2022年4月8日 星期五

The Daily: How Is War Affecting Your Grocery Bill?

Ukraine and the global supply chain.

The big idea: How is war affecting the global supply chain?

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we share additional reporting from Jack Nicas, Brazil bureau chief for The New York Times, on some of the ideas in Tuesday's show.

The Port of Los Angeles, one of the busiest ports in the United States, where containers have piled up uncollected.Erin Schaff/The New York Times

Everything was already a mess before the war started.

In the last few years, the compounding shocks of the coronavirus and the climate crisis dismantled the global supply chain. With ships stuck at sea, warehouses overflowing and trucks without drivers, Americans who had grown used to getting their goods on-demand were suddenly required to practice a maddening, archaic virtue: patience.

Everyone hoped it would be over soon — that Target shelves would be restocked, timely Amazon Prime deliveries would resume and groceries would stop being so expensive. Then came the bad news: The war in Ukraine has added another strain to the highly intricate and interconnected global supply chain. And as you heard on Tuesday, there is no end in sight.

What is happening now

Russia's invasion of Ukraine and global sanctions against Moscow have rippled through logistics and supply chains, creating bottlenecks in the transport of goods and commodities and threatening fresh economic pain for countries and businesses near the conflict zone.

Transport companies, maritime insurance executives and industry analysts say the war, combined with uncertainty fueled by the sanctions, is causing backups of ships at some ports and could lead to longer delays in shipments, especially around Europe.

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And then there are food prices, which have climbed to their highest level in more than a decade largely because of the pandemic's supply chain mess, according to a recent United Nations report. A crucial portion of the world's wheat, corn and barley is trapped in Russia and Ukraine because of the war, while an even larger portion of the world's fertilizers is stuck in Russia and Belarus. The result is that global food and fertilizer prices are soaring. Since the invasion, wheat prices have increased by 21 percent, barley by 33 percent and some fertilizers by 40 percent.

The upheaval is compounded by major challenges that were already increasing prices and squeezing supplies, including the pandemic, shipping constraints, high energy costs and recent droughts, floods and fires.

Now economists, aid organizations and government officials are warning of the repercussions: an increase in world hunger.

What could we see in the future?

The looming disaster is laying bare the consequences of a major war in the modern era of globalization. Prices for food, fertilizer, oil, gas and even metals like aluminum, nickel and palladium are all rising fast — and experts expect worse as the effects cascade.

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"Ukraine has only compounded a catastrophe on top of a catastrophe," said David M. Beasley, the executive director of the World Food Program, the United Nations agency that feeds 125 million people a day. "There is no precedent even close to this since World War II."

Farms in Ukraine are about to miss critical planting and harvesting seasons. Fertilizer plants in Europe are significantly cutting production because of high energy prices. Farmers from Brazil to Texas are cutting back on fertilizer, threatening the size of the next harvests.

Around the world, the result will be even higher grocery bills. In February, U.S. grocery prices were already up 8.6 percent over the year before, the largest increase in 40 years, according to government data. Economists expect the war to further inflate those prices.

For those living on the brink of food insecurity, the latest surge in prices could push many over the edge. After remaining mostly flat for five years, hunger rose by about 18 percent during the pandemic to between 720 million and 811 million people. This month, the United Nations said that the war's impact on the global food market alone could cause an additional 7.6 million to 13.1 million people to go hungry.

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While virtually every country will face higher prices, some places could struggle to find enough food at all. Rising prices and hunger also present a potential new dimension to the world's view of the war. Could they further fuel anger at Russia and calls for intervention? Or would frustration be targeted at the Western sanctions that are helping to trap food and fertilizer?

The reality is, the "efficient," interconnected supply chain was always precarious. And it will continue to be subject to increasingly devastating shocks brought on by the climate crisis. Now, governments around the world are asking how to create resilience in the face of coming calamities. The answer, though, may require asking how to remake the system entirely.

The return of Still Processing

Malike Sidibe for The New York Times

We have some exciting news: Still Processing, our culture podcast, is coming back on April 14.

The show is going to sound a little different this season. Jenna Wortham, co-host of the podcast, is on book leave, so Wesley Morris is going to have solo hosting duties for most of the spring. He'll be joined by a stellar cast of guests, including Daphne Brooks to talk pop culture hierarchies, Hanif Abdurraqib to examine television theme songs (and that polarizing "skip intro" button) and Bill Simmons on what happens when athletes try to act.

Listen to the trailer to get a taste of this season — and to find out what Jenna has been up to (spoiler alert: black holes!). Look out for new episodes on Thursdays.

On The Daily this week

Monday: Behind a federal judge's ruling that Donald J. Trump most likely committed a crime in trying to stop the certification of the 2020 election.

Tuesday: How the war in Ukraine is creating a food crisis across the world.

Wednesday: Outrage is growing over the atrocities in Bucha, Ukraine. But holding perpetrators to account can be a complex task.

Friday: German leaders believed that more trade with Russia would help keep peace in the region. That theory was flawed.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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2022年4月6日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Beauty tips from Sharon Alexie, a pair of boutique hotels in Miami Beach — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

The Model and Artist Sharon Alexie's Beauty Regimen

Left: The model and artist Sharon Alexie. Products, clockwise from top left: Augustinus Bader the Cream Cleansing Gel, $69, augustinusbader.com; Dior Hydra Life Fresh Sorbet Crème, $75, dior.com; Olaplex Professional 4-in-1 Moisture Mask, olaplex.com to find salons; Rouge Dior Lipstick in 964 Ambitious Matte Finish, $39, dior.com; As I Am Coconut CoWash, $9, asiamnaturally.com; Louis Vuitton Attrape-Rêves Eau de Parfum, $280/100 ml, louisvuitton.com; Fenty Beauty Pro Filt'r Instant Retouch Setting Powder, $34, ulta.com.Left: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images. Right: courtesy of the brands
Author Headshot

Interview by Caitie Kelly

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My mother is Cameroonian, and she always wears a very vivid red lipstick — that's her signature. When I go out at night, I do a brownish contour on the lips with an elegant dark red in the middle. Rouge Dior Lipstick in 964 Ambitious Matte Finish is a shade I like. I also love Dior Forever Couture Luminizer; the way it melts into the skin looks so natural. I use Vaseline as a highlighter on my eyelids, a trick I picked up on set. To finish, Fenty Beauty Pro Filt'r Instant Retouch Setting Powder is the only powder that I feel works on me. I like Fenty's eye shadows, too. In the morning, I use the Cream Cleansing Gel by Augustinus Bader, followed by the Essence as a toner and Dior's Hydra Life Fresh Sorbet Crème. A really feminine perfume gets me ready for the day. I like the Attrape-Rêves fragrance from Louis Vuitton and Miss Dior Eau de Parfum. I'm very particular about how I get my hair done; either my mom does it or I do it myself. When I take out my braids, I'll use a creamy cleansing conditioner, like Coconut CoWash from As I Am. I'll use a mask, too, like the Olaplex 4-in-1 Moisture Mask, or Jamaican Black Castor Oil Moisturizing Masque, also from As I Am, depending on what issue I'm having with my hair. At the end of the day I take off any makeup with a liquid remover, like Bioderma Sensibio H20 Micellar Water, and then double cleanse, again using the Cream Cleansing Gel from Augustinus Bader. I use scented creams before going to bed: I gravitate toward anything that smells like honey or vanilla, or a traditional Cameroonian oil called Manyanga.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

VISIT THIS

Stylish Sister Hotels in Miami Beach

Left: a room at the boutique hotel the Esmé in Miami, with walls painted in Benjamin Moore's Rosetta, a Thibaut-clad stool and furniture custom designed by Jessica Schuster. Right: tile is the star at the roof bar, with Nemo on the floor, Clé Tile Zellige on the bar and Dex Industries Terrazzo on the counter. Uniqwa's Atang Atang pendant lights preside over the scene.Christian Harder

By Rima Suqi

T Contributor

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For her first-ever hotel project, the Manhattan-based interior designer Jessica Schuster took on a doozy, or rather, two of them: Over the last five years, she re-envisioned a pair of Miami Beach boutique hotels, the Esmé and Casa Matanza, both backed by the New York-based firm Infinity Hospitality and located across the street from each other on South Beach's Española Way promenade. The 145-room Esmé's interiors were meant to be "softer and sweeter," Schuster says, while at 42 rooms, Casa Matanza is "darker and moodier," but in both, Schuster employed a color palette of saturated citrus and jewel tones, and retained many architectural features from the hotels' original 1920s buildings, including arched doorways, pecky cypress ceilings and a fireplace uncovered during demolition. The result is a richly eclectic space that guests may not want to leave, and won't need to: Schuster connected Esmé's multiple roof decks with a series of small bridges, so visitors can saunter from the new pool to cabanas to the Spanish tapas restaurant and sangria bar, and the sibling properties will soon be connected via a subterranean passageway so that people may take discreet advantage of each property's amenities. "I was borrowing from yesterday, today and tomorrow to create this whimsical and fantastical experience," Schuster says. "It's very different for Miami." Rooms at Esmé or Casa Matanza from $300, esmehotel.com.

WEAR THIS

Sneakers in Spring Colors

Veja x Mansur Gavriel Campo sneakers in (from left) Celeste, Crema, Rosa and Sunshine.Chaumont-Zaerpour

Though Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel, the founders of the New York-based accessories line Mansur Gavriel, are not lacking for options when it comes to choosing their own footwear, the two like to "wear sneakers nearly every day," they said in an email to me. They're big fans of Veja, the French brand founded in 2004 by Sébastien Kopp and François-Ghislain Morillion — recognizable for the letter "V" emblazoned on the shoe's side — and respected for its efforts in sustainability, including sourcing wild rubber and organic cotton from Brazil, as well as working with chrome-free leather as much as possible. "We love that Veja is environmentally conscious, as this is something we have always thought about at Mansur Gavriel," wrote the duo. "We intentionally create classic shapes that have longevity and use leather that wears well and sustains over time." A new collaboration between the two brands debuts this week that offers Veja's classic Campo trainer in four striking colors. Choose among a morpho butterfly blue, a soft clay, a rose pink or a sunrise yellow — and match your new pair of shoes with Mansur Gavriel accessories, such as a woven tote or a slouchy shoulder bag, while you're at it. $175; veja-store.com or mansurgavriel.com.

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SEE THIS

A Revived East Hampton Gallery Space

The facade of Onna House in East Hampton, N.Y.Jordan Tiberio

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

From hosting women's liberation salons led by Gloria Steinem and Betty Friedan to sitting for one of Andy Warhol's first portraits, the art collectors Robert and Ethel Scull were at the glamorous center of the 1960s culture, as was their modernist mansion in East Hampton. Staying true to the original ethos of their home as a living art gallery — the Sculls once covered the walls with works by Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg, to name a few — the art collector, designer and women's rights advocate Lisa Perry purchased the property in early 2021 and reimagined it as Onna House, an arts space devoted to creating visibility for the work of women-identifying artists and designers. When it opens to the public this May, the home, which Perry transformed to incorporate Japanese design elements like a verdant moss garden and a tranquil tearoom, will host its inaugural exhibition, consisting of colorful woven tapestries by the Japanese textile artist Mitsuko Asakura and a paper dress collection by the Swiss-born artist and designer Ligia Dias. Though visitors can book viewing appointments, Perry also hopes Onna House will be a gathering place for discovery and collaboration among creatives, with regular community events and discussions. onnahouse.com.

BUY THIS

Floral Hosting Gear From Colombia

Left: Casa Velasquez Sinu Violette Dress and Denim Gardening Apron. Right: Embroidered Terracotta and Navy Trim Dinner Napkins, Table Stationery Set in Coral Mompox (16 menus and 16 place cards, plus one extra of each for practice) and Sole Coral Dress in printed linen.Andrés Oyuela

By Julia Bozzone

T Contributor

It was a desire to look polished while "cooking up a storm and building giant cakes" on photo shoots for the likes of Saveur magazine and Williams-Sonoma that, she says, led the Brooklyn-based food stylist Mariana Velásquez to design her signature cross-back, pinafore-style aprons. She had them made by a women-owned workshop in her native Colombia and started selling them about a decade ago. While planning her 2021 cookbook, "Colombiana," Velásquez began imagining a line of tableware that evoked the essence of Santa Cruz de Lorica, the Colombian port town where her grandmother lived that had made a vivid impression on Velásquez as a child for its fusion of Caribbean and Lebanese cultures. Now, in partnership with the Colombian workshop owners Blanca Muñoz and Catalina Avila, she's produced Casa Velasquez, an elevated line for entertaining that includes table linens, her trademark aprons and hand-painted menu and place cards in the exuberant local palette of terra-cotta, mustard and pink, as well as dresses and tops with voluminous sleeves inspired by the dramatic arches in the town's public market. The debut collection's cotton and linen pieces, in stripes and chrysanthemum prints, are meant to be mixed and matched, and though Velásquez believes entertaining is making a comeback, they could also be used to brighten up an otherwise routine weeknight dinner. From $30, casavelasquez.co.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

A Full-Circle Show Curated by Simone Rocha

Francesca Woodman's "Self-Portrait Talking to Vince, Providence, Rhode Island" (1977).Courtesy of the Woodman Family Foundation and Marian Goodman Gallery/ © Woodman Family Foundation/DACS, London

The line between fashion and art is often permeable, but the designer Simone Rocha definitively crossed over with "Girls, girls, girls," a group show she has curated at the nonprofit Lismore Castle Arts in Ireland. For it, Rocha, who often looks to artists for inspiration for her namesake line, selected works by female talents who, like the designer herself, explore codes of femininity and the various chapters of womanhood, and posit progressive notions of beauty that poke at convention. She made a point, too, of including a range of perspectives and media. Works by Roni Horn, Cindy Sherman, Sophie Barber, Cassi Namoda, Francesca Woodman, Louise Bourgeois and others take the form of photography, oil painting, sculpture, textiles and more. There are also a number of pieces, such as a wax-covered saccharine pink dress by Iris Häussler and a pair of surreal cowhide stilettos by Dorothy Cross, that bring things full circle — and further the dialogue — by referencing items of clothing. "Girls, girls, girls" runs from April 2 to Oct. 30. Read more fashion and arts coverage at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter referred incorrectly to the Quinte oyster bar at the Pinch hotel in Charleston, S.C. The bar is scheduled to open this summer; it is not currently open.

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