2022年3月2日 星期三

The T List: Five things we recommend this week

A starry-eyed sneaker collaboration, a monograph of nudes — and more.

Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

Adir Abergel's Beauty Regimen

Left: the hair stylist Adir Abergel. Right, clockwise from top left: Augustinus Bader the Rich Cream, $280, augustinusbader.com. Chantecaille Rose de Mai Face Oil, $188, chantecaille.com. Dr. Barbara Sturm Enzyme Cleanser, $75, drsturm.com. Natureofthings Restorative Floral Bath, $150, neimanmarcus.com. Chanel Sublimage La Crème, $420, chanel.com. Natureofthings Fortifying Magnesium Soak, $36,natureofthings.com. Nécessaire the Body Wash in Sandalwood, $25, sephora.com. Virtue Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, $48, virtuelabs.com.Left: Abby Ross. Right: courtesy of the brands
Author Headshot

Interview by Caitie Kelly

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I use an SPF that Rooney Mara told me about years ago called Eryfotona Actinica. I traveled to Brazil in the summer and used it the whole time, so I know it works. In the morning, I wash my face with either Dr. Barbara Sturm's Enzyme Cleanser or MBR's Enzyme Cleansing Booster, which I follow with Chantecaille's Rose de Mai Face Oil and Augustinus Bader's the Rich Cream. When I travel or need something heavier, I use Chanel's Sublimage La Crème and Lucas' Papaw Ointment a ton: on my lips, even sometimes on my dog! It's my go-to salve. I'll use a tiny bit of Clé de Peau Concealer in Almond on my eyes with a beauty blender, along with Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Petal. It's so light. At the end of the day, I love taking a bath. It is my favorite ritual. I fill up the first third of the tub with boiling hot water, add in some Ancient Minerals Magnesium Bath Flakes, then warm water until the bath is full. A friend of mine started this company Natureofthings; I use its Fortifying Magnesium Soak and its Restorative Floral Bath. Last, I put in three drops of Women's Balance aromatherapy oil from Neal's Yard Remedies. It is a blend of geranium, rose and frankincense that I use on clients before events, too. My body products are from Nécessaire; I love their sandalwood scent. A lot of what I use on my hair I helped create with Virtue — products that I wanted after having tried a million different things in my work. I use the Virtue Purifying Shampoo because I have very fine hair, and the Restorative Treatment Mask. I'll let it sit while I'm in the bath. To finish, I always use a combination of Virtue Un-Frizz Cream and Healing Oil. Ninety-nine percent of the time, though, I have a hat on top of that.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

WEAR THIS

Extra-Sporty Fashion Sneakers

A look from the Loewe x On collaboration.Courtesy of Loewe

By Megan O'Sullivan

T Contributor

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Performance wear may seem like a departure for Loewe. After all, the Spanish house has specialized in leather goods for over 175 years now, and yet its latest collaboration — with the cult Swiss running brand On — was the Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson's idea. "I felt there was a precision in what they do that connects to the Loewe Puzzle bag," he says, referring to the iconic trapezoidal purse. "This idea of aerodynamics." (It probably didn't hurt that Anderson has been wearing On shoes, which are beloved for their patented cushioning system and lightweight feel, for years.) Launching next week, the collection consists of two sneaker styles, versions of On's Cloudrock and Cloudventure trail-running shoes, that are made with recycled materials and come in five colorways each — as well as clothes, from temperature-regulating T-shirts to a customizable three-layer parka. In addition to being adaptable and high-tech, of course, the pieces are also nice to look at. Some of the shoes and a unisex moisture-wicking anorak all feature a celestial print of light blue constellations set against a navy background that mimics sashiko — the traditional Japanese needlework style characterized by geometric patterns — and just might inspire night runs. From $275, loewe.com.

LOOK AT THIS

A Re-Examination of the Nude

From left: Joseph Maida's "Nude" (2015) and "Nude" (2017).Courtesy of the artist and Convoke

By Adriane Quinlan

T Contributor

It was in a Borders in Philadelphia in the mid-1990s that the New York-based photographer Joseph Maida first came across a monograph filled with female nudes shot by Lee Friedlander, a catalog of the artist's 1991 exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art. Friedlander had made art's oldest subject somehow alien — witnessed up close, expanses of skin became strange landscapes interrupted by the mundane mise-en-scènes of domestic spaces: lamps, coffee cups and mismatched bedspreads. Decades after he discovered them, "Friedlander's nudes continued to haunt me, thrill me, challenge me and disturb me," Maida writes in the introduction to "A Third Look," a new monograph of his own work. In its style and title, a reference to Friedlander's 2013 book "A Second Look," it's a paean to its source of inspiration — Maida even used a 35 mm camera with a wide-angle lens, as Friedlander did. But Maida deployed that tool to examine the male form, and to play with perceptions of gender. In one image, a manicured hand grips a hairy leg; in another, a penis disappears between thighs. As the artist and Maida's former student Zackary Drucker writes in the foreword, the viewer may have the "uncanny experience of double-taking, thinking, 'Is that a woman?' Clearly they are not … or are they?" Our urge to assign labels is as much the subject of these complex images as the nudes themselves. $65, convoke.nyc.

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BUY THIS

Blankets Handwoven From Fabric Scraps

Two one-of-a-kind double-sided Zero Waste Patchwork Quilts by Marrakshi Life. Left: in lavender, brick, merlot and blush. Right: in navy, royal blue, light blue, marine blue and ice.David Bechtel

By Sophie Bew

T Contributor

Above the Marrakesh atelier of the fashion line Marrakshi Life is a space that serves as both an archive of past collections and a storage area for off-cuts of fabric. "There are rows and shelves filled with the most wonderful colors, sorted by scheme," muses the brand's founder, the New York-born photographer Randall Bachner. "It's great if you ever need to walk into a world of color and begin dreaming." But the scraps provide more than inspiration: A principle of zero waste has guided the brand, which is known for hand-woven caftans and tunics that marry the look of the region's ubiquitous djellaba (a full-sleeved, often striped robe) with that of crisp men's wear-style shirting, since its inception in 2013. Now, Bachner has used the scraps to dip a toe into home items with a capsule collection of one-of-a-kind quilts and blankets. Like his fashion pieces, they mimic the sun-drenched hues of Marrakesh's medina — turmeric, terra-cotta and sandy beige — and incorporate a mix of blues. On one side of each blanket is a uniquely graphic composition, with chevrons and triangles of stripes in eye-catching collision; on the other, twill stripes were left uninterrupted in order, Bachner explains, to "reveal their full glory." From $1,200, marrakshilife.com.

SMELL THIS

A New Fragrance from Carine Roitfeld

Left: Carine Roitfeld. Right: Carine Eau de Parfum.Left: Hedi Slimane. Right: courtesy of the brand

With her first line of fragrances, which came out in 2019, the renowned editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld told a tale of seven imaginary lovers and the cities in which they lived. For her new release, created in collaboration with the master perfumer Dominique Ropion, she ruminated on another romantic persona: her own. "The perfume is about my fictional character, but also different parts of myself: my teenage self, the career woman, me as a mother and the current version, which is wiser and more fulfilled," Roitfeld explains. Carine, as the scent is called, is heady and opulent, with notes of woody vetiver and cashmeran (a complex synthetic ingredient so named for its ability to impart something of the softness of cashmere) contrasted with those of sharp white florals and patchouli, which Roitfeld has loved since her youth. "Patchouli has this forbidden scent to it," she says. "It's a bit free-spirited, like me." Formulating such a personal concoction with Ropion required vulnerability — Roitfeld compares it to walking around naked — but she hopes wearers will make the end result their own, and feel even more like the main characters of their own stories once they've dabbed it on. $260, carineroitfeld.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

In Naples, a 19th-Century Palace Fit for a Duchess

The great room of Margherita Marzotto's family villa in Naples, Italy, features a grand piano made for the king of Naples and a copy of "L'Aurora," Guido Reni's 1614 fresco of the Sun Chariot guided by the Hours and Apollo.Allegra Martin

Villa Lucia was a gift from Ferdinand I, the king of the Two Sicilies, to his new wife, Lucia Migliaccio, the Duchess of Floridia, in 1817. "Their relationship was quite a scandal at the time, partly because they married only two months after the king's first wife died," says the artist and jewelry designer Margherita Marzotto. "And the villa was their love pavilion." After passing among several subsequent owners, the estate has been in Marzotto's family for almost a century and has cast a spell over her for as long as she can remember — not least since 2016, when she and her husband, Barthélémy d'Ollone, a French musician and gem hunter, began living in the house for part of each year. ​​Its great room, pictured here, features a grand piano and a copy of "L'Aurora," Guido Reni's 1614 fresco of the Sun Chariot guided by the Hours and Apollo. Read the full story at tmagazine.com, and follow us on Instagram.

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2022年2月25日 星期五

The Daily: A ‘New Iron Curtain’

Bombs are falling in Europe. And the future is uncertain.

The big idea: This is just the beginning

There is one major story this week: the war in Ukraine. While we're still in the middle of the news, and it's uncertain what developments will follow, we wanted to answer some of your questions about the Russian invasion.

Author Headshot

By Lauren Jackson

Associate Audience Editor, Audio

A residential building was hit by missiles in Kyiv as the battle continues for the Ukrainian capital city.Lynsey Addario for The New York Times

Bombs are falling in Europe. A major world power is at war. And no easy resolution is in sight.

In the hours since President Vladimir V. Putin invaded Ukraine, Russian troops have entered the country by land, air and sea, attacking cities and taking control of the Chernobyl nuclear reactor.

Train stations and highways are crowded with those trying to flee; desperate lines persist at empty ATMs and gas stations; and many citizens are now soldiers, conscripting and preparing Molotov cocktails to defend family homes in the battle for Kyiv.

This moment is not only about the future of Ukrainian sovereignty and statehood, but also about a confrontation of ideologies and superpowers — one which has set off a chain reaction we can barely see the beginning of now.

As you've heard in our audio dispatches, we're right in the middle of the news, trying to keep pace with developments world leaders are calling "unthinkable," "barbaric" and a "turning point in the history of Europe." So while we wait to see what happens next, we wanted to try to answer a few of the questions you've sent us.

What are Putin's real motives?

Putin has spun conspiracy theories to justify his invasion of Ukraine.

But through his public statements, he has made clear that his true target goes beyond regaining control of his neighboring country. He is interested in challenging America's superpower status, which he described as an "empire of lies." Julia Ioffe, writing for Puck, explains that this war is really about settling old scores and rewriting the terms of surrender that ended the Cold War — albeit 30 years later. And as part of that calculation, Putin appears to have threatened nuclear war.

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In another rambling speech full of festering historical grievances and accusations of a relentless Western plot against his country, Mr. Putin reminded the world on Thursday that Russia "remains one of the most powerful nuclear states" with "a certain advantage in several cutting-edge weapons."

He warned of "consequences you have never faced in your history" for "anyone who tries to interfere with us."

Mr. Putin's move into Ukraine and his thinly veiled nuclear threat have now shattered Europe's notions of security and the presumption of peace that it has lived with for several generations. The postwar European project, which produced so much stability and prosperity, has entered a new, uncertain and confrontational stage.

Do sanctions actually work?

Western leaders across Europe and the United States have collaborated to impose sanctions on Russia in response to the invasion, measures they have described as "strong" and "severe." Our colleagues at The Morning newsletter have spent the last two days breaking down the import of these sanctions — and their likely effect.

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According to David Leonhardt, the sanctions will damage the Russian economy. For example, after the U.S. and Britain announced new measures yesterday — making it harder for Russian companies to raise money or import goods — an index of Moscow's stock market fell by more than 30 percent.

But these sanctions fall well short of what the U.S. and Europe could impose. In the short term, those sanctions are unlikely to stop Putin from menacing Ukraine. "Russia right now is sitting on quite a pile of extra cash," Melissa Eddy, a Times correspondent in Berlin, said. "They have a war chest."

But there are two big uncertainties: whether the sanctions will hurt Russia's economy once that war chest is drawn down; and whether the U.S. and Europe will impose tougher sanctions if Putin continues his war.

What could this mean in the long term?

It's impossible to say what the outcome of this war will be, and what effects will ripple out from this moment we're in. But we wanted to share some smart coverage with you that we think are asking smart questions.

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  • As we wrote in the newsletter a few weeks ago, this moment could answer some big, open questions for world leaders: What happens when a regional power with growing ambitions moves opportunistically to expand its territorial control and influence? How will the United States respond? And how will the balance of power be affected? China — and Taiwan — will be watching closely.
  • Russia's invasion of Ukraine caused a surge in energy prices on Thursday, adding to worries over tight supplies and raising fresh questions about the flows of oil and gas from Russia into Europe in the months ahead. While Western leaders search for alternatives to Russian fuel, climate activists like Bill McKibben say an expedited shift to renewables is the solution.
  • While Europe and the United States have shown themselves to be unwilling to send troops to Ukraine, some argue there are many ways Western states could be pulled into this conflict. Some experts are worried about a destabilized Poland, a refugee crisis in Europe and the prospect of a massive cyberwar.

LISTEN TO OUR COVERAGE OF THE INVASION FROM OUR CORRESPONDENTS ON THE GROUND:

Article Image

Sergey Bobok/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Ukrainians' Choice: Fight or Flee?

An exploration of the significance of Russia's invasion and the decisions Ukrainians must now make.

By Michael Barbaro, Rob Szypko, Rachelle Bonja, Lynsea Garrison, Rachel Quester, Kaitlin Roberts, Clare Toeniskoetter, Lisa Tobin, Lisa Chow, Marion Lozano, Dan Powell and Corey Schreppel

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Brendan Hoffman for The New York Times

The Russian Invasion Begins

In the hours before the assault and during the attack itself, we heard from our correspondents in the Ukrainian cities of Kyiv and Slovyansk, and in Moscow.

By Lynsea Garrison, Clare Toeniskoetter, Asthaa Chaturvedi, Sydney Harper, Lisa Chow, Larissa Anderson, Marion Lozano, Dan Powell and Chris Wood

Article Image

Sergei Ilnitsky/EPA, via Shutterstock

'A Knife to the Throat': Putin's Logic for Invading Ukraine

An address by the Russian president on Monday revealed some of the thinking behind the aggression and hinted at his wider intentions.

By Michael Barbaro, Austin Mitchell, Michael Simon Johnson, Mooj Zadie, M.J. Davis Lin, Patricia Willens, Marion Lozano, Elisheba Ittoop and Chris Wood

From The Daily Team: the story behind Thursday's episode

People take shelter in a parking garage in Kyiv on Friday.Brendan Hoffman for The New York Times

Daylight was dwindling on the East Coast, the evening was fast approaching, and in Ukraine, Sabrina Tavernise was plotting where to hide in her hotel room should Russia invade.

About an hour earlier, we had heard the news that a Russian attack on Ukraine was imminent. But the news was speculative; while we waited to hear more, our team, and our show, was in limbo.

The team pulled together a group of producers and editors in London, New York and Washington, D.C., and contacted reporters in Russia and Ukraine. We wanted to "tell the story of the night through the eyes and ears of Times reporters on the ground," the producer Asthaa Chaturvedi said. Throughout the night, reporters like Sabrina fed audio dispatches as the story developed.

This approach was informed by our recent coverage of Afghanistan, the producer Lynsea Garrison said. Quick voice memos from people on the ground have the ability to "unfurl fast-moving events in a simple but compelling way," Lynsea said. "It's way more powerful to have someone talk to you in the moment they're in, rather than recap it to you later."

As the night went on, "the episode was coming together in real time as the news unfolded," the producer Clare Toenisketter explained. Lynsea, along with the producer Sydney Harper, started building the scaffolding of the episode. They listened to clips from the impassioned video address that Zelensky gave on live television in Russian, and they recorded Sabrina's translations in English.

As our correspondents were sending in voice memos responding to the news from the night, Asthaa would edit and weave them into the episode. We heard from Anton Troianovski, the Moscow bureau chief, as he was "still processing" Putin's televised declaration of war against Ukraine, shortly after 6 a.m. local time. And we heard the startled voice of Michael Schwirtz, reporting from Slovyansk, as he awoke to "two very large booms" coming from a neighboring city. "Sabrina, Anton and Michael were able to provide three different angles on the initial phase of the invasion," Asthaa said.

Sydney Harper, along with the episode's editors, Lisa Chow and Larissa Anderson, didn't go to sleep until 4:30 a.m. — the episode came out just an hour and a half later.

On The Daily this week

Tuesday: Tracing the recent deterioration of ties between Russia and Ukraine.

Thursday: A collection of audio memos in the hours leading up to the Russian assault on Ukraine.

Friday: We explore the significance of Russia's invasion, and the decisions Ukrainians must now make.

That's it for the Daily newsletter. See you next week.

Have thoughts about the show? Tell us what you think at thedaily@nytimes.com.

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