2022年7月27日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

Eye-catching ceramic tiles, swimwear patterned after paintings — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

VISIT THIS

New Ace Hotels, One on Either Side of the World

Left: the Ace Suite at the hotel's Sydney, Australia, location. Right: the Ace Toronto lobby.Left: Anson Smart. Right: William Jess Laird.

By Michaela Trimble

T Contributor

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Over 20 years after launching, Ace Hotel Group retains its reputation for catering to creative types with its cool, unconventional design. At one of its newest locations, in Toronto, and more specifically the city's boutique-lined Fashion District, guests are greeted by a lobby with soaring, steel-edged concrete arches, red oak wall paneling and a three-story art installation by A. Howard Sutcliffe that recalls the sparkling waters of nearby Lake Ontario. With interiors designed by Shim-Sutcliffe Architects and Atelier Ace, this and the adjacent bar area are accented with plush midcentury vintage sofas and chairs, and opaque plexiglass and wood lights that were inspired by kites. The 123 guest rooms were conceived as urban cabins, so each one features a deep-set window bench and a vinyl collection curated by the local record label Arts & Crafts. Over in Sydney, Australia, Ace worked with the architecture firm Bates Smart and the interiors firm Flack Studio to renovate — and add eight floors to — the Tyne Building, which was built atop the country's earliest kiln site in 1916 to serve as a dispensary and warehouse for a well-known pharmacist. Now 18 stories tall, it has 257 rooms that, with their textural straw wall paneling and tangerine-colored carpets, feel appealingly retro. Upstairs and down, guests can enjoy inviting dining options, whether the Italian- and Japanese-inspired plates at the forthcoming rooftop restaurant, Kiln, or the vegetable-forward ones at the ground-floor restaurant, Loam. From $290 (Sydney) and $305 (Toronto), acehotel.com.

WEAR THIS

Premium Denim From Ulla Johnson

Two views of Ulla Johnson's Elodie Jean in Danube Dark Indigo, $425, ullajohnson.com.Sebastian Sabal-Bruce/courtesy of Ulla Johnson

By Gage Daughdrill

It's only natural that Ulla Johnson is expanding into premium denim. So many of the brand's pre-existing pieces look great with jeans, and the designer herself has always loved them. Until she designed her own, however, she had trouble finding the kind of extra-special pairs that you wear and love for years. "Everything I've always wanted [in denim] is in this range — impeccable quality of fabrication and craft, and pieces handmade with sustainable washing and finishing," she says. Indeed, each garment in the offering, which is produced in a longstanding Los Angeles factory that uses eco-friendly stones for washing and keeps the use of chemicals and water to a minimum, takes over a day to make. There are four jeans styles, including one with pin tucks down the center front and another with a wide leg, and a jacket. All are designed to be worn year-round, reflecting, says Johnson, "the essential nonseasonal role that denim plays in our lives." But that doesn't mean they're nondescript. Rivets and buttons come, depending on the wash, in either copper, matte gold or polished gold, and all of the jeans feature a hand-hammered ring made in partnership with the Kenyan artisans who work on the brand's jewelry and bags that hangs from a back belt loop. From $495, ullajohnson.com.

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SEE THIS

Artistic Tiles On and Off the Wall

Ceramic tiles featuring glaze patterns created by a CNC printer that was designed and built by Studio GDB.Courtesy of Studio GDB

By Isabel Ling

Gilles de Brock is best known for far out silk-screen poster designs that combine found images, pop culture references and a dizzying palette. In recent years, the Netherlands-based graphic designer and art director, who previously created designs for companies like Nike and Red Bull, has turned his attention to exploring how color and form can be represented in other media, namely clothing, carpets and ceramic tiles. For the latter, de Brock, who is interested in providing designers with access to their own means of production, has spent much of the last three years working with Studio GDB, the design studio he runs with Jaap Giesen, to build a CNC ceramic tile printer that translates his digital designs into the physical world. The resulting pieces are covered in abstract motifs rendered in brilliant green, soft red and cobalt blue glazes that seem to capture movement and light. Since the completion of the printer, Studio GDB has shifted to become a small ceramic tile factory, working with clients to bring its wares to storefronts, home interiors and cafes. More of de Brock's tiles, as well as a selection of his posters and textile works, can be viewed at an exhibition up now at Le Signe National Centre for Graphic Design in Chaumont, France. It's aptly titled "If It Works, It Is Not Just a Temporary Solution." On view until Sept. 23, centrenationaldugraphisme.fr.

EAT THIS

Social Media Food Phenoms Gone Brick and Mortar

Left: Doris Hồ-Kane setting up Bạn Bè's Brooklyn storefront. Right: bánh dẻo, mochi mooncakes, stuffed with pineapple and baby banana jam, for the Vietnamese festival Tết Trung Thu.Left: Shirley Cai. Right: Doris Hồ-Kane

By Aliza Abarbanel

T Contributor

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In the early days of the pandemic, cooks flocked to Instagram to sell homemade goods such as flaky croissants and golden Jamaican beef patties. Some were out of work on account of restaurant closures; others were amateur bakers attempting to pivot into the food industry. Despite the challenges that came with navigating food production and order pickups in cramped apartments, a few gained fervent followings and have since opened brick-and-mortar locations. In May, the French bakery L'Appartement 4F moved on from l'appartement, located in Brooklyn's Cobble Hill neighborhood, that it was based out of and into a small shop a bit north in Brooklyn Heights. Crowds regularly line up outside before it opens in the hopes of snagging sourdough baguettes and raspberry almond croissants. Earlier this month, the pastry chef and archivist Doris Hồ-Kane of Bạn Bè, who found fame through tins bearing Vietnamese-style cookies flavored with coconut pandan and black sesame ube (at one point, the waiting list hit 10,000 people), began selling her coveted treats, as well as new offerings like bánh mì chay and durian ice cream, through the Dutch door of a Carroll Gardens storefront. "I felt a physical representation of our work and art as Vietnamese people was important," says Hồ-Kane, "and person-to-person interactions are so valuable." Over on the West Coast, Jihee Kim of Perilla, known for its seasonal banchan like dandelion green namul, is gearing up to open a lunch spot in Los Angeles's Echo Park this fall. Get ready for loaded rice bowls and hand-rolled gimbap, plus plenty of fresh tomato kimchi to take home.

BUY THIS

Paintings That Lead to More Wearable Designs

Left: Louisa Ballou's "Study for Night Blooming Orchid" (2021). Right: Ballou's Classic Shirt and Sarong in Night Blooming Orchid.Left: courtesy of the artist. Right: Luca Khouri

Though all of the prints in Louisa Ballou's line of moody resort wear are adapted from her paintings, she doesn't actually imagine the finished clothing pieces while working in her studio in Charleston, S.C. "I'd lose the playfulness of it," she says. When she paints, she's thinking more about the color and vibrancy in the landscape around Charleston, her hometown, which she didn't fully appreciate until spending a few years in London while studying fashion at Central Saint Martins — sure enough, her canvases often draw from the region's waterways and barrier islands, or from flora like the night-blooming cereus that have been in South Carolina for generations. She's thinking, too, about how other artists have communicated movement and rhythm in their work, as in Charlotte Rudolph's 1920s-era photographs of dancers, or Brice Marden's layered lines. Only once a painting is digitally scanned does she turn her focus to how, as an abstract print, it might "sit on the body and embrace the body," she says. "I want you to feel painted in the pieces." While the brand, which she started in 2018, has found success in its swim and swim-adjacent offerings (with customers like Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa), the designer wants to expand her ready-to-wear categories and is working on a collection of accessories: an effort, she says, to imagine the Louisa Ballou woman not just on a tropical vacation but at lunch in Paris or dinner in New York. louisaballou.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

An Anniversary in the Cotswolds

Guests congregate for cocktails and aperitivo by a pond dyed black for dramatic effect.Philip James Greengrass Hewitt

It was a perfectly crafted bag that brought together Melissa Morris, the American founder of the London-based leather house Métier, and Silka Rittson-Thomas, an art adviser and creative consultant. About four and a half years ago, Rittson-Thomas purchased a Métier bag and, soon after, went to meet Morris in person at the brand's store in Mayfair. They've been friends ever since. So, when Morris mentioned to Rittson-Thomas that the brand's fifth anniversary was coming up, and that she wanted to throw some kind of summer celebration to mark it, Rittson-Thomas suggested she hold the event in the gardens of Walcot House, her home in the Cotswolds that she shares with her husband, the photographer Hugo Rittson-Thomas. They ended up throwing an intimate dinner in an orchard with a carpet of blooming poppies, and serving branzino al sale, a heritage tomato and basil salad and fava beans with ricotta, lovage and bright nasturtium flowers. Read Flo Wales Bonner's full account of the evening at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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2022年7月22日 星期五

The Daily: Biden’s Human Rights Dilemma

The complications of keeping campaign promises.

It was a fraught fist bump.

As you heard on Monday's episode, President Biden's chosen greeting for Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman of Saudi Arabia became a diplomatic drama.

After years of bombastic foreign policy tweets, analyzing the subtleties of Mr. Biden's behavior feels like a throwback to the tan-suit era — a time when diplomacy was in the details.

But this wasn't the only fist bump Mr. Biden gave on his tour of the Middle East. He also extended one to Prime Minister Yair Lapid while disembarking from Air Force One in Israel.

Below, Rachelle Bonja, the lead producer of the episode, looks more closely at Mr. Biden's Middle East tour and explains the significance of a few diplomatic decisions we didn't get the chance to discuss on the show.

The big idea: Biden's human rights dilemma

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on our episode with Ben Hubbard, The Times's Beirut bureau chief, about President Biden's foreign policy.

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President Biden, center, with the Israeli defense minister, Benny Gantz, left, and Prime Minister Yair Lapid on Wednesday.Doug Mills/The New York Times
Author Headshot

By Rachelle Bonja

Associate Producer, Audio

At the beginning of his campaign, President Biden set out a clear goal: to make human rights the center of American foreign policy. He promised to return to a previous era of international relations, before Donald J. Trump introduced an "America first" doctrine and withdrew from international agreements. However, Mr. Biden's visit to Israel and Saudi Arabia quickly became a test of one of his boldest campaign promises.

In both countries, Mr. Biden was under pressure to keep his commitment to speak out against human rights abuses, specifically by condemning the recent killings of journalists.

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As a candidate, Mr. Biden was explicit about how he felt the United States should deal with Saudi Arabia after the 2018 killing of​​ Jamal Khashoggi, a former Washington Post columnist. (American intelligence officials have determined that the crown prince approved the operation to assassinate Mr. Khashoggi.)

Mr. Biden said that his plan was to make the Saudis "pay the price, and make them in fact the pariah that they are."

But when the war in Ukraine drove American gas prices over $5 a gallon, Mr. Biden's approach to the crown prince, who manages the country's oil reserves, shifted focus.

Although Mr. Biden said Friday night that he had confronted the crown prince over the murder during their closed-door meeting, the Saudi government disputed the nature of the interaction. Now the president is being criticized for his apparent compromise on human rights.

But this wasn't the only human rights dilemma Mr. Biden faced on his trip.

Before he arrived in the Middle East, the president had not publicly addressed the killing of Shireen Abu Akleh. Ms. Abu Akleh was a Palestinian American journalist for Al Jazeera who was fatally shot in May while wearing a press vest and covering an Israeli raid in the West Bank for the network. Several investigations, including one by The New York Times, found that the bullets had come from the location of an Israeli Army unit.

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The United Nations' human rights office concluded that "the shots that killed Abu Akleh and injured her colleague Ali Sammoudi came from Israeli security forces and not from indiscriminate firing by armed Palestinians," Ravina Shamdasani, a spokeswoman for the agency, said.

Despite pressure from Ms. Abu Akleh's family and others to address the killing, Mr. Biden did not mention Ms. Abu Akleh's death while he was in Israel.

Instead, in Jerusalem, the president reaffirmed his commitment to Israel as an ally and as an "independent Jewish state." He called for a "lasting negotiated peace between the State of Israel and the Palestinian people."

Mr. Biden later visited Bethlehem in the Palestinian territories, where he spoke about Ms. Abu Akleh and called for accountability in her killing: "The United States will continue to insist on a full and transparent accounting of her death and will continue to stand up for media freedom everywhere in the world," he said.

Ms. Abu Akleh's family has called for a joint investigation of her killing. While Israel had previously offered to examine the bullet that killed Ms. Abu Akleh in the presence of Palestinian and American representatives, the Palestinian Authority has refused a joint investigation, citing distrust of the Israelis. Mr. Biden's decision to call for an investigation only while speaking in the Palestinian territories has stoked accusations that the president is trying to shield Israel from scrutiny.

The two visits highlight how Mr. Biden has compromised on his previously stated commitments — a contradiction pointed out in a tweet by Hatice Cengiz, Mr. Khashoggi's fiancée.

If he were alive, she said, Mr. Khashoggi might have tweeted at Mr. Biden, asking: "Is this the accountability you promised for my murder? The blood of MBS's next victim is on your hands."

From the Daily team: Your weekend playlist

In October 2020, a group outside the Saudi Consulate in Istanbul commemorated the second anniversary of the death of Jamal Khashoggi.Murad Sezer/Reuters

Here is some further listening on the Middle East and its leaders to add to your weekend playlist.

Nine Days in Gaza: Last summer, a two-week outbreak of violence occurred between Israelis and Palestinians. We spoke to a resident of Gaza City, Rahf Hallaq, about her life and what the conflict was like for her.

Biden's Saudi Dilemma: More than a year before last week's meeting with Prince Mohammed, Mr. Biden took the bold step of releasing an intelligence report that implicated the crown prince in the killing of Mr. Khashoggi.

The Disappearance of a Saudi Journalist: Saudi Arabia's crown prince has promoted himself to the West as a reformer determined to create a more free and open society. The killing of Mr. Khashoggi changed that. (From 2018.)

On The Daily this week

Monday: What did the meeting between President Biden and Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman tell us about relations between the countries they lead?

Tuesday: Has the era of global cooperation over planet-warming emissions ended?

Wednesday: How abortion bans are restricting miscarriage care.

Thursday: A prosecutor who worked on the Mueller inquiry discusses the possibility of criminal charges against former President Donald J. Trump.

Friday: As the Great Salt Lake dries up, Utah is facing an "environmental nuclear bomb."

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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