2022年5月4日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Maurice Harris's beauty routine, jewelry from the Met — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

The Floral Designer Maurice Harris's Beauty Regimen

Left: Maurice Harris. Right, clockwise from top left: Dr. Bronner's Hemp Peppermint Pure-Castile Soap, $6, drbronner.com; Hylamide by Deciem, $16, deciem.com; Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle the Night, $1,600, fredericmalle.com; Everyday Oil Mainstay, $48, everydayoil.com; Pattern Beauty Intensive Conditioner, $42,patternbeauty.com; Vintner's Daughter Active Botanical Serum, $195, vintnersdaughter.com; Le Labo Mandarin Shower Oil, $35, lelabofragrances.com; Diptyque Eau Rose Eau de Parfum, $190, diptyqueparis.com; and Lush Renee's Shea Souffle Hair & Scalp Oil, $17, lushusa.com.Left: Jorge Rivas. Right: courtesy of the brands.
Author Headshot

Interview by Caitie Kelly

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Fragrance is all about storytelling. I layer scents: I use D.S. and Durga I Don't Know What as my base and then top it with Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir or Vetiver Extraordinaire, or lately I've been wearing the collaboration I did with Diptyque, Eau Rose. To finish, on the back of my neck I wear a tiny bit of the Night from Frederic Malle. For cleanser, I use Ultraluxe Red Grapefruit Wash and then Vintner's Daughter Active Treatment Essence and serum. I've been using their products for five years or so — they're so expensive but really work! The Matte 12 mattifier from Deciem is bomb. I really don't like looking like I have on makeup when I'm on camera and, when I use this product, I feel like I don't even need to. I love a long, hot shower, and I burn incense while I'm in there — there's something so nice about the smoke and steam melding. I love Santa Maria Novella's incense. I use Dr. Bronner's Pure Castile Soap in either tea tree or peppermint and Le Labo's Shower Oil; it moisturizes the skin after the Dr. Bronner's really strips it. I use Pattern Beauty's Intensive Conditioner a lot, and Shea Moisture's Coconut & Hibiscus Frizz-Free Curl Mousse. I was using Renee's Shea Souffle from Lush in my hair and on my whole body this past winter, because it was so dry, but in the summer I use Everyday Oil instead. I do like a Sea Breeze moment; that was my dad's after-shave, and it finds its way into my bathroom cabinet every so often.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

COVET THIS

Textured Pottery from Grace Fuller Marroquín

From left: La Señorita and La Original.Francois Dischinger

By Gage Daughdrill

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"Every time I go to Mexico, I fall for it more," says the New York-based gardener and landscape designer Grace Fuller Marroquín. For her latest project, she partnered with a workshop in the state of Michoacán to put her own spin on the region's ornamental tradition of piñas, pineapple-themed pottery made with natural clay and formed to mimic the fruit's spikes and leafy crown. The process for each of Fuller Marroquín's unique planters, which come with a complementary (and complimentary) plant already set inside, involved selecting clay from the nearby mountains that was shaped and baked in an open-air oven, and then cooled for several days before it was glazed. Her designs have an almost alien quality that on second glance emulates that of flora: the pocked black face of a sunflower, say, or the pads of a cactus. "The master artisans within the country are unparalleled," says Fuller Marroquín, who just planted her first project there and hopes to return soon. Starting this week, the 20-piece collection is on display and for sale exclusively at the Row's Manhattan flagship. 17 East 71st St., (212) 755-2017.

LISTEN TO THIS

A New Album From Pierre Kwenders

"José Louis and the Paradox of Love" (left), a newly released album by Pierre Kwenders (right).Left: Daniele Fummo. Right: Melissa Levin.

By Daniel Wagner

T Contributor

Born in Kinshasa, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Pierre Kwenders immigrated with his family to Montreal in 2001, and later joined his local choir. Around five years ago, he left his job as a tax collector and accountant to focus more on his music, for which he's twice been nominated for Canada's Polaris Prize. His third and latest album, "José Louis and the Paradox of Love" (2022), pays homage to his early years spent singing in church — and listening to the greats of Congolese rumba. Its title references the artist's birth name, José Louis Modabi (he took his stage name from his grandfather Pierre), and he describes its songs as his most personal yet. They were recorded in studios in Montreal, Lisbon, Santiago, Seattle and New Orleans — Kwenders likes to "switch up the inspiration," he says — and the result is an endlessly listenable album that combines pop, R&B and electronic music with melodic vocals delivered in a mixture of Lingala, French, English, Tshiluba and Kikongo. Among the standout tracks are the hypnotic opener, "L.E.S. (Liberté Égalité Sagacité)," and the dancier "Coupe" — though, really, either of these could be played at a dinner party or the club. Kwenders is also a co-founder of the artist collective Moonshine, which hosts parties, held around the world, every Saturday after the full moon. The group, he says, has a goal of "spreading love through highlighting music we can't find anywhere else — people like to call it the global club sound, but for us most of it came from Africa." So look out for the next lunar cycle, or catch Kwenders on tour next year. shop.arts-crafts.ca

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BUY THIS

Jewelry Inspired by the Met's Islamic Art Department

Left: Silvia Fumanovich earrings. Right, from top: Munnu the Gem Palace earrings; Hanut Singh earrings, all available at the Met Store, (212) 570-3767.Courtesy of the brands

The relationship between New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art and Islamic works is long and rich, from the first pieces of jewelry it acquired in 1874 to the founding of its Department of Islamic Art in 1963 to the department's massive expansion a decade ago into 15 galleries. This spring, the museum has observed the anniversary of that renovation by inviting a handful of global craftspeople who pursue ancient techniques and design principles to create fine jewelry, clothing, home goods and accessories for a capsule collection called the Heirloom Project. "The Met has served as an endless source of inspiration for my work," says the Brazilian jewelry designer Silvia Furmanovich, who looked to Iznik plates and tiles from the museum's Ottoman-era archives to create two earring designs and a clutch, all inlaid with wood via the centuries-old practice of marquetry. Other participating makers include Munnu the Gem Palace, helmed by the Kasliwal family of Jaipur, which fashioned a pair of colorful enamel earrings featuring an Indian poppy motif, and the New Delhi-based contemporary jewelry designer Hanut Singh, who produced carved emerald and diamond pendants. Available at the mezzanine gallery of the Met Store, (212) 570-3767.

SEE THIS

A Show From a Mexican Gallery, in the Heart of New York

Left: Adolfo Riestra's "Personal Diary" (2022) on the wall and Frida Escobedo's "Creek Bench" (2021) in the foreground. Above right: Rubén Ortiz Torres's "Kintsugi Crash" (2022). Below right: drawings by Adolfo Riestra, 1976-84.Courtesy of the artists and Masa Galeria

By Samuel Rutter

T Contributor

On a regular spring day at Rockefeller Center Plaza, you see the flags of the world's 193 nations stirring gently in the breeze. But from May 5, the flagpoles will instead be flying everyday items of clothing donated to the artist Pia Camil for her "Saca Tus Trapos al Sol" ("Air Out Your Dirty Laundry") installation, one component of "Intervención/Intersección," an exhibit put on by the Mexico City-based gallery Masa and curated by Su Wu. At the remainder of the show — held inside a former post office — you'll find a wide range of work by Mexican artists and non-Mexican ones whose work nonetheless engages with the country's traditions. There are rarely seen erotic drawings by Adolfo Riestra, who was born in Tepic in 1944 and is better known for his totemic sculptures, and an original 1937 plaster relief carved by Isamu Noguchi, who traveled to Mexico City in 1935 and stayed for about eight months (it was inspired by his interactions with local talents, including Frida Kahlo, with whom he had a brief affair). These sit alongside contemporary pieces that repurpose waste materials, among them light switch covers resembling faces that Tomás Díaz Cedeño made from salvaged scrap metal, and sculptural car hoods riddled with bullet holes and repaired with gold rivulets in the Japanese Kintsugi style by Rubén Ortiz Torres. As Wu, who is interested in what it means to transform a space or material and to unsettle established narratives, sees it, "These artists are questioning the whole idea of monumentality and singular genius." On view at Rockefeller Center Plaza and by appointment, May 5-June 25, masaatrockefellercenter.as.me/nyc.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Saweetie Shares a Tune

Kurt Collins

The rapper Saweetie — featured on one of the covers of T's 2022 Culture issue, which explores 24 hours in the creative life — is a longtime fan of the band the Internet. Here she discusses her favorite song by the group, "Hold On" (2018). See the full story at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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2022年4月29日 星期五

The Daily: The Court and the Culture Wars

When "religious freedom" gets complicated.

The big idea: The court and the culture wars

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

In deciding Joseph Kennedy's case, the Supreme Court could make a major statement about the role religion may play in public life.Ruth Fremson/The New York Times

A complicated legal case has been reduced to a provocative headline: "Can a public high school coach pray publicly?"

The takes were just as hot in reply. "Jesus said to pray in a 'closet,' not on the 50-yard line," read an op-ed in The Los Angeles Times, while The Atlantic implored: "Let Coach Kennedy Pray."

The Supreme Court's ruling in Kennedy v. Bremerton School District will likely be another firebomb fanning the culture-war flames. In a series of decisions on public funding for religious schools, same-sex foster parenting and public health exemptions during the pandemic, the court has moved "in the direction of a larger role for religion in public life," Adam Liptak, our legal correspondent, said on Wednesday's show.

But what are the long-term implications of this shift? And how is a "lopsided, supercharged six-justice conservative majority," as Adam described the current court, expanding the cultural and legal power of the religious right?

What is at stake in this ruling

The case in question asks whether the law permits Joseph Kennedy, a high school football coach in Bremerton, Wash., to pray on the field after football games. The Supreme Court's conservative majority seemed to be searching on Monday for a narrow way to rule in favor of the coach.

Narrowly, this case is about the rights of government workers (in this case, a public school coach) to free speech and the free exercise of their faith. But it's also a case that will have spillover effects for other legal questions, including: When is a government official acting as a state representative, and when are they acting as an individual? What constitutes religious coercion? And just how separated should church and state really be?

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"The court is moving in the direction of and of encouraging religion to enter the public square and to infuse government. And there never has been a period since the 19th century when the court was that willing to just let the wall of separation between church and state down," Laurence Tribe, a professor of constitutional law at Harvard, said.

Who could come out ahead

The recent run of victories for claims of religious freedom in the Supreme Court have mostly involved Christian groups. That is a change from an earlier era, a recent study found, when the court's rulings tended to protect minority religions and dissenting Christian denominations. (And the court's track record in cases involving Muslim plaintiffs is decidedly mixed, most notably because it rejected a challenge to former President Donald J. Trump's ban on travel from several predominantly Muslim countries.)

"While other [religious groups] may be collateral beneficiaries, the Christians are the primary beneficiaries and that allows them to essentially dictate the terms of their engagement with culture," Robert Tuttle, a professor of law and religion at George Washington University, said.

What could the long-term implications be?

Experts say a conservative majority on the court has emboldened conservative legislators and activists on the religious right to be more strident on multiple issues, including abortion, gun rights, affirmative action and voting rights. As Stuart Stevens, a longtime Republican strategist and Trump critic, told The Morning, "Many in the party see that they no longer need to pretend and they can go back to voicing what they really believe."

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While conservatives are celebrating their majority on the court, some experts question whether this string of rulings will actually be a long-term victory for religious freedom.

"I think initially, the court's direction will be seen by the religious right as a validation of its central place in American politics. But in the long run, I think religious people generally may come to regret what happens when they become so intertwined with the political ascendancy of the right," Mr. Tribe said. "Religious and political or governmental institutions should stay as far apart as possible if the society is not to tear itself apart.

"Because the winds of politics don't follow any particular theology or scripture," he said. "You know, if you ride the back of the tiger, you may end up inside."

From the Audio team: Your Weekend Playlist

Molly Shannon is known for her plucky, determined characters — a spirit that's vivid in her new memoir.Chantal Anderson for The New York Times

This month, as ever, the narrated articles team has been hard at work taping journalists from across the newsroom to bring their journalism to audio. As we prepare to round out this month, here is a selection of some of our best profiles for your weekend playlist. Enjoy.

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The Wolf of Crypto: In the 1990s, Jordan Belfort had a debauched career in high finance, which was immortalized in his tell-all book "The Wolf of Wall Street," and Martin Scorsese's 2013 film of the same name featuring Leonardo DiCaprio. Now, he is turning his attention to a thoroughly modern financial pursuit: NFTs and cryptocurrencies.

The Unsinkable Molly Shannon: Molly Shannon is more knowing than her oblivious characters, but she shares their determination to forge ahead happily no matter the circumstances. That spirit is vivid in her new memoir, "Hello, Molly!" But before readers get to picturesque tales of her upbringing and career, they must first follow her account of one of the darkest days of her life: a car accident that devastated her family.

Richard Linklater and Sandra Adair: "Apollo 10½: A Space Age Childhood" is the 20th feature film that the director and writer Richard Linklater has worked on with Sandra Adair, his longtime editor. The movie's release marked 30 years since the pair embarked on what is among the most enduring collaborations in American movie history.

Valerie Lemercier's Journey to the Center of Celine: Valérie Lemercier's new film — which is kooky, heartfelt and loving — is about an endearingly quirky, mega-famous Canadian belter. Her hits include "My Heart Will Go On" and "The Power of Love." She was happily married to her much older manager. The film's protagonist is not Celine Dion, but Aline Dieu.

On The Daily this week

Monday: A look at efforts to reform traffic stops, and how they might be stymied by the rise in violent crime.

Tuesday: How an obscure Florida lawsuit could endanger the C.D.C.'s ability to intervene in future health crises.

Wednesday: The Supreme Court will soon decide a case that could make a major statement about the role religion may play in public life.

Thursday: Around 60 percent of Americans have had Covid. What does that mean for the future of the pandemic?

Friday: The risks of the United States new, more aggressive stance toward Russia and the war in Ukraine.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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