2022年8月12日 星期五

T Wanderlust: A guide to Shelter Island, where what’s old is new again

The once sleepy isle gets updated hotels, a bagelry and a pop-up Marni shop.

Welcome to T Wanderlust, a new travel newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Twice a month, we'll recommend global destinations and hotels worth visiting. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every other Friday, along with our T List newsletter each Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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Where to Go Now: Shelter Island, N.Y.

A sunset view of the hidden away beach at Crab Creek on New York's Shelter Island.Whitney Lawson

By Devorah Lev-Tov

SITUATED BETWEEN LONG Island's North and South Forks, Shelter Island is a particularly distinct kind of island getaway. About three hours from Manhattan and reachable via a short car ferry from either Greenport or North Haven, the 8,000-acre isle is bordered by the Peconic River to the west and Gardiners Bay to the east. As beach escapes go, it's less fussy than the Hamptons and more laid back than the North Fork. The narrow shoreline is strewn with rocks and shells, while the interior is all woodsy marshlands, with brackish and freshwater ponds. Life here proceeds at a hypnotically slow place; cyclists braking for a family of wild turkeys could pass for a traffic jam.

The traditional home of the Manhanset people, Shelter Island was appropriated by King James I of England and was part of his original grant to the Plymouth Colony in 1620. Once colonized, the land passed through several more hands, acquiring the name Shelter Island around 1652. By the early 1900s, several millionaires had built houses there; more summer homes and cottages cropped up after World War II. In the 2020 census, the island reported roughly 1,600 full-time residents, though that number swells in the summer, as demonstrated by the weekenders crowding André Balazs's chic Sunset Beach hotel and two historic island inns that have recently been modernized.

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While fishing and farming were the dominant industries years ago, today's residents are more likely to be hotel workers, interior designers or restaurateurs. An increasing number of artists are opening studios as well, says the abstract artist Margaret Garrett, 57, who has kept a studio and residency on Shelter Island for 25 years and curated the summer exhibition "Once on This Island" at the Shelter Island Historical Society. The show features the work of Willem de Kooning, Jules Feiffer, Janet Culbertson and other creatives who have sought inspiration here over the years.

Despite a flood of pandemic newcomers, the coastal calm of the island remains largely unspoiled; just head to the secluded beach at Crab Creek or the miles of vivid green trail in Mashomack Preserve to see for yourself. (A new mobile payment system makes it easier than ever for nonresidents to find parking, which was once a pain point for day-trippers.) "Working in a studio surrounded by nature affects me on a cellular level, which in turn affects my work," says Garrett. "The combination of solitude and community is ideal for an artist."

STAY HERE

The Pridwin Hotel & Cottages

Guests can play cornhole on the east lawn of the freshly renovated Pridwin Hotel, a 95-year-old property with 33 Adirondack-inspired rooms in the main house, plus 16 cottages.Courtesy of Cape Resorts

Right in time for its 95th birthday, this Crescent Beach hotel has undergone a down-to-the-studs face-lift, bringing the storied property into the 21st century. Owners and Shelter Island residents since 1961, the Petry family partnered with Cape Resorts (which also runs Baron's Cove in Sag Harbor and several hotels in Cape May, New Jersey) for the renovation and management of the hotel. Cape Resorts' Colleen Bashaw led the redesign, focusing on preserving original details like circa-1927 chandeliers and some of the wicker and rattan furniture while adding bursts of color and pattern via wallpapers from Zina Studios and textiles from Shumacher. The result: 33 Adirondack-inspired rooms with custom-designed oak cannonball beds and scallop-edged side tables in the main house and 16 stand-alone one- and two-room cottages accented with vintage Shelter Island maps, flat-weave sisal rugs and custom green floral throw pillows covered in Schumacher's Exotic Butterfly print. There's also a game room with a Ping-Pong table and vintage Pac Man console and a new fitness center and spa complete with three treatment rooms and wet and dry saunas. caperesorts.com/pridwin.

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The Chequit

The recently renovated guest rooms at the 150-year-old Chequit hotel feature a muted palette and subtly coastal touches.Zack DeZon

Another longstanding property with a fresh look, the many-gabled Chequit dates to 1872 but was bought by the Soloviev Group in 2020 and renovated by New York's Glen & Co. Architecture + Design. The main building now has 19 rooms in a minimalist gray, beige and white palette, with all-new bathrooms, some featuring claw-foot tubs. (Two separate buildings house an additional 16 guest rooms that have yet to be renovated.) Shiplap walls, decorative oar signs and narrow low-ceilinged hallways channel a nautical vibe. A small pool is being installed out back, in time for next summer, but the biggest draw for now are the pair of new restaurants run by beloved Greenport chef Noah Schwartz: Weakfish Sushi & Noodle and the Tavern, with its raw bar and billiards table. Both spots feature outdoor seating on the hotel's wraparound porch and newly added patio. thechequithotel.com.

EAT HERE

Léon 1909

From left: work by the American painter Milton Avery hangs in the dining room at Léon 1909; the rib-eye is grilled over the open hearth at the heart of the restaurant.Whitney Lawson

Valerie Mnuchin has teamed up with her father, Robert Mnuchin, the former co-owner of the Mayflower Inn & Spa in Washington, Connecticut, to open a restaurant named after her paternal grandfather, Léon, a Belgian émigré who spent half of his life on the East End. It's housed in a newly erected farmhouse-style building with exposed wooden trusses, canvas-upholstered banquettes and an open hearth with a blackened steel hood and a soapstone top. The live fire turns out French- and Italian-inspired dishes such as striped bass with spicy peperonata and grilled rib-eye served with herbed crispy potatoes; handmade pastas, locally sourced salads and seafood crudos are also on the menu. leon1909.com.

The Eccentric Bagel

Travelers and locals alike line up for bagels with lox, cream cheese, capers and other fixings at the Eccentric Bagel, a recently opened cafe.Whitney Lawson

Shelter Island survived centuries without a bagel shop, but when this takeout spot with brightly hued picnic tables and '80s-era-MTV-inspired décor (think black-and-white triangle-patterned floors and a mustard-yellow ceiling and wall textured with zigzagging lightning bolts) opened in April, it was instantly mobbed. The brainchild of native New Yorker Darryn Weinstein and his wife, Amy, the cafe sells egg, za'atar and jalapeño-cheddar bagels topped with everything from Sriracha cream cheese and lox to scrambled eggs, bacon, tomato and avocado. eccentricbagel.com.

DO THIS

Little Ram Oyster Co.

Mollusks from Little Ram Oyster Co. are served at a happy hour every Wednesday evening at the Shoals "boatel" food truck in Southold. Sign up for a tour and tasting to get a behind-the-scenes look at the company's new processing facility.Jeremy Garretson

Elizabeth Peeples and Stefanie Bassett, co-owners of Little Ram Oyster Co., farm their bivalves north of Little Ram Island, a peninsula on the eastern side of Shelter Island. In April, they introduced a new processing facility at the Shoals "boatel" in Southold, across the Peconic. Guests can sample Little Ram oysters from the Shoals' on-site food truck or sign up for a tour of the company's floating oyster nurseries, which includes shucking instruction and a tasting. They will see the massive aluminum oyster-tumbling machine in action and learn how various environmental factors impact an oyster's flavor. (Little Rams, for the record, are known for their brisk minerality and medium salinity.) littleramoysters.com.

White Oak Farm & Gardens

From left: the entrance to White Oak Farm & Gardens, a plant center and landscape-design firm with a wine garden and bocce court in the backyard; the shop teamed up with Lenz Winery on the North Fork to make its own rosé.Whitney Lawson

Lavender, hydrangeas and pink gerbera encircle a handful of metal chairs and tables in the storybook backyard of this garden center and landscape-design firm, which began hosting visitors in its wine garden last year. Every weekend through the end of summer, guests can order cheese-and-charcuterie boards from the King Andrew Cheese cart parked on-site, grab a glass of the house rosé (White Oak partnered with the North Fork's Lenz Winery to make its own) and play bocce while listening to live music from local bands including the Bodega Tallboys and Rob Europe. whiteoakfarmandgardens.com.

Ram Design Home and Marni Marine

The gallery wall at Ram Design Home features photography curated by the Robin Rice Gallery, including work by Matt Kinney and Luciana Pampalone. The furniture and throw pillows are by Alfredo Paredes.Chris Mottalini

Half a dozen interior designers have debuted studios and shops on Shelter Island in recent years. At Ram Design Home, founder Cristina Peffer showcases ceramics by Lily Hoffman, photography from the Robin Rice Gallery and minimalist furniture from Alfredo Paredes, the former chief creative officer of Ralph Lauren. And now, for the second summer in a row, the Sunset Beach hotel is hosting a pop-up by the Italian fashion label Marni, filled with boldly patterned clothing, wide-strapped platform leather sandals and chunky jewelry, along with the Marni Market collection of colorful handbags and baskets handwoven by Colombian artisans. ramdesignhome.com; marni.com.

The Marni Marine pop-up at the Sunset Beach hotel sells handwoven baskets and bags alongside striking graphic furniture.Courtesy of Marni
BUY THIS
What to bring home, as suggested by locals we like
Whitney Lawson

Matte Pedestal Bowl by Megan Hergrueter

"The handmade nature of these pedestal bowls, available in the Havens Store at the Shelter Island Historical Society, adds some nice texture to a kitchen," says Sarah Zames, the founder of the interior architecture and design firm General Assembly and a regular on Shelter Island. "Having it a bit higher also differentiates it from a typical fruit bowl." From $60; shelterislandhistorical.org/havensstore.html.

Lilielle Pillow, Made of Wool, Linen and Hemp, From Heiberg Cummings's the Atelier

"These are just the right materials for cuddling up, and the colors are very organic," says Marie Eiffel, a French transplant and owner of Shelter Island retail stalwarts Marie Eiffel Market and Marie Eiffel Fashion, both on North Ferry Road. "You can throw them on the floor, pile them up and lay down on them or put them on a chair, sofa or bed — they just look good with everything." $425; hcd3.com.

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2022年8月10日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A hot dog candle, a Cotswolds retreat — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

A Sustainable Getaway in the Cotswolds

The high ceilings of a suite at the Fox in the English Cotswolds display its original 19th-century beams. The handmade wooden four-poster bed was specially commissioned by artisans in Gloucestershire.Martin Morrell

By Tilly Macalister-Smith

T Contributor

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Last month, the English Cotswolds welcomed another pub hotel, the Fox, which, fittingly, is the sister property of the Wild Rabbit, a traditional country inn in Kingham. Both are owned by the Bamford family, which also operates nearby Daylesford Organic Farm and the accompanying groceries and cafe outposts across London. The new six-room spot is set in a 19th-century building nestled on the bend of the high street in Lower Oddington, a postcard-pretty parish three miles northwest of Kingham and a mile west of the farm. For its renovation, Carole Bamford adopted a "zero to landfill" policy, meaning she partnered with suppliers that recycle any waste produced by their work, and the hotel itself will run entirely on renewable energy. Local sheep, including her own Lleyn flock, provided wool used for insulation, and for the mattresses. She enlisted local craftspeople from Gloucestershire to create the four-poster beds and comfy armchairs, and rounded things out with antiques sourced from across England and Wales. Finally, there is a rooftop garden that's been planted with British wildflowers and annuals to create an abundant paradise for bees and butterflies — and with herbs for the chef Alan Gleeson's pub menu, which includes wood-roasted violet artichokes with salsa verde and Aperol spritz jelly with raspberries. Guests at the Fox, like those at the Wild Rabbit, can book appointments at the famed Bamford Wellness Spa, which is housed in a white barn at Daylesford and offers treatments and wellness classes. And who wouldn't want to finish a day spent ambling around the countryside with a massage? Rooms from around $275 (breakfast included), thefoxatoddington.com.

BUY THIS

Laundry Detergent That's Easy on the Skin

Left: Dirty Labs detergent in Free & Clear, $14, dirtylabs.com. Right: Laverée detergent in Wind, $45, and stain remover, $36, laveree.com.Courtesy of the brands

After the Seoul-based entrepreneur and fashion designer Jong Min Baek had her first child in 2019, she searched extensively for a detergent gentle enough for newborns. Whatever she found, however, left her doing separate loads, as there wasn't anything that was mild enough for her daughter yet effective enough for her own clothes. So she started developing her own detergent, Laverée ($9-$45), which she launched this spring after over a year of research. It's free of toxic dyes, endocrine disrupters and skin-irritating enzymes, and is packaged in recycled-plastic bottles. There's an unscented version for those also looking to avoid fragrance. Otherwise, try the Forest formula, which was inspired by Seattle, where Laverée is made, and has notes of cypress. For another gentle but capable option, try the Laundress's new Summer Fridays offering ($25), which is dermatologist tested and free of petroleum, phthalates and parabens — and smells of oak moss, sweet water, jasmine and warm ambergris. Finally, Dirty Labs, an E.W.G.-certified clean brand founded by the chemist Dr. Pete He and the entrepreneur David Watkins, produces an eco-friendly detergent ($14-$22) that uses Phytolase, the brand's proprietary 5-in-1 enzyme-driven cleaning technology, and not toxic petroleum-based surfactants. Starting this month, it will be available at Whole Foods.

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EAT THIS

A Popular Paris Restaurant Comes to Hollywood

Left: seating at the new Mr. T in Los Angeles. Right: Chip and Dip with crème fraîche, herbs, pickle daikon and trout roe.Innis Casey

Next week, the popular Paris restaurant Mr. T, which is named after its head chef, Tsuyoshi Miyazaki, who applies classic French techniques to dishes inspired by street food found in cities all over the world, will open a second location on Sycamore Avenue in Hollywood. To design the new space, which is larger than the original but retains the intimate feel of a bistro, the restaurateur and owner Guillaume Guedj worked alongside the architect Richard Altuna, who died last year before the project was complete. "We wanted to utilize as many natural materials as possible," Guedj says. Hence the raw stones like white quartz used on the bar and counters, and the furnishings, sourced from artisans outside Mexico City, made largely of tzalam wood. As in Paris, music — and more specifically a soundtrack consisting of '90s hip-hop and R&B — will help set the tone. Cocktails include the Can't Knock the Hustle (Japanese whiskey and amaro flecked with smoked cinnamon) and the Mr. T (vodka, blackberry and mint with St.-Germain foam), while the food menu features roast lamb kebab; Comté mac and cheese with mimolette flambé; and koshihikari rice and confit egg yolk with sea urchin crème. Go soon to enjoy summery specials, such as a Caprese salad incorporating heirloom tomatoes and fresh peaches, made with produce sourced from a combination of local purveyors and the on-site herb garden. instagram.com/mrtlarestaurant.

TRY THIS

Classic Liquors With Unexpected Ingredients

Voatka, a spirit made from organic oats (left), and Matchbook Distilling's agave alternative made from sunchokes (right).Left: Courtesy of Voatka. Right: David Benthal

By Aliza Abarbanel

T Contributor

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Across the country, speed rails and home bar carts are filling up with bottles from brands using unexpected ingredients to make classic spirits new again. For a sustainable alternative to mezcal, which relies on slow-growing agave plants in high demand, the Greenport, N. Y.-based Matchbook Distilling offers Late Embers Sunchoke + Honey, a smoky spirit derived from locally grown and then fermented roasted sunchokes, which are so hearty they're borderline invasive. Good Vodka was launched in 2015 by Tristan Willey and Mark Byrne, who met at Brooklyn's Kings County Distillery. It's made not from the sugar from potatoes or grapes, as is often typical, but from that of coffee cherry pulp, 15 million tons of which are discarded during the roasting process each year worldwide. Using would-be discarded fruit reduces water waste and carbon emissions, while providing another revenue stream for Colombian coffee farmers. "There's a bit of a peppery note that comes through on the back of the profile, which is reminiscent of the flavor of ripe coffee fruit, if you were to bite into it," says Byrne. Another new vodka is on the horizon thanks to Voatka, a soon-to-launch brand and spirit from the founder Rebecca Robertson that's made from organic oats. "Vodka is so clean, and using oats gives it a layer of warmth with a deeper base of creamy flavor," says Robertson, who's partnered with Matchbook Distilling for production. Consider it a kind of alt-alt-milk.

LIGHT THIS

Summer Essentials in Candle Form

Candles from the artist Janie Korn's fourth collection with Fort Makers.Alistair Matthews

By Arden Fanning Andrews

T Contributor

Janie Korn started out as a ceramist but traded clay for wax a half-decade ago in hopes of prompting more interaction between her work and the viewer. Now, she makes sculptural candles that often reference pop culture and, because of the very nature of candles, are a way to mark the passing of time. That's especially true of her latest collection, "Have a Nice Summer," which launches today. It was commissioned by the New York-based, artist-led design studio Fort Makers and perfectly captures the carefree, languid spirit of August, along with the accompanying blues brought on by the knowledge that the season will soon come to a close. "You can feel it's a temporal experience — we have X amount of summer left," says Korn, who modeled the offering's 10 pieces after a bottle of Water Babies sunscreen, a hot dog squiggled with mustard, a cassette-ready boom box, a "Jaws" (1975) movie poster and other nostalgic staples. A neon tennis ball balances on a racket, and a family of Bic lighters in various colors and sizes promise to burn as if by flames of their own making. For her part, Korn, who lives in Manhattan, will spend the next few weeks not at the beach, but upstate in Hudson, N.Y., where she's renting a place and plans on rereading fairy tales, which are the focus of a forthcoming collection. Perhaps, though, come nightfall, she'll work by candlelight. From $125, fortmakers.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

A Painter's Home That Celebrates Hawaii

At Jean Charlot's home in Honolulu, a view from the primary bedroom into the living room with his "Tropical Foliage" (1957) fresco.Mariko Reed

More than four decades after his death in 1979, the French American artist Jean Charlot is still regarded as both a generational talent and an outsider turned exemplary steward of the deep Hawaiian ideology that connects land, people and spirituality in contemporary art. His two-story, 2,856-square-foot home, built on a 10,310-square-foot lot near Kahala Beach, is reflective of both his artistic sensibilities and his appreciation for the islands. Charlot House is constructed primarily from redwood and concrete bricks, with two walls covered in dried hāpu'u, an endemic fern said to soothe muscles in Hawaiian plant-based medicine. A cantilevered wood table extends from the dining room through a wall of sliding glass windows onto one of three lanais, creating 558 square feet of patio space that brings the outdoors inside. So, too, does the 12-foot-square fresco of heavy, yawning leaves of banana, papaya, bird of paradise and red and green ti that Charlot painted with his friend the Oahu-born muralist Juliette May Fraser on one of the living room's double-height walls while the house was still under construction. Read the full story at tmagazine.com, along with more stories from our fall Women's Fashion issue, and follow us on Instagram.

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