foreign minister at the United Nations in protest on Tuesday.

One of the cornerstones of our current world order, "if not the cornerstone of it, is the prohibition of the use of force and the idea that you can only use force in certain limited circumstances," Dapo Akande, a law professor at Oxford University, said. "That's exactly what is being challenged at this point in time. I think it's fair to say that this is a big challenge to that order."

It's too soon to say how the global balance of power could be reshaped by this moment. But Mr. Akande said this moment offered one glimmer of hope that international systems aren't under threat — but instead are proving their strength in this moment.

"What is interesting is actually everybody is expressing fidelity to international laws," Mr. Akande said. "Putin talked extensively about international law trying to provide justification for what he is doing. And then you listen to his critics and they say this is a flagrant violation of international law."

Instead of that rendering these laws and norms meaningless, Mr. Akande said, it reveals that both sides are turning to them as a source of legitimacy. Speaking of the international legal system, he said, "it's fragile, it's under huge challenge, but actually it still has some purchase."

"Everyone wants to cling to the high ground in regards to these norms," he continued. "Norms can coordinate behavior."

From the team: Russia's war on Ukraine

Compiled by Desiree Ibekwe

News Assistant, Audio

Mr. Putin meeting with his Security Council in Moscow on Monday.Alexey Nikolsky/Sputnik, via Reuters

The last week has been marked by anxiety, anger and fear as Russia continued the largest mobilization of forces in Europe since the Second World War. The Daily team has tried to cover the war in Ukraine the best it can — reporting from the ground in Kyiv, speaking to Ukrainians about how they are thinking and feeling about this moment, analyzing Russia's military strategy and exploring the efficacy of sanctions.

But there is a lot we didn't get to cover, and the narrated articles team has been tackling some of the angles we missed. Here are four articles to get you caught up:

Putin Seems to Sideline Advisers on Ukraine: Mr. Putin's decision to invade Ukraine suggests that he is confident in his resources — and his public image is that of a strong man, with the power to direct the Russian state as he pleases. However, no leader can govern alone, and the global reaction to his war has raised questions about just how much political support he will be able to draw during this conflict.

The Middle East Sympathizes with Ukrainian Refugees: The spectacle of a mass flight out of Ukraine was resonating deeply in the Middle East. But in a region that has been plagued by seemingly endless wars, the empathy was tinged with bitterness from some who saw European nations taking a more compassionate stance toward the Ukrainians than they had in recent years toward Arab and Muslim migrants

How to Talk to Kids About Ukraine: Kids may be feeling nervous about the Russian invasion. Thanks to social media and online outlets, young people have access to more news sources than ever. So, how should you answer your kids' questions about what's going on? If they don't ask, should you bring up the issue yourself? Here is what the experts suggest.

For Ukraine's Refugees, Europe Opens Doors That Were Shut to Others: Russia's invasion of Ukraine has pushed tens of thousands of people out of their homes and fleeing across borders to escape violence. But unlike the refugees who have flooded Europe in crisis over the past decade, countries that have for years resisted taking in refugees from wars in Syria, Iraq and Afghanistan are now opening their doors to Ukrainians.

On The Daily this week

Monday: Sabrina Tavernise speaks to residents in Kyiv, Ukraine's capital, as Russian forces try to advance on the city.

Tuesday: The government of Ukraine has enacted a law requiring men ages 18 to 60 to remain in the country. We speak to three of those men.

Wednesday: Will the European Union's history-making package of sanctions be enough to bring Russia's war on Ukraine to an end?

Thursday: We explore why victory in Ukraine has eluded President Vladimir V. Putin — and how he is now changing strategy.

Friday: On the ground in Texas, we explore the impact of redistricting on the upcoming midterm elections.

Join Sabrina Tavernise March 9 in a free virtual event as she speaks with David Leonhardt of The Morning newsletter for a behind-the-scenes look at what she is seeing on the ground in Ukraine. R.S.V.P. now.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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