2022年7月29日 星期五

The T Wanderlust Hotel Report, Edition No. 1

This week: New stays in Bangkok, Paris and on Lake Kivu, Rwanda.

Welcome to T Wanderlust, a new travel newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Twice a month, we'll recommend global destinations and hotels worth visiting. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every other Friday, along with our T List newsletter each Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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GREECE

A Heritage-Inspired Guesthouse in the Aegean Sea

From left: the garden at the three-suite Pagostas guesthouse on the Greek island of Patmos has an old stone sink and a lemon tree; a Bauhaus chandelier and tapestry by the Swedish artist Elisabet Hasselberg-Olsson hang in the dining room.Yiorgis Kaplanidis

By Yulia Denisyuk

T Contributor

Twenty years ago, when Maria Lemos of the Mouki Mou lifestyle shop in London and her husband, Gregoris Kambouroglou, a retired trauma surgeon, first visited Patmos, an island of roughly 3,000 inhabitants belonging to the Dodecanese archipelago in the Aegean Sea, they instantly fell for it. After recently taking over a 16th-century guesthouse owned by the Monastery of Saint John and transforming it into the three-suite Pagostas, they've fallen for it all over again. "Using simplicity as the guiding principle, we wanted to create a universe that is modern and light yet rooted in our Greek heritage," says Lemos, who grew up between Greece and England. Teaming up with the Greek designer Leda Athanasopoulou, and Mouki Mou's Apostolos Koukidis, Lemos sourced vintage cane furniture from Athens, ceramics from Lesbos and handblown Cretan glass. A lace tablecloth from Maria's own grandmother adorns the walls of one of the rooms. The Athenian landscaper Helli Pangalou, known for her work with the architect Renzo Piano, designed the small garden to be somewhat reminiscent of monastic courtyards, with plantings of jasmine and myrtle. Toiletries will feature a proprietary scent with notes of eucalyptus, cypress and frankincense — a collaboration with Lyn Harris of Perfumer H in London. "We are a home with a soul," says Kambouroglou, "welcoming travelers who want to understand the Patmian way of life." Rooms from $300; pagostas.com.

PORTUGAL

A Vision in Concrete on the Portuguese Coast

A living room at Pateos with furniture by Carl Hansen, Hay and Mattiazzi.Francisco Nogueira

By Gisela Williams

T Contributing Editor

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The Portuguese beach resort town Comporta and the neighboring community of Melides may be where some of Europe's most fashionable personalities — Jacques Grange, Philippe Starck, Christian Louboutin — buy extraordinary vacation homes, but it's still possible to drive through and notice little more than fishing villages and the occasional stork's nest stacked on an electricity pole. That's because exceptional private properties are tucked out of view — or, like Pateos, a new quartet of dramatically angular vacation rentals nestled at the end of a bumpy dirt road, obscured by cork and olive grove, near Melides. Designed by the award-winning Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateus, the interiors of the Tetris-style concrete bunkers are serenely minimal, with smooth stucco walls, furniture upholstered in earth-toned linens and sliding glass doors framing stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. There is little art, save for the floating Danish Flensted mobiles, but most guests will idle away their afternoons lounging by the shared triangular pool. The one-, two- and three-bedroom units were originally intended as guesthouses for friends and family, but the Pateos owners Sofia and Miguel Charters became so involved in the design process that they decided to try their hand at hospitality. Private yoga sessions will be available on-site and one of the area's most pristine beaches, Praia da Aberta Nova (Vigia), is just a 20-minute drive away. Rooms from $560, including breakfast; pateos.pt.

RWANDA

A Culturally Immersive Experience on Lake Kivu

From left: grilled fish from Lake Kivu in Rwanda; the entrance to one of the Capanne Project's thatched-roof huts on Nkombo Island.Sextantio

By Jennifer Flowers

T Contributor

Travelers primed for mountain gorilla treks and Big Five game drives will soon have a compelling new reason to break up the wildlife sightings on hilly, green Nkombo, a roughly 8.5-square-mile island in Lake Kivu near the Congolese border. The Capanne Project launches in August with two thatched-roof huts inspired by exhibits in the Ethnographic Museum of Rwanda in Butare. The rustic accommodations are built in a vernacular style with bamboo, Congolese hardwood and five kinds of straw; arched entrances offer the only natural light, though each domed hut is equipped with modern comforts such as electricity and hot water. Capanne is the third property to have been developed by the conservation-minded hotel group Sextantio, whose other retreats, in Matera and Santo Stefano di Sessanio, have helped preserve the disappearing architectural heritage of rural southern Italy. The founder Daniele Kihlgren wanted to replicate his so-called social-upliftment model in Africa, where he has traveled extensively by motorcycle. Kihlgren funded the construction of the Capanne Project himself, and its proceeds benefit Sextantio Onlus, a nonprofit he founded in 2008 to provide health insurance to area residents with treatable diseases like malaria. Rates are by donation only, and visitors may have chance encounters with local fishermen, basket weavers and others who call Nkombo Island home. "It's a bit experimental," says Kihlgren. "This is not the typical luxury African resort. You truly feel the day-to-day of the place." sextantiorwanda.com.

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INDONESIA

A Neon-Lit Portal in the Balinese Jungle

Studio Jencquel designed the furniture in the jungle panorama suite at Lost Lindenberg in Bali; the ceramics are by Gaya in Ubud.Robert Rieger

By Gisela Williams

T Contributing Editor

Bali, an island of finely wrought temples and sweeping rice terraces, has seen its share of artists, dreamers and spiritual seekers over the years. Playing into that utopian fantasy is Lost Lindenberg, a boutique eight-room inn that just opened near a black lava sand beach on the west coast. Before guests can enter the compound, they must find a door hidden along a 10-foot-high wall created by the German sculptor Tobias Rehberger. Like a Vegas casino, its facade is covered with blazing neon signs that read "24/7" and "Relax Later" — making the Zen-like serenity of the surrounding jungle feel that much more calming when guests pass through. "It's all about the contrast," says Rehberger. Once inside, they're engulfed by ferns, fire-red Heliconia plants and lush banyan and banana trees. The rooms are secreted away in modern treehouse-like structures built of Bangkirai wood and designed by the German architect Alexis Dornier and Venezuela-born Maximilian Jencquel of Studio Jencquel, both expats who have practiced on the island for more than a decade. After a day spent reading by the pool or surfing the nearby Medewi break, travelers can connect over slow-cooked jackfruit rendang and other plant-based Indonesian fare, served around a 22-foot-long communal dining table. Rooms from $350, including breakfast and a surf lesson; thelindenberg.com.

ITALY

A Monastic Escape in Umbria

Radiant purple allium fills the villa garden at Vocabolo Moscatelli in Umbria, Italy.Jakob Trost

By Jennifer Flowers

T Contributor

Less tourist trodden than neighboring Tuscany, the verdant hills of Umbria, Italy, are filled with quiet hamlets; one of the region's newest hotels, Vocabolo Moscatelli, immerses guests in the quotidian rhythms of the countryside. Opening Aug. 1 in a restored 12th-century monastery 45 minutes from Perugia, the 12-room inn was designed in midcentury Italian style by Jacopo Venerosi Pesciolini of Archiloop studio in Florence. The raw materials and furnishings are also mostly Italian: Bathroom tiles come from Cotto Etrusco, 20 minutes away; canopy beds are the work of Lispi in nearby Città della Pieve; and the iron door frames set within the monastery's original arches were fashioned by Eros, a blacksmith less than a mile up the road. Throughout the public spaces and neutral-hued guest rooms (with original wood-beam ceilings), visitors will stumble across the chromatic works of regional artists, including Massimiliano Poggioni and Edoardo Cialfi, selected for the hotel by the Umbrian curator Matteo Pacini. The restaurant's seasonal lunch and dinner menus are centered around vegetables, which the co-owner Frederik Kubierschky hopes will attract locals, too. A former concierge at Park Hyatt Zurich, Kubierschky was born in Germany but raised in Italy; along with his partner, Catharina Lütjens, he takes a personalized approach to hosting. The couple plan to offer pottery classes for guests at nearby Endiadi Ceramic studio and truffle-hunting excursions with their dog, Wilma, a Lagotto Romagnolo. "Smaller is the future of hospitality," says Kubierschky. "People want somebody who listens to their preferences and can lead them to a beautiful experience." Rooms from around $327, including breakfast; vocabolomoscatelli.com.

FRANCE

A Parisian Hotel With Green Ambitions

From left: William Morris floral carpet covers the headboards at Hôtel Rosalie in Paris; Roman-style statues gaze down from the rooftop; the bench in the hotel's breakfast nook is upholstered with a textile from Maison Thevenon.From left: Hervé Goluza; Christophe Coënon (2)

By Monica Mendal

T Contributor

With 18 properties across France, the co-founder of MyHotels group Joris Bruneel is no novice at hospitality. But his latest opening — a partnership with the designer Marion Mailaender, known for her work at Marseille's fashionable Tuba Club — represents a watershed moment. The 60-room Hôtel Rosalie, located in Paris's 13th Arrondissement, is an overhaul of an existing hotel — one that takes a sustainable approach to reclaiming nature's rightful place in the urban landscape. The pair hired landscape architects at Merci Raymond to weave foliage into the renovation — now, plants spill over the rooftop and lichen and moss grow where concrete slabs used to be. "At Rosalie, the frontier between interior and exterior has been left deliberately blurry," says Bruneel. Galvanized steel, typically used in garden furniture, infiltrates the rooms via benches and wall lights designed by Mailaender. The carpet in the guest rooms is made from recycled fishing nets; vintage chairs have been carefully restored; and plastic from the original hotel baths has been reused in terrazzo-like surfaces. Behind a door on the third floor, travelers can unwind in a secret rooftop garden trimmed with hazel trees, purple willows, a 20-foot-tall hop plant and a junked Peugeot 205. By year's end, the founders hope to earn Hôtel Rosalie the prestigious Clef Verte title — the first sustainable-tourism seal in France, which encourages the travel industry to go above and beyond in its efforts to preserve the environment. Rooms from $150; hotel-rosalie.com.

THAILAND

A New Standard in Bangkok

The Balcony Suite at the Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon features floor-to-ceiling windows, a private balcony and a soaking tub overlooking the city.Prachpreaw Studio

By Chris Schalkx

T Contributor

With a pixelated facade that looks like it stopped loading halfway on a wonky dial-up, the Ole Scheeren-designed King Power Mahanakhon building has been a defining feature of Bangkok's skyline since 2016. Now, this off-kilter skyscraper has found a new tenant in the Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon. After making its Thailand debut last year with the Standard Hua Hin, a 1960s-inspired beach retreat three hours to the southwest, the hotel group launched its Asia flagship on the tower's top three and lower 18 floors. Together with the Spanish artist Jaime Hayon, the Standard's design team, led by Verena Haller, infused the space with signature quirks — a Matisse-meets-Memphis mix of scribbled carpets, checkerboard tiling and sculptural rattan lampshades dangling from the lobby ceiling. Rooms range from snug studios to party-size penthouses and follow a similar theme, with curvy sofas and cartoonish side tables. But this is more than just a pretty place to sleep: Destination restaurants include Thailand's first outpost of the Hong Kong dim sum powerhouse Mott 32 and a rose-gold-tinted rooftop spot serving contemporary Mexican fare, created and overseen by the chef Francisco "Paco" Ruano, and the on-site cultural calendar covers everything from D.J. sets to queer tarot card readings. "We don't think of ourselves as a traditional luxury hotel," says Mai Vejjajiva Timblick, the Standard's chief creative and culture officer in Asia. "We hardly think of ourselves as a hotel at all." Rooms from $200; standardhotels.com.

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2022年7月27日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Eye-catching ceramic tiles, swimwear patterned after paintings — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

New Ace Hotels, One on Either Side of the World

Left: the Ace Suite at the hotel's Sydney, Australia, location. Right: the Ace Toronto lobby.Left: Anson Smart. Right: William Jess Laird.

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

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Over 20 years after launching, Ace Hotel Group retains its reputation for catering to creative types with its cool, unconventional design. At one of its newest locations, in Toronto, and more specifically the city's boutique-lined Fashion District, guests are greeted by a lobby with soaring, steel-edged concrete arches, red oak wall paneling and a three-story art installation by A. Howard Sutcliffe that recalls the sparkling waters of nearby Lake Ontario. With interiors designed by Shim-Sutcliffe Architects and Atelier Ace, this and the adjacent bar area are accented with plush midcentury vintage sofas and chairs, and opaque plexiglass and wood lights that were inspired by kites. The 123 guest rooms were conceived as urban cabins, so each one features a deep-set window bench and a vinyl collection curated by the local record label Arts & Crafts. Over in Sydney, Australia, Ace worked with the architecture firm Bates Smart and the interiors firm Flack Studio to renovate — and add eight floors to — the Tyne Building, which was built atop the country's earliest kiln site in 1916 to serve as a dispensary and warehouse for a well-known pharmacist. Now 18 stories tall, it has 257 rooms that, with their textural straw wall paneling and tangerine-colored carpets, feel appealingly retro. Upstairs and down, guests can enjoy inviting dining options, whether the Italian- and Japanese-inspired plates at the forthcoming rooftop restaurant, Kiln, or the vegetable-forward ones at the ground-floor restaurant, Loam. From $290 (Sydney) and $305 (Toronto), acehotel.com.

WEAR THIS

Premium Denim From Ulla Johnson

Two views of Ulla Johnson's Elodie Jean in Danube Dark Indigo, $425, ullajohnson.com.Sebastian Sabal-Bruce/courtesy of Ulla Johnson

By Gage Daughdrill

It's only natural that Ulla Johnson is expanding into premium denim. So many of the brand's pre-existing pieces look great with jeans, and the designer herself has always loved them. Until she designed her own, however, she had trouble finding the kind of extra-special pairs that you wear and love for years. "Everything I've always wanted [in denim] is in this range — impeccable quality of fabrication and craft, and pieces handmade with sustainable washing and finishing," she says. Indeed, each garment in the offering, which is produced in a longstanding Los Angeles factory that uses eco-friendly stones for washing and keeps the use of chemicals and water to a minimum, takes over a day to make. There are four jeans styles, including one with pin tucks down the center front and another with a wide leg, and a jacket. All are designed to be worn year-round, reflecting, says Johnson, "the essential nonseasonal role that denim plays in our lives." But that doesn't mean they're nondescript. Rivets and buttons come, depending on the wash, in either copper, matte gold or polished gold, and all of the jeans feature a hand-hammered ring made in partnership with the Kenyan artisans who work on the brand's jewelry and bags that hangs from a back belt loop. From $495, ullajohnson.com.

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SEE THIS

Artistic Tiles On and Off the Wall

Ceramic tiles featuring glaze patterns created by a CNC printer that was designed and built by Studio GDB.Courtesy of Studio GDB

By Isabel Ling

Gilles de Brock is best known for far out silk-screen poster designs that combine found images, pop culture references and a dizzying palette. In recent years, the Netherlands-based graphic designer and art director, who previously created designs for companies like Nike and Red Bull, has turned his attention to exploring how color and form can be represented in other media, namely clothing, carpets and ceramic tiles. For the latter, de Brock, who is interested in providing designers with access to their own means of production, has spent much of the last three years working with Studio GDB, the design studio he runs with Jaap Giesen, to build a CNC ceramic tile printer that translates his digital designs into the physical world. The resulting pieces are covered in abstract motifs rendered in brilliant green, soft red and cobalt blue glazes that seem to capture movement and light. Since the completion of the printer, Studio GDB has shifted to become a small ceramic tile factory, working with clients to bring its wares to storefronts, home interiors and cafes. More of de Brock's tiles, as well as a selection of his posters and textile works, can be viewed at an exhibition up now at Le Signe National Centre for Graphic Design in Chaumont, France. It's aptly titled "If It Works, It Is Not Just a Temporary Solution." On view until Sept. 23, centrenationaldugraphisme.fr.

EAT THIS

Social Media Food Phenoms Gone Brick and Mortar

Left: Doris Hồ-Kane setting up Bạn Bè's Brooklyn storefront. Right: bánh dẻo, mochi mooncakes, stuffed with pineapple and baby banana jam, for the Vietnamese festival Tết Trung Thu.Left: Shirley Cai. Right: Doris Hồ-Kane

By Aliza Abarbanel

T Contributor

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In the early days of the pandemic, cooks flocked to Instagram to sell homemade goods such as flaky croissants and golden Jamaican beef patties. Some were out of work on account of restaurant closures; others were amateur bakers attempting to pivot into the food industry. Despite the challenges that came with navigating food production and order pickups in cramped apartments, a few gained fervent followings and have since opened brick-and-mortar locations. In May, the French bakery L'Appartement 4F moved on from l'appartement, located in Brooklyn's Cobble Hill neighborhood, that it was based out of and into a small shop a bit north in Brooklyn Heights. Crowds regularly line up outside before it opens in the hopes of snagging sourdough baguettes and raspberry almond croissants. Earlier this month, the pastry chef and archivist Doris Hồ-Kane of Bạn Bè, who found fame through tins bearing Vietnamese-style cookies flavored with coconut pandan and black sesame ube (at one point, the waiting list hit 10,000 people), began selling her coveted treats, as well as new offerings like bánh mì chay and durian ice cream, through the Dutch door of a Carroll Gardens storefront. "I felt a physical representation of our work and art as Vietnamese people was important," says Hồ-Kane, "and person-to-person interactions are so valuable." Over on the West Coast, Jihee Kim of Perilla, known for its seasonal banchan like dandelion green namul, is gearing up to open a lunch spot in Los Angeles's Echo Park this fall. Get ready for loaded rice bowls and hand-rolled gimbap, plus plenty of fresh tomato kimchi to take home.

BUY THIS

Paintings That Lead to More Wearable Designs

Left: Louisa Ballou's "Study for Night Blooming Orchid" (2021). Right: Ballou's Classic Shirt and Sarong in Night Blooming Orchid.Left: courtesy of the artist. Right: Luca Khouri

Though all of the prints in Louisa Ballou's line of moody resort wear are adapted from her paintings, she doesn't actually imagine the finished clothing pieces while working in her studio in Charleston, S.C. "I'd lose the playfulness of it," she says. When she paints, she's thinking more about the color and vibrancy in the landscape around Charleston, her hometown, which she didn't fully appreciate until spending a few years in London while studying fashion at Central Saint Martins — sure enough, her canvases often draw from the region's waterways and barrier islands, or from flora like the night-blooming cereus that have been in South Carolina for generations. She's thinking, too, about how other artists have communicated movement and rhythm in their work, as in Charlotte Rudolph's 1920s-era photographs of dancers, or Brice Marden's layered lines. Only once a painting is digitally scanned does she turn her focus to how, as an abstract print, it might "sit on the body and embrace the body," she says. "I want you to feel painted in the pieces." While the brand, which she started in 2018, has found success in its swim and swim-adjacent offerings (with customers like Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa), the designer wants to expand her ready-to-wear categories and is working on a collection of accessories: an effort, she says, to imagine the Louisa Ballou woman not just on a tropical vacation but at lunch in Paris or dinner in New York. louisaballou.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

An Anniversary in the Cotswolds

Guests congregate for cocktails and aperitivo by a pond dyed black for dramatic effect.Philip James Greengrass Hewitt

It was a perfectly crafted bag that brought together Melissa Morris, the American founder of the London-based leather house Métier, and Silka Rittson-Thomas, an art adviser and creative consultant. About four and a half years ago, Rittson-Thomas purchased a Métier bag and, soon after, went to meet Morris in person at the brand's store in Mayfair. They've been friends ever since. So, when Morris mentioned to Rittson-Thomas that the brand's fifth anniversary was coming up, and that she wanted to throw some kind of summer celebration to mark it, Rittson-Thomas suggested she hold the event in the gardens of Walcot House, her home in the Cotswolds that she shares with her husband, the photographer Hugo Rittson-Thomas. They ended up throwing an intimate dinner in an orchard with a carpet of blooming poppies, and serving branzino al sale, a heritage tomato and basil salad and fava beans with ricotta, lovage and bright nasturtium flowers. Read Flo Wales Bonner's full account of the evening at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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