2022年6月8日 星期三

The T List: Father’s Day Gift Guide

Dad jeans, chocolates from a father-daughter duo — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. This week, we've turned it into a Father's Day gift guide with recommendations on what we're buying for ourselves and considering for our paternal figures. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

WEAR THIS

Elevated Dad Jeans

Denim belted pants, a perennial style from the Japanese label Comoli, offer a welcome alternative to traditional dad jeans; $330, tortoiseandco.com.Left: courtesy of Rendez Vous; right: courtesy of Tortoise & Co.

By Diego Hadis

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When choosing a Father's Day gift, it's easy to fall back on certain familiar clothing options: a printed tie that may never be worn, or yet another jersey or cap from his favorite team. But what about a pair of dungarees? Consider the denim belted pants from the cult Japanese label Comoli, which are like dad jeans, only far better: They come in a textured, high-quality indigo twill and feature a soft crease and a very slight taper. I picked up a pair this spring, after a long-unfulfilled obsession with the brand, which is quite hard to find in North America, at Comoli's only U.S. stockist, Tortoise & Co. in Los Angeles. The jeans' loose cut has made them invaluable in helping me to keep pace with the rambunctious toddler in my life who never seems to slow down — and to look pretty put together while doing so.

COVET THIS

Lockets to Fill With Family Photos

Monica Rich Kosann's new men's wear collection includes 12 styles in a variety of materials like 18-karat gold, black steel and sterling silver, starting from $445, monicarichkosann.com.Courtesy of the brand

In the nearly two decades since she launched her namesake jewelry line, the designer and photographer Monica Rich Kosann has found that her vintage-inspired lockets and symbolism-heavy pendants were occasionally purchased by women for the men in their lives, or that men would buy the pieces for themselves. This spring, she introduced her first dedicated men's wear collection. The launch includes 12 styles, such as a classic, minimalist oval locket in gold or silver that holds four photos, and a shield-shaped piece with a black steel chain, a starburst design and sapphire or diamond detailing. "I want a man to wear these pieces and feel protected by love and inspired by their empowering themes," says Kosann. "They are designed to be his daily armor." Shoppers can slide in their own photos or select images for the brand to insert before shipping.

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EAT THIS

Chocolates From a Father-Daughter Duo

An assortment of the chocolates featured in Thierry Atlan's gift boxes, with ganaches and fruit-forward jams made in-house. Boxes from $25, thierry-atlan.com.Alex Staniloff

The French chocolatier Thierry Atlan's résumé was already studded with accomplishments when he moved to the United States nearly a decade ago, including winning the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France chocolatier, marking him as a master of his craft. But after years of teaching, consulting and making confections for others, it took a push from his daughter Julie Atlan — "He's very humble," she says — for him to launch his namesake brand in 2015. The two have worked side by side since, with Julie handling marketing and branding as the chief operating officer and her father behind the housemade jams and ganaches, delicate bonbons and rainbow of macarons made daily with fresh almond flour. Their most recent collaboration, the Thierry Atlan store in SoHo, opened last month. Fittingly, there are plenty of Father's Day presents on offer, such as sleek black boxes that open to reveal rows of striped chocolates and vibrantly colored caramel domes. For Thierry, working with Julie is the "biggest gift" he could be given, he says. "I'm very lucky."

BUY THIS

Molded Leather Objects for the Home

Hunting Season leather tray set, $495, hunting-season.com.Courtesy of the brand

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The Bogotá-based handbag company Hunting Season is known for its classic shapes meticulously hand-crafted by Colombian artisans using traditional skills. This week, the brand extends its home décor offerings with a series focused around wet-molded leather, a technique in which sodden pieces of hide are pulled and adjusted over wooden frames to create a desired shape. The objects thus require no additional stitches or interior supports and, after hours of drying, are buffed to a finish that resembles wood or lacquer. "I feel I am using a piece with a story, a history, a soul," says Hunting Season's founder, Danielle Corona, of the collection, which includes trays, round or rectangular boxes and vases in black, cream and cognac — all of which would be handsome on a night stand or entryway table. "This, for me, is the ultimate luxury."

VISIT THIS

A Trove of Vintage Watches

The Secret Watch Shop inside the Patrick Parrish gallery is open by appointment only at secretwatchshop@gmail.com.Clemens Kois

By David Farber

Hidden behind a translucent wall of Patrick Parrish's design gallery on Lispenard Street in TriBeCa, on a lower level — and away from his noteworthy assemblage of furniture, lighting and art — is a dedicated new space to showcase the founder's other passion: beautiful watches. An avid collector, Parrish is particularly interested in pieces from the 1950s, '60s and '70s, as well as tool watches, which are constructed with special features to assist, say, drivers or pilots (or wearers who can appreciate the detailing of either). Much of his extensive stockpile is now available for purchase, along with some new timepieces he's sourced specifically for this shop-within-a-shop. While a variety of commercial brands such as Rolex, Breitling and Omega are on offer, Parrish also hopes to highlight a number of more obscure items, such as chronographs from Wittnauer Geneve and Jack Heuer. Stopping by to peruse might be a special treat for dad; taking one home, an unforgettable gift.

BUY THIS

A Recycled (or Upcycled) Backpack

From left: Aruna Project backpack, $139, arunaproject.com; Sealand backpack, $325, sealandgear.com; Loewe backpack, $1,300, loewe.com; and Prada backpack, $2,200, prada.com.Courtesy of the brands

By Jameson Montgomery

For the dad who is mindful of his environmental impact and appreciative of multiple pockets, a selection of sustainably made nylon backpacks abounds this summer. Loewe's roll-top style is composed of salvaged preconsumer yarns and trimmed in butterscotch calfskin. The South African line Sealand's own roll-top is ready for adventure, with two exterior water bottle pockets. Each of the brand's bags is made by artisans in Cape Town whose signatures appear on interior name badges (and their bio on the company website). Prada has revamped its instantly recognizable nylon backpack via its Re-Nylon initiative, which uses regenerated yarn produced from waste fibers and from recycled, purified plastic trash collected from oceans and landfill sites. The Cincinnati-based Aruna Project's Rani bags are constructed in a water-repellent, recycled polyester-nylon blend by victims of human trafficking, in the United States and India, who are offered access to transitional housing and trade development programs — providing sustainable employment in addition to a lower carbon footprint.

SEE THIS

A Show Tracing the History of Tiffany & Co.

Archival Tiffany & Co. print advertisements. Left: "Disarming bracelets of diamonds and gold," The New Yorker, September 1969. Right: "Decisions…Decisions," The New Yorker, February 1967.The Tiffany Archives/Tiffany & Co. Left: photo by Henry Leutwyler

A landmark new exhibition about the storied jewelry company Tiffany & Co. provides a little something for every type of visitor. Titled "Vision & Virtuosity" after the brand's core principles, and housed at London's famed Saatchi Gallery, the show is arranged as a seven-chapter journey through Tiffany's history, with sections expounding on the founder, Charles Lewis Tiffany, appreciating the house's most enduring designers (such as Elsa Peretti and Jean Schlumberger) and looking at the company's entanglement with our conceptions of love and commitment. Over 400 archival objects are on display, including vintage advertisements, an original "Breakfast at Tiffany's" film script and the 128.54-carat yellow Tiffany Diamond. An exhibition catalog with a foreword by the late Andre Leon Talley is published by Assouline and, in the gift shop, a selection of everything from skateboards and hoodies to paint markers — the result of collaborations with contemporary artists and brands — rendered in Tiffany blue. "Vision & Virtuosity" is on view June 10 through Aug. 19 at Saatchi Gallery, London, saatchigallery.com.

BUY THIS

Engaging Desktop Objects

Clockwise from top left: Look Optic Liam blue-light reading glasses, $78, plain-goods.com; CB2 Hippodrome travertine oval tray, $199, cb2.com; Tetra patina matchbox case, $180, shop-tetra.com; CB2 Rein saddle leather desk blotter, $129, cb2.com; CB2 Brass USB candle lighter, $34.95, cb2.com.Courtesy of the brands

Even after all this time working remotely, your father's home office might still consist of a table stuck in the corner of a living room or bedroom. There are a few items that can transform such a makeshift desk into something warmer and more appealing, including accessories like a saddle leather desk blotter to define the work area, an attractive brass lighter and matchbox case to light a scented candle or incense and a travertine tray echoing ancient Rome's hippodrome to corral odds and ends. For the hours spent looking at a screen, he may also like some blue-light reading glasses, like these tortoiseshell aviators, which look less Sarah Palin and more Steve McQueen.

Correction: Last week's newsletter rendered the name of a skin-care brand incorrectly. It is Ourself, not Our Self.

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2022年6月3日 星期五

The Daily: When Freedom Isn’t Free

Plus, another portrait of grief from Uvalde.

Welcome to the weekend. This week on The Daily, we continued to cover the drip of details coming out of Uvalde, Texas — what the police knew, what they heard on 911 calls from inside the classroom and why they didn't act sooner. We also heard from parents and students who survived the shooting and are in the midst of processing their grief.

Below, we share additional audio from our reporting in Uvalde and more reporting on the history of reparations in Haiti. But before we get to that, we want to know: Is there a burning question that you'd like answered? Tell us here; we always like to know what's on your mind.

The big idea: When freedom isn't free

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

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Daily life in Cap Haitien, Haiti. Haiti's "double debt" — the ransom and the loan to pay it — helped cement its path into poverty and underdevelopment.Federico Rios for The New York Times

A failed state. An aid trap. A land seemingly cursed by nature and human nature alike.

When the world looks at Haiti, one of the poorest nations on the planet, sympathy for its endless suffering is often overshadowed by scolding and sermonizing about corruption and mismanagement.

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Some know how Haitians overthrew their notoriously brutal French slave masters and declared independence in 1804 — the modern world's first nation born of a slave revolt.

But few know the story of what happened two decades later, when French warships returned to a people who had paid for their freedom with blood, issuing an ultimatum: Pay again, in staggering amounts of cash, or prepare for war.

For generations, the descendants of enslaved people paid the descendants of their former slave masters, with money that could have been used to build schools, roads, clinics or a vibrant economy.

For years, as New York Times journalists have chronicled Haiti's travails, a question has hovered: What if? What if the nation had not been looted by outside powers, foreign banks and its own leaders almost since birth? How much more money might it have had to build a nation?

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For more than a year, a team of Times correspondents scoured long-forgotten documents languishing in archives and libraries on three continents to answer that question, to put a number on what it cost Haitians to be free. You heard about the investigation on today's show. Here is where you can read on to learn more:

From The Daily team: Another portrait of grief

Grief can take many forms after a mass shooting. In Uvalde, where 19 young children and two teachers were shot dead, families are mourning Jackie Cazares and Annabelle Rodriguez, cousins killed in the same classroom.

They are grieving the loss of Irma Garcia, a fourth-grade teacher, as well as her husband, Joe, who died of a heart attack two days after her death. They are missing children who had dreams of becoming marine biologists and veterinarians, girls who hoped to be softball stars.

You heard some of these stories on Wednesday's show. We wanted to share one more story from Alfred Garza III, the father of Amerie Jo, who died in the shooting. Listen to part of his interview with Jack Healy, a national correspondent for The Times.

Modern Love is back for the summer

Brian Rea

It's been a heavy couple of weeks, so if you're looking for a bit of escape and connection, we invite you to listen to the new season of Modern Love. The first episode dropped this week, and it's a reflection on the physical objects left by loved ones who have passed — and how those objects can help us grieve.

The episode is based on Mike Rucker's essay about a beloved couch that he and his partner, John, purchased when they first moved in together. They nicknamed the couch Miss Bee. She epitomized sophistication — with her white denim slipcover, low arms, and wooden legs with brass wheels.

Over the years, Miss Bee became the anchor of Mike and John's home life. After John passed away from a rare and aggressive form of cancer, Mike decided to get rid of Miss Bee. The process of saying goodbye "unlocked a trove of mounting grief within me that wasn't, of course, about the sofa," Mike said.

In an interview with Anna Martin, host of Modern Love, Mike reflected on how grieving someone is not just an emotional process — but it's also physical. It's powerful to literally hold in your hands the everyday objects that belonged to a loved one. When you see those objects, "You don't know when something's going to hit you," Mike said. "It just kind of comes up on you like a surprise."

Check out the season premiere of the podcast, and look out for new episodes every Wednesday for the next 10 weeks. You can follow Modern Love wherever you get your podcasts.

On The Daily this week

Tuesday: Why the police took 78 minutes to stop the gunman at Robb Elementary School.

Wednesday: We hear some of the stories of those who lived through the devastation of the Uvalde massacre.

Thursday: California has one of the lowest rates of gun deaths in the United States. How did the state get that way?

Friday: How did the modern world's most successful slave revolt give birth to a desperately poor nation? A Times investigation explores the cost of Haiti's freedom.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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