2022年6月3日 星期五

The Daily: When Freedom Isn’t Free

Plus, another portrait of grief from Uvalde.

Welcome to the weekend. This week on The Daily, we continued to cover the drip of details coming out of Uvalde, Texas — what the police knew, what they heard on 911 calls from inside the classroom and why they didn't act sooner. We also heard from parents and students who survived the shooting and are in the midst of processing their grief.

Below, we share additional audio from our reporting in Uvalde and more reporting on the history of reparations in Haiti. But before we get to that, we want to know: Is there a burning question that you'd like answered? Tell us here; we always like to know what's on your mind.

The big idea: When freedom isn't free

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

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Daily life in Cap Haitien, Haiti. Haiti's "double debt" — the ransom and the loan to pay it — helped cement its path into poverty and underdevelopment.Federico Rios for The New York Times

A failed state. An aid trap. A land seemingly cursed by nature and human nature alike.

When the world looks at Haiti, one of the poorest nations on the planet, sympathy for its endless suffering is often overshadowed by scolding and sermonizing about corruption and mismanagement.

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Some know how Haitians overthrew their notoriously brutal French slave masters and declared independence in 1804 — the modern world's first nation born of a slave revolt.

But few know the story of what happened two decades later, when French warships returned to a people who had paid for their freedom with blood, issuing an ultimatum: Pay again, in staggering amounts of cash, or prepare for war.

For generations, the descendants of enslaved people paid the descendants of their former slave masters, with money that could have been used to build schools, roads, clinics or a vibrant economy.

For years, as New York Times journalists have chronicled Haiti's travails, a question has hovered: What if? What if the nation had not been looted by outside powers, foreign banks and its own leaders almost since birth? How much more money might it have had to build a nation?

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For more than a year, a team of Times correspondents scoured long-forgotten documents languishing in archives and libraries on three continents to answer that question, to put a number on what it cost Haitians to be free. You heard about the investigation on today's show. Here is where you can read on to learn more:

From The Daily team: Another portrait of grief

Grief can take many forms after a mass shooting. In Uvalde, where 19 young children and two teachers were shot dead, families are mourning Jackie Cazares and Annabelle Rodriguez, cousins killed in the same classroom.

They are grieving the loss of Irma Garcia, a fourth-grade teacher, as well as her husband, Joe, who died of a heart attack two days after her death. They are missing children who had dreams of becoming marine biologists and veterinarians, girls who hoped to be softball stars.

You heard some of these stories on Wednesday's show. We wanted to share one more story from Alfred Garza III, the father of Amerie Jo, who died in the shooting. Listen to part of his interview with Jack Healy, a national correspondent for The Times.

Modern Love is back for the summer

Brian Rea

It's been a heavy couple of weeks, so if you're looking for a bit of escape and connection, we invite you to listen to the new season of Modern Love. The first episode dropped this week, and it's a reflection on the physical objects left by loved ones who have passed — and how those objects can help us grieve.

The episode is based on Mike Rucker's essay about a beloved couch that he and his partner, John, purchased when they first moved in together. They nicknamed the couch Miss Bee. She epitomized sophistication — with her white denim slipcover, low arms, and wooden legs with brass wheels.

Over the years, Miss Bee became the anchor of Mike and John's home life. After John passed away from a rare and aggressive form of cancer, Mike decided to get rid of Miss Bee. The process of saying goodbye "unlocked a trove of mounting grief within me that wasn't, of course, about the sofa," Mike said.

In an interview with Anna Martin, host of Modern Love, Mike reflected on how grieving someone is not just an emotional process — but it's also physical. It's powerful to literally hold in your hands the everyday objects that belonged to a loved one. When you see those objects, "You don't know when something's going to hit you," Mike said. "It just kind of comes up on you like a surprise."

Check out the season premiere of the podcast, and look out for new episodes every Wednesday for the next 10 weeks. You can follow Modern Love wherever you get your podcasts.

On The Daily this week

Tuesday: Why the police took 78 minutes to stop the gunman at Robb Elementary School.

Wednesday: We hear some of the stories of those who lived through the devastation of the Uvalde massacre.

Thursday: California has one of the lowest rates of gun deaths in the United States. How did the state get that way?

Friday: How did the modern world's most successful slave revolt give birth to a desperately poor nation? A Times investigation explores the cost of Haiti's freedom.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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2022年6月1日 星期三

The T List: Six things we recommend this week

Kaleidoscopic cabinets, artistic handbags, beauty tips — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

The Beauty Expert Jamie Rosen's Regimen

Left: Jamie Rosen works in storytelling and branding for beauty, wellness, tech and travel brands, including the Conservatory and Ziip, and is a contributing editor to Town & Country. Right, clockwise from top left: Aedes de Venustas Copal Azur, $245, aedes.com. Biologique Recherche Lotion P50, mybr.com. Royal Fern Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence, $85, theconservatorynyc.com. Costa Brazil Aroma, $198, theconservatorynyc.com. Ziip Gx Series, $495, ziipbeauty.com. RMS Beauty Lip2Cheek in Illusive, $36, rmsbeauty.com. Hermès Rouge Hermès Lipstick in Rouge Orange, $69, Hermes.com. Haoma Nourishing Cleansing Balm, $85, theconservatorynyc.com. ZitSticka Megashade, $40, zitsticka.com. Soft Services Buffing Bar Microcrystal Exfoliant, $28, SoftServices.co.Portrait: Lewis Hayward. Products: courtesy of the brands

Interview by Caitlin Kelly

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I'm always rotating my products depending on what my skin needs. In the morning, I use the Nuori Vital Foaming Cleanser, and at the end of the day I wash more thoroughly with something like Haoma's Nourishing Cleansing Balm. I alternate between the Royal Fern Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence or Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. I've been using that since I became a beauty editor — P50 was like my indoctrination. Then I use Our Self's Daily Renewal Cream, which is full of peptides, or a moisturizer from the Georgian brand Senself called Rich But Light — it has a perfect texture — and the Epara Eye Serum. I use my Ziip tool to do multiple treatments once or twice a week, and before events. My face feels off balance when I don't. I always use SPF; I just finished Zitsticka's Megashade SPF, or if I'm on the go I will spray on Habit's No. 41 Mister. In the shower, I like Bastide Rose Olivier Natural Body Wash, and Soft Services' Buffing Bar. It's very satisfying. I just cut my hair short, so I've been trying styling products in a way I never had before. I like Philip B's Weightless Volumizing Shampoo and Conditioner and Charlotte Mensah's Manketti Oil Pomade. I use Kevyn Aucoin Volume Mascara and RMS Lip2Cheek in Illusive. It is such a cool shade — it makes you look flushed in the winter and more tan in the summer. To finish, I love Hermès lipstick in Rouge Orange. There are a few scents I go back to: Aedes de Venustas's salty, incense-like Copal Azur, and Maison d'Etto's Macanudo, which is more grassy, and Costa Brazil just came out with a fragrance, Aroma, that is really nice.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

COVET THIS

Handbags With an Artistic Point of View

From left: Esha Soni's Arc bag in bottle green and Orb in zebra ponyskin.Esha Soni

By Arden Fanning Andrews

T Contributor

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In the two decades since Esha Soni Seetha began creating accessories for American houses, including Proenza Schouler, for which she still works, the Mumbai, India-born designer has adopted a slow-fashion mind-set. For one thing, she believes that luxury goods should be rare investment pieces that last forever (and are never marked down). Now, she's bringing that ethos to her new namesake line, Esha Soni. Seetha spent three years working with artisans in Italy and New York to develop her debut collection, which was inspired by Jules Olitski's color field paintings and the biomorphic shapes sculpted by Jean Arp, and includes three handbags made with French calf, suede and spelt pony, as well as a sterling silver and gold vermeil necklace that looks like a strand of river stones and was a collaboration with the jeweler Christine McPartland. The Arc tote slants to one side in a way that makes you look twice, while the Slope seems to call for a cocktail party. "I was calling it the bangle bag," Seetha says of its removable bracelet handle. Artful bags will always be at the core of her brand, but she envisions the Esha Soni customer as someone who appreciates all kinds of beauty, and she's currently finalizing a selection of vessels created with the ceramist Devin Fina that will be made to order. "In a perfect world," says Seetha, "every collection is born and exists and never dies." Handbags from $1,950, eshasoni.com.

SEE THIS

Kaleidoscopic Cabinets

An exhibition view of "FreelingWaters: Collection III" on view through June 17 at the Future Perfect, New York.Alexandra Rowley, courtesy of the artists and the Future Perfect

By Will Fenstermaker

T Contributor

The resurgence of Scandinavian interior design trends in recent years has meant a ubiquity of warm woods, clean lines and spare, inoffensive furniture. The polychromatic cabinets made by the Amsterdam-based artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters, six of which comprise the duo's first U.S. solo show at the Future Perfect's West Village outpost, blow this stereotype wide open. Working under the Anglicized moniker FreelingWaters, the pair sourced 18th- and 19th-century pinewood cabinets from antiques dealers and adorned them with striking geometric forms in a vibrant, hallucinatory palette. Frieling, a painter of traditional Dutch folk murals, and Wouters, who is known for his psychedelic calligraphy, have collaborated on art exhibitions, books and men's wear since 2008 but turned their attention to furniture in 2020. "There's a tradition of what I call 'poor man's rococo' in Northern European decorated furniture," says Frieling, referring to how their cabinets expand on a rural Dutch tradition of embellished objects. Each of the works is painted all over, including inside — the interiors present more bursts of pattern, color and, in one instance, ghostly silhouettes of vases and ornate glassware. With their gradients, swerves and moiré, the antiques are recast as curios of contemporary times. Says Wouters, "We're adding a very thin layer that gives new life to these old pieces that might otherwise be discarded." "FreelingWaters: Collection III" is on view through June 17, thefutureperfect.com.

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TRY THIS

Cleaning Products From Diptyque

From left: Diptyque La Droguerie Dishwashing liquid, $40, Dish Brush, $15, and Ceramic for Wool and Delicate Textiles, $45, diptyqueparis.com.Courtesy of the brand

What does clean smell like? According to Diptyque, the French perfumery known for its candles and fragrances, it might just be a stroll through a Mediterranean garden. At least that's the evocation — via notes of lavender, cedar and fig tree — bestowed by the multisurface cleanser in their new six-piece line of cleaning products, called La Droguerie, or "the drugstore." Created with the perfumer Olivier Pescheux, the nose behind scents for Dior and Sisley, as well as several for Diptyque, the collection also includes dish soap, leather and wood conditioner and ceramic ovals to nestle into sweater or lingerie drawers — as well as refills, to cut down on waste. The soap is citrusy, with notes of mandarin and orange blossom, and the lotion polishes those household materials while leaving a woodsy patchouli fragrance behind. As this is Diptyque, there is, of course, a candle in the mix; the company's partner the fragrance manufacturer Givaudan has developed a technology that allows candles not just to mask stale or unpleasant odors but to absorb and replace them: in this case, it's with the scent of mint, basil and crushed tomato leaves. From $15, diptyqueparis.com.

BUY THIS

Hemp Rugs in Checkerboard Patterns

From left: Checkerboard, Rook in rust and sky and Checkerboard, Queen in noir and ocher.Oskar Proctor

By Aileen Kwun

T Contributor

The Londoners Tobias Vernon, the curator of the art and design studio and gallery 8 Holland Street, and Christine Van Der Hurd, the founder of the textile atelier Vanderhurd, are also close collaborators who, for over a decade now, have designed interiors for various clients and traveled the world with a shared eye for antiques. But only relatively recently did they embark on their first joint product release, which came about after they spent a free afternoon on a 2020 work trip in New York seeing a Donald Judd retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art. Checkerboard is a collection of six dhurrie rugs that, with their repeating patterns of squares, were inspired by Judd's manner of transforming space with cubic forms. As Van Der Hurd says, "Squares are very classical and architectural" and call to mind far-reaching eras and styles, from ancient Rome to midcentury modernism. Made by artisans in Northern India using hand-spun natural hemp in warm contrasting color combinations (rust and sky, noir and ocher), the rugs are fittingly named after different chess pieces, and feature differently sized squares — "the larger the squares, the larger the personality," Van Der Hurd says. While the duo are fond of bespoke design, Vernon notes that this collection is intended to be versatile and not so precious. "It's both urban and rustic, historic and contemporary," he says. "And, like chess, it's a bit serious but meant to be playful, as well." From $1,450, 8hollandstreet.com.

WEAR THIS

A Utilitarian Clothing Collaboration

Left: Toogood x Carhartt WIP the Explorer Coat x O.G. Active Jacket in black, $408, the Tinker T-Shirt in white, $95, and the Sculptor Trouser x Double Knee Pant in wax, $228. Right: Toogood x Carhartt WIP the Photographer Jacket x Michigan Jacket in wax, $355, the Tinker T-Shirt in white, $95, and the Farmer Overalls x Bib Overalls in wax, $355, carhartt-wip.com.Lara Angelil

Faye Toogood has worn the same pair of brown men's wear Carhartt dungarees through studio work in her 20s, two pregnancies in her 30s and gardening in her 40s. "Despite spanning nearly 20 years of my life and washing them hundreds of times, they look and feel exactly how they did on the first day I bought them," says the British artist and designer, whose namesake London-based studio with her sister Erica debuts a collaboration with Carhartt's streetwear brand, Work in Progress, this month. For the six-piece, unisex collection, the sisters took Carhartt WIP's archetypal pieces and re-cut them to add the sculptural volume that's a hallmark of Toogood clothing. Offered in three neutral shades, the items maintain an appreciation for the longevity and utility that the brands share. A standout is the button-up coat with a corduroy collar, the result of splicing together Toogood's Photographer jacket with Carhartt WIP's Michigan chore coat. Its deep pockets and oversize shape allow one to move with ease, whether schlepping around the city or on cool summer evenings. Available from June 7 at t-o-o-g-o-o-d.com and carhartt-wip.com, and at select Carhartt WIP stores including 286 Lafayette Street.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Fragrance That's a Multisensory Affair

The flacons for Arpa are handblown by Jochen Holz and layer different colors of glass.François Halard

The perfumer Barnabé Fillion's latest scent, Manta, is meant to evoke the sensation of being underwater. It's the fourth fragrance from Arpa, the brand he launched last year, its offerings recognizable by their colored glass bottles, which are handblown by the artist Jochen Holz. Unlike the line's other scents, however, which were inspired by memorable destinations to which Fillion has traveled — the Dallol region of Ethiopia, a Belgian forest and the hot springs of Kyushu, Japan — Manta came out of a vision he had while in a meditation class. "I had the impression that there was a manta ray flying over me and I felt time going slower, the sounds of the sea being different, the light changing — so many sensorial moments extended to maybe two or three seconds," Fillion recalls.

His Paris laboratory is a temperature-controlled space that sits behind an automatic glass door and is covered with yellow tiles. On rows of shelves, little brown bottles are filled with his favorite raw materials and essential oils — he sources them from all over, with Manta containing elements from Paraguay and Namibia, as well as Grasse, in France. On a counter are samples for three more upcoming scents that he hopes will spark curiosity, sensation and dialogue. "What I like," he says, "is not becoming narrow, narrow. It's more like opening, opening." Read the full story at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misspelled the surname of the co-founder of the restaurant Bleu Bao in Paris. It is Chung, not Cheung.

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