2022年6月22日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A Zara housewares line, bungalows near a national park — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

Midcentury Modern Bungalows Near Joshua Tree National Park

With floor-to-ceiling glass panels, each bungalow offers expansive views of the desert, where wild jojoba and ocotillo trees flourish. Yoshihiro Makino

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

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On the edge of Joshua Tree National Park, where a forest of wild paloverde trees meets towering granite boulders, the Joshua Tree Retreat Center welcomes the first boutique property in Yucca Valley, a town known for its eclectic offering of renovated motels and private-home rentals. The 14 suites, now known as the Bungalows, were designed and constructed in 1960 by the architect Harold Zook as accommodations for the site's on-campus teachers. Located in the northwest corner of the center's more than 130 acres of desert, the bungalows still feature their original wood exteriors, while the interiors seem sun-bleached, with earthy jute and sea grass rugs, woven cane-backed chairs and intricate millwork to evoke a bare-sand feel. The spaces were redeveloped by the hospitality company Homestead Modern and restored in collaboration with the consulting designer Brad Dunning; as a nod to the work of the Swiss architect Albert Frey, the rooms are accented with yellow textiles the color of Encelia flowers, a hue popularized by Frey in his modernist structures in nearby Palm Springs. Floor-to-ceiling glass panels and sleek concrete floors blend with expansive outdoor patios and the views beyond. During a stay, guests can cook on the site's communal grills or dine at the retreat center's vegetarian cafe. Rooms from $250, retreat.homesteadmodern.com.

COVET THIS

Vincent Van Duysen's Collaboration With Zara

Furniture from the Zara Home + by Vincent Van Duysen collection, including Coffee Table 01 in oak; Side Table 01 in Campaspero stone; Sofa 01 in natural linen; Stool 02 in oak and leather; Coffee Table 01 in oak; Side Table 02 in oak; and Love Seat 01 in ecru bouclé.François Halard

By Tilly Macalister-Smith

T Contributor

On the occasion of his 60th birthday this spring, the Belgian architect and designer Vincent Van Duysen was given an opportunity to look back. He dove into his archives both professional — over the three decades of his career, he's been known for a desaturated, soft-on-the-senses aesthetic originally born as a rejection of the brash excess of the '80s — and personal, via an analysis of his own living rooms, for an ongoing collaboration that begins this month with the fashion giant Zara's housewares line. "I wanted to revisit my 'wardrobe' of furniture pieces," he says of the 19 products, which include furniture, lamps, rugs and smaller decorative items. Quality materials, such as solid French oak, sanded stone from Galicia, Spain (where Zara's headquarters are located), and pure cottons and linens were paramount, but as a self-proclaimed "democrat in heart and soul," Van Duysen was drawn to the company's ethos of affordable fashion for everyone; the pieces were designed to work with the scale and style of a city apartment or country house. "My furniture pieces can find a place in any kind of living room for any kind of person anywhere in the world," he says. From $299, beginning June 30, zarahome.com.

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SMELL THIS

The First Fragrance From Vintner's Daughter

Understory from Vintner's Daughter is a unisex, hand-blended perfume oil crafted from whole plants in small batches.Ashley Batz

By Kerstin Czarra

T Contributor

Growing up, April Gargiulo's home was notably void of artificial fragrances, lest they interfere with the grasp of a wine's aroma. (Her family now owns Gargiulo Vineyards in the Napa Valley.) "I have a relationship with scent but in the natural world," she says. When she launched her sustainable skin-care line Vintner's Daughter in 2013, though, a face oil gained a devoted following as much for its lush botanical smell as for its formula, crafted from 22 nutritive plants. The brand's first limited-edition perfume oil, Understory, arrives this week and refers to the medley of flora along the forest floor, with notes of conifer evergreens, bay and moss blended with hints of jasmine, violet leaf and soft petals. The bouquet is designed to be unobtrusive. "Understory is not about an announcement to others," Gargiulo says, "but rather a celebratory moment with oneself and nature." The slim rollerball applicator comes with a wearable pouch made from vegan leather, so transportation to a magical woodland is only ever a quick dab away. $245, vintnersdaughter.com.

EAT THIS

A Surrealist Sushi Restaurant in Chinatown

At Time, the brown paper lampshades often glimpsed on Parisian bistro walls are literally turned on their heads.Nick Poe

By Aliza Abarbanel

T Contributor

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When Nick Poe began drawing up plans for Time, his new 25-seat restaurant in Manhattan's Chinatown, he wanted the design to be unexpected. "There's almost a formula for how a sushi restaurant is supposed to look: maple wood, wabi-sabi," says the architectural designer and co-owner, known for creating airy spaces such as Sky Ting yoga studios and Lee's Private Dining Room. Instead, he looked to the Parisian travels of Japanese surrealist artists like Iwata Nakayama and Kansuke Yamamoto in the 1920s; the result presents trademarks of French bistros and Tokyo sushi bars alike, from chairs reupholstered with vintage Persian carpets to gleaming custom mirrors bearing the kanji for "sashimi" and "alcoholic beverages." The chef Yukio Fukaya, most recently at Nare in Midtown, crafts seasonal omakase for eight diners seated at an oak bar crowned with gleaming stainless steel. Next to him, two additional chefs turn out spicy sesame cucumber salad and chutoro with soy-cured egg yolks and fragrant nori rice for the packed downtown crowd. As the sun sets, brown paper lamps inverted on the original tin ceiling illuminate the hand-painted fresco of an architectural model that wraps around the walls, drawing the eye toward the street, where matcha martinis and tuna hand rolls are dispensed from a side window overlooking the Manhattan Bridge. 105 Canal Street, timeoncanal.com.

VISIT THIS

A Haven of Eye-Popping Home Items

Left: A charcoal drawing titled "El Esclavo" by J Pestonit (1964) hangs above a metal star-shaped chair acquired from Bruises Gallery in Montreal. Right: A fibreglass prototype of the Splash Lounge Chair, attributed to Michael Wendel.  Maureen M. Evans

By Ellie Pithers

The scheme for one of Hollie Bowden's tastefully muted projects often begins with a single theatrical piece. A recently completed apartment in West London's Notting Hill was entirely inspired, for example, by a pale pink 18th-century mottled marble fireplace sourced in Belgium. "I've called myself a minimal maximalist because I love bare space with an object that's so special," says the 38-year-old interior designer, who's decorated homes for the singer FKA Twigs and a store for the British luxury brand Tanner Krolle. But after 20 years spent amassing the sorts of memorable one-offs that might be just the thing for clients, friends or herself (she is renovating her family's home in Finsbury Park in north London), she was running out of space; hence the opening of the Gallery, an appointment-only shop next door to her studio in Shoreditch. On offer are design classics, such as a 1970s steel-and-leather lounger by Vittorio Introini for Saporiti and an appealingly weathered De Sede DS600 wiggly sofa, alongside more obscure treasures, including a ceramic walrus acquired in Mexico City. Then there's the solid "Ebb" bedside table — Bowden's first venture into housewares design and a collaboration with her partner, Byron Pritchard, a furniture designer who handcrafts the tables in walnut in his studio on the nearby Broadway Market. What you won't find? Anything Instagram famous. As Bowden puts it, "I've always wanted it to be a subtle offering — a piece that says, 'If you know, you know.'" Email gallery@holliebowden.com to make a one-hour appointment.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

The 25 Most Significant New York City Novels From the Last 100 Years

An outline of the Empire State Building in February 1943, during a mandated wartime dimout in New York City.Andreas Feininger/the Life Picture Collection/Shutterstock

What to say about New York? As both a place and an idea, it's too big to be summed up or even fully known. But that hasn't stopped countless writers from trying, often via fiction. In fact, the New York City novel has become its own literary category, one that T explored for its latest project, which compiles what we've deemed to be the 25 most significant New York novels published between 1921 and 2021. To make the list, we assembled a panel of judges — the novelists Katie Kitamura and Michael Cunningham, the bookseller Miriam Chotiner-Gardner (who works at the quintessential New York bookstore Three Lives & Company, in Manhattan's Greenwich Village), the playwright and television writer Branden Jacobs-Jenkins and the journalist Mark Harris. Each of them nominated 10 or so books he or she felt strongly about. Then, on a Friday in February, they met up to debate which ones should be included in the final version, where you'll find such wide-ranging titles as Chang-rae Lee's "Native Speaker" (1995), Ann Petry's "The Street" (1946), Louise Fitzhugh's "Harriet the Spy" (1964) and Michael Chabon's "The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay" (2000). See the rest of the group's selections at tmagazine.com, and R.S.V.P. to the next T Book Club event — featuring one of the titles on this list — here.

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2022年6月17日 星期五

The Daily: When Satellites Capture a Crisis

How digital data is filling the gaps in war coverage.

Welcome to the weekend. This week on the show, we explored how even though troves of data are coming out of Ukraine, getting to the truth is hard.

"Everyone always thinks that with technological advances that we get a better understanding of war," Julian E. Barnes, a national security reporter for The New York Times, said this week. "But it's a bit of an illusion. The fog of war still exists. We still have imperfect information."

To explore this idea in greater depth, we wanted to look at the gaps in information coming out of another, less-covered war. In this newsletter, we revisit the latest updates on the war in Tigray, in northern Ethiopia, since we last covered the conflict on the show.

The big idea: How satellite imagery is helping tell the story of war

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week on gaps in intelligence gathering in conflict zones.

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Rebels surveyed the wreckage of a military plane downed by their forces south of Mekelle, the capital of the Tigray region of northern Ethiopia, in June 2021.Finbarr O'Reilly for The New York Times

It was just after midnight in March 2021, and Emnet Negash was worried about home.

As a doctoral student in Belgium, he was far from his family in Tigray, in northern Ethiopia, where a civil war was raging in the dark — cut off from the rest of the world by a strict communications blackout imposed by the government. He wondered if his family was safe, and if his hometown, Adigrat, was still standing.

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So he opened Google Maps. Zooming in, he saw debris scattered across town and buildings partially or completely missing, the altered aerial outlines of what once was a hotel, a public library, an office for humanitarian assistance. He feared it was evidence of fire and destruction.

"I saw what appeared to be the total collapse of some buildings," he said. "It was unimaginable. I couldn't work for a couple of days."

He later published his findings with his geography colleagues at the University of Ghent, using satellite imagery to document the ruinous effects of the war. They are one of the few teams in the world dedicated to gathering and publishing remote sensing data about the conflict — and its impact on the land, cities and people living in northern Ethiopia. Their work, along with citizen reporting and dispatches from journalists, has formed a patchwork sense of what is happening in the region — one that is incomplete.

Below, we share what we know about the latest updates on the war from their work and from Times journalists who have reported from the front lines of the conflict.

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Why is Ethiopia still at war with itself?

As a refresher: Ethiopia is experiencing a brutal civil war. The deadly conflict in the nation, Africa's second most populous, has pitted the national military against rebels in the northern region of Tigray.

The Tigray make up about 6 percent of Ethiopia's 110 million people, and they were the arbiters of power and money in the country from 1991, when they helped dismantle a military dictatorship, until 2018, when anti-government protests catapulted Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed to power.

In November 2020, Abiy, winner of the 2019 Nobel Peace Prize, launched a surprise military offensive in Tigray — one that an internal U.S. government report described as a systematic campaign of ethnic cleansing. The ensuing conflict has left thousands dead, forced more than two million people from their homes and pushed parts of the country into famine-like conditions.

In the time since, the tide of the civil war has fluctuated wildly. The government teetered in early November 2021 when fighters from Tigray surged south toward the capital, Addis Ababa, forcing Abiy to declare a state of emergency. Foreigners fled the country, and the government detained thousands of civilians from the Tigrayan ethnic group.

How satellites are filling gaps in information

Throughout the war, accessing accurate information about the conflict has been difficult at best, as a communications blackout has left most of the Tigray region without access to cell service or internet access.

The blockade has made it challenging for researchers to verify the destruction they are seeing on satellite imagery — or to determine who specifically was responsible for it.

"All we have is satellites," Negash said. "What we really need is reporting on the ground."

The government has tried to limit critical coverage of the conflict with a campaign of arrests, intimidation and obstruction targeting foreign journalists. While two Times journalists, Declan Walsh and Finnbar O'Reilly, gained access to Tigray and were able to independently verify reports leaking out of the region, few foreign journalists have made it into the country — or have made it out without being detained.

The threats extend to civilians, limiting access to videos or images taken on cellphones.

"I have tried to ask my colleagues at Mekelle University if they would travel around Tigray and verify what we are seeing from remote sensing," Jan Nyssen, a professor of geography at Ghent University, said. (Mekelle is the capital of the region that Ethiopian forces left last summer.) "But it is too dangerous, they cannot leave their families. It's not certain they would return."

Aid worker access has been limited at times to a single, dangerous road into the region. Earlier this year, three employees of Doctors Without Borders were killed while working in the region, underscoring the threats to providing needed assistance in a region facing widespread food insecurity and starvation.

It's a scale of need the team at Ghent University can only guess at, using their satellite imagery to deduce the scale of damage to irrigation infrastructure and the visibly altered landscape where crops once grew.

In the meantime, they scour social media and wait for patchy calls from the region for clues of how their friends and families are doing.

"People will go to the mountain tops on the border to get mobile access," Nyssen said. "It's dangerous, and it often drops out after only a couple words."

Still, he said, Tigrayans "will travel, hike and call just to say, 'We are dying.'"

The season finale of Still Processing

Reunited at last, J Wortham joins Wesley Morris in the studio for the last episode of the season. They reflect on the challenges of being apart for almost a year while J was on book leave.

How did J deal with the inevitable stretches of loneliness? How do you re-enter your home and your relationships after so much time away?

J and Wesley discuss how they managed to stay connected over the past year, and the role of community and intimacy in moments of tragedy.

On The Daily this week

Monday: How information gaps could have serious implications for the war in Ukraine.

Tuesday: An interview with Senator Chris Murphy on the bipartisan gun safety deal.

Wednesday: Can the Federal Reserve and the White House tamp down inflation without sending the U.S. economy into a recession?

Thursday: What are the origins and symptoms of monkeypox — and what is America's plan to try to contain the outbreak?

Friday: What the Jan. 6 hearings have revealed so far.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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