2022年5月18日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

An art installation in Chinatown, a new restaurant in Toronto — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

SEE THIS

Provocative Portraits by Geoffrey Chadsey

From left: Geoffrey Chadsey's "The Patriots" (2018) and "Nantucket Reds" (2020), which was originally created for T.© Geoffrey Chadsey, courtesy of the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York

By Gillian Brassil

T Contributor

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For many people, the fitful isolation imposed by the pandemic has produced a crisis of self-presentation: What should I wear now? How do I want to be seen? The artist Geoffrey Chadsey's new show at Jack Shainman addresses this conundrum head-on in a series of larger-than-life portraits done in watercolor pencil, though his exploration of these questions has spanned decades. His latest subjects are composites caught between identities: a Black man in a cowboy hat sprouting extra white limbs, an androgynous figure in a bold red suit prodding their chest into cleavage, John F. Kennedy in football pads. "The drawings are in some ways about photography," Chadsey says, "how men project a sense of self through self-portraiture online. And then I like when I get to recombine them and accidents happen." He builds his sketches in Photoshop using found material, from magazines to archival medical photos to mug shots, before drafting each figure onto mylar or collaging old drawings together. The fluidity of his process and materials mirrors the slipperiness of the subjects themselves, whom the artist jokingly compares to paper dolls. "There's something about that full-frontal image," Chadsey says, "this solitary figure projecting a self out into the world. There's a desire for engagement that the viewer is a little uncertain about, whether they want to pick that up or not." "Plus" is on view through June 18, jackshainman.com.

EAT THIS

A Stylish Restaurant in Toronto

From left: the chef Matty Matheson's takes on steakhouse staples at the new Prime Seafood Palace, and the maple-laden dining room.Left: Peter Lusztyk. Right: Adrian Ozimek

By Aliza Abarbanel

T Contributor

"The more I travel, the more I keep going back to the same types of restaurants: iconic steakhouses," says the Canadian chef Matty Matheson. The boisterous food personality, who found fame on Viceland and YouTube teaching audiences how to baste steaks or go duck hunting, learned to cook in Toronto's French bistros and co-owns four restaurants in Ontario. His latest, Prime Seafood Palace, is partially inspired by old-school stalwarts like New York's Peter Luger and a childhood love for the Canadian chain, The Keg, but there are no red leather booths or dark paneling in sight: Instead, Matheson asked the dynamic architect Omar Gandhi to construct an airy wood cathedral on Toronto's bustling Queens Street West. A slatted ceiling of locally sourced white maple curves to meet vertical brass screens, giving the feeling of being nestled inside an ark (or perhaps a very luxe lobster trap). Custom peachy leather booths from Coolican & Company circle tables with hidden drawers that hold gleaming Perceval steak knives until the porterhouse arrives from the open kitchen. There, Atlantic seafood, Ontario beef and produce from Matheson's own Blue Goose Farm near Lake Erie are cooked over cherry wood coals. He acknowledges the elegant surroundings are a level up from his early days as a goofball screen star. "It's a juxtaposition in what people perceive me as versus what they're going to walk into," Matheson says. "I'm 40 now, and Prime Seafood Palace is a very mature, beautiful, thoughtful restaurant." primeseafoodpalace.ca

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BUY THIS

A Vibrant Tote From the Artist Nick Cave

Left: the MZ Wallace x Nick Cave Large Metro Tote Deluxe. Right: Nick Cave's "Soundsuit" (2009).Left: courtesy of MZ Wallace. Right: © Nick Cave, courtesy of the artist

By Tilly Macalister-Smith

T Contributor

The SoHo-based bag brand MZ Wallace has been collaborating for over a decade with high-profile artists such as Raymond Pettibon, Kerry James Marshall, Njideka Akunyili Crosby and Glenn Ligon. Next up is Nick Cave, the Chicago-based artist known for creating kinetic Soundsuits that marry sculpture with performance art. "These patterns are not just reproductions of my work on fabric," says Cave of the exuberant flowers, sequins and buttons printed onto the recycled fabric of the tote, "they are clips of imagery, remixed like a D.J. might explore sound." The slogan on the strap — "Truth Be Told" — originates from the artist's public work from 2020, first installed in Kinderhook, N.Y., which featured the phrase in black vinyl letters stretched across a 160-foot facade as a response to the killing of George Floyd. The bag launched in conjunction with Cave's retrospective, which opened this month at the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago, and proceeds from its sales benefit the museum's educational programs, as well as the Facility Foundation, a nonprofit organization led by Cave and his partner and collaborator, Bob Faust, which provides scholarships and opportunities for emerging artists. $325, mzwallace.com and at the MCA Chicago shop. "Nick Cave: Forothermore," is on view until Oct. 2 at MCA Chicago.

COVET THIS

Victor Glemaud's New Line of Home Goods

The designer Victor Glemaud with two prints from his Schumacher collection: the Virginia Panel curtains in black and white and Jessie Cut Velvet couch in navy and white. Jason Geering

By Megan O'Sullivan

T Contributor

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For his first foray into interiors, the Haitian American fashion designer Victor Glemaud looked to his own New York home and the mementos that tell his story, including an image of himself as a 1-year-old, clad in a mint green short set and white boots, cutting into his first birthday cake. "That photo is a reflection of my essence, and this collection was an opportunity to bring that essence to life in a new way," says Glemaud, who is known for his statement knitwear in joyous tones of neon pink or lime green. He partnered with the esteemed design house Schumacher for the line of fabrics, wall coverings and trims, called Cul-De-Sac by Victor Glemaud, and the 14 patterns, each rendered in up to four bold yet balanced colorways, pay homage to his Haitian heritage and New York roots. A print called Toussaint Toile champions Haiti's liberator, Toussaint L'Ouverture, alongside lush palm fronds and hibiscus flowers, while Virginia Panel is a geometric style characteristic of the 1970s, with curving stripes in black and white. Many of the prints are named for the powerful women in Glemaud's life, like the Fabienne, a tropical floral in deep red or pale lilac. Together, the patterns are evidence of — and materials for — a colorful life. From $300, fschumacher.com.

VISIT THIS

An Eclectic Installation in Chinatown

A view of Tyree Guyton's installation "The Heidelberg Project, New York City" (2022), presented by Martos After Dark.Photo: Charles Benton. Courtesy of the artist, the Heidelberg Project, Detroit, and Martos Gallery, New York

By M. H. Miller

Walking south on Elizabeth Street, just above Canal, you'll find spot an inconspicuous message on a brick wall that reads 2+2=8. A painting by the Detroit-based Tyree Guyton, it is an introduction of sorts to an installation next door: Inside a small, windowed storefront operated by Martos Gallery, Guyton's dealer, the white walls are painted with clocks (one of the artist's recurring symbols), and at a table covered in detritus like an old TV, a tea set and a piece of rusted metal, a group of dirty mannequins sit as if they are a family scarfing down dinner in full view of the traffic coming off the nearby Manhattan Bridge. For much of his career, which began in the 1980s, Guyton has shown his work on a stretch of Detroit's Heidelberg Street, where he grew up. As manufacturing work declined, and the neighborhood fell into disrepair, Guyton began an unorthodox act of preservation, turning the area into a popular open-air museum by filling vacant lots with sculptures and paintings made from discarded relics: stuffed animals, busted sneakers, car hoods, broken vacuum cleaners. This tiny New York show reveals Guyton both transcending and perpetuating the legend of Heidelberg, and solidifying 2+2=8 as an artistic treatise. If you look close enough, anything — be it the block you grew up on or a busy New York street corner — can be a place of beauty and reflection. "The Heidelberg Project, New York City" is on view 24 hours a day, indefinitely, at Martos After Dark, 167 Canal Street, martosgallery.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Traveling to Istanbul, With James Baldwin as His Muse

James Baldwin in Sedat Pakay's photograph "Hookah in the Tea Garden" (1965). Pakay's film "James Baldwin: From Another Place" (1973) chronicles Baldwin's time in Istanbul.© Sedat Pakay

For T's summer 2022 Travel issue, the writer Aatish Taseer examines both his past and present selves through a trip to Istanbul. To prepare for his travels, Taseer read "James Baldwin's Turkish Decade, Erotics of Exile" (2008) by Magdalena J. Zaborowska. "Until I read this scholarly work, I had no idea how deeply embroiled James Baldwin was in Istanbul," Taseer says. "His presence in the city, his homosexuality and his feelings of liminality provided a crucial background against which to understand my own." For more, go to tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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2022年5月13日 星期五

The Daily: Gloria Steinem on Abortion Rights

Where does the abortion rights movement go next?

Welcome to the weekend. This week, we wrapped up our two-part series covering the reaction to the news that abortion rights will likely be restricted by the Supreme Court this year.

First, we heard from anti-abortion activists about where they would turn their fight now that it appears they have won a major, longstanding legal battle. Then, we spoke with abortion providers about their reaction to the news — and the choices they may face in maintaining both their professions and their principles.

Below, Gloria Steinem, leading feminist activist and author, adds her perspective to the conversation, reflecting on the draft majority opinion leak, democratic backsliding and her life in the public eye.

The big idea: Where does the abortion rights movement go next?

This interview has been condensed and lightly edited.

Celeste Sloman for The New York Times

You said this moment felt "new and angering and ancient." What feels new about it to you?

The idea that this fundamental human right of reproductive freedom and justice could be restricted again. This is a struggle in my life that has been going on since the 1950s. And the first speak-out that I remember about abortion and reproductive freedom was in 1969. It seems repetitive and cruel, but also somewhat inevitable, since patriarchy, by definition, is about controlling women's bodies. And we are still in something of a patriarchy, as we can see by who is in the White House, who is in Congress, who is in state legislatures. And it's something of a racial patriarchy, too.

Have you always been worried about the growing backlash against Roe?

It's more broad than Roe. Unless each individual person has decision making power over our own bodies, men and women, we're not living in a democracy.

Do you think this draft opinion is a sign of "democratic backsliding?"

Authoritarian movements tend to start by restricting women because we have wombs. Hitler, after he was elected, declared abortion a crime against the state.

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What would you say to someone who said that they identified both as anti-abortion rights and also as a feminist?

I would say to them: Feminism will protect your right not to have an abortion, just as it protects the right of a woman who wishes to have an abortion to do so in safety. Reproductive freedom means what it says. It means the right to have or not to have children.

So you're comfortable with anti-abortion activists identifying as feminists?

It depends if those anti-abortion activists are trying to deprive other women of the right to reproductive freedom. That's different than if they are defending their own right.

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Then there is, of course, the broader critique of modern feminism: that it has become diluted by its universality and even co-opted by capitalist forces. How would you respond?

Feminism is not a public relations tactic. It's a human rights revolution.

You once quoted Susan B. Anthony saying, "Our job is not to make young women grateful. It's to make them ungrateful." What do you hope that you've made young women ungrateful for?

Anything less than full equality, opportunity, ability to pursue their dreams.

I think we have made progress. I mean, at the end of the '60s, when there was the very first abortion speak-out, to my knowledge, anyway, here in New York City, just women standing up and telling the stories of their abortions was revolutionary. That has changed a lot.

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The need for abortion has also diminished. It was once roughly one in three American women needed an abortion at some time in her life. The abortion rate is now roughly 13 out of 1,000 women annually. The necessity of abortion has diminished because of the morning after pill. And also because more men are sharing responsibility for contraception.

The ongoing antagonism toward abortion is about controlling women and also about racism.

From The Daily team: A taxi driver's plight

Owning a New York City taxi once seemed a guaranteed route to financial security. Uber and other ride-hailing apps have upended that.Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times
Author Headshot

Compiled by Desiree Ibekwe

News Assistant, Audio

In the latest interview in our series about our team's favorite episodes, we asked our producer Jessica Cheung about her favorite show that she had a hand in making.

Her choice was a throwback to the early days of The Daily: "The Taxi Driver's Plight," an episode from the summer of 2018, which took a look at a mental health crisis among New York's yellow-taxi drivers. Here is what she had to say about it.

How did this episode come about?

It was in my first weeks at The Daily. I had attended the big 9 a.m. meeting, where all the desk editors take stock of their stories, and there was a story from Metro about a string of suicides among New York City taxi drivers. I came back to the team, as we always do after that meeting, and told them about it. We talked about it a little bit more and thought: Let's try and find a taxi driver.

How did you find a taxi driver to speak with?

I called the union — the New York City Taxi Workers Alliance — and asked if there was someone we could talk to, possibly a friend of Nicanor Ochisor, a driver who had recently died by suicide.

Within almost 30 minutes, they wrote back with the cellphone number of a taxi driver called Nicolae Hent. He was stuck in a long line waiting to pick up passengers at Kennedy Airport when we reached him. But we asked him to come to The New York Times building to pick us up so we could interview him for an hour while we paid for a ride. We all climbed into the taxi. Two producers — Annie Brown, Theo Balcomb — and Michael Barbaro sat at the back and I was sitting shotgun with the microphones.

You conducted the entire interview in a cab?!

We rode around New York, from uptown all the way to the World Trade Center and back to the Times building. It started very lighthearted. We asked him about the lunch that he kept in the compartment between the two seats, he lifted it up and showed us the mini cooler his wife had packed for him. Then we asked about his friend and came to learn about the crushing debt that they both had because of the medallion — a permit — that they had bought from the city. The value of it was decreasing and, on top of the debt they owed, taxi drivers were subject to all these fees and regulations that weren't imposed on Uber and Lyft workers. All of this meant drivers were living on the margins because of what they owed and earned.

Why does this episode stick out as a favorite?

I think some of the best stories of The Daily are when you go in with an assumption — and it's an assumption that a lot of people have — and then over the course of reporting the story and talking to people that assumption is undone and the truth is way more surprising than you think.

I also felt like we were on the early side of this story. This was a year before our colleague Brian Rosenthal's great reporting on predatory medallion loans that devastated people like Nicanor and Nicolae. Our conversation with Nicolae was just the tip of the iceberg of what we know now.

On The Daily this week

Monday: An exploration of the detrimental effects of America's air wars on drone pilots, who are deeply troubled by their missions.

Tuesday: How President Vladimir Putin co-opted Russia's biggest holiday for political ends.

Wednesday: In the second of a two-part series on a post-Roe America, we hear from abortion providers.

Thursday: How the effects of inflation depend on what stage of life you're in.

Friday: With the number of known deaths from Covid soon reaching one million, listeners reflect on the lives lost.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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