2022年5月25日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A dim sum restaurant in Paris, vibrant geometric pillows — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

EAT THIS

A Striking Dim Sum Restaurant in Paris

At Bleu Bao, designed by Atelieramo, a riff on traditional Chinese tea houses. Left: the ground-floor dining room, featuring an oversize reproduction of a Ming painting and sparkly tabletops. Right: the boudoirlike room upstairs, with vintage furnishings and lamps sourced at Selency. Carole Cheung

By Lindsey Tramuta

T Contributor

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After traveling across China as a college student — from Shanghai to Yunnan, Guangzhou and Beijing — to reconnect with her roots, Céline Cheung returned home to her native France with a dream to one day disrupt classic Chinese canteens with restaurants that would emphasize style as wells as the diversity of the cuisine. "I'm French Chinese and inspired by my family's heritage, but also by Paris — its sense of design and its gastronomic scene," says Cheung. Bleu Bao is the restaurateur's third and most recent spot: Designed by Atelieramo, the Paris-based interiors studio known for its work on prestige salons at the department store Samaritaine, the bao and dim sum restaurant nods to traditional Chinese teahouses and incorporates bold materials and colors, particularly the blue and white of traditional porcelain. The ground floor features velvet banquettes and an oversize reproduction of a Ming painting offset by neon yellow trim, while the upper level has more of a boudoir feel. Armchairs and daybeds replace tables and chairs, and Maison Martin Morel floral wallpaper inspired by Wong Kar-wai's film "In the Mood for Love" sets a romantic scene for throwing back char siu bao, Dongpo pork and ginger milk pudding. "I wanted to show a different side of Chinese dining," Cheung says, "without the clichés." 8 Rue Saint-Lazare, Paris, baofamily.co.

BUY THIS

Pillows That Pack a Punch

Thatcher's new collection of Form pillows, available in six different shapes.Leah Verwey

By Aileen Kwun

T Contributor

Avery Thatcher has developed a range of techniques over the course of her creative life, as evidenced by her Portland, Ore.-based wallpaper line Juju Papers — the designs of which feature paper cutouts, sponge paintings and screen prints — and her namesake pigmented concrete tile company. This month, she celebrates the merging of these two businesses into one design studio, Thatcher, with a collection of geometric Form pillows. The release reflects yet more past endeavors, including her training in sculpture and a formative stint in theatrical puppetry. "I never had a traditional career path, and I notoriously always had so many jobs at all times," says Thatcher, "but I really learned about craft and how to construct things working there." Several colleagues from that gig helped to construct and develop the playful set of six, available in colors like bottle green, dandelion and port wine. Upholstered with responsibly sourced New Zealand lambs' wool, the pillows are filled with CertiPUR-US foam, in keeping with Thatcher's climate-neutral status. Each one might (somewhat literally) punctuate a space with a jolt of energetic color, and can be tossed around for wear. "My two kids destroy them on the daily, and they've been keeping their sculptural shape," Thatcher says. From $200, thatcherstudio.com.

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COVET THIS

Handcrafted Handbags From Celine

The two styles offered for Celine's Haute Maroquinerie collection. From left: the 16; the Triomphe.Courtesy of Celine

By Jameson Montgomery

In his four years since taking the helm at Celine, the creative director Hedi Slimane has made it a priority to resurrect the precision of haute couture, as well as the intimacy — the multiple fittings required for each commission ensured a close relationship between couturier and client. After re-establishing a couture salon at the French fashion house in 2018, and reintroducing Celine's perfumery in 2019, Slimane now turns his attention to leather goods with the Haute Maroquinerie collection. Each made-to-order handbag is crafted from start to finish by a single artisan at the brand's leatherwork facility in Tuscany, with two shapes on offer. The 16, a top-handle satchel, is named for the address of Celine's atelier, at 16 Rue Vivienne in Paris, while the Triomphe, a smaller shoulder bag, has a clasp that resembles the wrought-iron chain circling its namesake arch. Both bags are rendered in the finest materials, with an array of customization options: clasps and hardware in 18-carat yellow or white gold, possible diamond detailing, goat leather interior and crocodile exterior in 14 shades, from inky patent black to a lovely lilac. Leave it to one of the Frenchiest of houses to redefine luxury. Price upon request, celine.com.

SEE THIS

Phaan Howng's Neon Dystopia

An installation view of Phaan Howng's "I'll Be Back" at Dinner Gallery.Photo: Ethan Browning. Courtesy of Dinner Gallery

By Aileen Kwun

T Contributor

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In the Taiwanese American painter Phaan Howng's imagined landscapes, flora have evolved to take on a riot of Day-Glo hues as a survival tactic against years of toxic industrial waste in a post-Anthropocene future. It's a theme the artist has explored since the late aughts, when she held down a particularly wearying day job at an electronics manufacturing company in South Florida and gained a mounting awareness of the industry's environmental impact. "I did not want my ghost to live in that cubicle forever," she recalls. This month, Howng, now based in Baltimore, presents her first solo show in New York, "I'll Be Back," a meditation on domesticity, feminism and the extractive history of house plants. The practice of taming and commodifying nature within the home dates to the Victorian era, and the artist's research included Kate Chopin's novel "The Awakening" and Charlotte Perkins Gilman's short story "The Yellow Wallpaper," as well as the sci-fi flick "Terminator 2: Judgment Day." Among the works is an immersive installation, staged as an interior overrun with acid yellow, orange and fluorescent green plants and patterns, a dizzying array of paintings, sculptures, wallpaper, furniture and more. It elicits a sort of despairing joy — an end-of-days, rave-party aplomb. "I've always been interested in how humans attempt to control and manipulate nature to fit their vision," Howng says. "Why do we do that?" "I'll Be Back" is on view through June 25 at Dinner Gallery, New York, dinnergallery.com.

TRY THIS

Wine Classes Accompanied by Spaghetti

Each guest will go home with a copy of Alessio de Sensi's book, "Uncork Your Senses."Giada Paoloni

"I am naturally thirsty to understand the endless mystery of wine," says Alessio de Sensi, the general manager of the New York Italian restaurant Scarpetta. This week, he begins sharing that oenophilia and vast knowledge — he experienced his first harvest at age six in Maremma, Italy, and received a formal education through the Italian Sommelier Association — with VinVivo, a series of in-person wine classes. The first sessions, called "World of Wine," will explain terminology, discuss tasting techniques and explore the history of winemaking while students enjoy a three-course meal (and leave with a copy of de Sensi's book, "Uncork Your Senses"). They are lessons he first provided to his colleagues as the wine director at Minetta Tavern a decade ago and continued once he joined Scarpetta in 2019, and which the LDV Hospitality founder John Meadow wanted to make accessible to the public. "Our biggest hope of our attendees is that they are empowered to find and drink what they truly love," says Meadow. $150 per ticket, exploretock.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

The Mullet Makes Its Way Back

The model Arina Besedina, photographed by the hairstylist Guido Palau in a look from Alexander McQueen's spring 2022 runway show.Courtesy of Guido Palau

In much of the Western world, mullets have largely been seen as a thwarting, whether one celebrated or feared, of convention. Take David Bowie, who wore chalky white makeup, psychedelic jumpsuits and a coiffed orange mullet to debut his otherworldly alter ego Ziggy Stardust in 1972. Not long after this glamorous alien emerged came a more working-class punk subculture for which rebellion was a raison d'être. And as much as torn clothes, safety pins, chains and piercings — the stuff of "confrontation dressing," as the fashion designer Vivienne Westwood called it — the mullet played a large part in the aesthetics of the movement. For one, the ragged style was purposefully ugly. "It was meant to be a shock to society," says the hairstylist Guido Palau, who was a mullet-wearing member of the punk scene of 1970s Dorset, England. "You'd walk down the road and people would cross over to avoid you." Read more at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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2022年5月20日 星期五

The Daily: An Invitation to Mexico City

For abortion access and provision.

Welcome to the weekend. This week on The Daily, we covered America's southern neighbor twice — looking at Mexico's feminist fight for abortion access and at Texas's recently expanded border policing efforts. In this newsletter, we wanted to explore how the two themes of migration and abortion access might be connected.

Texas has taken extensive measures to keep migrants out of the state. But what happens when the tables are turned? Some American women are now considering what options for reproductive health care will be available to them if the leaked Supreme Court opinion overturning Roe v. Wade becomes official. One option could include traveling to Mexico City, where abortion access is free to all.

Below, we speak with Mexico City's health minister, who offers her city as a destination for reproductive health care — and explains why her city should serve as a model for progressive cities in the U.S.

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The big idea: Will Mexico City become a model for progressive American cities?

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one from our show this week.

The Mexican Supreme Court decriminalized abortion in September 2021.Daniel Becerril/Reuters

After the Mexican Supreme Court decriminalized abortion, the ground shook.

On Sept. 7, 2021, news of the ruling rippled out from Mexico City, jolting the predominantly Roman Catholic country. Later that night, the capital shook again, as a nearly minute-long earthquake rattled the country's southern coast.

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The seismic metaphor is fitting for Mexico, where a majority of people believe abortion access should be illegal. The issue has bitterly divided states across the country, to the point that President Andrés Manuel López Obrador has refused to take a position.

In Mexico, access to abortion care is patchy, determined by varying state laws and policies. And over the past two decades, Mexico City has been at the forefront of the country's fight over abortion access, unlike many rural states. Since abortion was legalized in Mexico City in 2007, tens of thousands of women have traveled to the city to seek abortion care.

So as the United States faces its own prospective patchwork of abortion policy, we wanted to ask Dr. Oliva López Arellano, Mexico City's health minister: Is the city a model for progressive American states? And could it become a destination for some American women seeking abortions, should Roe v. Wade be overturned this year?

The state of abortion in Mexico

For decades, women in Mexico resorted to clandestine clinics, traditional midwives and dubious herbal potions to end unwanted pregnancies. As in countries around the world, many women died every year while receiving illicit abortion care.

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This changed in 2007, at least for some women in the country, when Mexico City's legislature legalized abortion during the first three months of pregnancy. It was a watershed vote that set the capital city apart from the rest of Mexico's states, inspired nationwide court battles and sparked social clashes between religious conservatives and liberals. Over the following years, as you heard on Tuesday's show, activists and lawyers successfully pushed for the procedure to be decriminalized in the states of Oaxaca, Hidalgo and Veracruz.

This momentum built to the Supreme Court ruling last fall. But while abortion was decriminalized at the federal level, it was not necessarily made accessible nationwide.

In Mexico, the practicalities of providing abortions are determined at the state level — leaving conservative states, often strongholds for the Roman Catholic Church, to regulate or limit access. As a result, Mexico City has become a destination for women seeking abortion care over the past 15 years.

A health care destination?

Since 2007, roughly 247,000 abortions have been performed by Mexico City health care providers, according to the city's Ministry of Health. Of those patients, 31 percent have been women from outside the city or the country. According to the ministry, no pregnant women have died from those abortion services.

Now, the city's government is inviting American women to access its free services, if abortion care is no longer available where they live. "We are open in solidarity to American women who need an abortion in Mexico City. Abortion is free and legal here," Dr. López Arellano, Mexico City's health minister said today in an interview.

The invitation stands in stark contrast to the message sent by heavy militarization on the American side of the border. It also is drastically distinct from the law in neighboring Texas, where abortion is banned after about six weeks and residents are incentivized to pursue lawsuits against anyone who "aids or abets" a woman seeking an abortion, with rewards up to $10,000.

Dr. López Arellano knows it is unlikely American women will take her up on the offer en masse. The increasing accessibility of medication abortion will make it cheaper and more efficient for women to source those pills within the United States or just across the border, instead of traveling to Mexico City. Still, she believes Mexico City could become a model for American states looking to provide comprehensive health care to all women.

A model for the U.S.

Out of 50 states, 13 have passed so-called trigger laws that would outlaw abortion if the Supreme Court overturns Roe v. Wade, meaning half of American women of reproductive age stand to lose abortion access.

"This is a setback for women's rights and it is definitely a victory for those who believe women's bodies need to be controlled by someone else," Dr. López Arellano said. "We once saw the U.S. as a reference for abortion rights and access, and we took the U.S. as a model for some of the programs and education that we did in Mexico City."

Still, she believes this moment could compel progressive mayors and governors to re-examine their abortion policy and consider whether they can provide even more robust support for women.

After the draft majority opinion was leaked, governors and mayors in Democratic states were quick to promise to be havens for abortion access, in some cases tweeting less than an hour after the news, and introducing new bills to further strengthen abortion rights.

However, Dr. López Arellano believes support needs to go even further, modeling Mexico City's approach to comprehensive abortion care.

"We need to be clear abortion access is a right — the right to decide what happens in our own body, the right to free development of our personality and the right to health.

"But it is not enough to just provide medical support for abortion," she said. "We must accompany women with advice throughout the full process and provide psychological support, too."

Watching recommendation: "Happening," a new film that explores the intimate effects of abortion in a state where the act is criminalized. Our film critic recently wrote that it "shows you a woman who desires, desires to learn, have sex, bear children on her terms, be sovereign — a woman who, in choosing to live her life, risks becoming a criminal and dares to be free."

From the Audio team: What was your teenage anthem?

Brian Rea

For the season finale of the Modern Love podcast, listeners around the world shared the songs that taught them about love as teens. There were stories of Nat King Cole and One Direction, adrenaline rushes and loneliness, and many hard-won lessons in matters of the heart.

Anna Martin, host of the podcast, recently wrote about the process of putting this episode together, and we wanted to share an excerpt with you here:

I spent most of middle school listening to Usher's "U Got It Bad." It was almost uncanny; the ballad seemed to have been written expressly for me and my debilitating obsession with a drummer in a church band. (To be clear: by "listening to," I mean "crying to, loudly," because the drummer didn't even know my name.)

I feel like everyone has that song. The song that imprinted on them during their lovelorn, hormone-fueled formative years. So for the finale of this season of the Modern Love podcast, we asked listeners about theirs. We wanted to know: What's the song that taught you about love when you were a teenager? (You can listen to the results here.)

The responses poured in from across continents, genres and generations: Laura, from Sydney, Australia, sobbed to "Tiny Vessels" by Death Cab for Cutie because her best friend had a new girlfriend. It made her realize that her feelings went way beyond friendship. Years later, Laura and her best friend are married. […]

Noelia, from Spain, recalled driving with her host mother on the last day of her stay in America before returning home. Noelia described the moment "I've Got a Feeling" by the Black Eyed Peas came on the radio. Summer air through the open window, they screamed the lyrics together — formerly strangers, now family.

And then, there was this one email, from a listener in Canada. Brief. Direct. And for me, an emotional gut punch:

"'Girl' by the Beatles. After 55 years that song still makes me blue and yes, I still love her and no, she's not here but with another man." […]

So many listeners sent us their love songs, and I like to think of this podcast season finale as our way of sending listeners a love song back.

Listen to the season finale of Modern Love, and cue up this Spotify playlist of listeners' teenage anthems.

On The Daily this week

Monday: The racist theory behind so many mass shootings.

Tuesday: Why Mexico finds itself ahead of the U.S. when it comes to access to abortion.

Wednesday: The surrender of a steel plant in Mariupol gave Russia a rare victory, but has become a rallying cry for further resistance in Ukraine.

Thursday: Gov. Greg Abbott of Texas has pursued an expensive effort to harden the U.S.-Mexico border, but after a year, what has he achieved?

Friday: Who does long Covid affect, and how widespread is it?

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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