2022年6月1日 星期三

The T List: Six things we recommend this week

Kaleidoscopic cabinets, artistic handbags, beauty tips — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

The Beauty Expert Jamie Rosen's Regimen

Left: Jamie Rosen works in storytelling and branding for beauty, wellness, tech and travel brands, including the Conservatory and Ziip, and is a contributing editor to Town & Country. Right, clockwise from top left: Aedes de Venustas Copal Azur, $245, aedes.com. Biologique Recherche Lotion P50, mybr.com. Royal Fern Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence, $85, theconservatorynyc.com. Costa Brazil Aroma, $198, theconservatorynyc.com. Ziip Gx Series, $495, ziipbeauty.com. RMS Beauty Lip2Cheek in Illusive, $36, rmsbeauty.com. Hermès Rouge Hermès Lipstick in Rouge Orange, $69, Hermes.com. Haoma Nourishing Cleansing Balm, $85, theconservatorynyc.com. ZitSticka Megashade, $40, zitsticka.com. Soft Services Buffing Bar Microcrystal Exfoliant, $28, SoftServices.co.Portrait: Lewis Hayward. Products: courtesy of the brands

Interview by Caitlin Kelly

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I'm always rotating my products depending on what my skin needs. In the morning, I use the Nuori Vital Foaming Cleanser, and at the end of the day I wash more thoroughly with something like Haoma's Nourishing Cleansing Balm. I alternate between the Royal Fern Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence or Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. I've been using that since I became a beauty editor — P50 was like my indoctrination. Then I use Our Self's Daily Renewal Cream, which is full of peptides, or a moisturizer from the Georgian brand Senself called Rich But Light — it has a perfect texture — and the Epara Eye Serum. I use my Ziip tool to do multiple treatments once or twice a week, and before events. My face feels off balance when I don't. I always use SPF; I just finished Zitsticka's Megashade SPF, or if I'm on the go I will spray on Habit's No. 41 Mister. In the shower, I like Bastide Rose Olivier Natural Body Wash, and Soft Services' Buffing Bar. It's very satisfying. I just cut my hair short, so I've been trying styling products in a way I never had before. I like Philip B's Weightless Volumizing Shampoo and Conditioner and Charlotte Mensah's Manketti Oil Pomade. I use Kevyn Aucoin Volume Mascara and RMS Lip2Cheek in Illusive. It is such a cool shade — it makes you look flushed in the winter and more tan in the summer. To finish, I love Hermès lipstick in Rouge Orange. There are a few scents I go back to: Aedes de Venustas's salty, incense-like Copal Azur, and Maison d'Etto's Macanudo, which is more grassy, and Costa Brazil just came out with a fragrance, Aroma, that is really nice.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

COVET THIS

Handbags With an Artistic Point of View

From left: Esha Soni's Arc bag in bottle green and Orb in zebra ponyskin.Esha Soni

By Arden Fanning Andrews

T Contributor

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In the two decades since Esha Soni Seetha began creating accessories for American houses, including Proenza Schouler, for which she still works, the Mumbai, India-born designer has adopted a slow-fashion mind-set. For one thing, she believes that luxury goods should be rare investment pieces that last forever (and are never marked down). Now, she's bringing that ethos to her new namesake line, Esha Soni. Seetha spent three years working with artisans in Italy and New York to develop her debut collection, which was inspired by Jules Olitski's color field paintings and the biomorphic shapes sculpted by Jean Arp, and includes three handbags made with French calf, suede and spelt pony, as well as a sterling silver and gold vermeil necklace that looks like a strand of river stones and was a collaboration with the jeweler Christine McPartland. The Arc tote slants to one side in a way that makes you look twice, while the Slope seems to call for a cocktail party. "I was calling it the bangle bag," Seetha says of its removable bracelet handle. Artful bags will always be at the core of her brand, but she envisions the Esha Soni customer as someone who appreciates all kinds of beauty, and she's currently finalizing a selection of vessels created with the ceramist Devin Fina that will be made to order. "In a perfect world," says Seetha, "every collection is born and exists and never dies." Handbags from $1,950, eshasoni.com.

SEE THIS

Kaleidoscopic Cabinets

An exhibition view of "FreelingWaters: Collection III" on view through June 17 at the Future Perfect, New York.Alexandra Rowley, courtesy of the artists and the Future Perfect

By Will Fenstermaker

T Contributor

The resurgence of Scandinavian interior design trends in recent years has meant a ubiquity of warm woods, clean lines and spare, inoffensive furniture. The polychromatic cabinets made by the Amsterdam-based artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters, six of which comprise the duo's first U.S. solo show at the Future Perfect's West Village outpost, blow this stereotype wide open. Working under the Anglicized moniker FreelingWaters, the pair sourced 18th- and 19th-century pinewood cabinets from antiques dealers and adorned them with striking geometric forms in a vibrant, hallucinatory palette. Frieling, a painter of traditional Dutch folk murals, and Wouters, who is known for his psychedelic calligraphy, have collaborated on art exhibitions, books and men's wear since 2008 but turned their attention to furniture in 2020. "There's a tradition of what I call 'poor man's rococo' in Northern European decorated furniture," says Frieling, referring to how their cabinets expand on a rural Dutch tradition of embellished objects. Each of the works is painted all over, including inside — the interiors present more bursts of pattern, color and, in one instance, ghostly silhouettes of vases and ornate glassware. With their gradients, swerves and moiré, the antiques are recast as curios of contemporary times. Says Wouters, "We're adding a very thin layer that gives new life to these old pieces that might otherwise be discarded." "FreelingWaters: Collection III" is on view through June 17, thefutureperfect.com.

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Cleaning Products From Diptyque

From left: Diptyque La Droguerie Dishwashing liquid, $40, Dish Brush, $15, and Ceramic for Wool and Delicate Textiles, $45, diptyqueparis.com.Courtesy of the brand

What does clean smell like? According to Diptyque, the French perfumery known for its candles and fragrances, it might just be a stroll through a Mediterranean garden. At least that's the evocation — via notes of lavender, cedar and fig tree — bestowed by the multisurface cleanser in their new six-piece line of cleaning products, called La Droguerie, or "the drugstore." Created with the perfumer Olivier Pescheux, the nose behind scents for Dior and Sisley, as well as several for Diptyque, the collection also includes dish soap, leather and wood conditioner and ceramic ovals to nestle into sweater or lingerie drawers — as well as refills, to cut down on waste. The soap is citrusy, with notes of mandarin and orange blossom, and the lotion polishes those household materials while leaving a woodsy patchouli fragrance behind. As this is Diptyque, there is, of course, a candle in the mix; the company's partner the fragrance manufacturer Givaudan has developed a technology that allows candles not just to mask stale or unpleasant odors but to absorb and replace them: in this case, it's with the scent of mint, basil and crushed tomato leaves. From $15, diptyqueparis.com.

BUY THIS

Hemp Rugs in Checkerboard Patterns

From left: Checkerboard, Rook in rust and sky and Checkerboard, Queen in noir and ocher.Oskar Proctor

By Aileen Kwun

T Contributor

The Londoners Tobias Vernon, the curator of the art and design studio and gallery 8 Holland Street, and Christine Van Der Hurd, the founder of the textile atelier Vanderhurd, are also close collaborators who, for over a decade now, have designed interiors for various clients and traveled the world with a shared eye for antiques. But only relatively recently did they embark on their first joint product release, which came about after they spent a free afternoon on a 2020 work trip in New York seeing a Donald Judd retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art. Checkerboard is a collection of six dhurrie rugs that, with their repeating patterns of squares, were inspired by Judd's manner of transforming space with cubic forms. As Van Der Hurd says, "Squares are very classical and architectural" and call to mind far-reaching eras and styles, from ancient Rome to midcentury modernism. Made by artisans in Northern India using hand-spun natural hemp in warm contrasting color combinations (rust and sky, noir and ocher), the rugs are fittingly named after different chess pieces, and feature differently sized squares — "the larger the squares, the larger the personality," Van Der Hurd says. While the duo are fond of bespoke design, Vernon notes that this collection is intended to be versatile and not so precious. "It's both urban and rustic, historic and contemporary," he says. "And, like chess, it's a bit serious but meant to be playful, as well." From $1,450, 8hollandstreet.com.

WEAR THIS

A Utilitarian Clothing Collaboration

Left: Toogood x Carhartt WIP the Explorer Coat x O.G. Active Jacket in black, $408, the Tinker T-Shirt in white, $95, and the Sculptor Trouser x Double Knee Pant in wax, $228. Right: Toogood x Carhartt WIP the Photographer Jacket x Michigan Jacket in wax, $355, the Tinker T-Shirt in white, $95, and the Farmer Overalls x Bib Overalls in wax, $355, carhartt-wip.com.Lara Angelil

Faye Toogood has worn the same pair of brown men's wear Carhartt dungarees through studio work in her 20s, two pregnancies in her 30s and gardening in her 40s. "Despite spanning nearly 20 years of my life and washing them hundreds of times, they look and feel exactly how they did on the first day I bought them," says the British artist and designer, whose namesake London-based studio with her sister Erica debuts a collaboration with Carhartt's streetwear brand, Work in Progress, this month. For the six-piece, unisex collection, the sisters took Carhartt WIP's archetypal pieces and re-cut them to add the sculptural volume that's a hallmark of Toogood clothing. Offered in three neutral shades, the items maintain an appreciation for the longevity and utility that the brands share. A standout is the button-up coat with a corduroy collar, the result of splicing together Toogood's Photographer jacket with Carhartt WIP's Michigan chore coat. Its deep pockets and oversize shape allow one to move with ease, whether schlepping around the city or on cool summer evenings. Available from June 7 at t-o-o-g-o-o-d.com and carhartt-wip.com, and at select Carhartt WIP stores including 286 Lafayette Street.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Fragrance That's a Multisensory Affair

The flacons for Arpa are handblown by Jochen Holz and layer different colors of glass.François Halard

The perfumer Barnabé Fillion's latest scent, Manta, is meant to evoke the sensation of being underwater. It's the fourth fragrance from Arpa, the brand he launched last year, its offerings recognizable by their colored glass bottles, which are handblown by the artist Jochen Holz. Unlike the line's other scents, however, which were inspired by memorable destinations to which Fillion has traveled — the Dallol region of Ethiopia, a Belgian forest and the hot springs of Kyushu, Japan — Manta came out of a vision he had while in a meditation class. "I had the impression that there was a manta ray flying over me and I felt time going slower, the sounds of the sea being different, the light changing — so many sensorial moments extended to maybe two or three seconds," Fillion recalls.

His Paris laboratory is a temperature-controlled space that sits behind an automatic glass door and is covered with yellow tiles. On rows of shelves, little brown bottles are filled with his favorite raw materials and essential oils — he sources them from all over, with Manta containing elements from Paraguay and Namibia, as well as Grasse, in France. On a counter are samples for three more upcoming scents that he hopes will spark curiosity, sensation and dialogue. "What I like," he says, "is not becoming narrow, narrow. It's more like opening, opening." Read the full story at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misspelled the surname of the co-founder of the restaurant Bleu Bao in Paris. It is Chung, not Cheung.

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2022年5月27日 星期五

The Daily: The Gun Ownership Identity Problem

What happens when gun reform feels like a personal attack.

This week on The Daily, we used a headline no one wanted to read: Another Elementary School Massacre.

It's a title that defies language conventions — and logic. "Massacre" was never meant to be juxtaposed with "elementary school." But here we are, commemorating an ugly anniversary, 10 years on from the Sandy Hook shooting that led to countless unrealized promises for reform.

So why has enacting common-sense gun control been so hard? One reason, experts say, is because of the relationship between gun ownership and identity in America. We take a closer look at that idea below.

The big idea: Why gun reform is at a stalemate

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Callaghan O'Hare for The New York Times

It's a nauseating, familiar cycle.

A massacre occurs. Children die in their classrooms from a legally purchased rifle. The news spreads. And as the death count rises, horror morphs into outrage and denial simultaneously.

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In a bizarre split-screen of responses, some progressives call for gun control while some conservatives insist the answer lies in arming more Americans. Finger pointing on social media ensues.

This polarization, combined with Congressional gridlock, results in a deadly political impasse. All the while, America persists in its macabre exceptionalism — occupying a league of its own for the amount of guns in circulation, frequency of mass shootings and number of people who die by gunfire annually.

"Why are we willing to live with this carnage?" President Biden said on Tuesday night after returning from a trip to Asia. "Why do we keep letting this happen?"

One answer, according to researchers, could come from understanding the power of the identity of gun ownership. Let us explain.

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The identity of gun ownership

Gun owners in America have long felt a strong fidelity to their weapons, for a variety of reasons ranging from protection to sport. This dates to at least the 1930s, when attempts at federal gun regulation first began, according to Matthew Lacombe, a political science professor at Barnard College.

However, the individual identity of gun owners began to take shape as an organized social and political force in the late 1970s. In 1977, strident gun rights activists assumed control of the National Rifle Association and "brought the organization into closer alignment with conservative movement actors and then eventually the Republican Party," Mr. Lacombe said.

In doing so, the N.R.A. successfully made "the right to bear arms and opposition to gun control a pillar of conservative or American identity," said Mugambi Jouet, a professor at McGill University's law school. Now, the notion of gun rights is part of a "packaged" identity that "closely resembles what it means to be a Republican today," Mr. Lacombe added.

A majority of Republicans, even if they aren't gun owners, say gun regulations should either stay the same or become less strict. They also support allowing people to carry concealed guns in more places and allowing teachers and school officials to carry guns in K-12 schools. Gun owners who identify as Democrats, however, are more likely than Republicans to support moderate gun reform.

An identity under threat

The measured linkage between gun ownership and a sense of identity and community may make starting conversations about even modest gun control measures difficult.

While progressives believe they are attempting to hold a conversation based on policy, those conversations can often feel like an identity-based threat, Mr. Lacombe said.

"It no longer is about abstract policy proposals that people would be willing to accept. Instead, it's perceived as, 'these people who I consider my enemy are proposing this initiative. And that, details aside, just seems like an attack on who I am and what I believe in,'" he added. "That's certainly how the N.R.A. frames even fairly innocuous gun control measures. And that's been pretty key to its mobilization capabilities."

Absolutist in their interpretation of the Second Amendment and open to wielding controversy for its public relations benefit, the N.R.A. is quite possibly the most powerful lobbying organization and certainly one of the most feared by conservative lawmakers for its ability to initiate a career-ending backlash. According to experts, the association's capacity to mobilize may be located in the linkage between gun ownership and conceptions of identity.

Research shows that when an identity is perceived to be under attack, it often becomes even more important to a person. And in a hyper-polarized political environment, these identity-based threats have made the issue "central to many people's worldview," Mr. Jouet said. "And people are rarely willing to abandon their sense of identity."

So what?

Those who most influence this debate view gun rights as central to their individual, social and political identity. Understanding that can help reframe the conversation around gun control, Mr. Lacombe said.

Specifically, understanding the emotional appeal of identity-based arguments can encourage the gun control movement to align itself with other deeply held identities — like that of a parent interested in protecting a child. The movement "has done a much better job" of this in recent years, he added.

He also notes that this understanding could encourage activists to communicate their perspectives without "increasing the extent to which people hate an out-group," he said. "I think there is a middle ground that can highlight why an issue is something that people, for example, who care about their kids should care about without necessarily saying, 'OK, everybody who might disagree on this issue literally wants to see children die."

Ultimately, school shootings are the result of a disastrous alchemy of elements. The ease of gun access in America. Poor mental health and limited public support for treatment. A history of mediatized tragedies and the possibility of livestreaming the act with some perverse promise of infamy.

But sitting behind all of those contributing factors is a powerful social force that has worked to make this a highly emotional, not simply rational, conversation. And understanding that, experts say, could help the country collectively move toward a different future.

The alignment of the Republican Party with gun ownership is "a peculiar conception of conservatism by both U.S. historical standards and Western standards," Mr. Jouet said. "The fact that this mind-set did not gain significant traction before recent decades suggests that other perspectives may emerge someday."

From the Audio team: This week in narrated articles

Every week we curate a list of five narrated articles from the team. Sometimes these stories — read aloud by the journalists that wrote them — are newsy, often they are beautifully wacky and almost always they're touching. Here's what is on our playlist this week:

Guy Fieri, Elder Statesman of Flavortown: He is television's spike-haired rhapsodist of roadside eats. But Guy Fieri is now also winning the food world's respect as a sort of graying eminence. "If you only hear Metallica as a heavy-metal band, then you are not hearing Metallica," Mr. Fieri said in this profile. "Now maybe you don't like that style. But they're real musicians."

Baby Formula Shortage Reveals Gaps in Regulation and Reporting: The government has ordered more safeguards at an Abbott Nutrition plant. But the lack of reporting requirements and limited testing make it hard to monitor the deadly bacterium that led to a recall.

A Boxed Set for the Birds Hopes to Save Them, Too: A star-studded, 242-track trove of songs and poems inspired by birdsong is the latest project in a series of releases raising awareness about its own threatened sources.

In Minneapolis, Overhaul Efforts Stall as Police Resist Change: Since the murder of George Floyd by a veteran police officer, the city's mayor has ordered a host of policy changes to rein in the police, including banning chokeholds, restricting no-knock warrants and traffic stops and stepping up discipline for misconduct. But the department has repeatedly been caught violating the mayor's edicts.

Your Dog Is Not Ready for You to Return to the Office: Many New Yorkers have returned to their workplaces, or never stopped going to them. But for those contemplating the transition now, and for their dogs, a day of reckoning has arrived. More than 23 million American households added a cat or dog during the pandemic, according to the A.S.P.C.A., and many of those animals have never known what it is like to be left alone all day.

On The Daily this week

Monday: It was a tactical disaster for Russia's military, a failed crossing of the Donets River in eastern Ukraine led to heavy losses for Russian troops and rare criticism of the Kremlin's war efforts.

Tuesday: Lessons learned from Russia's invasion of Ukraine seem to be responsible, in part, for an apparent shift in American policy toward Taiwan.

Wednesday: What can the experience of some of the Sandy Hook parents tell us about what now awaits those who lost children in Uvalde, Texas?

Thursday: The Republican primaries in Georgia and Pennsylvania tested the lingering influence of false claims about 2020 election fraud.

Friday: The recent shutdown of one of the largest baby formula production plants in the United States has sent families scrambling to find essential food for their children.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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