2022年5月11日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A hotel in Barcelona's creative district, a monograph of eerie fashion photos — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

A Hotel in Barcelona's Creative District

Guest rooms at the Hoxton, Poblenou are outfitted in Mediterranean-inspired design elements.Courtesy of Ennismore

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

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Barcelona's bohemian side can be found in its El Poblenou neighborhood, where old factories and mills are now used as artist studios and design showrooms, so it's fitting that a hotel brand like the Hoxton, which aims to build cultural hubs in cities across the globe, would open its first Spanish property here. Guests enter the 10-story space via a lobby appointed with fluted leather sofas and lounge chairs that frame an all-day bar hand-painted with an abstract mural in shades of avocado and orange by the Catalan artist Maria Marvila. The 240 rooms feature handwoven Indian tapestries inspired by the geometric work of the Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill hanging above dusty teal headboards, jewel-toned artworks curated by the Barcelona-based John Brown Projects and soothing terra-cotta floors laid with natural jute rugs. Visitors and locals alike can savor the property's dining options, which bring a taste of the Americas back to Spain: Detroit-style pizzas are served at the ground-floor restaurant Four Corners, and at the hotel's Mexican rooftop bar and poolside eatery, Tope, pulled pork tacos and tequila-based cocktails come with an unmatched view of the city's most iconic structure, the Sagrada Familia. Rooms from $195, thehoxton.com/poblenou.

SEE THIS

A New Examination of Kikuo Saito

From left: Kikuo Saito's "Ouray" (1979) and "Blue Loop" (2007)Courtesy of Altman Siegel

By Adriane Quinlan

T Contributor

When the Tokyo-born painter Kikuo Saito died in 2016 at age 76, after 50 years in the United States, he left behind a career as a wallflower to the big names of Abstract Expressionism. As an assistant, he'd mixed paint for Helen Frankenthaler and Larry Poons, but interest in Saito's own lush, gestural abstractions didn't surface until the late 1980s, only to be submerged by two setbacks: the death of his first wife, the dancer Eva Maier, in 1997 and, 10 years later, the scandalous end of his gallery, Salander-O'Reilly. Through it all, Saito never stopped working, and a retrospective up now at San Francisco's Altman Siegel gallery is part of a broader reconsideration of how artists of Asian descent have been cut out of the history of postwar abstraction. The survey shows Saito's genius for color choices — for the dash of marigold that holds down "Ouray" (1979) or the cerulean popping from the sage shadows of "Blue Loop" (2007) — as well as his efforts designing sets for avant-garde theater productions. "I think he'd say he was comfortable in the margins, and that's where his strength was," says Maier's cousin the novelist Joshua Cohen. "I think he'd also say he was here all along." "Ouray" is on view through June 25 at Altman Siegel in San Francisco, altmansiegel.com.

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VISIT THIS

A Piercing Studio by Pamela Love

The interior of Pamela Love's Brooklyn store and piercing studio includes woven textiles, natural wood and display cases featuring Love's jewelry line. Elisabet Davidsdottir

Piercing your ears may seem like a simple thing to do, but the jewelry designer Pamela Love — who has 15 ear piercings ("I had to take a moment to check," she says. "I'd honestly lost count!") — recommends going to a place where you can consult with a trained professional who will study the shape of your ear (or elsewhere) to make considerate suggestions on how best to adorn yourself. "There's a huge difference in the process," says Love. Opening this week is Love's first-ever New York City studio and shop; her namesake jewelry line — inspired by astrology, folklore and tarot, among other influences — was launched in 2007. She worked with Uli Wagner, the Brooklyn-based architect, to create a space that is light and airy, featuring plenty of plants, woven textiles and natural wood. Love's staff uses hollow single-use needles for better precision and versatility, and her jewelry on offer — from crescent studs to pomegranate huggies — is all made with recycled 14-karat gold and ethically sourced precious stones. "This was extremely important to me," Love says. "Piercing isn't painless, but everything surrounding the experience should be as luxurious and comfortable as possible." Piercing is complimentary with a purchase, from $150; 145 North 6th Street, Brooklyn; pamelalove.com.

BUY THIS

Seasonless Clothes, Made Sustainably

Clockwise from bottom left: Bleusalt blazer, $350, bleusalt.com; Ouisa top, $225, ouisa.clothing; Caes dress, about $460, caes-store.com; and Sl'eau pants, about $610, sleau.com.Top left: Coni Tarallo. All other images: courtesy of the brands

By Gage Daughdrill

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A surprisingly chilly spring in the Northeast means that sweaters have stayed in rotation even as warm-weather garments have come into play. It's an aesthetic designers are embracing with an eye to sustainability. "Seasonless style to have and to hold on to" is the tagline for the London-based brand Sl'eau, which was launched last year by the designer Vanessa Jones and utilizes zero-waste practices for its billowy, plissé blouses and swingy iridescent trousers. The New York-based stylist Bryn Taylor debuted her line Ouisa last year, too, in response to the pieces clients were always asking for: "They request items that offer ease, longevity and versatility," says Taylor, whose biannual presentations of six foundational garments, like a crisp button-down and classic T-shirt, can be worn any time of year. Also providing streamlined capsule collections is the Malibu, California-based brand Bleusalt; its founder, Lyndie Benson, makes blazers, unisex wraps and the rest of her evergreen line predominantly in Tencel, a fabric derived from sustainably sourced raw wood materials. Then there's Caes, the Amsterdam brand formed by the designer Helen de Kluiver in 2019 in response to her concerns about fast fashion's environmental impact. Her fundamental garments — ankle-length dresses, an A-line black skirt, a traditional trench — have subtle but special touches, like seam detailing and gathered pleating, and are rendered in organic cottons, recycled polyesters and vegan leather. "I created Caes from the belief that less is more," says de Kluiver, "but that the pieces we do invest in should reflect our ideals."

READ THIS

A Collection of Uncanny Fashion Images

Photographs from Elizaveta Porodina's new monograph, "Un/Masked."Courtesy of the artist and Concrete Rep

By Coco Romack

T Contributor

Before her work in the fashion industry — shooting supersaturated imagery for Dior's fall 2021 season and capturing Carolina Herrera-clad ballerinas for the brand's impressionistic fall 2020 campaign — the Moscow-born, Munich-based photographer Elizaveta Porodina set out on a career as a clinical psychologist. That time spent studying and treating mental illness, including two years in a state-run psychiatric facility, allowed her to learn "profoundly about human behavior," she says, and her grasps of melancholy and resilience can be sensed from the eerie photographs compiled in her first monograph, "Un/Masked," and in the concurrent exhibition "окна" at Fotografiska in Stockholm. A quick glance at one portrait, first published in The Perfect Magazine, shows the makeup artist Cécile Paravina's glamorous face powdered a stark bone white; upon closer inspection, one notices the model's teeth have been blotted out in the same glossy scarlet as her lips, leaving the look in her eyes suddenly unnerving. Such a twist of beauty's familiar forms into the uncanny is a trademark for Porodina, whose references include the collages of the Surrealist artist Max Ernst, as well as the bold colors and "sinister messages," as she calls them, of Italian giallo horror films. "I love to call myself a student of the dark side," she says. About $50, hatjecantz.de. "окна" is on view through June 12 at Fotografiska Stockholm, fotografiska.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Fresh Flowered Fabrics

The guest room of Louis Armstrong's home in Corona, Queens, still has its original late 1960s botanical-print wallpaper and matching upholstery; the portrait is of Armstrong's wife, Lucille.Chris Mottalini

T Eye Candy: This roundup of floral fabrics, whether zinnia-printed curtains in Connecticut or on an iris-accented sofa in Florence, Italy, is sure to inspire warm-weather decorating. See the full story at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misidentified the artist of "Personal Diary" (2022), one of the works included in Masa gallery's "Intervención/Intersección" exhibition. The work was done by Jose Dávila, not Adolfo Riestra. Additionally, the newsletter referred incorrectly to Grace Fuller Marroquín's planters. Some — not all — of the planters come with a plant set inside.

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2022年5月6日 星期五

The Daily: Shifting Feminism in America

America is contending with many of the same issues as 50 years ago.

Welcome to the weekend. This week, our episode planning shifted after someone leaked a draft majority opinion by the U.S. Supreme Court to overrule Roe v. Wade. The news has rocked both the court and the country, and we'll continue to cover the fallout next week as we continue to gather reactions.

Today's episode was the first part of that coverage. We heard from Americans who welcomed this week's news — including those you might not expect, like Jess Meeth, 26, who identified as a feminist, a Democrat and an anti-abortion activist. Are these identities contradictory? We explore that question below.

Before you read on: Do you have a question about this news you'd like answered? Or thoughts on this week's episodes? Let us know. We always love to hear from you.

The big idea: The shifting state of feminism in America today

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

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A rally outside the Supreme Court on Tuesday. The original decision in Roe v. Wade, the case that established the right to abortion in the United States, was announced in 1973.Sarahbeth Maney/The New York Times

If history repeats itself, we're in a particularly uncanny moment of déjà vu.

In 1973, the United States withdrew, defeated, from a protracted, brutal war; debated the right to an abortion in the Supreme Court; and weathered a tense geopolitical standoff with Russia, with no end in sight. Sound familiar?

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Fifty years later, America is contending with many of the same forces. This week, after a draft majority opinion to overrule Roe v. Wade was leaked, some Americans asked how much had really changed in the intervening years, specifically regarding women's rights.

So below, we take a closer look at that question, asking: If the right to abortion was a central pillar of the second-wave feminist movement, what does the public reaction to the leak reveal about the state of feminism today?

The question of progress

A majority of American women say "feminist" describes them well, according to a Pew study from 2020. This is, in many ways, a testament to the work of women over the last century to normalize support for gender justice and women's rights — specifically those who campaigned in the 1960s and '70s.

When "The Feminine Mystique" was published in 1963, catalyzing feminism's "second wave," it created a reaction so intense that Betty Friedan could later write another book about the things women said to her about the first one ("It Changed My Life"). The claims that Ms. Friedan made were revolutionary — and the movement inspired by her work was regularly dismissed as radical.

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Now, the concept of feminism is so mainstream, it has become a lucrative market for retailers, and the very currency of corporate credibility. But the widespread acceptance of the concept hasn't necessarily translated into political, social or economic equity.

For example, there are more women in public office today than there were 50 years ago. But at the current rate, gender equality in the highest positions of power will not be reached for roughly another 130 years. Similarly, women around the world have more legal rights than they have ever had before — but they have, on average, three-quarters of the legal rights of men. Still, this type of relative progress was presented as one basis for repealing abortion rights in the Supreme Court's draft opinion.

An argument based on women's progress

The argument goes like this: More women now work and have access to health care, some legal workplace protections and information about adoptive services. Therefore, pregnancy and parenthood are not the hardships they once were.

Lawyers representing the State of Mississippi, the appellant in the lawsuit that could bring about the end of Roe v. Wade, claim that "sweeping policy advances now promote women's full pursuit of both career and family."

Not everyone agrees with that claim. "In Justice Samuel Alito's draft opinion that would overturn Roe v. Wade, perhaps what's hardest to bear for abortion rights advocates is the implicit suggestion that the progress women have made is a reason to throw out Roe," Emily Bazelon, a staff writer at The New York Times Magazine, wrote.

"In a sense, he turns feminism against itself."

'A place of multiple feminisms'

Second-wave feminists have been quick to rally against the draft opinion, dismissing this line of argumentation as well as the claim that abortion rights aren't constitutionally protected.

Abortion "was not mentioned in the constitution because women weren't mentioned in the constitution. But the principle of democracy is a very precious one, and it upholds the right for men and women to make decisions over our own physical beings," Gloria Steinem said this week.

But unlike in the 1970s, when Ms. Steinem and her contemporaries were charting new intellectual territory, feminism today has grown large enough to lack centralized leadership or firm ideological coherence. While most of America agrees gender justice is a worthy goal, many disagree on how to achieve it. Specifically, some younger feminists argue previous waves of feminism did not include transgender people or prioritize racial equity. And as you heard today, some young women identify as both feminist and anti-abortion.

"I don't think we are in a wave right now," April Sizemore-Barber, a gender studies scholar, said a few years ago during the #MeToo movement. "I think that now feminism is inherently intersectional feminism — we are in a place of multiple feminisms."

So while the feminist movement in the 1970s helped create the social conditions that brought about Roe v. Wade in the first place, the question remains: whether modern feminism will have the coherence to determine what comes after — that is, if the draft opinion becomes the actual opinion.

For your weekend playlist

Wesley Morris, co-host of "Still Processing," was 11 when "Fatal Attraction" came out. The movie, an erotic thriller starring Glenn Close and Michael Douglas, made a permanent impression on the way Wesley thinks about certain aspects of lust and suspense. "There's a lot wrong with this movie, and yet — and yet! — it's such a good movie," he said on this week's episode of the show.

Wesley invited Parul Sehgal, a staff writer at The New Yorker, to discuss the movie. Both Wesley and Parul watched "Fatal Attraction" over and over as preteens, and they've rewatched it multiple times since. "Every time I see this movie, I identify with a different character," Parul said. "I have a different sense of what this movie is about."

As Wesley and Parul break down the most powerful scenes, they are reminded of the lack of high-stakes sex onscreen today. They discuss why the erotic thriller genre has disappeared — and what could be gained from seeing more genuine, grown-up sex in movies.

Listen to the episode, and check out "Fatal Attraction" if you need to escape this weekend.

On The Daily this week

Tuesday: Whom has former President Donald J. Trump backed in the midterm elections? To what lengths have candidates gone to secure his favor?

Thursday: We map out what would happen if the Supreme Court were to revoke Roe v. Wade.

Friday: Part 1 of two episodes on a possible post-Roe America: anti-abortion activists on the future of their mission.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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