2022年1月19日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

An exhibition of work by Aaron Portiz, Parisian face oils — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

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The Tree's the Thing

New works by Aaron Poritz, created in 2021, including (clockwise from left) his "Sculptural" desk in ash and leather; "Arm" stool in white oak; "Inseparable" floor mirror in ash, leather and glass; "Untitled" coffee table in ash; "Comings and Goings" wine and liquor bar in ash, burl and leather; and "Youthful Mistakes" floor lamp in charred white oak. Nicole Franzen

By Rima Suqi

T Contributor

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For his show "Big Woods," opening at Cristina Grajales Gallery in New York on Jan. 27, the Brooklyn-based designer Aaron Portiz went back to the source. "I wanted to go for walks in the woods, find trees and envision pieces that fit within the shapes of them," he says. "The tree is the starting point. I find that romantic." The seven pieces he created for the show represent a stylistic departure for Portiz, who is best known for his masterfully crafted wooden furniture. "This was about exploring and being inspired by abstractions of the human form." Two years in the making, "Big Woods" is a curvaceous collection that includes a vanity, desk, bar, coffee table and floor lamp. Many of the pieces were made from hemlocks from his father's land in Massachusetts, others from a massive, 180-year-old fallen oak found in Connecticut. "Big Woods" is on view from Jan. 27 through May 26 at Cristina Grajales Gallery, cristinagrajales.com.

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A Vibrant Tablescape

Elysian tableware, $60-$100 for single pieces, elysianbyem.com.Courtesy of the brand

Founded in 2020 by Emily Morrison, after a formative trip to Turkey in 2019, the New Orleans-based fashion and lifestyle brand Elysian aims to combine centuries-old artisan techniques with a modern bohemian flare. While the line has mostly focused on textiles, offering everything from vibrantly patterned silk caftans to hand-woven pillow covers and blankets made and sourced from such far-flung places as Istanbul and Kashmir, their recently launched tabletop collection marks Elysian's first foray into ceramics. Coming in four soft shades of blush, sage, tangerine and cornflower, the dinner plates, dessert plates and bowls — sold either individually or as a set — are hand-painted in Kütahya, Turkey, by a female artisan from her in-home workshop. The design is a playful take on a traditional Turkish ikat with a blooming dahlia, a favorite flower of Morrison's, placed in the center. Paired with any of Elysian's cotton-silk napkins, which are made in Uzbekistan by a family of weavers and depict a Central Asian motif of ram's horns (believed to have protective powers), these dishes make for a sunny tablescape even in these dreary months. From $60, elysianbyem.com. Bespoke orders can be placed through Elysian's website, or at their brick and mortar location at 3701 Magazine Street, New Orleans, La., 70115.

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Fruits of an Egyptian Idyll

Left: the Egypt-inspired La Faune et La Flore panoramic wallpaper that Louis Barthélemy designed for Pierre Frey. Right: a linen fabric panel from the same collection, embroidered in India. Yann Deret

By Ellie Pithers

"If you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans." It's a saying the Marrakesh- and Paris-based French designer and illustrator Louis Barthélemy lives by — and one he believes is particularly apt for life in Egypt, a country he fell in love with several years ago, and in which he found himself marooned in the spring of 2020. This turned out to be a blessing. Holed up in Siwa, an ancient oasis west of Cairo, Barthélemy was gifted five uninterrupted months to dream up a capsule collection for the furniture and fabric designer Pierre Frey. "I was surrounded by nature: lakes, mountains, palm groves," the 33-year-old designer, who has worked for Dior and Gucci, recalls. "So I drew trees, fish, birds, animals. It was something optimistic and joyful at a time when everything felt a bit off." The resulting collection of panoramic and repeat wallpapers, embroidered linen textiles and made-to-order rugs that are crafted in Nepal translates ancient Egyptian frescoes for contemporary interiors in Barthélemy's whimsical style, and launches on January 20. pierrefrey.com.

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Font of Inspiration

Left: The Bembo Ring is crafted with gold-plated brass and a semi-precious stone by Florentine artisans. Right: The lightweight and functional Aldine Shopper is made of 100-percent Italian yarn-dyed silk. Courtesy of pisani et al

By Jeralyn Gerba

T Contributor

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That a punctuation mark can be a key design influence makes perfect sense in the universe of the Italian-made accessories line Pisani et al. "We were inspired by the literal text," says creative director Mariza Scotch of the late 15th-century humanist treatise "De Aetna" by Pietro Bembo, which was published as a typeset book that introduced a graceful new typeface (forerunner of today's Bembo font) as well as a curious oval-shaped period that serves as the basic form of the brand's chain bracelets and lacquered treasure boxes. Scotch, who, along with co-founder Daniela Pisani, spent decades developing relationships with suppliers and artisans to create accessories for 10 Corso Como, Devi Kroll, Mark Cross and Ferragamo, ultimately tired of "the categorizations that fuel the industry,­­" and decided instead to design Pisani et al's satchels, wallets and scarves from the angle of their own esoteric interests: Sicilian ceramics, Renaissance tarot cards, archival silk. "Fashion is fueled by temporality; something will be in and then out," she says. "What we are doing is the exact opposite of that." From $40, pisanietal.com.

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Skin Care Terroir

From Left: Olivier Midy Éclat Midy Face Oil, $146, oliviermidy.com. Amalthea Huile de Prune, about $15, amalthea.organic. Maison/Made Extrait de Maison, $165, maisonmade.co.Courtesy of the brands

Face oils are getting a Gallic spin from makers representing storied family businesses. Olivier Midy, the namesake brand of the great-grandson of François Midy, founder of Paris's oldest pharmacy in the 18th century, channels that ancestral knowledge in its Éclat Midy Face Oil, which improves elasticity and calms inflammation via a 24-ingredient blend that includes sea buckthorn, evening primrose and rooibos extract. The husband and wife team behind Maison/Made, Carolina Prioglio and Adrien de Bontin, began their skin-care journey after inheriting a family farm in Burgundy that dates to 1152 and provides most of the active ingredients in their Extrait de Maison Biodynamic Rejuvenating Face Oil, such as elderberry, raspberry and lemon balm extract. And the Parisian brand Amalthea's Huile de Prune is cold pressed in the south of France and high in vitamin E — perfect for dry skin in winter months just like these.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

New Italian Ceramics With a Vintage Feel

Costanza Paravicini (right) with her daughters Margherita (far left) and Benedetta Medici Di Marignano at Laboratorio Paravinci's atelier in Milan.Graziano Panfili

Milan's historic Cinque Vie neighborhood is home to a thriving network of galleries and artisan workshops — among them, on via Nerino, is the atelier of Laboratorio Paravicini. Run by Costanza Paravicini, who founded the hand-painted ceramics line in 1995, and two of her children, Benedetta and Margherita Medici di Marignano, the brand inhabits a series of former storerooms that have been converted to pottery-painting studios and showrooms and sit toward the back of the complex. Inside, the rooms are lush with wares: Laid on shelves and tables and hung on walls are rows of elaborately hand-decorated dishes that depict everything from blue larkspurs and dark pink carnations complete with hovering insects to chinoiserie-style forest scenes to grinning trapeze artists to hot air balloons that look as if they might float right off the plate's surface. There is also a wealth of more abstract motifs — with its blue and red florals set against a geometric background, the brand's Izmir collection references traditional Turkish pottery, while its Gymmetria one makes use of an Art Deco-style illustration that looks as if it's been fragmented by a kaleidoscope. If the plates feel romantically old-fashioned, so too does the manner by which they came to be. To read Laura May Todd's full story, visit tmagazine.com — and follow us on Instagram.

Correction: Last week's newsletter misidentified an Elliott Puckette sculpture that was assembled from 117 fragments; it is "Random Walk," not "Pivot." The newsletter also misspelled the surname of a surrealist artist; she was Leonor Fini, not Finney.

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2022年1月14日 星期五

The Daily: The Return of Superpower Conflict

What's different about this diplomatic drama with Russia.

Welcome to the weekend. This week, we explored the broader significance of two very different dramas in the news: the threat of Russian war and the Golden Globes. Below, we take a closer look at both.

Is there a question you'd like to see answered in a future episode of The Daily, or in this newsletter? Let us know here — our team always loves hearing from you.

The big idea: 'The return of superpower conflict'

The Daily strives to reveal a new idea in every episode. Below, we go deeper on one of those from our show this week.

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American and Russian flags on display at the United States Permanent Mission to the United Nations in Geneva on Monday during talks about soaring tensions over Ukraine.Pool photo by Denis Balibouses
Author Headshot

By Lauren Jackson

Associate Audience Editor, Audio

A whirlwind week of European diplomacy is drawing to close — and the close is looking like a draw.

"This is what we call a dead end," Sergei A. Ryabkov, Russia's deputy foreign minister, said after a series of meetings where American and European diplomats tried to deter a Russian invasion of Ukraine. Now, Russia's next move is anyone's guess — but it is likely to be violent.

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This moment, as you heard on Wednesday's show, marks the "return of superpower conflict." It's a real life war game that could help answer some big, open questions for world leaders: What happens when a regional power with growing ambitions moves opportunistically to expand its territorial control and influence? How will the United States respond? And how will the balance of power be affected?

Years of surging nationalism and isolationism have reshaped global politics, and now Russia is testing the waters. In response, a previously floundering NATO has banded together to thwart the threat of expanded Russian influence.

While the actors may make this story feel like a time warp to the 1980s, experts say this moment presents a new test — one that could reveal the strength of Russia's "sphere of influence" while also assessing America's superpower status.

'Expect the worst'

In meetings in Geneva, Brussels and Vienna, Russia demanded that NATO, an alliance founded to contain Soviet power, drastically scale back its presence near Russia's borders in Eastern Europe. The United States refused to concede, upholding the principle that nations cannot redraw international borders by force.

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"We have been very clear with Russia on the costs and consequences of further military action or destabilization," Jake Sullivan, President Biden's national security adviser, told reporters in Washington, adding that the United States was "ready" should Russia choose to escalate its aggression.

Moscow says it has no intention of invading, but 100,000 or so Russian troops are now massing on three sides of Ukraine. These contradictions may be part of President Vladimir V. Putin's tactical strategy: keeping those who oppose him from being able to fully anticipate his next move, according to The Times's Moscow bureau chief.

Though the world is waiting to see whether Russia will invade Ukraine, the prognosis looks dire. On Friday, unidentified hackers brought down several Ukrainian government websites. The provenance of the hacking has not been confirmed, but the incident is the latest in a long line of cyberattacks targeting Ukraine amid its conflict with Russia. The hackers posted a message on the site of the Foreign Ministry saying, "Be afraid and expect the worst."

Now, the Biden administration is accusing Moscow of sending saboteurs into eastern Ukraine to stage an incident that could provide Mr. Putin with a pretext for ordering an invasion of parts or all of Ukraine.

"They're going to invade," Barry Pavel, a director at the Atlantic Council, said, echoing a consensus among his colleagues.

A new currency of power

With this aggression, President Putin is hoping to reassert control over the states that once formed the Soviet Union. It is part of a broader campaign throughout the region to expand the Russian sphere of influence, a concept American diplomats have rejected.

But the buildup of troops and the threat of physical invasion are a distinctly 20th-century form of conquest in a world where the currency of power has grown increasingly digital, not just material. That's what makes this moment different from 30 years ago, some experts say.

"We need to think about spheres of influence as remits in which a state can exercise disproportionate influence that's not only territorial," said Graham Allison, a political scientist at Harvard, adding that now states could wield "military power, economic power and cyberpower."

Cyberattacks are a favored tactic of Mr. Putin in the Kremlin's efforts to influence elections and steal foreign data. But some say the American threat of counter-cyberattack, alongside its decades of soft-power influence in former Soviet states now agitating for regime change, will make it difficult for Russia to turn back the clock to a previous era of influence.

Referencing the recent protests in Kazakhstan, Sir Andrew Wood, the former British ambassador to Russia, said there was "a degree of liberal yearning" among younger generations in the former Soviet republics that Mr. Putin would find difficult to quell, even if he succeeded in a campaign of territorial expansion.

"It's a big mistake," he said of invasion. "Being a successful bully lasts for a time, perhaps, but it doesn't make you love somebody."

An American test

If Russia chooses to invade, the United States and its allies will face the challenge of how to respond: weighing the prospects of sanctions that could anger Russian citizens (who are accustomed to American products like iPhones), a counter-cyberattack or support for a Ukrainian insurgency.

The choice the Biden administration makes will have implications for America's reputation. "China will be watching carefully" to see which move the United States makes, Mr. Wood said, adding that Russian success in invasion without meaningful deterrence would "prove that the U.S. is not a formidable enemy."

It could also affect the likelihood of further territorial aggression from Russia and China. "It's the return of history, where great powers go at it and things get really bad sometimes," Mr. Pavel said. "Expect a very tumultuous decade."

3 great film performances to watch

Ruth Negga, left, as Clare and Tessa Thompson as Irene in "Passing."Netflix

On Monday, the pop culture reporter Kyle Buchanan took us through the rise and fall of the Golden Globes — and explained why one of Hollywood's glitziest (and most scandalous) awards shows was downgraded to a ceremony that was live-tweeted from a room in the Beverly Hilton.

At the Hilton, the winners that were announced overlooked "so many of the best performances," Kyle noted in his column The Projectionist. Kyle made a list of six acting performances that he thinks Oscar voters ought to consider, and we highlighted three of them below. If you're stuck at home trying to avoid the Omicron variant, consider watching one of these:

  • Jessie Buckley in "The Lost Daughter"
    In this dreamlike thriller, Olivia Colman plays a college professor who goes on a Greek island vacation and is prompted to confront memories from her past. Buckley, an Irish actress, plays an earlier version of Colman's character. She emerges as "the stealth M.V.P. of the movie," Kyle said. "Not only must she convince as Colman, she has to tease out this unhappy character's mysterious back story and sell several scenes that sound unsympathetic on paper."
  • Ruth Negga in "Passing"
    "Passing," based on the 1929 novel by Nella Larsen, follows two high school friends who reconnect by accident in 1920s New York. Both are light-skinned African Americans, but one of them, Negga's character, is "passing" as white. "A year after watching this movie, I continue to turn Negga's performance over to examine it from new angles," Kyle said. "That's what you call a gem, isn't it?"
  • Colman Domingo in "Zola"
    "Zola" isn't based on a book — it's based on a tweet thread that went viral in 2015. It follows two strippers who head to Florida on a road trip gone wrong. Domingo plays a pimp named X, who is "both frightening and a live-wire hoot, sometimes toggling between those extremes in the space of a line," Kyle said. Domingo has appeared in several award-winning films, like "The Butler" and "Selma," and now "it's high time the Oscars let themselves be charmed by Domingo himself," Kyle insists.

On The Daily this week

Tuesday: Here's what doctors are seeing on the front lines of the Omicron surge.

Wednesday: Russia and the United States are facing off over Ukraine. Can Moscow be deterred from carrying out an invasion?

Thursday: We hear from teachers, students and parents caught in the middle of the standoff between Chicago's mayor and teachers' union.

Friday: How Sidney Poitier transformed American cinema — and America itself.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

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